36 Green Dial Watches, From Entry-Level to Luxury
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36 Green Dial Watches, From Entry-Level to Luxury

For many watch brands, green dials have become less of a niche novelty and more of an essential option, often even a go-to variation for their most popular models. After several years of steadily trending in the enthusiast community, green-dial watches can currently be found in collections that range from sporty to military to dressy, in a verdant rainbow of color tones, from mint green to forest green to dark olive green and various shades in between. Here's a selection of 24 green-dial watches that have caught our eye lately, in ascending order of price, many of which can be purchased right here on TeddyBaldassarre.com.

Tissot PRX Quartz Mint

Tissot PRX Quartz Mint Green

Price: $375, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 10.5mm, Lug to Lug: 44.6mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100m, Movement: Quartz ETA F06.115 

Like the self-winding Powermatic 80 version spotlighted below, this quartz-driven model in Tissot’s PRX series features the tapering tonneau-style case and integrated metal bracelet that distinguished its predecessor from the 1970s. The pastel mint-green dial color is a recent debut in the collection, and has already made quite the splash with collectors who appreciate its eye-catching, playful aesthetic combined with its very accessible price point — the latter a product of the watch’s quartz movement, the Swiss-made ETA F016.115, which powers the simple three-handed time display and date indication at 3 o’clock. Tissot eventually offering this vibrant colorway in an automatic model, and possibly in different sizes, certainly seems an inevitability.

Bulova Heritage “Devil Diver”

Bulova Devil Diver Green Dial

Price: $541, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 14.6mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Lug to Lug: 45.9mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Automatic Miyota 821D 

Joining other favorites like the Lunar Pilot and Chronograph “C” in Bulova’s retro-inspired Archive series is this re-edition of the 1972-released Bulova Oceanographer dive watch (nicknamed “Devil Diver” due to its 666-foot water resistance), now offered with a crowd-pleasing green dial and and black-and-green unidirectional dive scale bezel. The case measures a rather hefty 44mm, with a 200-meter water resistance ensured by a screw-down crown. The wide rectangular hands and large dot indexes are faithful to the original model, as is the turtle shape of the case and its box-shaped crystal. The Japanese-made, automatic Miyota 821D fuels the watch’s 42-hour power reserve, protected behind a solid caseback.

Citizen Promaster Diver Fugu Automatic

Citizen Promaster Fugu

Price: $595, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 12.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Automatic Miyota 8204

Deriving its nickname from the Japanese word for a puffer fish — a reference to the distinctively grooved shape of the rotating divers’ bezel — the “Fugu” model from Citizen’s diverse Promaster Diver family originally debuted in 1989 and was revived for modern audiences in 2018. The hefty 44mm steel case features a textured screw-down at the unusual position of 8 o’clock, which prevents it from poking into the small of a diver’s wrist. The hands and hour indexes on the deep green dial (which echoes the color of the bezel) are thick and brightly lumed for underwater legibility; at 3 o’clock, the hour marker gives way to a day-date window with an eye-catching bicolor design (red print for the day, black for the date). Behind a caseback engraved with an illustration of a puffer fish is the automatic movement, the Japanese Miyota 8204.

Tissot PRX Powermatic 80 Green Dial

Tissot PRX Automatic Green Dial

Price: $650, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 11mm, Lug to Lug: 44.6mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Powermatic 80.111

Tissot added to the growing roster of sport-luxury watches on integrated steel bracelets in 2021 with the re-release of the PRX, a watch that first hit the market in 1978. The “P” and “R” in the name stand for “precise” and “robust,” and the “X” is actually a Roman numeral “10” depicting the model’s 10 atmospheres (aka 100 meters) of water resistance. Like its predecessor from the disco era, the first modern PRX model had a quartz movement, but that one was swiftly followed by an automatic version containing the brand’s Powermatic 80 caliber. The stainless steel, barrel-shaped case of this green-dialed model from 2022 measures 40 mm in diameter, a relatively svelte 11 mm in thickness, and integrates smoothly into a supple steel bracelet. The dial features a distinctive waffle-pattern motif and a sunray finish.

