7 Affordable Rolex Watches: From Dress To Diver

Rolex watches have a reputation for longevity, both in terms of their mechanical reliability, and for their uncanny ability to hold value. On average, this has been true for generations, and remains particularly prescient today in a world of hype driven scarcity. Whether justified or not, there’s no denying the strength of the foundation underpinning this status. In many ways, that reputation for longevity, particularly when it comes to build quality and mechanical fidelity, has been well earned through years of hard use and methodical evolution, much of which is never even publicized.

It’s clear that a Rolex is a great store of value as a result of this, and while it’s easy to look to their more expensive references and auction results for examples of this, there exist plenty of opportunities for ownership in the more accessible reaches of the brand’s catalog both present and past. That’s all relative, of course, but when it comes to Rolex, there are some good buys to be had. And no, this doesn't limit you to every variation of the Datejust released in the late ‘80s. 

As a matter of fact, there is a surprisingly diverse range of Rolex references that can be had for under the $10,000 mark, and in some cases, well under. That includes some of the classic sport watches that helped to put the brand on the map. These may not be the flashiest options from the Crown, but they reveal the soul of what's made the brand so compelling to the travelers, the adventurers, the curious, and the astute. In other words, they represent the character of the brand. 

[toc-section heading="Air King 5500 And 14000"]

Image by Eric Wind

The Air-King is a charming entry level collection that dates back to the mid 1940s. This is a watch that has taken many forms over the generations (as you can see in the current ref. 126900), but has largely been categorized as a pilot’s watch (as the name suggests). The simple, dateless form is actually quite versatile in nature, and that is on full display with the references 5500 and 14000.

The 34mm steel case is svelte and unassuming, with no bezels or complications serving as distractions. Rather, the Air-King takes a more reductive approach to focusing on only the necessary details. Today, these older references are perfect for daily wear, and can even hold their own in formal situations. The best part is that nice examples of these can be had for under $5,000. Don't be scared off by the 34mm sizing either as the Oyster bracelet and Oyster case together make the watch feel more akin to a traditional 36mm watch which is absolutely still a contemporary size.

[toc-section heading="Explorer II 16570"]

The Explorer II may have begun life as a (very) niche tool watch meant for spelunkers, but it has since evolved into one of the all-time great tool/travel watches thanks to the intuitive design, wonderful case proportions, and rugged build quality with no moving bezel parts.

The reference 16570 was prolific, enjoying a 20+ year production run(1989 - 2011) that saw a number of small and large improvements, from the bracelet and end links to the movement itself going from the 3185 to the caliber 3186 (a classic Rolex update that took an already sterling travel GMT to greater chronometric heights).

What's especially great about the 16570 is that it is the successor to the original Explorer II ref. 1655 which has become a collector darling. Some know it as the "Steve McQueen" Rolex. But that watch had a far shorter production run than its successor which has made the 1655 one of the better value pickups in the pre-owned (neo-vintage) Rolex stable – due in part to the niche nature of the watch's use case. The black dial version is more of a spiritual successor to the 1655 while the white dial (nicknamed "Polar") is by far the fan-favorite and prices reflect that.

Given the long production run, many examples made it into the market, and good ones with crisp cases are readily available from the usual suspects. Pricing has remained surprisingly consistent from $6,000 to $9,000 depending on kit and condition. It may be from another era, but it’s a symbol of Rolex as a tool watch manufacture at their very best.

[toc-section heading="Sea-Dweller Ref. 16600"]

Moving into more purpose built territory, the Sea-Dweller is often seen as a more intimidating variation of the Submariner thanks to the beefed up depth rating with a case to match, not to mention the inclusion of a helium escape valve.

The reference 16600 represents an approachable sweet spot, however. It feels slightly more interesting than a Submariner of the same vintage, and if you like the idea of a date but hate the cyclops (the magnification window typically found on a Rolex watch, this one is for you.

This reference is 40mm in diameter, and only slightly thicker than a Sub, but it nestles into the small of your wrist just right. This is a real diamond in the rough kind of Rolex, and carries an incredibly impressive personality in use. It’s the ultimate t-shirt and jeans kind of wear, and nice examples can be found well under $10,000. 

[toc-section heading="Oyster Perpetual Ref. 1005"]

The Oyster Perpetual is perhaps the simplest expression of the Rolex design ethos that’s not encapsulated in a sport watch (More on the Oyster Perpetual later in this article). The reference 1005 was in production for nearly 20 years from the 1960s to the 1980s, and it features a stunning array of variance that means there is no shortage of individual options to get the look you want.

From dial colors and case materials, to the shape of the hour markers, this is a reference that’s nearly done it all. There’s no date here, either, so it’s an overall more clean aesthetic that’s focused on that classic Rolex formal look. It’s worth noting that this reference also uses a 34mm case, so individual tastes will vary. On bracelet it will still wear more like a 36 so it might be a good one to try on first. The best part is that these can be had for well under $4,000, and will look pretty good on any manner of strap you dare affix to it. 

[toc-section heading="Explorer 124270"]

The modern Explorer reference 124270 surprised everyone when it was released in 2021 by reverting back to its traditional 36mm steel frame. It has since been joined by a 40mm option, but if you ask me, the 36mm 124270 is a near perfect daily wear option.

This watch is a distillation of a Rolex sport watch, with a pinch of unusual personality weaved in. The Arabic numerals at the hour positions are unique to this reference, and bring a bigger visual personality than you’d expect from the otherwise diminutive frame. This style of marker originated when the watch was revamped in 1989 as the ref. 14270 – taking the mantle from the previous generation (and collector classic) ref. 1016 Explorer. The applied markers and gloss black dial bring a more fanciful look and feel to the watch associated with alpine exploration.

[toc-section heading="Oyster Perpetual (current production)"]

The modern Oyster Perpetual has become one of the most expressive palette’s within the Rolex stable. From bright, colorful dials, and a variety of sizes on offer, there’s a lot to love about the OP in its current state. With these dials, the larger reference 134300 offers a nice platform for maximum impact. The new pistachio dial is exceptional in person, but the standard blue, green, and black options work just as well. Whatever your choice, the MSRP of this reference is $6,650. Of course, the smaller 36 and 34mm options are also excellent choices depending on size preference (and wrist size), plus you'll save a few hundred dollars. 

These are just some of the better Rolex values out there but, as always, it's important to always do your due diligence and homework. Pricing trends may be moving in one direction, but there are always interesting options that represent a point in time, and serve as a celebration of Rolex history. Finding the era or reference that speaks to you doesn’t always have to come with sticker shock, sometimes you just have to dig a little deeper. You might be surprised at what you find. To learn more about the brand go to rolex.com