Oris Debuts New Big Crown Pointer Date "Bullseye"

Hölstein’s own Oris has been on quite a roll with its watch releases lately (I mean, I think the recent revamp of the ProPilot Date speaks for itself). Today, the watchmaker has turned its focus to another one of its most storied collections, reviving another of the brand’s historic designs right on the dial. I’m here to formally introduce you to the Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye: the latest, equally playful and dynamic take on the collection, reviving a bold black-and-white dial not seen in nearly three decades. 

[toc-section heading="History and Context"] 

The Big Crown Pointer Date has been a staple in the world of Oris since it first debuted in 1938. The key design elements that are the foundation of the collection are right there in the name: bold, oversized crown at three o’clock, and the novel pointer date function that combines a dedicated hand and date scale around the dial’s perimeter to remind you what day it is (extremely helpful for Type B people like me). Initially designed as an aviation tool watch, these two details were key for both boosting legibility and ease of setting, even while wearing big gloves. The line remains one of the brand’s most defining collections, and it's probably the first thing you think about when the Oris name gets thrown around. 

The “Bullseye” dial is likely a little less familiar for contemporary enthusiasts, given that it was officially shelved in 1998. But the eye-catching color-blocked design has been a part of the Oris design even longer than the Pointer Date. Oris was making similar two-tone dials before wristwatches had become the universally accepted way to tell the time. The first instances of the Bullseye dial can be traced back to pocket watches that the brand produced throughout the 1910s. This dial layout was later translated for watches wrist side, and reached peak popularity throughout the mid-20th century. As the years went on, Oris would return to the dial style with slight tweaks, sometimes throwing a running seconds counter into the mix. But, as I’ve alluded to before, the late 90s marked the end of the Bullseye era as the brand shifted its attention to newer, more contemporary styles and aesthetics. A common tale in the lifecycle of watches, the Bullseye dial was relegated to the design archives, where I imagine they collect dust, and lie waiting for someone to brush them off, and revamp them for a new era. Today marks such an occasion. 

[toc-section heading="The Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye"] 

The real novelty of this piece here is the return of the Bullseye dial, so if you have any previous knowledge of the Big Crown Pointer Date, the case will feel quite familiar. This piece uses the 38mm size as its canvas, which is slightly scaled down compared to the 40mm. This is definitely helpful from a comfort standpoint because of the big crown of it all, and is the more versatile option for more wrist sizes. I think going for a little smaller also feels spiritually aligned with the vintage-inspired aesthetics of it all. The case architecture is unchanged, including the fluted bezel, which adds a touch of sophistication and also serves as a nod to its aviation-inspired roots. This fluting is often referred to by the brand as “engine turned,” as it's intended to mimic the radial groove texture often used as a decorative technique on jet engine parts. 

Instead of going for a more sporty, integrated bracelet style, the new Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye is paired with a smooth, Cervo Volante leather strap, which is made from sustainably sourced deer leather in Switzerland. Given just how mid-century this watch looks, this feels like a touch that honors the piece, rather than distracts from it. I also think there’s a cool visual effect as your eye moves from the black portion of the dial, then to the case, and back to black with the strap.

Now onto the star of the show. At the risk of being redundant, this dial, once again, breathes new life into an old classic from Oris, and from watch design at large. Sector-style dials were extremely popular throughout the Art Deco era and through the mid-20th century. But though it's a nod to the past, the execution of the Bullseye dial feels very sleek and cohesive, not dated and out of place, which is always the risk when you’re operating in the realm of vintage revivals.

The black and cream color combination is accented with bright pops of red, and, like in all smart designs, these visual distinctions have the effect of making reading the time and date even more intuitive. Around the edge of the dial, we have the cream section, paired with a printed date scale in red, which is complemented by the red arrow tip on the dedicated pointer date hand. Just beneath that, we’ve got the black printed minute scale, which utilizes graphic triangles to correspond with the hours, and two solid squares just above the twelve o’clock mark. In the next bullseye sector, we have the black concentric circle adorned with the oversized Arabic numerals in a silver hue that matches the handset. The cream bullseye is right at the dial’s center, which features the branding and collection details printed in black to tie everything together. The silver, luminous hour and minutes hands are done in the cathedral style, that’s another quirk of the collection. 

In the movement department, we’re also working with the staple of the 38mm Big Crown Pointer Date: the Oris Caliber 754. This movement utilizes the workhorse SW200-1 Sellita movement as its base, and is modified to include the titular pointer date functionality. This automatic caliber runs on 26 jewels with a 4 Hz frequency, and has a 41-hour power reserve. 

[toc-section heading="First Impressions"] 

You can count on Oris to release something that is chock-full of personality, and the Big Crown Pointer Date Bullseye delivers it in heaping portions, while still remaining visually harmonious, easily legible, and without being over the top or overwhelming. I myself am quite keen on a sector dial, so this definitely appeals to my own stylistic sensibilities. It’s also a style we’re not seeing a ton of recently, especially at this price point. It seems that most watch brands are doubling down on the restrained versatility of the everyday carry, often at the expense of fun. But that isn’t to say this watch isn’t versatile. Much of the visual interest is coming in through the geometry of the dial itself, rather than through loud colors. The strap pairing does make the watch lean more dressy for me, but especially given some time to let the leather get buttery soft, I don’t see any reason this couldn’t be a grab-and-go watch. Given that its 50 meters of water resistance isn’t exactly robust, that can be a little limiting. But this watch isn’t pretending to be a sports watch by any stretch of the imagination, so I don’t really see that factor as an issue. 

[toc-section heading="Pricing"] 

The Oris Big Crown Pointer Date “Bullseye” is available now, and priced at $2,350. There will be no scrambling necessary as this isn’t a limited edition, but it is going to be a regular cast member of the larger collection. You can learn more at oris.ch