This $3,200 Chinese Watch Could Be The Best Value In Watchmaking

On December 26, Sea-Gull watch company celebrated its 70th anniversary with a new product presentation in Tianjin, China. At this launch, the brand released four new watches, including an astronomical calendar tourbillon, a minute-repeater automaton, and a triple-complication piece with a tourbillon, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater. However, it was the simplest and most humble release that has grabbed my attention and will likely make a splash throughout the industry: the Sea-Gull Split-Second Chronograph, aka Rattrapante watch.

Mechanical rattrapante (aka split-seconds) chronographs have long been among the most complicated and difficult to produce complications out there. For some time the Habring² Doppel-Felix has been considered one of the better deals out there for a mechanical rattrapante, with a price just shy of $10,000. A big reason for this has to do with the fact that brand co-founder Richard Habring actually designed the reconfigured Valjoux 7750 movement which was re-specced as a split-seconds chronograph for the IWC Doppelchronograph in 1993. Once the patent expired in 2012, he was able to create his own version of the movement. Beyond these 7750-based rattrapantes, there are some in-house calibers from brands that start in the mid-to-high five figures and easily go into six figures.

Well, something changed recently, and it’s not from who I expected. Sea-Gull, the Chinese brand known for its inexpensive movements, recently decided it would dramatically cut down its production of movements for third-party manufacturers (with some reporting that their minimum per order is a whopping 10,000 movements). Now in a decidedly upmarket move, we see the release of the Sea-Gull Rattrapante Ref. 418.13.1077, the very first rattrapante made in China. It also undercuts every other Rattrapante out there, with a price of $3,200. 

The Sea-Gull Rattrapante uses the ST1961 movement, which is based on its ST19. I know what you’re thinking and, yes, the base ST19 is a relatively cheap movement — one you’ve seen in the cult-classic Seagull 1963, which goes for literally a couple of hundred bucks. While it’s hard for me to judge the new ST1961 movement without handling it and with no long-term consumer testimonials, it’s equally difficult to underestimate the watchmaking prowess it would take to create a new rattrapante movement. Sea-Gull is being cautious here also, with a limited-edition run of just 500 pieces. Still, there are some hand-finished touches here, like Geneva stripes and what I believe to be some hand beveling on the bridges. The ST1961 has 27 jewels and a 45-hour power reserve. Again, it’s difficult to make any judgments beyond specs and images but wow, do I want to handle this watch. For a closer hands-on look at the movement, here is the link to an image shared by Instagram user @limisiong.

Adding to the value proposition is the fact that the 42.5mm wide and 12mm thick (50 meters of water resistance) case is made from titanium. Beneath the AR-coated sapphire crystal is a very traditional dial layout with applied hour numerals and Sea-Gull logo. Also, the leaf-shaped hands are flame-blued, which is an appreciated touch. Finally, the watch comes on a black alligator leather strap with a titanium alloy clasp on the pin buckle. The Sea-Gull Rattrapante Ref. 418.13.1077 is limited to 500 pieces with a price of 23,800 CNY or about $3,260.

For more information about Sea-Gull, head over to the official website at seagullwatches.com. You can learn more about the Rattrapante, and order it with an anticipated delivery of February 2025, at chinawatchshop.com.

Special thanks to @chinesewatchclub for sharing resources about this watch.