Hands-On: Moser's Pioneer Retrograde Seconds Is a Dose Of What Indie Watches Need

Moser knows how to get even the most jaded watch nerds excited about a new release. Recently, it launched the H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde seconds, a casual sport watch with a fun horological twist. Retrograde seconds displays are nothing new but Moser partnered with movement manufacture Agenhor to create a 30-seconds retrograde display which is just faster (and therefore scientifically cooler) than a typical 60-second one-minute counter. I love when a brand can add creative watchmaking and engineering to a time-only piece without putting it in a different pricing stratosphere, and that’s exactly what the Moser Pioneer Retrograde Seconds manages to achieve.

It’s worth mentioning that Moser’s family-owned parent company MELB took a minority stake in Agenhor last year, so you can expect even more innovative or just plain creative watchmaking coming from the brand in the future. Moser has always been in a strong position for an independent brand with such limited production numbers due to vertical integration: MELB also owns Precision Engineering AG, which produces vital components like hairsprings and balance wheels for brands like MB&F and Kari Voutilainen.

While the Pioneer is Moser’s entry-level sports watch, there are iterations that house some of the most high-end complications, like a tourbillon, one of the most truly incredible being the Cylindrical Tourbillon Skeleton. The standard Pioneer Centre Seconds got an updated and smaller 40mm case a few years ago but this Retrograde Seconds requires a bit more space, coming in at 42.8mm wide and 14.2mm thick with 120 m of water resistance. The steel case is really nicely done with both brushed and polished finishes and four recessed areas along the lugs that have some really nicely done coining for some extra flair. The trade off between the larger case size and the appeal of the mechanically captivating yet frivolous (not derogatory) retrograde display is really a matter of taste. I can say, however, that once you see it in action it’ll be difficult to imagine the Pioneer without this fun addition.

The new HMC 201 movement adds a module for the retrograde seconds onto the existing HMC 250 automatic movement which operates at 3Hz and has a 72-hour power reserve. This module is where the watchmaking ingenuity of Agenhor comes in as they have experience in creating far more complicated retrograde functions for the likes of Parmigiani, Hermès, and Harry Winston. The HMC 250 is beautifully finished with a skeletonized rotor, anthracite bridges, and double-crested Moser stripes throughout.

The Midnight Blue fumé dial is a rich blue at the center which gets darker as it radiates to the outer edge which is now a classic Moser touch. The brand logo is done in a transparent lacquer which is really one of the coolest signatures from any brand out there today. Moser used to do these “concept dial” watches with no logo at all which is something I personally am a huge fan of but I understand mainstream buyers of five-figure watches want at least some semblance of branding. This approach is great because it adds another level of depth of finishing while not interfering with the stunning fumé on the upper half of the dial. The hands are nice and legible with plenty of lime as well. 

The retrograde display is substantial and takes up almost a full quarter of the dial. The retrograde seconds hand quickly snaps back into place every 30 seconds. Of course, chronometry and accuracy are still paramount so the two-tone disc under the double snail cam is used to display whether you are in the first or second half of the minute. This 30-second retrograde is a dramatic and genuinely creative display of watchmaking. It is refreshing to have a horological novelty not from the usual list of complication add-ons that can be had by your pick of dozens of brands. 

The H. Moser & Cie Pioneer Retrograde Seconds comes on a matching blue strap and is priced at $21,900 which is about a $6,000 premium over the standard Pioneer. While that is not a negligible price delta, the quality and creativity on display makes for a truly compelling offering for buyers who want something independent that’s actually sporty and wearable. I also must admit that it is nice to see new life being breathed into non-integrated bracelet sport watches as I feel this segment has been sorely neglected for nearly a decade now. You can learn more at h-moser.com