Seiko Prospex Alpinist

Seiko Prospex AlpinistPrice: $725, Reference: SPB1221, Case Size: 39.5mm, Case Height: 13.2mm, Lug to Lug: 46.4mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Automatic Seiko Caliber 6R35

The Alpinist, the first dedicated Seiko sports watch, traces its long history back to 1959, with an original model that was targeted, as its name implies, to outdoorsmen such as mountain climbers. This modern version, added recently to the Japanese watchmaker’s Prospex series and taking its aesthetic cues from the now-classic SARB017 reference, reimagines that vintage piece with a contemporary spin. Faithful to the historical model are the cathedral hands, gold accents on the markers and numerals, and magnifying lens over the date at 3 o’clock. New in this model are the dark green dial that contrasts attractively with the golden details, the “X” logo above 6 o’clock identifying the timepiece as a member of the Prospex family, and the 6R35 automatic caliber. A bonus for actual mountaineers and other adventurous explorer types: the inner rotating compass bezel, operated by the additional crown at 4 o’clock.

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Tide Green

Maurice Lacroix Aikon Tide 

Price: $750, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 11mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Quartz 

Introduced in 2022, Maurice Lacroix’s beach-ready Aikon Tide has a case constructed from a revolutionary composite material that combines ocean-recovered plastic with glass fiber. The resulting substance is twice as hard as standard plastic and five times more resistant, with the added bonus of also having a smaller carbon footprint than regular PET. The Green edition’s dial bears the familiar aesthetic hallmarks of the Aikon collection, which debuted in 2016 as an evolution of the brand’s Calypso model from the 1990s, including the distinctive “clawed” case, somewhat Royal-Oak-evocative dial, and the smooth integration between the case and the Easy-Change rubber strap. Replacing the Clous de Paris pattern on the dials of the Aikon Automatic and other predecessors in the collection, an ocean-inspired motif called “Vague du Jura” decorates the dials of the Tide models.

Hamilton Khaki Field Titanium Automatic

Hamilton Khaki Automatic TitaniumPrice: $895, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 11.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Hamilton H-10 (ETA C07.611 base)

The Khaki Field Automatic is directly descended from a 1960s watch that Hamilton provided for marines during the Vietnam War era and strives for a high level of authenticity in its period details. With a modest 38-mm case made of titanium, and containing the self-winding Caliber H-10, which packs an impressive 80-hour power reserve, the model also represents an impressive value proposition for lovers of vintage military watches. The cases have a matte finish to eliminate glare, which would have been a definite boon for an infantryman trying to stay out of sight of jungle snipers. A set of drilled lugs connect the watch to a sturdy nylon NATO-style strap with coordinating leather hardware that enhances both its look and its robustness. The military green tone of this model’s dial is more decorative than utilitarian, but it drives home the historical theme in an appealing way.

Mühle Glashütte Panova Green

Mühle Glashütte Panova Green

Price: $999, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 10.4mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Sellita SW200-1 (Mühle version)

Germany’s Mühle Glashütte started its 150+ years of business as a producer of precision timers and measuring tools for various professional fields and now specializes in high-end tool watches for sailors, divers, pilots, and military units. The minimalist Panova model is something of an outlier, intended for quieter, dressier situations. The selection of stripped down, highly legible dial options includes the shiny green version featured here, with simple, thin rectangle hands and thin luminous hour markers. The Panova is outfitted with a modified Sellita SW200-1 with Muhle’s a customized rotor and proprietary woodpecker-neck regulator. The 40mm steel case is topped with a sapphire crystal and has a screw-down crown and case back to help ensure a 100-meter water resistance. It’s fitted on a brown leather NATO-style strap that recalls the German maker’s more utilitarian timepieces.

Mido Ocean Star 200C Green

Mido Ocean Star 200C GreenPrice: $1,150, Case Size: 42.5mm, Case Height: 12.25mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Automatic Mido Caliber 80 (ETA C07.621)

Wildly popular in Latin America but only vaguely familiar to many watch aficionados in the U.S., Mido has been making watches since 1918 and its nautically inspired Ocean Star line has been around since the 1940s, even before the era of the modern diver’s watch. The Ocean Star 200C Green is notable for its dive scale bezel made of ceramic and for the engraved wave-like pattern on its verdant dial. The stainless steel case measures 42.5mm in diameter and around 12mm thick and connects to a bracelet with an array of brushed and polished finishes. The ETA-based automatic Caliber 80 powers the watch’s timekeeping and day/date functions as it ticks behind a solid caseback with a polished relief starfish.

