Hands-On With The Hermès Cut Collection

Over the past few years, Hermès, which is most known by the general public as the luxury powerhouse behind the world’s most iconic (and most investment-worthy) bag, The Birkin, has invested concerted energy into its contemporary horology department. At Watches & Wonders 2024, Hermès turned its watchmaking prowess towards a different audience, releasing its first sports watch collection explicitly designed for women – complete with an in-house manufactured mechanical movement, no less: The Hermès Cut.

At its sportiest expression, the Hermès Cut is paired with a metal bracelet either in two-toned or all-steel to complement its case. Hermès has been known to incorporate touches of “H” in ways both subtle and plainly obvious, and the H-shaped links of the bracelet tie in that quirk of the brand’s identity. Upon first glance, these bracelets might appear to be integrated with the case, but this is thanks to the impressively short lugs that blend in seamlessly. Each bracelet can be changed sans tools and easily snaps off with the push of a button. There are several colorful rubber straps to choose from for added stylistic versatility, including an option in signature Hermès orange.

The complete Hermès Cut collection currently consists of four distinct pieces: a steel model with or without a diamond-set bezel, and a two-tone steel and rose gold model, again, with or without diamond settings, all measuring a versatile 36mm in diameter. While even the brand describes its Cut watch as “circular,” playing with geometric shapes is taken very seriously here. While from a distance it looks to be perfectly round at first glance, the case shape displays various straight lines — which we might even refer to, fittingly, as cuts — around the flank and sports a mixing of satin and polished finishing techniques. Like nothing in nature is perfectly straight or round, the Hermès Cut brings in an organic touch to form. 

The Cut is currently the only piece in the brand’s “Women’s Watch” offerings other than the dressy Arceau that uses automatic mechanical movements. So, it’s kind of (very much) a big deal. At first glance, the Cut collection does feel familiar to the brand’s similarly sporty H08 line, which makes sense, given that both model families have been designed from the ground up by the brand’s Creative Director of Horology, Philippe Delhotal. But these two lines are siblings, not twins. This familial connection is most clear when it comes to the similarity of the Arabic numeral typeface (also designed by Delhotal) – though I would argue that the H08 feels more intentionally funky, whereas the Cut is more pleasantly simplistic and timeless – and also in the circular minutes track under the hour markers. 

The great strength of the Cut as a collection is the aforementioned simplicity. As I’m sure we’re already well aware of when it comes to the design world, making a product or piece that appears effortless is, ironically, very effortful. I mean, how many times have we all seen a perfectly good watch ruined by an ill-fitting date window, a font that feels too large or unnecessary, or other equally tiny details? The overall impression of the Cut collection is streamlined and legible but not without its own unique flavor of quirkiness. For example, the crown at one-thirty, which oddly, I love. The branded logo under twelve o’clock doesn’t read as oversized or too in-your-face to me, and the only script other than the numerals marking the hours is the prescriptive “Swiss Made” text that straddles the six. 

As for the movement within, each Hermès Cut model is equipped with Hermès manufacture movement H1912, an automatic mechanical caliber with a power reserve of 50 hours. The finishing on the movement is fairly detailed and features a unique geometric pattern as well as the brand logo on the balance — all of which is visible thanks to the exhibition caseback in sapphire crystal. Given that this is a sports-oriented watch, the Cut is equipped with water resistance up to 100 meters. 

Temperature check on the shifting demands and tastes of women watch wearers: at least on the anecdotal level and personal-enthusiasm level, this collection has been well received. With Philippe Delhotal at the helm, Hermès’s modern horology identity is undergoing a seismic shift – away from its classic dressy hits in favor of forms that break the mold. This seems like a worthwhile path to take for a brand trying to redefine its perception, appeal to a new crowd, and, even among particularly picky watch enthusiasts, prove its horological chops. I don’t mean to sound like a vintage re-release nay-sayer, but there is something particularly exciting about a piece that on the design level, feels like it quite literally couldn’t exist at any other time other than the now. 

It must be mentioned that we’re working with luxury prices here. I am (unfortunately) well-versed in the comments circulating Reddit and the like along the lines of “for that money, I’d just buy a Rolex.” I find this commentary reductive, and, frankly, boring. I think this piece was made for people looking for something different, and likely, for those already initiated into the Hermès universe. I can imagine a customer stepping into a storefront to see the brand’s iconic bags, and then being led slightly off course by a retail associate “But have you seen our newest watch?”

Hermès Cut

Each model in the Cut line by Hermès is available now. Pricing starts at $7,350 for the steel model with steel bracelet.