Short on Time
Our editors might still be reorienting themselves to their local timezone after being on Geneva time the past week, but the challenges of Watches & Wonders Editors' Picks must continue while the show is fresh in their minds. For this edition, we tasked our editors with selecting the watch complication that has stuck with them most from this year's lineup. From the sophisticated to the decidedly playful, down below, you'll find the watch complications that have risen above the pack, as decided by our editorial team. Explore our full editorial coverage of this year's show here.
D.C. Hannay: Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronometre Perpetual Calendar

Another luxury watch pick, another slam dunk for Jaeger-LeCoultre. Whichever way the wind is blowing in the Vallée de Joux, it’s been doing wonders for JLC of late, exemplified by the new Master Control Chronometre series. The brand has finally gone and made a modern, real-deal integrated luxury model, and enthusiasts are pricking up their ears. Along with the sleek Chronometre Date and the symmetrically gifted Chronometre Date Power Reserve, they’ve come up with a truly breathtaking riff on one of the most complicated complications, the Chronometre Perpetual Calendar.
Absent of the hype surrounding the Royal Oak or the Nautilus, we’re presented with a beautifully balanced dial and cohesive design, packaged in a startlingly svelte 39mm case just 9.2mm thin. Also available in a glowing pink gold with a complementary bronze colored dial, the steel version is my poison of choice. Not quite gray, the cool blue tone of this gradient sunray dial has no need to show off with overbaked textures or factory jewels, such is its quiet confidence. The reserved demeanor is only interrupted by the coy flash of glitz seen in the moonphase display for a brief time each month, in the form of the platinum-leaf moon peeking out to say hello. The slinky bracelet is another highlight, a subtle masterclass in design with just the right amount of exquisitely finished gleam. And being the “watchmaker of watchmakers”, JLC’s movement prowess is unparalleled, both lovely to look at, and tested to their High Precision Guarantee standard that exceeds COSC certification. Jaeger-LeCoultre has really taken its time in getting the Master Control Chronometre model family just right, and in my estimation, it was worth the wait.
Erin Wilborn: Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux

When it comes to watch complications, the most spectacular, intricate, and even ostentatious mechanical feats tend to draw the attention of us watch journalists like a moth to flame. But on the flip side of that equation, I have found myself continuously gravitating towards complications that make their presence less obvious, that leave something to the imagination, that delight through surprise. Parmigiani Fleurier’s newly introduced Tonda PF Chronographe Mystérieux stands as a perfect example of this approach.
The brand has embarked on a continuous journey into reimaging the most classic complications in watchmaking, distilling them into their most elegant and minimalistic expression with pieces like the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante. With this watch, the brand has managed to create a functional chronograph that looks nothing like a chronograph. No subdials, no explicit nods to motorsport roots, and no smattering of scales and timers and visual business. What appears to be a regular, time-only member of the Tonda PF family reveals its capabilities to its user with the push of a button, uncovering a cleverly hidden rose gold handset that keeps track of the user’s time as the silvered hands jump into chronograph action. On the third press, everything snaps back to business as usual. The intricate coordination and ease of use are achieved thanks to the in-house Caliber PF053. Essentially, this is the watch for those who typically find chronographs too visually overstimulating.
Mark Bernardo: Rolex Yacht-Master II

Rolex introduced the Yacht-Master II, equipped with an on-theme regatta countdown chronograph function, in 2007 and discontinued it in 2024. It was intended as an extension of the original, more successful Yacht-Master launched in 1992, but despite the fact that the Yacht-Master II was the only chronograph in Rolex’s lineup other than the increasingly hard-to-get Daytona, the model never really caught fire with collectors. A reason for this, Rolex probably figured, was that the chronograph-equipped sequel had an entirely different look than the three-handed original (which in truth adopted a look very similar to the megapopular Submariner that preceded and inspired it).
With the newest version of the Yacht-Master II, Rolex updates the dial to a more streamlined architecture, moving the regatta countdown scale to the flange from its previous prominent position on the main dial and adopting the handset and geometrical hour markers of the core Yacht-Master model. The Crown also upgraded on the inside, equipping the watch with the new Caliber 4162, an evolution of the predecessors’ Caliber 4161 that enables the countdown function to be entirely operated by two winch-shaped pushers on the side of the case; also, for the first time on this model, the hands used to count down the time before the start of a regatta move counterclockwise, toward the zero position at 12 o’clock on the flange, for a more intuitive display. The bidirectional rotating bezel, with its 60-minute Cerachrom scale, can be used to measure time intervals during a race or to count down the final 30 seconds before a start. Perhaps more so than even its predecessor, the new Yacht-Master II is a Rolex watch clearly designed as a tool for actual sailors rather than as simply wrist jewelry for wealthy boat owners.
Danny Milton: H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Pump

Power reserve indication is a complication, though not one of the most heralded or appreciated. This year, Moser created one of the most surprising watches of the fair as part of a broader collaboration with Reebok (yes, you read that right). If you’re a child of the ‘90s, you surely remember the “Pump,” which allowed you to pump an orange button to sort of inflate the tongue of your shoe. Well, Moser, always known to surprise and delight, has applied that idea to a watch with a pump affixed to the case, which allows you to literally pump the watch up – the effect of which adds power to the power reserve, which shows up via an indicator that gets more orange the more you pump. It’s a new watch, but also a nostalgic watch, and while this isn’t the kind of complication you think of when you think of complicated watches, I had to give this one some shine.
Jonathan McWhorter: IWC Perpetual ProSet

Personal tastes ebb and flow as we grow and learn. While I used to be a “time-only guy” (fortunately for my finances), I think I’ve started to enter my Perpetual Calendar era (unfortunately for my finances). This year at Watches & Wonders, we saw a couple of notable new PCs, but the one that I found the most intriguing is the ProSet from IWC. The Kurt Klaus perpetual calendar from IWC is already legendary with its ability to set the date via the crown, however there has always been some limitation regardless of a perpetual calendar. Given their fragility and complexity, what should be a very useful mechanical complication has been limited to high horology, and consequently, watch safes all around the world. Now, I feel like the halo-complication is truly something that can be worn every day with actual usability and reliability.
The days of worry, anxiety, and sending mis-set watches to IWC for service are over with the ProSet. Now, the iconic calendar pilot’s watch can be set forward and backwards without worry. Further, the re-engineering of the mechanism also means more reliability when making adjustments, the calendar having been tested up to 6,000 C-RPMs (crown rotations per minute) without any desynchronization or failure of the components. Even still, none of this improvement comes at the cost of wearability; au contraire, the perpetual calendar is now available in a 42mm case, making this even more of an everyday piece than ever before.
Bilal Khan: A Lange & Söhne Saxonia Annual Calendar

The previous iteration of the Lange Saxonia Annual Calendar was by no means a large watch at 38.5mm, but this year’s reintroduction is quite possibly my personal favorite calendar watch of theirs to date. The sleek new 36mm wide and 9.8mm thick case looks drop-dead gorgeous in both the white and pink gold iterations, with the dial shining in either argenté or grey finished silver. The neatly arranged dial is easy to read and, of course, is crowned with that iconic oversized date display. The L207.1 movement is new as well, and while I miss the old micro rotor, this is undoubtedly a magnificently finished caliber worthy of the Lange name. Sure, the price exceeds $75,000, but you’re getting what you pay for.




































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