Seiko Baby Alpinist Review: The SPB155 Is Seiko's Best Field Watch

Before I get into my owner's review of the Seiko Baby Alpinist, I want to talk about field watches as a category. What makes a field watch? Is an explorers' watch the same as a field watch? Is a mountaineering watch? I wouldn’t necessarily call this, or rather these, age-old questions. Instead they illustrate an intellectual conundrum I’ve personally faced, being a fan of a certain format of watches.

Many who know me will also be sure to know I have a certain proclivity toward Rolex watches. I once wrote some of a definite treatise on the Rolex Explorer Ref. 14270 — the now neo-vintage version of the watch that was born right at the start of the 1990s and which has since served as the template for all Explorers to come. Its 36mm size, legible dial, and overall no-nonsense field-watch format have made it one of the best watch designs of all time. But it’s also not really a field watch, is it? It was born as a marketing exercise in the wake of Sir Edmund Hilary’s summiting of Everest alongside Tenzig Norgay. It’s an explorers watch, one with alpine roots.

The Seiko Baby Alpinist SPB155

Speaking of alpine, we cannot mention the word without invoking one of the most well-known attainable icons of the 1990s and 2000s: The Seiko Alpinist. But let’s go back even further, to the late 1950s and early ‘60s, when Seiko launched the small, 35mm Laurel Alpinist – a design that was revived by the brand in 2021. Fast-forward to 1995, when Seiko released a familiar format via the SCVF009, which was followed by a now-cult classic watch, the SARB017, in 2006. Today that model is carried through via the SPB121 Prospex Land model. It is known for its “love it or hate it” format, with a specific green dial, compass bezel, and dual-crown appearance. It was a cult watch and remains a cult watch. But the cult is large.

Now how am I going to stick the landing and tie the Rolex Explorer to the Seiko Alpinist? Well the simplest way would be — mountains. The correct way would be to bring up a certain Alpinist offshoot launched by Seiko in 2017. Yes, the Baby Alpinist SPB155, which took the green motif and carved its own trail up the mountain.

I have owned the SPB155 for going on five years. It’s a very curious watch because, to me, it’s not just a more straightforward alternative to the Seiko Alpinist proper, but one of the truest Explorer alternatives I’ve ever come across — and I mean that. In this review, I will be looking at this explorers watch, it’s 37mm sizing, how over-engineered the dial is for the money (and I mean that fully as a compliment), and what it’s been like to live with a field watch-meets-explorers watch-meets-Explorer alternative. So let’s get into this watch more in depth.

Case:

The Seiko Baby Alpinist SPB155 case measures 38mm diameter, with a height of 12.9mm, and a well proportioned  lug-to-lug of 46mm which makes for a very attainably priced Explorer alternative. This case offers what I would call an over-engineered 200 meters of water resistance, even while including a push-pull crown, making this as useful as a diver despite its field-watch looks.

The Explorer comparisons are only bolstered when you put this one on and really get the feel of the vintage-meets-modern wearability of the brushed and polished steel case, coupled with the three-link Oyster-style bracelet, complete with a twin-trigger signed clasp that is small enough to not interfere with either the wear or fit experience.

Wearability:

The case's 38mm size seems to be the universally accepted sweet spot these days and I get it. In many ways, the case diameter of this watch preserves the proportionality of a smaller size but adds just enough presence to make it a true contemporary choice. On wrist, this watch just disappears in all the right ways. It has a lightness that reminds me of a vintage watch, but also a sturdiness that gives the wearer a real sense of confidence in its overall reliability. I mean, this is a Seiko after all. These things just work.

Bracelet:

Now, one area where some are likely to point to as indicator of a potential lack of refinement is the bracelet, and not for the reasons you think. I mean, we have a nicely finished, brushed bracelet here, with a milled clasp. Overall, this is your higher-end Seiko fare. But, it does not taper at all. For me, this is not a concern at all, and is something I did not notice once when wearing it. Luckily, it has 20mm of lug width, meaning that, if you do take issue with the bracelet taper, there is no shortage of strap options for you, and this watch looks great on a strap.

Dial:

The dial is where this watch looks more like a $4,000 proposition than a sub-$1,000 one. I mean, really, I have seen watches at five times the price that deliver dials of a far lesser quality, but that’s not the point I am trying to make here. As an owner of this watch myself, I continue to find the look of it mesmerizing, and that is all due to the combination of how the dial works against the case. So, what do I mean by that? Well, let’s address this dial head-on. Much like the OG Alpinist, it brings the green coloration to the forefront, though the layout here is far more simplified. You wont see any compass indications, and Seiko has opted for a printed dial rather than one with applied markers. So, in a way, this is Explorer 1016-esque in that regard.

The dial has an ombré, smoked, fumé effect whereby it goes from a deep black to a deep green. But the color is only half the equation, because as you turn the watch in different light, you can see that the dial also has a tastefully crafted matte texture that brings the design to life depending on how you look at it. The design utilized a railroad-style outer track, which moves towards the larger hour markers that alternate between painted arrows and Arabic numerals positioned at an angle very similar to the original Alpinist, the main difference being that the latter watch used gold-toned applied markers where this one uses painted markers with a hint of faux-patina.

The vintage effect continues with the small, dotted lume plots, again a nod to vintage design, which shine nicely — dare I say, even elegantly. Overall, this dial is a masterclass in the intersection of quality and good design. The whole is greater than the sum of its parts and the watch over-delivers as a result, which is always a good thing. And I sure am glad that the cathedral hands were carried over from the original Alpinist, because they just give that extra oommph of toolish charm.

Movement:

The 6R35 is a now familiar player in this price segment for Seiko. While it is finished in a utilitarian style, it does feature some subtle waves on the signed rotor and clean machine brushing on the bridges. These are flourishes which are on display via the exhibition caseback. The SPB155 is effectively the least expensive model to house this movement, only bolstering its value proposition with its hacking seconds functionality and 70-hour power reserve operating at 3Hz.

Naturally, one of things you’ll hear people bemoan is that the 6R35 caliber is quoted for an accuracy of +25 to -15 seconds per day. Many Seiko movements are quoted this way but the truth is that they are almost always a bit better than their stated specs might indicate. Think of these as conservative estimates. Plus, regulation is straightforward if necessary by any capable watchmaker, which should make this something of a non-issue.

The Pros and Cons:

As with any watch there are going to be downsides. For some, the con will be the lack of taper in the bracelet, for others, the existence of a date window at 3 o’clock, and for others still, the lack of a signed crown. For me, none of these are deal breakers, but I would have liked to have seen a signed crown. As for the pros, this is some of the best execution of vintage-meets-modern I have ever seen in this price segment. It scratches that Explorer itch for me, and the domed sapphire crystal is an added-quality plus that, while picking up reflection, also gives some "vintagey" distortion. The 38mm size is pitch perfect.

Conclusion:

If the Alpinist was never your bag because it was too quirky, the Baby Alpinist might just be the answer. As an entry point to a premium Seiko movement tier, with good finishing both on the case and movement, as well as a dial that sings, this watch sits perfectly in an often mishandled segment. Is it cheap? No, but it also doesn't break the bank while providing a sense of style and purpose that could make this a potential "one watch for life" option. And I find that so cool.

Price: $725, Case Diameter: 38mm, Thickness: 12.9mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46mm, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Auto Seiko 6R35, Crystal: Sapphire.