Formex Essence Chronometer 39mm

Formex Essence Chronometer 39mmPrice: $1,490, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 10mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.5mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic SW200 COSC

Founded in 1999 and based in Biel, Switzerland, independent brand Formex has drawn admiration for making durable and stylish watches at value-oriented prices. The Essence Chronometer at the heart of the Formex collection is, as its name suggests, a COSC-certified chronometer and also features all three of the technical elements upon which Formex builds its brand identity: a fine adjustment system for giving the straps and bracelets a perfect fit; a patented case-suspension system drawn from the world of high-performance bikes that uses tiny springs between the upper and lower case to cushion the movement; and a quick strap-changing system that requires no tools. This model’s bright green dial is lent an extra layer of interest by the CNC-machined horizontal line pattern on its surface.

Longines HydroConquest Green Dial

Longines HydroConquest

Price: $1,700, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 11.9mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 300m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Longines Caliber L888

The Longines HydroConquest builds upon the brand’s sport-luxury Conquest design for an even more rugged and sport-oriented aesthetic, one aimed squarely at recreational divers and those looking to emulate their look. The HydroConquest’s unidirectional ratcheting bezel has a 60-minute dive-scale insert, with the first 15-minute sector delineated by minute markers and Arabic numerals at each subsequent 10-minute interval. The more traditional sword handset of the Conquest is here replaced by a short, faceted hour hand with a bulging luminous diamond, a baton minute hand, and a lollipop-style sweep seconds hand. On this model, a military green dial and bezel harmonizes with a rubber strap in the same color. The case is water resistant to 300 meters, more than sufficient to meet ISO requirements for a diving watch, and contains the Longines-exclusive Caliber L888, built upon the ETA L31.L11 base movement and souped up with a 72-hour power reserve and a frequency of 25,200 vph.

Frederique Constant Vintage Rally Healey Automatic

Frederique Constant Vintage Healy Automatic

Price: $1,995, Case Size: 40mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic FC-303 (Sellita SW200-1 base)

Frederique Constant pays tribute to classic rally cars and their “gentlemen drivers” with this three-hand-date model in a 40-mm polished steel case and a dial in the deep, bold green historically associated with British motorsports and vintage Healey cars in particular. The hands, indices and flange are all silver-coated and the automatic movement inside the 2,888-piece limited edition is Frederique Constant’s Sellita-based FC-303, with 26 jewels, a 28,800-vph frequency, and a 38-hour power reserve. As is traditional with the brand’s special Healey editions, its solid caseback is engraved with the image of a classic Healey automobile — on this model, it’s the Healey 100S N0J393 — and an individual serial number. Completing the package is the brown calfskin leather strap with contrast stitching and perforations inspired by vintage racing gloves.

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Cervo Volante

Oris Big Crown Pointer Date Cervo Volante

Price: $2,000, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 12.5mm, Lug to Lug: 45.5mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 50m, Movement: Automatic Sellita SW200

This version of Oris’ popular Big Crown Pointer Date model emerged from a collaboration between the sustainability-minded Swiss watchmaker and Cervo Volante, a Swiss leather goods manufacturer that uses sustainable deer-skin leather in its footwear and accessories. The steel case measures 38mm and features the hallmark coin-edged bezel and oversized fluted crown that gives the model its name. The gradient green dial, with central pointer date hand and 31-day outer scale, is inspired by the colors of the Alps and the case attaches to an oak-brown strap made of Cervo Volante’s signature deer leather and finished in a vegetable tanning process. Ticking inside is Oris Caliber 754, based on the Sellita SW200-1 and customized with Oris’s familiar red-centered rotor, which imparts the watch a 38-hour power reserve.

Rado Captain Cook 

Rado Captain Cook 

Price: $2,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 12mm, Lug to Lug: 48.2mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Automatic ETA C07.611 

Rado’s Captain Cook is based on a heretofore obscure 1960s diving watch and eschews the modernist aesthetic that defines the brand overall in favor of a sporty, vintage look. The 42mm case diameter of the watch featured here elegantly splits the difference between the more modest, historically accurate 37mm and the stately 44mm models that preceded it. The unidirectional rotating bezel has a dive-scale insert made of high-tech ceramic, a hallmark material of the brand. The 200-meter water-resistant case has a solid caseback stamped with three seahorses, an aquatic motif that references historical Rado dive watches. The green dial, in contrast, is defiantly modern, albeit still with a vintage touch, namely the Rado rotating anchor symbol at 12 o’clock with its ’60s-inspired ruby-colored background (which echoes the eye-catching ruby-red date numeral in the3 o’clock date window. Behind the stamped caseback is the automatic ETA C07.611 caliber, notable for its lengthy 80-hour power reserve.

