Rolex 1908 Review: The Dress Watch For A New Generation

It’s easy to see Rolex exclusively as a sport watch brand, if even a luxury oriented one, thanks to collections that have helped to define their respective genres, such as the Submariner, the GMT-Master, the Explorer, and the Daytona. While they undoubtedly are just that, Rolex has another dimension to be discovered in more formal territory, and it’s a side we probably don’t see as often as we should, at least if their latest 1908 collection is anything to go by. Following the discontinuation of the Cellini collection in 2023, Rolex revealed its replacement in the 1908, sporting a familiar yet novel design language, and an entirely new movement in the caliber 7140. It was an immediate breath of fresh air, and a rare truly new release from the brand. 

[toc-section heading="Some Rolex Design History"]

Rolex has more than a century’s worth of design language to draw upon, and it would do exactly that with the design of the 1908. From the shape of the case, to the details of the bezel, and even the design of the hour numerals, the 1908 feels like a love letter to the history of Rolex. As a result, it’s a design that doesn’t feel entirely formal in nature, landing in a more versatile space than you might imagine, especially in the right spec. This is a watch that feels appropriate in a wide range of uses, from dressed to the nines in a suit and tie, all the way down to t-shirt and jeans affairs, this is a truly dynamic platform. 

From the first oyster style cases that made headlines swimming across the English channel in 1927, to the early Explorer dials that placed Arabic numerals at the cardinal positions, there are plenty of Rolex hallmarks carried through into the 1908. As much as tradition is baked into this design, it pulls off the feat of not feeling like an old design, an especially tricky balance to achieve for a time-only watch. As usual, the beauty is found in the details here, all of which work together to rise above the sum of its parts. 

[toc-section heading="The 1908 Case"]

Watches aiming for classic formal territory generally follow a few tropes that have become synonymous with the genre, one of which is a demure size with no or very slim bezel presence. The size of the dial goes a long way in our experience of how big a watch looks on our wrist, perhaps more so than even the diameter, so an all-dial watch at 38mm or even 36mm can still have plenty of presence. Rolex have gone with a 39mm case for the 1908, which actually feels slightly smaller than that thanks to the bezel proportions. 

Surrounding the dial we find a split bezel, the outer portion of which bears a familiar coin edge fluting, while the inner portion is polished. It’s not thick by any stretch, but it brings just enough visual intrigue in its own right to separate itself from the inner works of the dial. It serves to bring a layer of drama to the design at a glance, while also managing the total size of the dial enough to keep the watch comfortably within expectations as formal wear. The classic tapered lug and shapely case wall pull a lot of weight here as well, with a lug span of 20mm, and a lug to lug width of 47mm. Thickness is just 9.5mm, by the way, working in harmony with all of the numbers listed above, creating a net effect of a perfectly proportionate, and perfectly comfortable watch on the wrist. 

At Watches & Wonders 2025 edition, Rolex introduced a 1908 on a unique Settimo 7-link bracelet in yellow gold that brings an entirely new dimension to the design as a whole. This is a brick road style bracelet with small, interlocking blocks of uniform size and a seamless clasp creating a wonderful transition across its subtle taper. This is a truly beautiful bracelet visually, and one that does a superb job of dissipating the weight of the precious metal across the wrist. It’s a rare case when a bracelet can transcend the watch as a whole, but this one very nearly does exactly that. 

Obviously, a bracelet like this rendered entirely in yellow gold is a look in and unto itself, and pushes the 1908 into statement territory over the more demure stance of the leather strap it’s usually mounted to. The Settimo bracelet can be had with a light or dark dial, and since it can’t be had in a white metal (the 1908 can also be had in white gold or platinum), there’s something special about it, and believe me, pictures do it very little justice.

So the case and bracelet are very good, but what about the dial itself? Again, there’s a lot of detail to enjoy here, all without a single complication in sight. There is an old-school marine chronometer vibe with the 1908 thanks to the subsidiary running seconds placed at the six o’clock position and railroad track chapter ring at the dial’s perimeter. And of course, this is a Rolex Superlative Chronometer, meaning it will keep time to within +/- two seconds of accuracy per day, more on the movement later, though. 

