Oris Closes Out its Divers Sixty-Five Collection with 60th Anniversary Edition

The dive-watch genre blossomed in the 1960s thanks to the emerging popularity of recreational diving, and to a diverse well of creative expression from manufactures new and old. A modern design language was finding its footing, and many brands helped to lay the foundations for generations to come. In 1965, Oris released its first dive watch, in a 36mm steel frame, with a distinctive dial design that placed the hour markers at the cardinal positions into large squares consisting of luminescent material. The design was unique to Oris, and to its era. In celebration of that watch’s 50th anniversary, Oris released a modern version, called the Divers Sixty-Five, in 2015, capturing the spirit of the original design in a new 40mm case, which would go on to spawn a collection of watches in the intervening years. This year, for the famous diver’s 60th anniversary, Oris is once again, one final time, returning to the design of the original: this time the 40mm steel case ditches the date, and gains a bracelet. 

Dive-watch enthusiasts can be a finicky bunch, so details like a millimeter here or there, and the placement (or even appearance) of a date window can have big consequences. Oris has done a wonderful job of creating a range of options within the modern Divers Sixty-Five collection, with a mix of sizes, materials, and complications. There’s an option for all tastes, it would seem. However, when it comes to the retro design from the ‘60s, Oris has stuck to the script as released in 2015. This week, we get our first glimpse at a new take on that formula with the 60th Anniversary Edition Divers Sixty-Five.

The newest Divers Sixty-Five is instantly recognizable, though a closer look reveals a plethora of small, but welcome, changes. First is the case, which is still sized at 40mm in diameter, and 12.8mm in thickness. The midcase feels trim, and the watch head sits neatly on the wrist without any drama or risk of overhang thanks to the 46mm lug-to-lug distance (a savings of 2mm over the 2015 release). Yes, a smaller diameter option more in line with the original would have been a welcome addition alongside the 40mm example, but the small changes to the proportions make a notable difference in aiding overall wearability.

The biggest changes come on the approach to the dial and bezel. Where the original had a single bezel piece that leaned into the ‘60s vibe, this watch gets a more traditional insert that’s been slightly redesigned. While still fully indexed, this bezel does a better job of pushing focus to the dial rather than competing with it. The distinctive hour markers cut out of lume blocks remain as charming as ever, and here, there’s no date to interrupt a good thing. This will no doubt be a dealbreaker for some, but I’m happy to see Oris take this route in creating a new precedent for the design that leaves some space for further iterations moving ahead.

The rest of the dial nails each of the small callback elements that drive home the feel of the original. This includes the text on the dial, which adds ‘Waterproof’ under the brand name, and the words ‘Anti-shock’ joining a jewel count at the bottom. These details, paired with the funky Arabic numeral design at the hour markers, elevate the theme as a whole and make it hard for this watch to not bring a smile to your face. 

Since the Divers Sixty-Five collection has flourished since the release of the 2015 throwback, Oris has developed a three-link bracelet that is fitted to this new 60th Anniversary Edition. A leather strap is also included, though I’d love to see the return of a tropic-style unit on offer as well. Thankfully, both options are fitted with quick-release spring bars, and a regular spring can be fitted to use any third party strap with a 20mm lug span.

Finally, what might be the biggest surprise here, even though it isn’t really a change at all, is the continued use of the Oris caliber 733 movement, the very same designation seen in the 2015 release. The Oris 733 is a base Sellita SW200, and not the brand’s manufacture Caliber 400, which would have perhaps felt like a more natural choice here. The benefit here is that the watch is priced in the same ballpark as its predecessor from 2015, particularly when factoring for inflation over that time — just $2,500. This should keep the 60th Anniversary Edition Divers Sixty-Five — according to Oris, the final release in this vintage-inspired series — more attainable to a broader audience, which is always a good thing.