Ball Engineer II Marvelight Chronometer Green Dial

Ball Marvelight ChronometerPrice: $2,349, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 13.6mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100m, Movement: Automatic Ball RR1103-C

Founded in 1891, Ball Watch built its reputation on dependably accurate railroad watches, which were officially adopted as “Railway Standard” and worn by train conductors and other railroad workers throughout the early part of the 20th century. This dedication to “industrial function” drives the brand to this day, including in its use of chronometer-certified calibers like the one behind the blue-green dial of the Engineer II Marvelight Chronometer. The dial features another Ball brand hallmark, the use of tritium on its hands and indexes; tritium glows longer than the Super-LumiNova used on most watch dials and requires no outside light source to activate its luminescence. Inside the 40mm steel case, Ball’s Caliber RR 1103-C is guarded against shocks by the company’s proprietary Amortiser system and against magnetism up to 80,000 gauss by an inner cage made of “mu-metal,” an alloy of nickel, iron, copper, and molybdenum with a high degree of magnetic impermeability.

Oris Aquis New York Harbor Limited Edition

Oris Aquis New York Harbor Edition

Price: $2,700, Case Size: 41.5mm, Thickness: 13.5mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Oris 733 (Sellita SW 200-1 base) (Sellita SW510 base)

Since its introduction in 2011, the Oris Aquis collection has become a tentpole in the brand’s portfolio, with numerous versions in an ever-widening variety of colorways, materials and sizes, including several ocean conservation-focused limited editions. The most recent of these is the New York Harbor Limited Edition (of 2,000 pieces), with a 41.5mm steel case and an all-steel bezel with a raised-relief dive scale. Its green mother-of-pearl dial and engraved caseback are a reference to the ambitious mission of the Billion Oyster Project, a New York-based nonprofit dedicated to restoring and rebuilding the oyster reefs of New York Harbor with the assistance of more than 50 oyster-serving restaurants (who donate used oyster shells) as well as NYC area volunteers. The caseback drives home the theme with its engraved images of oysters.

Longines Legend Diver Bronze

Longines Legend Diver BronzePrice: $3,000, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 12.7mm, Lug to Lug: 48.2mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300m, Movement: Automatic ETA A31.L11

Longines updated the Legend Diver, a modern re-issue of a compressor-style dive watch it produced in 1960, with a case made of bronze, a metal historically used in maritime equipment due to its anti-corrosive properties, and paired it with a sea-green lacquered dial. The 42-mm, 300-meter water-resistant case replicates the silhouette of the original and includes that vintage model’s two crowns — one for winding the watch, the other for operating the internal rotating divers’ bezel. The lacquered dial has a gradient effect, with an emerald green center radiating to an outer edge of black. The solid titanium caseback has an engraving of a diver and hides the movement, automatic Caliber L883.3 (a modified ETA A31.L02 produced exclusively for Longines), with a power reserve of 65 hours.

Raymond Weil Freelancer Automatic Chronograph

Raymond Weil Freelancer Chronograph

Price: $3,150, Case Size: 43.5mm, Thickness: 13.5mm, Water Resistance: 300m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic RW5030 (Sellita SW510 base)

Independently owned Geneva brand Raymond Weil has been making watches since 1976 that have become well known for their value proposition. The classically designed Freelancer collection elegantly treads the line between everyday and dressy, as evidenced by the predominantly green colorway of this chronograph-equipped timepiece powered by the self-winding, Sellita-based RW5030 movement. The dial’s outer ring has a grooved texture reminiscent of a phonograph record, speaking to the company’s eponymous founder’s love of music, and its green colors are echoed in the scratch-resistant ceramic bezel, with its racing-inspired tachymeter scale, and on the leather strap, which anchors the 43mm stainless steel case to the wrist. The movement amasses a 56-hour power reserve as it ticks behind a sapphire exhibition caseback.

Bell & Ross BR V2-92 Military Green

Bell & Ross Military

Price: $3,300, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 12mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100m, Movement: Automatic BR-CAL.302

Bell & Ross’ best-known watches hail from its square-cased, dashboard clock-inspired Instrument series, but for fans of more traditional vintage-look round watches the compa ny offers the BR V2-92 Military Green, which takes its inspiration from the matte color schemes used for military uniforms and equipment. Its 42mm steel case has a bidirectional steel bezel with an anodized black aluminum ring framing the olive green dial, with a black-printed minute ring, large, luminous hour numerals and indexes, and a small round date window at 4:30. Pilot-inspired hour and minute hands sweep over the dial, with a central seconds hand bearing an airplane-shaped counterweight. Inside the 100-meter water case is the Sellita-based BR-CAL.302 automatic movement, storing a 38-hour power reserve.