[toc-section heading="The 1908 Dial"]

Each of the dial options are flat, and matte in texture, save for the platinum reference 52506, which features a guilloché rice-grain motif in light blue. The 1908 Settimo, however, follows the original script closely. Long applied hour markers stretch into the dial, split down the center with polishing on both sides. Applied precious metal Arabic numerals appear at three, six, and 12 o’clock, and while their font feels familiar in the context of Rolex history, it doesn’t feel throwback in nature. It lands in a beautiful modern midpoint, with an open nine bringing a welcome bit of personality to the situation. 

Finally, the hands bring the final piece of the puzzle. The minute hand is a thin broadsword design, while the hour hand gets a large open aperture at its tip in the space you’d usually find the ‘Mercedes’ logo on their sportier watches. The hands bring their own character to the design, and add another wrinkle to the expected. The hands are dimensional in nature and polished on all sides. 

All told, while the details are all well crafted, there is something of an approachable quality to the dial as a whole. It doesn’t scream ‘formal’ and it really helps to keep the watch in a neutral space that lends to its overall versatility. Sure, the bracelet or strap choice will push it one way or another, but the dial on its own feels like something entirely unique, and not one that easily conforms to a set genre. It is a big part of what sets this watch apart from something like a reference 6119 from Patek Philippe, for instance. 

[toc-section heading="Caliber 7140 Movement"]

As good as the case, bracelet, and dial are, they represent only half of the story with the 1908. Rolex used this collection to introduce a new movement in the caliber 7140, and it’s a base we’ve already seen evolve within the new Land-Dweller introduced just this year. Rolex generally isn’t a brand top of mind when considering movement aesthetics and finishing, but with the use of exhibition casebacks across the 1908 family, it’s something they’ve managed to pull off, but only just. 

This is a Rolex, and the movement does have something of a utilitarian quality to it, but the finishing and an open gold oscillating weight make it worthy of being shown in the context of a watch such as this. Efficiency is the name of the game with this movement, which, as usual, was designed, developed, and produced entirely in-house. Measuring a hair over 4mm in thickness, the 7140 provides 66 hours of reserve, and features five patents filed by Rolex. 

The Chronergy escapement (which is effectively an optimized Swiss lever design) hosts a silicon Syloxi hairspring designed with a patented geometry, which sits under Paraflex shock absorbers held in place by a full balance bridge. These are the components that will stand out when viewing the movement, largely thanks to the purplish tab shape at the top of the hairspring. The base of this movement also hosts the Rolex Dynapulse escapement within the Land-Dweller, and I suspect that it’s only a matter of time before we see that branch into collections such as the 1908. 

[toc-section heading="Final Thoughts and Pricing"]

This also means the framework for complications is there, potentially opening the doors for additional 1908 variations, such as a full calendar or moonphase. There’s no question that this watch has great bones, and could easily be pushed in a variety of directions to spread its wings. Rolex moves at a slow and methodical pace, though, so don’t expect them to rush anything of that nature. 

As a whole, the 1908 is a truly special experience on the wrist, especially with the Settimo bracelet in tow. It doesn’t conform to the expected genre tropes, and feels all the more uniquely Rolex as a result. The design explores new ground, all while honoring the brand’s storied past. It also remains largely accessible, in Rolex terms, at least, and could easily be incorporated into a one or two watch collection. The 1908 isn’t a retread of Rolex history, but it does honor it. This is a balance Rolex have mastered in recent years, while continuing to look forward and set a foundation for the coming century without compromising the pieces already in place. The 1908 collection is a perfect reflection of that philosophy. 

As for price, the Rolex 1908 starts at $26,600 in white gold on leather strap, $31,500 in platinum on leather strap, and $35,900 for the solid yellow gold on Settimo bracelet. You can learn more at rolex.com