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An everyday blue dial stunner that's as accurate as almost anything you'll find.
Today we’re looking at one of the best ways to get into Grand Seiko if you’re just discovering the brand for the first time. Or maybe you’re just looking for your “one nice watch” and want something that can do it all. One that can go straight from the office to kicking back on the weekend, perhaps even dressing up for special occasions. A GADA watch, if you will. So if you’re just now starting to go down the rabbit hole of luxury watches, you’ve probably become somewhat familiar with Grand Seiko. The brand came into existence in 1960 as a high-end offshoot of Seiko, a shot across the bow of the Swiss watch industry, and a statement that its quality could match anything in the watchmaking world.
One thing you’ll notice as you start to look deeper into Grand Seiko is the astonishing level of craftsmanship that touches every part of every watch they make. Just like Rolex and Seiko itself, Grand Seiko is one of the most vertically integrated watch brands in the world – in other words, it manufactures nearly everything that goes into its watches. From finely polished stainless steel, precious metals, and high-intensity titanium cases to its innovative and beautifully finished movements and breathtaking dials that draw inspiration from nature, Grand Seiko does it all, going to some extraordinary lengths, including growing its own proprietary quartz crystals, and manufacturing the lubricants that go into each movement.
If you take a look at Teddy’s video of his visit to the Grand Seiko manufacture in Japan, you’ll see the extraordinary discipline and dedication of the craftsmen and women who make these amazing timepieces by hand. This level of craft and pride in workmanship goes into every Grand Seiko watch, from its entry-level models to the highest of high horology. This means that collectors can gain entry into the brand for a frankly unbelievable price, starting at just over $2,000. And just above that point of entry is where you’ll find the Grand Seiko SBGP013, a 40mm do-it-all watch that features an elegant blue dial, along with one of the most advanced movements in the Grand Seiko lineup, the Caliber 9F85 high precision quartz. More on why this movement is so special (along with some context to sway the quartz-averse folks) in a moment, but to begin, let’s take a look at the case.
Grand Seiko is rightly known for its casework, which features some of the most delicate polishing you’ll ever see. We’ve all seen high-polished cases before, but Grand Seiko’s Zaratsu polishing is next-level, and completely done by hand. The bezel and case bevels pop like few others, and its refinement is staggering, especially hovering reasonably under the $3,000 mark. That’s the amazing thing about Grand Seiko: every watch it makes exhibits the same ultra-high level of workmanship, all the way down to its entry-level models. The polishing contrasts beautifully with the superfine hairline brushing on the rest of the case’s surfaces, creating a look that’s eye-catching yet refined. Measuring 40mm in diameter, the SBGP013 strikes as an incredibly versatile piece with its sleek profile of 10.6mm and reasonably compact lug-to-lug of 47mm, making it wear comfortably on a variety of wrist sizes – even those with wrists on the smaller side.
While the SBGP013 comes standard on a matching stainless bracelet, the lugs are drilled, making strap changes a breeze, doubly so given its 20mm lug width. Those drilled lugs are among the thoughtful little details that make this Grand Seiko such a delight to wear. The closed caseback is screwed in and features a relief-embossed rendering of the Grand Seiko lion. The 100 meters of water resistance, which is more than enough for just about any activity short of serious SCUBA diving, makes the SBGP013 a great choice for almost any situation you might find yourself in. The watch is also antimagnetic to the ISO 764 standard, offering yet another layer of protection.
Moving onto the dial, here it’s rendered in a vibrant yet tasteful blue color, suitable for pairing with a wide range of looks, from casual to more formal. Another detail I need to mention is the impeccable sharpness of the applied dial indices and dauphine hands. If you ever get the chance to look at a Grand Seiko dial under magnification, you’ll see a level of fit and finish that puts a lot of brands to shame. The hands and indices are diamond-cut, boasting some incredible texture and razor-sharp edges, and that attention to detail pays dividends in the way that they sparkle, jumping off the dial like few others. It’s astounding to me that Grand Seiko’s level of craftsmanship carries through its entire catalog, even at the entry level. The silver color of the hands and applied indices offer good contrast against the rich blue hues of the dial, as does the framed date window at three and white printed minute track. Finally, the Grand Seiko logo is also applied, sitting just under 12 with the silver wordmark below.
Now, some might look down on quartz movements as less worthy of serious collectors, but that’s just plain wrong. It’s worth remembering that Seiko was the first to market with a quartz watch movement, all the way back in 1969 with the iconic Astron. It’s the watch that launched the quartz revolution, forever changing the industry. They’ve been refining quartz technology ever since, and it’s especially true at Grand Seiko. The SBGP013 utilizes the in-house Caliber 9F85, an exceptionally well-built, highly accurate quartz movement. The brand says it “might well be the most advanced quartz movement in the world”, and they’re not kidding. Where most quartz movements are fully machine-made, everything is made by hand in a Grand Seiko movement. In addition to growing its own quartz crystals, the movements have nine jewels, they’re fully adjustable and are decorated to similar standards as the mechanical and Spring Drive calibers in Grand Seiko’s lineup.
Other innovations contained within the movement include the Instant Date Change Mechanism, increased torque from the Twin-Pulse Motor Control (for driving larger handsets), a Backlash Auto-Adjust Mechanism, which prevents the second hand from stuttering as it moves, thermal compensation to maintain accuracy as the ambient temperature rises or falls, and a sealed mechanism to prevent dust from entering the movement during battery changes. All this adds up to a quartz movement that can boast an accuracy of plus or minus 10 seconds a year. Not a month, a year. No mechanical movement can match that, and if all that doesn’t impress a quartz snob, nothing will. Grand Seiko is hugely proud of its movement technology, and the 9F85 Calibers definitely belong in the conversation among its finest.
The standard bracelet included with the SBGP013 is a stylish three-link affair with screwed links, a nice mix of hairline brushed and polished finishing, and a lug width of 20mm. A “GS” branded tri-fold clasp adds an elegant touch and features well-executed machining. It looks great as is, but if you decide to switch things up, as I mentioned earlier, the lugs are drilled, which makes swapping out the bracelet for a different strap easy and painless. The blue dial goes perfectly with just about any shade of leather but would look particularly handsome when paired with cooler hues, but if you want a more formal look for the evening, always bet on black. But in all honesty, the SBGP013 is up for just about any color you choose.
So there you have it. The SBGP013 is an immaculately crafted timepiece in a great versatile size and a completely worthy bearer of the Grand Seiko name. It can go almost anywhere and do just about anything, and do it with ease. Retailing at $2,600, it’s, quite frankly, a downright bargain when you consider the amount of handcrafting that goes into every Grand Seiko. Grand Seiko is one of those brands that you really need to see up close and get your hands on to fully appreciate. It’s a fantastic point of entry into one of the most well-loved names in watchmaking among true enthusiasts, and I’m hard-pressed to think of another brand that offers so much for the price of admission.
Case Material: Stainless steel
Diameter: 40mm
Thickness: 10.6mm
Lug-to-Lug: 47mm
Lug Width: 20mm
Water Resistance: 100m
Movement: 9F85 quartz
Crystal: Sapphire
Price: US$2,600
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