TAG Heuer Aquaracer Gents Green Dial

TAG Heuer Aquaracer

Price: $4,200 Case Size: 43mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300m, Movement: Automatic TAG Heuer Caliber 5

TAG Heuer has played with a variety of colors in its Aquaracer collection of sporty divers’ watches since the collection’s revamp in 2016, including the emerald-green emerald green dial on this model, which the brand says was inspired “by the mesmerizing blue and green shades of the ocean.” The steel case has the stately 43-mm dimensions introduced in the 2016 models, up from the 41-mm size of their predecessors. The studded, 12-sided unidirectional rotating bezel features engraved lacquered numerals on the dive scale and the sapphire crystal includes a magnifying lens over the 3 o’clock date window. The green sunray-motif dial is enhanced with a horizontal line pattern meant to evoke the look of wooden docks at sailboat piers. Inside the watch is TAG Heuer’s automatic Caliber 5, with a power reserve of 38 hours, which beats behind a solid, screw-down caseback engraved with a divers’ helmet.

Omega Seamaster Diver 300

Omega Seamaster Diver 300MPrice: $5,400, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 13.6mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300m, Movement: Automatic Omega 8800

The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M made its debut in 1993 and shortly thereafter achieved cinematic glory as the go-to watch of superspy James Bond. Now available in dozens of colorways and executions, this stylish tool watch can be had for just over $5,000 in a stainless steel case on a sporty rubber strap. The case’s unidirectional bezel has a scalloped edge for easy gripping and a ceramic insert with a white enamel scale to set dive times; its 300-meter water resistance is ensured by a screw-down crown and enhanced with a helium release valve. The green dial, also made of ceramic, hosts a laser-engraved wave pattern and skeletonized hands. Despite the model’s extreme water resistance, Omega has installed a sapphire crystal caseback, offering a view of the automatic, co-axial Caliber 8800.

Omega Seamaster Aqua Terra 150M Green Dial

Omega Seamaster Aqua TerraPrice: $5,700, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 13.2mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 150m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Master Chronometer Caliber 8900

A dressier and more understated sibling to Omega’s sportier Seamaster models, and to some extent harkening back to the original 1948 Seamaster, the Aqua Terra collection eschews the core model’s rotating divers’ bezel and other tool-watch accouterments for a more streamlined style. The dials are characterized by simple wedge-shaped hour markers inspired by the silhouette of a sailboat, a triangular hour hand paired with an arrow-tipped minute hand, and — as of the most recent revamp of the collection in 2017 — a textured line pattern on the dial that echoes the teakwood deck of a boat. This green-dialed timepiece’s 41mm stainless steel case houses Omega’s Master Chronometer Caliber 8900, which offers chronometric precision, a 60-hour power reserve, and a high degree of antimagnetic protection as it beats behind a clear sapphire caseback.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41mm Ref. 124300

Rolex Oyster Perpetual 41mmPrice: $6,150, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 11.7mm, Lug to Lug: 47.5mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100m, Movement: Automatic Rolex 3230 

Rolex’s three-handed Oyster Perpetual collection is (relatively speaking) the megabrand’s entry-level timepiece while still carrying quite a bit of stylish cachet. Rolex has a distinguished history of using green on its dials (as any proud owner or frustrated seeker of the Submariner “Hulk” or “Kermit” models will attest) and puts the color to good use again in this 41mm model, whose Oyster case is water-resistant to 100 meters and whose verdant sunray-finished dial has hands and indexes coated with Rolex’s proprietary long-glowing Chromalight substance. Like all modern Rolex watches, this model houses an in-house movement with a slew of patented features, like the ultra-efficient Chronegery escapement made of nickel phosphorus and the antimagnetic Parachrom hairspring, all contributing to the watch’s 70-hour power reserve and chronometer-certified accuracy. 

