Seiko Luxe Presage SPB495 Review: An Uncommon Enamel Dial Value Proposition

Seiko has one of the most expansive catalogs in the watch industry, which is key to the Japanese brand’s prowess, but its nuances can also make it quite overwhelming at times to sort through from a consumer perspective. Today, I’m going for hyperspecificity on multiple levels, not only focusing on the brand’s “Luxe” tier, but also on a specific series within that tier, and on one watch, well, specifically. As you’ve likely already noticed from this article's title, we’re gathered here today to jump into the deep end with the Presage Classics Craftsmanship Series SPB495. Though its name doesn’t exactly roll off the tongue, the Seiko Presage SPB495, to me, truly demonstrates the dynamic range to be found within the contemporary Seiko lineup, given that you have the patience to sort through the complexities of the brand’s collections and naming convention nuances.

[toc-section heading="History And Context"] 

Seiko’s Craftsmanship series officially made its start in 2013 as the brand celebrated its centennial anniversary. Positioned within the larger Presage collection, this initiative has been a way for the brand to further enhance the collection's foundational elements, mainly being a mechanical line, guided by and harkening to Seiko’s centuries-long history, with a focused attention to its dials. Essentially, the Craftsmanship series adds in more sophisticated, high-end elements into the mix, paying tribute to many traditional, artisanal techniques that have been a part of Japan’s history for centuries. Enamel, urushi lacquer, Arita porcelain, and shippo enamel have all been fair game here. Seiko Presage Craftsmanship watches are made to mark large milestones in the brand’s legacy, and are typically released as limited editions. 

The Seiko Presage SPB495 launched over ten years after the Craftsmanship series began, debuting in the spring of 2025. Unlike the initial Craftsmanship models, the SPB495J1 wasn’t made to celebrate a specific anniversary. Instead, this watch is a tribute to Seiko’s first pocketwatch, the Timekeeper from 1895. Imagining the pocket watch of yesteryear wrist-side, the enamel dial of the SPB495J1 was made in partnership with Misturu Yokosawa and his team. Yokosawa is a master enamel artisan who has spent over half a century perfecting his craft, and is well-regarded for his ability to apply extremely thin coats of enamel with flawless execution. As you might be familiar with now (especially after my recent exploration of JDM Seikos), the “J” in this watch’s reference number denotes that this piece is Japanese-made. There is some oddity here, as Seiko seems to drop the “J” on this watch’s reference code on the U.S. sight product page, but we still do have the tiny “JAPAN” script to tip us off to this fact as well. 

[toc-section heading="Case And Wear"] 

Aesthetically, the Seiko Presage SPB495 leans heavily into classic, dress-watch style codes. This makes sense, given that it's a modern reinterpretation of Seiko’s first-ever pocket watch, and was released at the turn of the century. But in terms of its sizing and wearing experience, this is a watch that’s firmly grounded in the present. Measuring 40.2mm (48mm lug-to-lug) in super-hard-coated steel with a case profile of 12.1mm, the SPB495J1  is in the widely accepted range of what we consider to be dress watches now, though it does lean towards the larger end of that spectrum. We’re not seeing Seiko here call back to the even tinier dress watch proportions of centuries past, but align with the current standards of today. Something old, something new. 

In terms of the strap it's paired with, we do go the classic dress watch route. You can’t really get a more classic dress watch than the old reliable white dial-and-black leather strap combo. To get specific about the leather itself, Seiko details that the strap the SPB495J1 is paired with is in cowhide, made from leather that’s been certified by the sustainability standards of the Leather Working Group (LWG). Because it's cowhide, I imagine this strap will wear in beautifully.

[toc-section heading="Dial"] 

Dial side, the Seiko Presage SPB495 is a pretty faithful tribute to the Timekeeper pocket watch of 1895. The Roman numeral indices, additional subdial at 6 o’clock, and white and black color palette all harken back to Seiko’s original pocket watch. That being said, there are plenty of details to be found on the wristwatch at hand that differentiate it from its heritage inspirations. 

A large part of the watch’s appeal is the luxurious, lustrous finish of the white enamel dial (a process which was, of course, done painstakingly by hand by the aforementioned Yokosawa). The classic details, like the railroad minutes track, Roman numerals marking the hours, and bright blue, heat-tempered handset, stand out in rich contrast to the slick sheen of the enamel’s finish. While the Timekeeper pocketwatch featured a small seconds indicator, Seiko has instead gone for a 24-hour indicator in that quintessential subdial at six. My only gripe with the dial here is that I find all the text hovering under the 12 o’clock position to be a little bit much, but there are so many other details to love about the craftsmanship of this watch that I think I can let that slide.

[toc-section heading="Movement"] 

For its movement, the SPB495J1 utilizes the in-house 6RH5 automatic caliber with manual winding. Given the “three-day” text on the dial, I can only assume you’ve already been tipped off to this caliber’s 72-hour power reserve. Additionally, the 6RH5 runs on 24 jewels and is accurate to +25 to -15 seconds per day. As an added bonus, this caliber can be seen live in action through the sapphire crystal caseback.

[toc-section heading="Final Thoughts"] 

I think there’s still a bit of balking in the collector and enthusiast community when Seiko, under the Seiko moniker, goes more into the “luxury” sphere, being a brand that also deals so largely in entry-level, accessible price points. But in the case of specialized releases like this, I really get a kick out of seeing the brand put its weight behind some real, bona fide artisanal craftsmanship. It’s one of the largest, most influential watchmakers in the world, and I don’t really feel the need to pigeonhole them into the affordable category, so long as the brand continues to produce other compelling watches at lower price points. The Presage Classic Craftsmanship SPB495J1 is currently priced at $1,400 (and is only available for purchase at specialized Seiko retailers), but I will argue that it's still a lot of watch for the entry-level luxury price tag. You can learn more at seikoluxe.com