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The original watch that inspired the SNJ025 was the 1982 release, the H558-5000, and was Seiko’s first dive watch with an integrated digital display and audible alarm complications. Given the two part case, smaller than you’d expect 40mm bezel diameter, the sloping nature of the plastic shroud, and a rather condensed lug-to-lug given the diameter, the watch wears smaller than the dimensions suggest. Despite the amount of information offered, the dial is surprisingly clean, highlighted, perhaps, by the large lumed markers.
Specification: Price: $595, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 12.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Automatic Miyota 8204, Power Reserve: 40 Hours, Crystal: Sapphire
Deriving its nickname from the Japanese word for a puffer fish — a reference to the distinctively grooved shape of the rotating divers’ bezel — the “Fugu” model from Citizen’s diverse Promaster Diver family originally debuted in 1989 and was revived for modern audiences in 2018. The hefty steel case (44mm) features a textured screw-down at the unusual position of 8 o’clock, which prevents it from poking into the small of a diver’s wrist. The hands and hour indexes are thick and brightly lumed for underwater legibility; at 3 o’clock, the hour marker gives way to a day-date window with an eye-catching bicolor design (red print for the day, black for the date). Behind a caseback engraved with an illustration of a puffer fish is the automatic movement, the Japanese Miyota 8204.
Specifications: Versions: Blue Dial, Black Dial, PVD Black; Case Size: 39 mm; Case Height: 11.9 mm; Movement: Automatic Miyota 9039; Price: €650 (~ $730);
Baltic made a big splash this year for more than one reason, catching the attention of the collecting community with a huge OnlyWatch result, while also releasing one of the better values for a compressor-style dive watch, equipped with a non-screwdown 2 o’clock crown for easy engagement underwater. Three initial options are available for this brand new model. The movement is identical between Aquascaphe options with the rock solid Miyota 9039.
Reference: NB6004-08E; Case Size: 46 mm; Case Height: 15.3 mm; Lug-to-Lug: 51 mm, Movement: Automatic Citizen Cal. 9051; Price: $1050;
The wildly popular Citizen Promaster collection added a mechanical diver in the form of a 46mm titanium case with the reference NA6004-08E this year. It’s a big move that should keep Citizen fans happy while potentially bringing some new eyeballs to the collection who enjoy such mechanical timekeepers. A new movement is debuting in this model as well, the in-house Caliber 9051. As the name also suggests, underwater abilities up to 20bars/200m is possible and all of that dial lume should keep the NA6004 well lit in the dark.
Oris debuted the in-house Caliber 400 in its best-selling Aquis lineup in 2021 across several different case sizes, including perhaps the most well proportioned 41.5mm version. Visually, not much has changed from the previous generation, which is smart as the design is both a signature for the brand and generally good looking. A step up in price positions the brand to take on Tudor more directly, and it's a competition we welcome. The new movement offers 120 hours of power reserve and is backed by a comprehensive 10-year warranty after online registration of the timepiece.
Rumors swirled in late summer 2021 among Tudor enthusiasts of a new Pelagos with ties to the French Marine Nationale, after an Instagram post by famed brand ambassador David Beckham posted a teaser in his stories and a dealer posted a military-issued version of this previously unknown model. Fast forward a few months and here we have the 42m Pelagos FXD with its fixed lugs and the pass-through NATO attachment. The MT5602 movement offers a high level of performance with rugged capabilities.
Specification: Price: $9,450, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 13.1mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 899, Crystal: Sapphire
Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the original Memovox Polaris in 1968 as the first diver’s watch outfitted with a mechanical alarm function. Its successor, introduced in 2018 and called simply the Polaris, leaves out the alarm but retains other notable elements from the original, including the case’s dual crowns, one of which is used to operate a rotating inner bezel. The dial of the most recent model consists of three concentric circles with contrasting finishes: sunray in the center, graining on the outer circle with its vintage-inspired Arabic numerals, and opaline for the rotating inner rotating bezel flange — and dazzles the eye with its lacquered, deep green double-gradient finish. Ticking inside the 42mm stainless steel case is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s self-winding manufacture Caliber 899, which bestows the watch a respectable 70-hour power reserve.
