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After a relatively quiet stretch for Seiko’s Prospex collection, we’re getting a trio of new dive-watch references making use of the brand’s 6R35 movement. These new divers take a slightly different approach than we’re used to seeing from Seiko, incorporating warm, gold, and beige tones into the palette, while utilizing one of the more peculiarly shaped bezels we’ve come across in the segment. The new references are the SPB481, SPB483, and SPB485, and they’re the latest expression of Seiko’s Prospex Divers design language that expands into new territory. The results are likely to raise a few eyebrows.
Seiko is referring to its latest divers watches as having “elegant design” that combines performance and “resort scene looks.” I think that provides a healthy context to the approach here, which deviates from Seiko’s established design ethos. That said, Seiko is no stranger to pushing the boundaries with its designs, which a back catalog that includes references like the 7a28-7000 (aka the Ripley), the SLQ011J1 Kinetic Sportura, and the SSBA018 (seriously, look that one up). But Seiko dive watches have always held a strong identity thanks to their consistency through the generations, from the “Tuna Can” and the “Monster,” to the more classic skin divers born of the 62MAS.
With that in mind, these new divers take a step in a new direction thanks to the incorporation of an octagonal bezel design framing more serene tones and textures. The combination is what lends to the “resort scene” aesthetic, I suspect, and will find a slightly different audience than from those who prefer more traditional Seiko designs. The dials of all three references have a horizontal wave pattern, though it’s more rigid than you might expect, and is set with large, boat-like hour markers. But the most eye-catching detail is undoubtedly the octagonal bezel assembly sitting atop a more traditional looking Samurai-style case that’s lost its angles.
The case itself measures 41.3mm in diameter, and 12.5mm in thickness, with a lug-to-lug distance of 48.2mm. Pretty standard numbers for a Seiko diver overall, and the shape of the case looks to be curved to the shape of the wrist ever so slightly, so this should do just fine in use. All three watches offer a robust 300 meter depth rating (these are still Seiko divers, after all) and are fitted to a three-link bracelet with a polished center link.
Overall, these new watches should perform like you’d expect, but there’s something else here that pushes the Prospex range into a slightly different direction. I suspect that the goal here is to attract a new subset of dive-watch enthusiasts looking for a more well-rounded experience that will fit into a more diverse selection of their wardrobe. There’s a casual yet luxurious vibe to these watches, which may or may not be your jam, but any time Seiko has strayed into new waters, it has gotten my attention, and this time it’s no different.
The Seiko Prospex Divers References SPB481 (beige/black), SPB483 (blue/blue), and SPB485 (bronze/brown) are each priced at $1,100 and are available now.
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I kinda like this. I like that Seiko is willing to take a few risks and not just make cookie cutter references that get lost in the crowd. I think this bezel shape will grow on me. I just hope that at this price point Seiko uses the 6L over the 6R movement.