Grand Seiko Elegance GMT SBGJ251

Grand Seiko Elegance GMT Price: $6,800, Case Size: 39.5mm, Thickness: 14.1mm, 20mm, Lug to Lug: 46.9mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30m, Movement: Automatic GS 9S86

As part of its year-long celebration of parent company Seiko’s 140th anniversary, Japanese luxury watchmaker Grand Seiko released four watches in the Elegance GMT collection, celebrating a segment of the twenty-four seasonal phases observed in Japan. The rich green dial of the Shunbun Ref. SBGJ251 pictured here pays tribute to the peak of spring at Shunbun, the period of the Japanese equinox in April when cherry blossoms bloom on the mountains of Japan’s countryside. The 39.5-mm-diameter case features Grand Seiko’s hallmark Zaratsu polishing while the dial, with its gold-colored GMT hand, sports a nature-inspired texture. Inside the case is the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT caliber 9S86, an in-house automatic movement with a frequency of 36,000 vph, an accuracy of +5/-3 seconds per day, and a 55-hour power reserve.

Panerai Luminor Quaranta Verde Militare

Panerai Luminor Verde Militare

Price: $7,100, Case Size: 40mm, Case Height: 12.45mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic Panerai P.900

Like its predecessor, the Radiomir, Panerai’s Luminor Marina took its name from the luminous substance that was applied to its dial, which aided the watch’s first users, Italian navy divers of the 1940s, in reading the time on underwater missions. What made the Luminor more famous, however, was its use of the patented crown-protection bridge device that now identifies the model from across a room. In 2021, Panerai released the Luminor Quaranta (italian for “forty”), which replaced the 42mm versions of the Luminor Marina that were at the time the smallest options in that collection. At 40mm, the all-green Verde Militare featured here possesses all the identifying features of the Luminor Marina, including the cushion-shaped case with safety-locking crown protector and the sandwich-style dial with small seconds at 9 o’clock and date window at 3 o’clock. The movement inside is the automatic P.900 caliber, originally developed for the Luminor Due sub-family, and packing a power reserve of three full days.

IWC Portugieser Ref. IW371615

 IWC Portugieser Chronograph

Price: $8,400, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 13mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30m, Movement: Automatic IWC 69355

IWC’s Portugieser collection is one of the Schaffhausen brand’s staples, originally created at the behest of a Portuguese client in 1939. The chronograph version with its parallel bicompax design debuted a few years ago with a dark green sunray dial. The subdials for the running seconds (at 6 o’clock) and elapsed hours (at 12 o’clock) are slightly recessed, and swept over by feuille hands. The Arabic numerals are surrounded by a minute scale and a ¼-second scale on the flange that enables precise readings on the central chronograph seconds hand. IWC’s manufacture Caliber 69355 beats inside the stainless steel case, its integrated chronograph functions controlled by a column wheel and equipped with a flyback function. The movement, on display behind a sapphire caseback, is also endowed with IWC’s emblematic, efficiency-focused Pellaton winding system.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso Tribute

Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso

Price: $8,750, Case Size: 45.6mm x 27.4mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Jaeger-LeCoultre Manually Wound Caliber 822

Jaeger-LeCoultre’s signature dress watch, the Reverso, was originally designed as a sports watch, its reversible swiveling case making it a practical timekeeper for polo players during a match. In production since 1931, the Reverso is now available in numerous variations but the core three-handed Reverso Tribute model most faithfully echoes the classical Art Deco look of its ancestor. The rectangular case has the model’s clean lines and gadroons, the sunray green dial features Dauphine hands, trapezoidal applied hour indexes, and a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock. Jaeger-LeCoultre’s manually wound manufacture Caliber 822, shaped to fit the case’s soft rectangular dimensions, beats inside. In another callback to the Reverso’s polo-playing origins, the leather strap, which echoes the forest green tones of the dial,is from Casa Fagliano, an Argentinean purveyor of high-end polo boots.

Breitling Premier B09

Breitling Premier B09

Price: $8,900, Case Size: 40mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Lug to Lug: 47.5mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Manually wound Breitling Caliber B09

Breitling’s Premier collection, a revival of an elegant gents’ model introduced by founding-family scion Willy Breitling in 1943, debuted in 2018 with automatic movements, and new models with more historically appropriate manually wound calibers followed them up in 2021. One of the most noteworthy is the Premier B09 Chronograph 40, with a 40-mm steel case and an unusual “pistachio green” dial. Inside the 100-meter water-resistant case is Breitling’s manufacture Caliber B09, a manual-winding version of the company’s flagship base movement, the self-winding, chronograph-integrated B01, with a column wheel, vertical clutch, and 70 hours of power reserve. Among the Premier collection’s design hallmarks are the grooved lines in the sides of the cases, which Breitling says were “inspired by speed;” period-style Arabic hour numerals; and beveled, speedometer-style hour and minute hands treated with lume. The “semi-shiny” alligator straps are finished with tone-on-tone stitching and each movement meets COSC chronometer requirements for reliability and accuracy.

