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The American jewelry house reimagines its most legendary heritage designs in watch form.
While Tiffany & Co. sparks immediate associations with its signature robin’s egg blue boxes, Art Nouveau lamps, and perhaps a certain Audrey Hepburn film, the jeweler does have a rich horological history that can be traced back to the mid-19th century. This week, the brand (now part of French luxury group LVMH) doubles down on its commitment to high horology in this century, releasing four distinct new watches that reinterpret the American high jeweler’s lengthy legacy for the contemporary watchmaking landscape. Debuting a collection of four new pieces, Tiffany & Co. cuts through the sense of stark minimalism that so often pervades modern design in favor of unabashed, maximalist opulence.
Selfishly, it seems only fitting to begin with my personal favorite among the four new releases. Featuring a swirling-patterned enamel dial, 18k white-gold case, and hour markers set with diamonds of various shapes, the Eternity by Tiffany Wisteria Enamel infuses the brand’s well-established Eternity line of watches with the flair of one of its most sought-after lamp designs – the Wisteria Tiffany lamp.
“Iconic” is often overused in the popular lexicon when referring to classic designs, and I try to use it sparingly. But in the case of Tiffany lamps — with their intricate latticework, motifs that draw upon the natural world, and the bold interplay of color, which only becomes more compelling as the light filters through their various enamel shards — I think the term is unavoidable. The piece at hand draws faithfully from the (you guessed it) Wisteria lamp design introduced in the early 1900s and was designed by Clara Driscoll.
Echoing the rich emeralds and shades of blue of the lamp that inspired it, the intricate dial is crafted using plique-à-jour enameling techniques, all done by hand, of course. The total working time that goes into creating each piece is over 150 hours. Each piece of colored enamel is translucent and is suspended between metal openings, which, as the brand details, allows the light to bounce back off the plate and illuminate the dial from within. The jewelry influence on this watch is not understated in the slightest. The varied shapes of the diamond hour markers in the Eternity collection are directly inspired by ads for engagement rings that ran in the 1960s; the heart-cut diamond is my undeniable favorite. Measuring 38mm in diameter, this piece is also powered by a mechanical movement, which in this case is the Swiss-made automatic LTM 2100 caliber, with 38 hours of power reserve.
Paying homage to legendary designer and artist Jean Schlumberger’s 1959 Sixteen Stone Collection, the Twenty-Four Stone watch brings the signature yellow-gold cross- stitch motif into the 21st century. Featuring more than 700 total diamonds (a whopping 6.5 carats collectively), this piece might be the most dramatically opulent among the four distinct watches the brand has debuted.
This is a watch that demands to be seen in motion, and I will warn you that you can’t experience the true dynamism of this piece by just looking at photos. This is due to the fact that the outer ring isn’t fixed, and will actually oscillate and spin with the motion of its wearer’s wrist. The hours are marked by Schlumberger’s quintessential cross motifs, cast in 18k yellow gold, and are complemented by a set of equally yellow-gold hands, which stand out dramatically against all the sparkling diamond details. This piece measures 39mm in diameter, is equipped with the automatic mechanical Caliber LTM 2100, and features a closed caseback emblazoned with a sunburst pattern that draws from Schlumberger’s "Floral Arrow" brooch design. Additionally, this watch is paired with a turquoise alligator strap with a solid yellow-gold, diamond-set clasp.
The Carat 128 Aquamarine stands out from this bunch (and among Tiffany & Co.’s staple watch collections) as among the most jewelry-forward. This effect is achieved with the line’s signature pairing of a faceted, cushion-shaped case with a faceted, diamond-cut slab of aquamarine in 35.23 carats. The effect is dazzling – the translucent aquamarine imparts a stunning hue while allowing the light to filter through and bounce back off the surface of the snow-set diamond dial, which features more than 382 individual stones.
The bracelet this piece is paired with is also a testament to Tiffany & Co.’s jewelry-making prowess. The five-row bracelet pays tribute to the brand’s own six-prong Tiffany Setting engagement ring, a design innovation that allows more light to pass through each diamond. Crafted in 18k white gold, the bracelet features an interspersing of diamonds of varying sizes (which amounts to 28 total carats), the largest of which features the aforementioned Tiffany Setting techniques themselves. The brand details that the diamond setting on this watch and bracelet alone takes more than 350 working hours to achieve. Measuring a slight 27mm diameter, this watch is powered by a High-precision Swiss quartz movement.
Another collaboration with the aforementioned Schlumberger, this piece reimagines the designer’s whimsical 1965 Bird on a Rock brooch design in the world of contemporary watchmaking. The bird itself is encrusted with diamonds, features a pink sapphire eye, and is placed atop a ring of green Tsavorite stones. But like the other Schlumberger creation, this watch incorporates a sense of movement into its design, and the bird is sneakily fastened to the watch's outer ring, which reveals itself to oscillate freely with its wearer’s movements.
The case measures 39mm in diameter, is crafted from 18K white gold, and is entirely covered with snow-set diamonds, along with the fixed center dial. Matching the hues of the Tsavorite gems, this watch is paired with a green alligator strap with a diamond-encrusted, white gold clasp. Additionally, this watch is equipped with the automatic mechanical Caliber LTM 2100.
All four of these Tiffany & Co. watches are available now, with pricing available upon request. For more information, please see the brand’s website.
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