Watches & Wonders 2024: Tudor Black Bay Monochrome With METAS Caliber

Following on the coattails of last year's Watches and Wonders Tudor Black Bay Burgundy release, the brand unveils a new model leaning into a more monochromatic design language. While the Black Bay 54 may have stolen the show last year, and the Black Bay 58 GMT leading the charge for 2024, the meaningful updates made to the Black Bay Burgundy and now Monochrome can not be overlooked as it gives us a glimpse as to where the brand is headed in the future.

Not to be blown out of proportion, this model is essentially just a black version of last year's Burgundy release. At the time, we touted that model as the future of Tudor in our in-depth review (watch it here), noting that the slight change in silhouette, new five-link jubilee-style bracelet, new crown, Tudor T-fit clasp, toothier bezel, and of course Master Chronometer (METAS) certified in-house caliber marked a significant moment for the tentpole collection. Now, with an almost matte black dial and bezel combination backdropping clean silver accents, the Black Bay METAS is being aimed towards the mass market with a more subdued approach. 

Featuring no gilt whatsoever, the new design language brings a clean look to the Black Bay, establishing a new baseline for the core collection. The matte black, anodized aluminum bezel insert and black dial seem to blend in a cohesive unit to offer uniformity and excellent legibility. The silver-toned applied indices pop from the stark backdrop surrounding the all-important dial text. Opposing the Tudor Geneve word mark and logo at 12 o'clock are the water-resistance rating of 200 meters and proudly stated Master Chronometer text calling out the in-house caliber powering the watch. 

As previously called out, the slimmer Black Bay manages to house a significant upgrade within. The METAS-certified in-house automatic caliber MT5602-U brings reliable accuracy rigorously tested to the travel-ready package. Operating at 4Hz, or 28,800 vph, the MT5602-U achieves a healthy power reserve of 70 hours while offering anti-magnetism up to 15,000 gauss thanks in part to the silicon balance spring. The caliber is regulated to -2 to +4 seconds per day, surpassing the previous industry benchmark of COSC and achieving Master Chronometer certification, which sees the movement tested more rigorously than before. 

The dimensional refinement from the Black Bay Burgundy is carried over to this model along with a trio of bracelet and strap options. For the first time, we saw Tudor embrace the jubilee-style five-link bracelet on its dive collection last year. Here again, we see the well-finished and articulated bracelet fitted to the Black Bay Monochrome, equipped with the excellent Tudor T-fit milled clasp. The watch is also available on the more traditional riveted three-link bracelet or black rubber strap, both of which will lend easy adjustment thanks to the inclusion of the T-fit clasp. 

Perhaps the most notable change comes in the form of the new wearing dimensions. A constant complaint from enthusiasts who saw the potential of the previous Black Bay GMT was the large sizing dimensions that left the watch off the list of those with medium to smaller wrists. Now sporting the refined case diameter of the Black Bay 58, 39mm, the new Black Bay 58 GMT also went on a bit of a diet, dropping the overall case thickness. At 12.8mm thick with a lug-to-lug of 47.8mm, this new GMT brings about a wearing experience more similar to the original Black Bay 58 that ingratiates the model family with its core audience. It is safe to say that those who loved the design language of the previous generation Black Bay GMT but felt a bit sized out by the 41mm diameter and almost 15mm thickness will flock to this more mass-appealing approach.