Breitling Navitimer B01 41mm

Breitling Navitimer B01 Price: $9,000 - $18,500, Case size: 41mm, Thickness: 13.6mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Lug to Lug: 47mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 30 meters, Movement: Automatic Breitling B01

Engineered for smaller wrists while still boasting Breitling’s in-house B01 chronograph movement, the 41mm version of the iconic Navitimer — which revolutionized the genre of pilots’ watches when it debuted in 1952 — offers a range of dial colors with a mostly unisex appeal, including the light-green “pistachio” model pictured above, with contrasting white subdials for the built-in chronograph’s hours and minutes and running seconds displays. As with all Navitimers, the dial and bezel also feature the emblematic slide-rule scale developed for pilots to make quick calculations on the wrist. Arguably, the view of the B01 Caliber through the exhibition casebacks is slightly more vibrant, as its dimensions are more form-fitting to the smaller case diameter. Three models are in stainless steel, one in 18k rose gold, with stitched alligator leather straps or metal bracelets as options for all. 

Zenith Chronomaster Revival “Safari”

Zenith Chronomaster Revival Safari

Price: $9,000, Case Size: 37mm, Thickness: 12.01mm, Water Resistance: 50m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic El Primero Caliber 400

Zenith’s historically significant El Primero caliber marked its 50th anniversary in 2019, a year that saw the brand release a modern, highly period-accurate reissue of the very first watch equipped with that movement, 1969’s Ref. A384. The Chronomaster Revival Safari is a modern take on that historical timepiece, using micro-blasted titanium for its barrel-shaped case and sporting a dark green dial with black subdials and faux-patina indexes. The date window at 4:30, with its white numerals on a green background, is cleverly disguised to blend into the white-printed minute ring. The automatic El Primero movement boasts a 36,600-vph frequency (and hence a chronograph function accurate to 1/10-second) and a lengthy 50-hour power reserve. The sturdy fabric strap matches the main color of the dial, with tone-on-tone stitching and ecru-colored detailing that reflects the dial’s faux-patina elements.

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris

Jaeger-LeCoultre Polaris

Price: $9,450, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 13.1mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre 899

Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the original Memovox Polaris in 1968 as the first diver’s watch outfitted with a mechanical alarm function. Its successor, introduced in 2018 and called simply the Polaris, leaves out the alarm but retains other notable elements from the original, including the case’s dual crowns, one of which is used to operate a rotating inner bezel. The dial of the most recent model consists of three concentric circles with contrasting finishes: sunray in the center, graining on the outer circle with its vintage-inspired Arabic numerals, and opaline for the rotating inner rotating bezel flange — and dazzles the eye with its lacquered, deep green double-gradient finish. Ticking inside the 42mm stainless steel case is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s self-winding manufacture Caliber 899, which bestows the watch a respectable 70-hour power reserve.

Glashütte Original SeaQ Green Dial

Glashütte Original SeaQ Reed Green

Price: $10,200, Case Size: 39.5mm, Thickness: 12.15mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 200m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Caliber 39-11

The SeaQ dive watch hails from Glashütte Original’s Spezialist collection of sport-luxury timepieces inspired by the Spezimatic Type RP TS 200, a watch developed by the German brand’s ancestor for recreational divers and released in 1969. Its stainless-steel case measures 39.5 mm in diameter and has an assortment of polished and brushed finishes. Both the dial and the ceramic inlay of the unidirectional rotating dive-scale bezel are in a rich “reed green” color developed by the brand. Like its brethren in the Spezialist collection, the SeaQ meets the (German) DIN 8306 and (international) ISO 6425 standards for dive watches, and its solid engraved caseback protects the in-house Glashütte Original Caliber 39-11, with its 40-hour power reserve, from water pressures down to 200 meters.

