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We’ve had a great time wrapping up this last year’s watches with our Editors’ Picks articles, but we figured the day that closes out one year and ushers in the next deserves something a little special. So, each member of the editorial team here at Teddy was tasked with designing their “fantasy watch” that we would be over the moon to see in 2025. And these are not just descriptions of these hypothetical timepieces: we’ve also got full concept graphics that bring the ideas to life. We hope you’ll enjoy these picks and, as if we have to say it again, please share yours in the comments. More importantly, have a great New Year’s, and we’ll see you in 2025.
Oh, and a special thanks to our own Danny Milton, who made these fantasy watches come to life with these images.
I have never claimed to be an expert prognosticator of watch industry trends, and usually avoid making such predictions, at least on the record, like the proverbial plague. But I will open my allotted section of this curated wish list with a bit of self-congratulation. It was late March 2022, right on the heels of the very first Swatch x Omega MoonSwatch launches, when I attended the first in-person Watches & Wonders show since the Covid-19 pandemic — my fifteenth such pilgrimage and my first as Director of Editorial Content for Teddy Baldassarre. In the FHH-sponsored van transporting a group of jetlagged journalists, including Teddy and myself, from the Geneva Airport to our hotel, the MoonSwatch and its industry-shaking impact were the unavoidable topics of conversation. I am not sure if anyone but Teddy and I would recall my sole contribution to that discussion (I mentioned we were jetlagged, right?) but it was essentially this: The Swatch brand, as the eponymous, mass-market flagship of the massive Swatch Group, had access to the most iconic pieces of not only Omega but other Swatch Group luxury brands, including Blancpain and Breguet. Now that Omega’s Speedmaster “MoonWatch” had been replicated in a Swatch, other important models from its sister brands could follow suit; right then and there, I suggested that the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms could be next.
Lo and behold, fast-forward about six months, and the Swatch x Blancpain watch was a reality. So maybe I actually do have a handle on where these Swatch collaborations might be going. Which brings me to what I have, mostly quietly, been hoping for as the next one. We have a chronograph and a diver, so wouldn’t a classic pilot be the logical next step to complete the trifecta? And which Swatch Group brand boasts the most historically significant aviator-style watch? That would be Breguet, with its Type XX, which to my mind would make for an excellent Swatch x Breguet collaboration (what, you expected maybe a tourbillon?). As you can surmise from the image above, masterfully imagineered by our Photoshop maestro Danny Milton, such a watch would undoubtedly feature a bioceramic case with the classic coin-edge fluting on the sides, a quartz chronograph movement, and a bicompax dial with the familiar Arabic hour markers, along with the retro, elegant “Breguet” inscription above the more contemporary “Swatch” logo. I confess I don’t have a clever guess on what it would be called; “MoonSwatch” was a no-brainer for the Omega editions, and while “Scuba Fifty Fathoms” isn’t as catchy for the Blancpains, it does incorporate the names of diver models from both brands. Swatch has pilot-style watches in its lineup but none really compatible with the Type XX. Is the Swatch x Breguet Type XX PilotSwatch too generic? (For that matter, is simply “Swatch XX Breguet” too subtle?) In any case, I’m still holding out for this one. Would I wear such a piece? As a huge fan of the Type XX and Breguet in general, I’d say probably yes. But perhaps even more, I really want to be 2-for-2 on these predictions.
I have a confession to make. I really love these fantasy watch exercises. I take great pride and pleasure in using my casual Photoshop skills to assemble this ensemble. But moving past my self-agrandizing, let’s move into my choice and why I chose it. My thought process was geared towards picking something that is both fantastical and plausible. The result is a new take on the Omega Railmaster. Notice how I did not say Seamaster Railmaster. And that is because I have devised a model that plays off of the Trilogy edition of the Railmaster (now discontinued), and gives the classic model’s silhouette a dial makeover of sorts. So what I did was combine elements of the Seamaster Railmaster and the classic Railmaster to create what I am calling the Omega Railmaster Heritage (I also considered calling it the Winter Railmaster but then realized that doesn’t really mean anything so I abandoned…train).
