Hands-On With Vacheron Constantin’s New Overseas In Pink Gold And Green Dials

For anyone not familiar with the Overseas, this is Vacheron Constantin’s integrated-bracelet sport watch that was introduced in 1996. Indeed, it arrived a few decades later than its peers, with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak debuting in 1972 and the Patek Philippe Nautilus coming soon after in 1976. This said, 1977 saw the release of the Vacheron Constantin 222, which was designed by the legendary Jörg Hysek and was something of an ancestor of the Overseas (in addition to being reissued in 2022 to nothing short of exuberant fanfare). The current generation of the Overseas debuted in 2016 and serves as the base for the models we see here.

When talking about watches that cost as much a BMW, factors like the interplay between case and dial aesthetics are not trivial. I say this because my knee-jerk reaction when I saw these was to ask, “So... are they going to come in steel at any point?” And while the design team at Vacheron may very well decide to do these green dials in a steel case at some point, it's very possible the result wouldn't quite elicit the same emotion as these pink-gold creations. The interplay of these colors makes for a deep luxurious warmth just as the steel watch with blue dial makes for a cooler, lighthearted style. The sunburst satin-brushed dial is finished with an application of translucent lacquer that makes for an impressively well-executed finish that is both textured and just glossy enough — without being a magnet for glare or reflection.

The classic time-and-date Overseas measures 41mm wide and 10.69mm thick in a case that weighs a substantial 204g (compared to 159g for the steel) making for precisely what a solid-gold, integrated-bracelet watch should feel like on the wrist. Well, in my opinion at least. Then again, I am one of those people drawn to the opposite ends of the watch weight spectrum: give me either full titanium or full gold. As for the movement, the watch is outfitted with the Caliber 5100, which bears the Geneva Seal and operates at 4 Hz with a 60-hour power reserve.

The dual-time model measures 41mm wide and 12mm thick with a case weight of 217g, compared to 168g in steel. The Caliber 5110 DT/2 shares basic specs with the base 5100 while boasting the all-important, independently adjustable hour hand and quickset date operated by the pusher at 4 o’clock.

Finally, there is the Chronograph, which has a bigger case, measuring 42.5mm wide and a comparatively decent case thickness of 12.67mm, that comes in at 232g compared to 180g in steel. The Caliber 5200/2 is a column-wheel chronograph that operates at 4Hz with a 52-hour power reserve.

All of these watches have the Geneva Seal, 150 meters of water resistance, and come with the very smart quick-change system allowing for easy swapping between the bracelet and the included leather and rubber straps. The pink-gold- with-green-dial Vacheron Constantin Overseas time and date (Ref. 4520V/210R-B967) is priced at $60,500, the dual-time (Ref. 7920V/210R-B965) is priced at $75,500, and the chronograph (Ref. 5520V/210R-B966) is priced at $79,500.