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

Tudor Black Bay Fifty-Eight 18K

Price: $16,825, Case Size: 39mm, Case Thickness: 11.9mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Automatic Tudor Caliber MT5402/MT5400

The most expensive and exclusive timepiece from Tudor’s sporty Black Bay Fifty-Eight family is the 18K edition, named for its 39mm case made of 18k yellow gold. The case, which maintains the same 200-meter water resistance as its steel siblings, has a brushed finish for an appropriately understated look. The familiar Black Bay “snowflake” handset is also made from 18k yellow gold, making for a pleasing contrast with the deep green dial, framed by a gold bezel whose aluminum dive-scale insert is dressed in the same colors (dark green with gold-colored details). Tudor’s in-house Caliber MT5400 ticks behind the watch’s sapphire caseback, with a 28,800-vph frequency and 70-hour power reserve. The Black Bay Fifty Eight 18k is thus far delivered only on a dark brown alligator leather strap with an 18k yellow-gold buckle, with an additional green fabric strap with a gold stripe that pairs with the dial for a more monochromatic style.

H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Centre Seconds Matrix Green

Moser Streamliner Centre Seconds

Price: $21,190, Case Size: 40mm, Case Height: 9.9mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 120 meters, Movement: Automatic Caliber HMC 200

Moser’s Streamliner family is named for the aerodynamically curved high-speed trains of the early 20th century that inspire the watches’ design. The time-only Streamliner that followed up the original chronograph model also ushered in an all-new dial color for the brand. The watch’s cushion-shaped stainless steel case measures 40mm and smoothly integrates, sans lugs, into a fluidly curving, articulated steel bracelet. The slightly domed sapphire crystal of the ergonomically sculpted case protects the dial, executed in Moser’s signature fumé style and sporting a new color called Matrix Green, which offers a palette of shades ranging from olive green to rose gold depending on the lighting. The dial’s double-sectored hands have inserts made of Globolight, a ceramic-based luminous material. Moser’s self-winding HMC 200 movement, equipped with a solid gold oscillating weight and amassing a power reserve of three days, beats inside.

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Limited Edition

Girard-Perregaux Laureato Aston MartinPrice: $21,400, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 12.01mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Caliber GP03300

Introduced in 1975, and redesigned frequently over the years since, Girard-Perregaux’s Laureato returned to its elegantly simple sport-luxury roots in 2016 and has since expanded to become the historical Swiss maison’s flagship family of timepieces. The Laureato Chronograph Aston Martin Limited Edition features a sleek, tricompax dial in the historical “British Racing Green” assigned to Aston Martin cars that competed in international auto races in the 1900s. With its distinctive green shade achieved through the painstaking application of 21 layers of paint, the dial offers added historical flair with its use of a cross-hatched diamond pattern first used on Aston Martin’s “AM” logo of the early 1920s. The 42-mm-diameter case bears all the hallmarks of the modern Laureato, including a softly angled octagonal bezel and an integrated bracelet with H-shaped links. Girard-Perregaux’s automatic Caliber GP03300-0141, beats behind the caseback’s inscribed Aston Martin logo.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore ChronographPrice: $34,900, Case Size: 44mm, Case Height: 14.4mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic Audemars Piguet Caliber 3126 

Audemars Piguet has been expanding its color palette in recent years and in 2020 introduced three new versions of its Royal Oak Offshore Selfwinding Chronograph in brushed black ceramic cases, with dials that differ subtly but significantly from their predecessors in their dials’ use of Arabic hour numerals in place of the previous baton indexes. The model featured here uses a smoked green both for the waffle-pattern “Mega Tapisserie” dial and the octagonal bezel with visible screws — hallmarks of the Royal Oak collection since the first model famously debuted in 1972. The crown, pushers, and textured rubber strap all sport the same green tone, making for a harmonious contrast with the matte ceramic case. The dials feature prominent, applied gold Arabic numerals at eight of the hour positions; rhodium-toned subdials; a date at 3 o’clock; and luminous hands in the classical Royal Oak style. Audemars Piguet’s manufacture Caliber 3126/3840 beats inside, providing a 50-hour power reserve.

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3 Comments

Join the Conversation

JS
John S.

I expected to see the new Nomos Club Sport 37 in Petrol Green mentioned. Is suspect it’s absence it due to it being a new release.
Regarding the Tag Aquaracer mentioned is titanium in both case & bracelet and is absolutely stunning in person. Not a fan of Tag’s twelve sided bezels, this reference had me forgetting all about that.

JS
John S.

I clicked in expecting to see Nomos new Club Sport 37 in Petrol Green mentioned. This oversight may just be a matter of timing as it was released in early October.
Also worth noting, the Tag Aquaracer mentioned is titanium (case & bracelet)
and is absolutely stunning in person.

JB
Jay B.

Teddy,
This is one of your many very interesting articles with clear and crisp photos. I enjoy the histories attached to each watch as well.
Thanks for a great read,
Jay B.

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