I decided to maintain the overall dial texture from the recently discontinued Seamaster Railmaster, and the recessed marker style. What I replaced were the numerals, adding the vintage style to this design as well as the vintage Omega logo and typeface. I chose to forgo any patination and felt the result bridges the old and the new. Much like the new First Omega in Space saw fit to return to a flat-link bracelet style, so too did I choose to utilize a bracelet more connected to the vintage model than the modern. And to cap it off, I went with the most contemporary material of all for the case and bracelet: titanium. The result, I think, is a pretty handsome watch that I would 100% wear. Who knows? Perhaps the watch gods will manifest this design one day. I’d buy it.
I love funky dive watches of a certain era, and among my favorites are IWC GST Aquatimer references from the ‘90s. The GST (Gold, Steel, Titanium) collection as a whole saw some pretty strange/amazing watches, but my favorite was the 2000M Aquatimer in titanium (it also came in steel). I think the GST design language is due for a comeback, and this is the modern GST Aquatimer that I’d love to see in 2024. Plenty of ‘90s funkiness with modern fit and finish captures a vibe sorely missing in the current Aquatimer collection.
The push-to-turn bezel with the notch at 12 is a vital component, as is the hilariously extreme 2000M depth rating. I’d like to see it return in titanium, sized between 40mm and 42mm, with as much of the integrated case situation retained as possible. This is the kind of character I’m missing on most modern dive watches, and with this collection, IWC has a rich history to tap into.
If you can’t tell, I’ve got a thing for Chopard. The L.U.C Sport 2000 is one of the most underrated neo-vintage sport watches out there, with that silver guilloché dial; perfectly sized, 40mm wide and 10mm thick case with 100 meters of water resistance; and a COSC-certified micro-rotor movement. This watch was discontinued years ago but a contemporary take on it would almost certainly find itself on my wrist (and do gangbusters in general, IMHO). So, my fantasy watch is a fresh take on the original that opts for a titanium case, has no date window, and features a sleeker new case style and crown. What makes the watch great stays the same, and it actually cleans up quite nicely on a leather strap as opposed to a rubber strap or metal bracelet.
I’ve always considered the Sport 2000 to be an Explorer-killer, but take that package and bring it into 2025 with a slick titanium case and symmetrical dial? For me, that’s not just a fantasy watch but a perfect everyday watch.
For nearly a decade, the lion's share of internal recognition from Rolex-owned Tudor has been committed to one dive-watch family, the Black Bay. This might be an obvious result, given the commercial success and the upholding of the distant yet constantly mentioned lineage of the Tudor Submariner. I am the last person who will be jumping on the "the Black Bay is played out" train, as the collection now seems to finally be reaching its mature stride with updated looks, on-the-fly adjustment, and Master Chronometer certifications as part of the newfound standard.
Despite its recent success, if 1960s and 1970s Tudor had the capabilities of today, the watch it would likely create that also doubles as my choice would be the Tudor Pelagos at 39mm in blue. When you share history with the Crown of Switzerland, there are inherent benefits that come with it. On the other hand, some challenges come with having an intersecting history with the industry's most ubiquitous dive watch design. What Tudor can always claim compared to its corporate sibling is an early use of blue and a hint of playful nonchalance in its interpretation of tool watches of the period. These mild peculiarities to the philosophy were what caused me to become a lover of vintage Tudor Submariners.
So, what exactly is the watch I am yearning for? It would simply be a modified M25407 with a blue dial in titanium and a Master Chronometer certification. The last part of the equation is likely why this exact model has not been created yet. As of this moment, there are no three-hand divers from Tudor at 39mm that are Master Chronometer certified. The possibility of its arrival seems increasingly plausible following the release of the 58 GMT this past year. I am not going to leave you all in astonishment at the creativity of my pick; however, that was not a prerequisite of validity for my choice, nor do I value being a contrarian over expressing my authentic taste. Nevertheless, whenever this day comes, I will be there with my wallet and an empty wrist, ready for a new piece to accompany it.
To be fair, this is my answer to this same question every single year. While I do think our dear Daytona has suffered more than its share of Instagram hype, this is still the racing chronograph to end all racing chronographs. That is a hill I am prepared to defend; the hype is justified. The proportions are fantastic, the build quality is (obviously) exceptional, and Rolex has the watchmaking chops to back it all up: an in-house automatic chronograph that’s inside 12mm thick is, objectively, an impressive feat.
