Doxa SUB GMT Returns With New 250T In Nine Dial Colors

Doxa is bringing a GMT complication back to the SUB collection for the first time in nearly 20 years with the introduction of a new collection called the 250T GMT. Doxa has been at the forefront of the dive-watch genre since the 1960s, and the brand has managed to preserve its unique DNA within the modern SUB collection, which includes an innovative take on adding complications without compromising the core strengths. The new 250T GMT collection consists of nine largely familiar colorways, and features a reworked design from the last time we saw a SUB GMT watch, back in 2006 — this time in a much more approachable package. 

The idea of a GMT dive watch is nothing new, and Doxa has never been shy about including potentially useful complications within its distinctive dive-watch frame, with watches like the chronograph-equipped T.Graph appearing by the late 1960s. The trick, as usual, is in the execution. Doxa’s SUB collection of divers has always been defined by the model’s unique shape and bright, highly legible dial, and these have always remained core features regardless of colorway or complexity. It’s no different with the 250T GMT. 

In 2006, Doxa released the SUB 750T GMT, a 45mm diver with dual crowns, a rotating inner bezel, and a hollow 24-hour hand in the same shape as the minute hand. It is this design that Doxa has refined and brought into a 40mm form factor with the 250T GMT. It comes as no surprise, then, at just how mature this watch feels right out of the gates, in any of the nine dial options available. 

Doxa has a track record of working in bright color palettes, and we see many familiar names appear in the 250T GMT lineup. From classics like the Searambler (silver) and Professional (orange), to more recent additions such as Aquamarine (turquoise) Sea Emerald (green). In addition to these, Doxa is also revealing its first gradient dial with a vintage take on the black Sharkunter dial, which transitions from light to dark radially. This edition is meant as a nod to the SUB’s rich history, and it also uses a slightly different 24 hour hand with a red triangle tip. 

The new 250T GMT is built in the brand’s excellent 40mm cushion case that thins out at the flanks for a great on-wrist experience. Even with the inclusion of a GMT complication, via the Sellita SW330 movement inside, the total thickness remains under 11mm. It’s worth noting that this is a caller-style GMT, so the 24-hour hand is independently adjustable. The hollow 24-hour hand tracks against a subtle bicolor ring at the dial’s perimeter. The total effect of all this is a watch that could easily be mistaken for a regular SUB 200T at a glance, which is a very good thing. 

The 250T GMT collection is available now directly from Doxa, and includes the following colorways: Professional (iconic Doxa Orange); Searambler (Sunburst Silver); Sharkhunter (Deep Black); Caribbean (Navy Blue); Divingstar (Vibrant Yellow); Aquamarine (Crystal Turquoise); Whitepearl (Pure White); Sea Emerald (Sunburst Green); and finally, vintage Sharkhunter. Each is available on a beads-of-rice-style bracelet, or an FKM rubber strap. Whichever you decide on, Doxa will sell you the other separately. Pricing begins at $2,450 on a rubber strap, and rises to $2,490 on the steel bracelet.