Hermès H08: A Guide to the Maison's Signature Sports Watch

In recent years, skeptics have had to concede that, beyond the leather goods that the brand is most synonymous with, Hermès has some serious horology chops. While the brand had mostly leaned more on classic, dress-oriented watch designs, all of that changed with the introduction of the Hermès H08 in 2021. It was the ultimate mic-drop moment for the brand, catapulting it into the luxury sports watch category, with a sporty design language that felt fun and somewhat futuristic. Down below, we're breaking down a guide to the Hermès H08 collection, from the debut models to ones fresh off of Watches & Wonders 2026. 

Hermès refers to the H08 as an "all-terrain" timepiece, and that sentiment suddenly coalesces the moment you actually secure one to your wrist. The spirit of the collection will, no doubt, appeal to collectors who find the usual steel suspects a bit too samey. The case is a softened square, otherwise known as the “cushion” shape, while the dial elements within create a sort of friction between square and circular shapes. The typography of the Hermès H08 is also worth noting, since the dial numbers have been specifically chosen to mirror the geometry of the case itself (check out the 8 and 0 numerals on the hour tracks). It is this granular attention to detail that sets the H08 apart. 

It was the acquisition of a stake in the elite Vaucher Manufacture Fleurier that culminated in the release of the first Hermès H08 watch in 2021. The brand released three iterations, all sharing the same foundational dimensions: a 39mm cushion-shaped case that completely eschewed the chunky sports watch. The debut pieces were all driven by the H1837 manufacture automatic movement, offering a solid 50-hour power reserve and adorned with richly decorated elements and “H” motifs made visible through an exhibition caseback.

The first of these three debut models featured a satin-brushed titanium case offered on either a matching titanium bracelet, a supple rubber band, or a woven webbing strap. To this day, it probably represents the purest distillation of the H08 ethos. Alongside this, Hermès released a slightly more dramatic sibling, equipped with the exact same titanium base but with a mid-case adorned in a matte black Diamond-Like Carbon (DLC) coating. Leaving the brushed titanium bezel untreated cleverly gave it a moodier, more tool-like character, whereas the third release was altogether different. Here, Hermès shifted its material science capabilities up a gear, introducing a graphene-filled composite case with a sunburst satin-brushed black ceramic bezel. Incredibly light and strong, it gave the watch case a powdery, matte texture that felt unlike anything else. Often found on a black rubber strap with an ultra-lightweight titanium deployant clasp, this is the most highly technical of the original trio. While the standard titanium models remain readily available on the secondary market today, the graphene iteration can sometimes prove slightly more elusive to track down.

Hermès decided to experiment with color the following year. In 2022, it released a highly impactful 39mm iteration with a blue PVD-coated titanium case and dial, perfectly matched with a blue rubber or webbing strap. Now, blue dials are hardly a revolution; they’ve been the safe alternative to the black dial for well over a decade. However, Hermès handles color with great nuance, and the blue utilized here in the H08 Blue Titanium reference is a deep, almost oceanic shade, shifting from a dark navy to a subtle cerulean depending on how the light hits it. The blue PVD treatment draped over the titanium case gives the metal a cool, metallic sheen, entirely transforming the watch from what would otherwise feel a little industrial to something that could transition quite naturally from the office to the coast. The watch is still available to purchase at $8,750 on the Bleu Abysse blue rubber strap, complete with 100-meter water resistance.

The following year, at Watches & Wonders 2023, Hermès introduced the H08 "Colors" lineup, consisting of four 39mm aluminized glass fiber composite cases developed by weaving layers of glass fibers and coating them in aluminum before binding them all together with a slate powder-infused resin. The final cases achieved a distinct, silvery-gray woven texture that would catch the light in a somewhat unpredictable manner. To contrast with this high-tech monochrome base, Hermès injected vivid bursts of primary color: bright yellow, verdant green, striking blue, or the maison’s signature fiery orange. The hues featured in the sweeping seconds hand, chapter ring, minute track, crystal seal, and rubber strap of each model. All four iterations are still part of the brand’s permanent H08 lineup, priced at $8,750. They all come with a 39mm diameter, black-tinted sapphire caseback, self-winding movement, and textured, concrete-colored dial.

In 2023, Hermès added more than just new colors to the mix; it also welcomed the first high-end complication to the H08 family. The 41mm H08 Monopusher Chronograph was a genuine revelation for those looking to add a touch more complexity to their collection. Instead of the usual traditional dual pushers, the French watchmaker opted for an infinitely more elegant solution: a single pusher integrated into the winding crown. This single button independently controls the start, stop, and reset functions of the chronograph, while maintaining the sleek silhouette of the watch. To house this complicated modular iteration of the H1837 movement, Hermès even developed a bespoke carbon-fiber composite case topped with a satin-brushed titanium bezel, which you can still get your hands on for $13,300 today.

Hermès launched what we refer to as the "Light and Urban" styles last year. Two new titanium variations made a clean break away from the stark, high-contrast dials of the earlier models, bringing in lighter gray and rhodium displays instead. One cool execution in particular was the 39mm "Bleu Saint-Cyr," with applied numerals rendered in pale, icy blue, sitting against a heavily grained silvery-gray dial framed by a black or plain titanium bezel. The model brilliantly demonstrates how even the smallest tweaks to dial texture and color can entirely flip the impact of a sports watch on its head. This lighter, airy dial significantly boosts the watch's legibility and gives the bold, cushion-shaped case a more versatile personality. You can still get your hands on the “Bleu Saint-Cyr” reference. It retails at around $7,600 and features the signature 0 and 8 numerals that echo the cushion-shaped case and name of the collection.

This year, Hermès unveiled the 39mm H08 Squelette, skeletonizing the sports watch with immense architectural restraint so as to prevent it from looking too messy or too delicate. Naturally, the brand got the balance spot on. The H08 Squelette opens up the dial to reveal the intricate, ruthenium-coated Caliber H1978 S laid bare behind a sapphire glass. More to the point, the movement is housed within a stealthy, scratch-resistant DLC-coated titanium case and maintains complete legibility with floating hour markers in stark, industrial gray or vivid, electric blue colours, fixed on an outer sapphire crystal ring. It’s a mesmerizing piece of modern engineering that solidifies Hermès as a serious horological contender.

The Hermès H08 is an intentional, thoroughly intellectual approach to modern timekeeping. It began as a bit of a rebellious protest against the standard rules of sports watch design, and has now amassed a following of its own, doubling down on bespoke typography and avant-garde materials. More than anything, the H08 suggests to me that chartering your own course as a watchmaker can often lead to incredibly exciting things. And if the collection continues to evolve, who knows what architectural frontiers Hermès will conquer next.

For more information, visit the brand's website here.