What hasn’t yet happened, and what I ask for every year, is a titanium version of the watch. In my opinion, the ceramic bezel is fine on the steel models, but I think the metal-bezeled references are the superior specification of the Daytona — the 116520 being the last of its kind — yet the precious metals still maintain this form factor. All of this aside, for the Daytona to truly go full-race, we need to see a reference in titanium. Sure, it seems as if Ti is the case-material du jour as of late, but this is an application that only makes sense in my mind for a racing chronograph. Couple it with a matching metal bezel and we’re really cooking with gas now.
However, for this to be more than just a simple “material change,” Rolex would surely take this one step further, at least in my imagined scenario. And my request here is that the Crown make a serious statement by modifying the Caliber 4130 so that this hypothetical titanium Tony could feature a flyback chronograph in the same package. In spite of what many internet commenters may want you to believe, Rolex watches are serious pieces with serious pedigree; even if the peanut gallery has largely reduced them to status symbols. And I believe that a move like this can and would remind everyone of what Rolex is actually capable of. I patiently await my allocation.
I have recently splurged on a gym membership for myself, and for the first time, I’m suddenly interested in tracking everything, as if conscious knowledge of my stats will make my workouts more effective. Honestly, I’m not even at the point of my gym lifestyle where I would know how to implement most of what the data would tell me. It’s more of a comfort thing than anything.
That being said, I still can’t believe that there aren’t any more discreet options for smartwatches on the market today. I have enough screens in my life, I don’t need one on my wrist. And though Casio has released some G-Shocks recently that are marketed for activity tracking, they’re still huge. In the smartwatch of my fantasies, Casio would release a take on one of its iconic vintage models with the necessary sensors on the back. It would be small and stealthy and have a graphic display with pixel art indicating different workout and health modes. Is this too much to ask for?!
When this assignment pinged my radar, I took it as either a call to reissue a dearly discontinued watch, or update an existing one, so in this case, there’s a bit of both going on. I’m renowned for my questionable taste in nearly, well, everything, but watches especially, and this one’s a doozy. TAG Heuer, bring back the first watch designed under your aegis, the distinctive (and highly divisive) S/el. Oh, and make it in black ceramic.
The S/el name first appeared in 1987, and boy, was this a watch made for its time. It was the height of the go-go Eighties, and design was, shall we say, bold. Asymmetrical, angular, neon-soaked, and avant-garde were the aesthetics of the day, and after the Heuer era sunsetted into the TAG epoch, the brand went full-force with the release of the colored fiberglass Formula 1, a project that began before TAG’s takeover, and a highly successful one after its launch. It was a shot in the arm for the Swiss watch industry, as audacious as what Swatch had already unleashed, but in a more substantial timepiece. TAG’s encore was the S/el (Sports/Elegance), a more grown-up presentation, perhaps, but one with an even more out-there appearance.
With the S/el, it was all about undoing the designs of the past. Gone were the crisp case angles and conservative dials. In their place came organic forms, with an integrated case showing no sharp angles, flowing into a bracelet that looked like the spine of an alien creature born from the imagination of Swiss artist H.R. Giger, the mastermind behind the entire look of the Alien franchise. The S/el’s designer, Eddy Schöpfer, really went for it, and his design, a huge hit at the time, is alternately beloved and reviled today, because let’s face it: the S/el is definitely a product of the ‘80s. And as another product of that time, I love it.
Alas, just like video arcades, hair metal, and the Pontiac Fiero (and Pontiac itself), once-hot trends litter the dustbin of history, and the S/el evolved into a more refined, and yes, more conservative shape in 1999, with the introduction of the TAG Heuer Link series, part of the catalog to this day. Call it my early imprinting, but there’s something about the OG S/el, whether it's the radical form factor, its connection to racing greats of the day like the late Ayrton Senna, or just my own personal will to be weird, but I would love to see a reboot of this watch.
Give me a 38mm chronometer version like my favorite reference, the s89.206, but this go around, make it in a murderous black. It’ll tone down the flash, turn up the sophistication, and give the whole affair a sinister edge. Black never goes out of style, and it looks good on anyone. If it didn’t, we’d probably see a lot more powder blue tuxedos. Whether in black DLC stainless steel, blackened titanium, or especially black ceramic (how I would love to experience the click-clack of those snake-like bracelet links in ceramic), this is a watch I would pony up for faster than Senna’s McLaren/Honda V10.Official Authorized Dealer of over 40+ leading luxury brands.
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