Specification: Price: $10,500 - $25,200, Case Size: 43.6mm, Case Thickness: 13mm, Lug Width: 23mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Automatic Caliber 1315
The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe is named for the undersea vehicle invented by Auguste Piccard that was launched in 1953, the same year the first Fifty Fathoms debuted. This more vintage-oriented version of the iconic Fifty Fathoms is smaller (43.6mm) and takes its cues from models of the later 1950s, with the same distinctive handset, 4:30 date window, simple geometric hour markers, and luminous dot on the bezel for orientation, a detail originally requested by the French military. The unidirectional dive-scale bezel uses Liquidmetal, an amorphous metal alloy that bonds with the ceramic insert to enhance its scratch resistance; inside the 300-meter water resistant case is the ultra-modern Caliber 1315, among whose technical attributes is an uncommonly long 120-hour power reserve.
Tissot's most ruggedly attractive dive watch to date entices deep-sea enthusiasts with its integrated helium release valve at 9 o’clock, unidirectional dive-scale bezel with engraved ceramic insert, and its most eye-catching element, a turquoise-blue gradient dial with a maritime-inspired, engraved wave motif The watch’s 46-mm stainless steel case is water-resistant to a very "professional" 600 meters and has an imposing wrist presence, at 16.25 mm thick, with a large screw-down crown and its guards. The date appears in a metallic framed window at 6 o’clock. Tissot has installed one of its most high-end movements inside the Seastar Professional 2000 — the Swatch Group-exclusive Powermatic 80, which is based on the standard ETA 2824 but as per its name boasts an increased power reserve of 80 hours, thanks mainly to a clever reduction of its balance frequency, from 28,800 to 21,600 vph.
Specifications: Price: $1,870, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 14.45mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 600m, Movement: Automatic Titoni T110, Power Reserve: 72 Hours, Crystal: Sapphire
Originally released in the 1960s under the brand name Felca (Titoni’s parent firm), the Seascoper was one of the first popular models for recreational divers. The modern version matches a stainless steel case with a unidirectional rotating bezel made of ceramic and bearing an eye-catching red sector for the first 15 minutes of the dive scale. Also equipped with a helium release valve, the case’s 600-meter water resistance is ensured by a special gasket system. The automatic movement inside, behind a porthole-shaped sapphire caseback window, is Titoni’s own Caliber T110, a COSC-certified chronometer.
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How come no Longines Hydroconquest !?
Should have definitely been on the list… I own one and it’s great! Gives the much more expensive Tudor Black Bay a run for its money.
Maybe add a Ball to the list? Tritium tubes are really nice. I really enjoy the Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer!
I swear I looked at the list! Thanks for having a Ball on there!
Might want to consider adding one of the Helm diving watches. 300M ISO certified.
Excellent compilation. One item of note – you list some specs of the Longines Legend 42mm under the entry for the 36mm version.
Great article! One correction. The Omega 300 dimensions are incorrect. The older version is 14.5mm thick. The one pictured here is 13.7mm.
I don’t see the Mido Oceanstar 200 series here. Any reason why thay did not make the cut?
Where’s the heck is Mido?
Love my Seiko SPB143 except for the garbage movement. Watch is 1 year old and runs 35 seconds slow per day. Sent to Seiko for warranty repair and they made up excuses to dodge repairing it under warranty because the AD didn’t completely fill out the warranty card. Will never buy another Seiko product again
Shouldn’t the orient kamasu be on this list?
Teddy thanks for all your video’s and the information, only one cuestión: in you expert opinion
Tudor or Omega sea-master has a better reputation?
I see and read every video love it
Thank you 👋🏻
No Mido, Teddy?
The Diver 300M has a 300M water resistance not 200M. Also on Rolex “While it is obviously overexposed and at the some time near unobtainable lately,..” it’s same time not some time.
Great video and very informative article!
How about having a look at the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster “Pac-Man” Re-Edition?
The IWC Aquatimer is one of the best diving watches. It should have been included in your list.
Moreover, it’s history (design created by Ferdinand Porsche who designed the 911), quality and finish make it a fantastic watch. For instance check the current version with a blue dial.
No Omega Planet Ocean?? If you’re gonna have 2 Omegas on this list, I’d say it should be the Seamaster 300 Diver and the Planet Ocean.
Hello, have you ever reviewed the Gevril Wall Street divers watch?
Hi, i have seen online that seiko has bad quality control with inaccuracy of their automatic movement and build quality to a certain extend. Kindly comment as I plan to buy a Seiko Presage or Seiko 5 soon.
Casio Duro (MDV106 or MDV107) should be on the list.
Another wonderful review. Really pleased to see you included the Titoni. I think it is a fantastic value. It has however increased in price from the $1,870 (which I paid) to now a bit above 2K.
Great blog!
The Mühle Glashütte ProMare Go is absolutely stunning…what caught my eye was the work on the strap that matched the case and dial….well taught out from A to Z…at 42mm perfect for any size wrist….bravo