Ressence Type 3 Is Back In Black (Again)

Ressence is returning to its Type 3 this week in Geneva with a new take on the all-black concept first put forth in the Type 3 B and Type 3 BB, which Teddy showed you right here. This is the new Type 3 BB2, and it pushes further into minimalist territory than ever before, while retaining the brilliant oil-filled aesthetic that defines the collection. The result may just be the most captivating execution of a Type 3 to date — so long as you like black, that is. There is a seamless quality here that’s less interrupted than past examples, as this one goes a step further than the existing Type 3 B by using a black case. The result is a new Type 3 BB.

The Type 3 is perhaps the purest distillation of the Ressence ethos, which challenges any conventional expectations we have around reading the time. It also offers the most compelling look at the brand’s ability to fill a display with oil. The result is a dial that looks like it’s painted on the surface of the crystal when it’s actually in a constant rotating motion. Oil-filled watches are, sadly, a rare sight, even more so when paired with a mechanical movement, which is the case here. The legibility is exceptional at literally any angle that offers you the slightest view of the dial.

This Ressence makes use of an ETA 2824/2 base caliber, upon which Ressence places its patented “Ressence Orbital Convex System” or ROCS, which is composed of 215 parts and allows for the orbital dance of each of the dials at work. There is no hand stack here, just constantly rotating dial pieces that make for a dynamic, changing view with each moment. This is what makes Ressence watches so special, and this is compounded when the view is experienced through an oil-filled case.

This Type 3 is a continuation of this iconoclastic brand’s black-on-black theme, meaning the base black dial blends perfectly with the black case, creating a pebble-like appearance that’s a tactile delight on the wrist, despite the 44mm x 15mm case dimensions. A case made of titanium helps on that front as well, but overall this is a very wearable watch that feels almost silky on the wrist. There is no crown (a rotating caseback handles winding and setting), and the lug is short, allowing for only a pass-through strap, meaning this doesn’t wear like a typical watch. 

The latest black dial seen here uses a more minimal design than we’ve seen in this series in the past. The minute index has been removed, leaving markings at each 5- minute segment around the dial, while the date markers appear in a dark gray tone. The effect is a much cleaner appearance that accentuates the curvature of the case and dial. It’s a more minimal approach, though I wouldn’t go so far as to call this a minimalist design. It’s a nice balance.

The new Type 3 BB2 features the third generation ROCS, and is available now from Ressence and authorized retailers. The price is set at CHF 38,200.