Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2067 Combines Rose Gold and (For The First Time) Blue Ceramic

Breguet retooled its historically inspired luxury pilot’s watch. The Type XX, back in June 2023. bringing the timepiece closer to its origins in the 1950s, when it was developed in response to an order from the French Air Force. The most recent version of the model featured the classic combo of stainless steel case and black dial that still defines many military-look aviation watches. For that watch’s follow-up, unveiled today, Breguet embraces the more luxurious side of its long and prestigious watchmaking history, outfitting it with a case of 18k rose gold, a sunburst blue dial, and, most notably, a blue ceramic inlay for the bidirectional bezel.

The Type XX 2067 Chronograph 2067 represents the very first use of ceramic in a Breguet watch case, but not the first use of gold in the utilitarian-origin Type XX collection. In fact, just a few years after Breguet issued the first production models to French Air Force pilots, it created a trip of gold models, including the very rare No. 1780, which currently resides in the Breguet Museum. In the 1970s, another generation of these civilian-targeted Type XX models added bezels with graduated scales (including tachymeters and GMT indications) in colorways that contrasted with the case. Both these vintage pieces exert a stylistic influence on the new Ref. 2067, whose rose-gold case measures 42mm in diameter and 14.1mm thick. The bidirectional rotating bezel, made of the same precious metal, frames the aforementioned blue ceramic ring, inscribed with a 12-hour graduated scale and an inverted triangle at 12 o’clock, a hallmark of historical pilot’s watches.

Breguet describes the dial’s sunburst blue tone as “reminiscent of the sky after sunset,” and like its predecessors, its distinctive layout of applied Arabic numerals, syringe-style hands, and different-sized subdials has been designed with legibility in mind. The 15-minute chrono counter is at 3 o’clock, the 12-hour counter at 6 o’clock, and the running seconds display at 9 o’clock. The numerals and hands are made of gold and coated with white luminous paint; the subdials feature a snailed texture offering a subtle contrast with the sunburst finish of the main dial. The date appears in a window between 4 and 5 o’clock. The edge of the bezel is fluted for easy gripping, and the three-position pull-out crown is flanked by two pump-style pushers.

The manufacture movement inside the watch is the same automatic Caliber 728 that made its debut in the 2023 steel-cased versions of the Type XX 2067. The product of four years of R&D, it is equipped with a flyback function for the integrated chronograph, which enables the user to start and stop it hand with the pusher at 2 o’clock or to instantly reset the chronograph hand while it is running with a press of the pusher at 4 o’clock. The movement achieves a 60-hour power reserve with a flat silicon hairsrpring in a single barrel. The chronograph function uses a vertical clutch to ensure smoothness and precision at activation, and incorporates a column wheel with a blackened treatment on its surface. The balance wheel is held in place via a cross-through bridge for increased stability. The oscillating weight is made of blackened gold and shaped like an aircraft wing, with an engraved Breguet logo. These details, along with an array of high-horology finishes on the other components, like sunburst, snailing, and circular graining, are visible behind the watch’s sapphire caseback.

Two straps are included with the Breguet Type XX Chronograph 2067, both executed in a midnight blue color that harmonizes with the dial. One is made of alligator leather, with white contrast stitching, the other a NATO-style pass-through fabric strap; both are fitted with a gold pin buckle and can be swapped out easily and without tools thanks to Breguet’s interchangeable strap system that uses hidden pushers beneath the case lugs. The watch is packaged in a Havana-colored leather box reminiscent of the silhouette of an aircraft wing and retails for $37,900.