Editors' Picks: Our Favorite El Primero Movement Watches Of All Time

On January 10th, 1969, Zenith released the now-iconic El Primero movement. Meaning “the first” in Spanish, El Primero was the world’s first automatic chronograph movement, its introduction beating out that of the Caliber 11 “Chrono-matic” by Breitling and Heuer as well as the Caliber 6139 by Seiko. Not just the first, the El Primero packed a punch with its high frequency and svelte 6.5mm height. For this year's "El Primero Day," the Teddy editorial team chose our favorite watches outfitted with this legendary movement through its 56-year history. And, no, these are not all Zenith watches — since the El Primero has also been used by several brands including Rolex, Panerai, Daniel Roth, Ebel, and Movado.

And if you're craving an in-depth history of the El Primero, make sure to read this thoroughly researched article by our very own Mark Bernardo. For now, let's take a look at our favorite watches to use an El Primero movement...

Mark Bernardo: Zenith Chronomaster Sport

I have long been a fan of the Zenith El Primero and have made it a mission to perpetuate the movement’s fascinating origin story (which culminates in its introduction to the world 56 years ago today) and the even more legendary tale of its survival against all odds during the Quartz Crisis. Today, the El Primero is firmly established as one of the most impressive accomplishments in the world of mechanical watches and the axis around which the Zenith brand revolves. Of course, it has found its way into many other watches from other brands as well, and its tempting to pick one of those lesser known iterations, simply to flaunt my knowledge of such industry trivia. But the truth is, the El Primero watches that I admire the most are of fairly recent vintage — to be specific, the models in the recently introduced Chronomaster Sport collection.

Why the Chronomaster Sport? Quite simply, because it is the first regular-production watch from Zenith that truly allows the El Primero to strut its stuff on the dial. By that I mean that the movement’s breakthrough feature — its 36,600-vph/5-Hz balance frequency, which allows for chronograph readings to an ultra-precise 1/10 second — had always been present but had never taken advantage of a watch design that exploited this pinpoint accuracy. The Chronomaster Sport, a descendant of the original El Primero watches from the 1970s, introduced a central chronograph seconds hand that makes a lightning-quick sweep around the dial once every 10 seconds rather than the usual 60 seconds, and paired it with a ceramic bezel graduated to 1/10-second increments, allowing the wearer to read these elapsed times directly on the bezel. Certainly, fine watchmaking is often about inner complexity belying exterior simplicity, but there’s something to be said for energetic dynamism in watch design also, and with the Chronomaster Sport — already a major pillar of the brand’s collection despite being launched only in 2021 — Zenith has given us perhaps the most dynamic chronograph model on the market today.

Erin Wilborn: Ebel 1911 Classic Sport Chronograph

It’s always interesting, when thinking about the El Primero movement, to track down vintage references from other brands that Zenith ended up giving the movement to before LVMH started cracking down on this practice. My favorite is the ultra-'80s Ebel 1911 Classic Sport Chronograph, famously worn by Don Johnson in the TV series "Miami Vice."

I’m a two-tone gal, so Reference 1134901 is a personal favorite (which I first discovered through this owner’s review by Robert-Jan Broer), but the brand produced all-steel and all-gold models throughout the 1980s and '90s as well. The mixing of the classic chronograph aesthetics with some quirky elements like the exposed screws along the case and that deliciously funky wave bracelet really just do it for me. Do yourself a favor and do a bit of Googling to see this piece in its "Miami Vice" glory days if you aren’t convinced of the vision — or if you just need a dose of '80s-era nostalgia. 

Bilal Khan: Rolex Daytona 16520

From 1988 to 2000 the Rolex Daytona Ref. 16520 was outfitted with the Caliber 4030 which, as you should discern from the headline of this article, was a modified El Primero movement. Sure, Rolex reduced the operating frequency (which juiced the power reserve) and ditched the date window, but there is a reason this ubiquitous watch is known as the "Zenith Daytona" in collector circles. Indeed, the Daytona was manual-wound from the mid 1960s through 1988, when Rolex finally found the right automatic caliber for its iconic chronograph.

Danny Milton: Zenith Chronomaster Original

How can I not opt for the OG? Here is a watch that is, at minimum, one of the first automatic chronographs to come to market, and Zenith continues to produce it in a faithful, near originally designed, format (much like Omega does with the Moonwatch). While I am partial to the precious-metal editions of this watch, I am going to stick to the steel, tri-color version and will choose a strap as my – um – strap of choice. This is one of the most distinctive watch designs ever made and it just so happens to have been the vessel through which an iconic movement was born. Sure, I was tempted to go with the Rolex Daytona with my pick today, but I couldn't pass up a chance at history. 

Blake Buettner: Zenith Rainbow Flyback

In the pantheon of great El Primero-equipped watches, there is one that stands out to my eye thanks to its funky design and rather unique story. It hails from my favorite era of sport watch design: the late 1990s. Zenith’s Rainbow collection of chronographs (so named for the 1934 America’s Cup-winning racing yacht, not the color scheme) was well established when the company was approached to create a service watch for the French Air Force, the result of which is the Rainbow Flyback. France’s shifting political landscape in the ‘90s meant the project was DOA, but Zenith decided to launch the watch commercially instead, which it did at the Baselworld fair in 1997. 

The Rainbow Flyback is unique for the colors that it employs in the minute totalizer of the dial, meant to quickly partition the subdial into five-minute segments that could be read on the fly. The svelte case and matte finishes added another dimension to the watch, with the silky action of the flyback variation of the El Primero pushing the whole package over the top. This is a uniquely ‘90s design that somehow feels just as compelling today, and it happens to wear better than a vast majority of modern chronographs (including many released by Zenith), making it the ultimate El Primero charmer. 

D.C. Hannay: Dior Homme Chiffre Rouge A05

Like many, I’m a lover of vintage Zenith El Primeros, and an easy pick for me would be a pristine A386 or A384, or even one of their modern equivalents, but the little anarchist on my shoulder has whispered in my ear that I oughta mix things up yet again. In that spirit, I’m going with what is probably one of the strangest watches to ever house the fabled movement. And with that, I’ve waded once again into the pool of haute couture. The Dior Homme Chiffre Rouge A05 is as weird as El Primero-powered chronographs get.

This curious chrono was born in the early 2000s, when designer Hedi Slimane ran the Dior men's division, and the entirety of the lineup over the Chiffre Rouge range’s original run is distinctive, to say the least. Overarching themes include 4 o’clock crowns and/or pushers, odd case profiles, and a red, silver, and black throughline as the dominant aesthetic. Amid the more conventional three-handers, there are a few tool-watch references, including an outrageous 300-meter diver, but I’m focusing on the A05 model chronograph. The 41mm stainless steel case and matching bracelet are encased in black rubber, and the crown side of the case appears to have been violently cut off with a katana. That’s where you’ll find a prominent red chrono pusher, which absolutely looks like it triggers something ominous. The red theme continues on the chrono second hand and the numerals of the date wheel, but it gets even better. Around back, you’ll find a caseback display crystal offering a peek at that El Primero caliber within, tinted in ruby red, and looking like an instrument from the inside of a submarine’s conning tower, ready to launch torpedoes.

The A05 has been discontinued for some time, along with the rest of that original Chiffre Rouge lineup, but Dior has recently relaunched the name in a new collection. The latest versions go further upmarket, with textile-patterned dials, softened angles, and even a variant with a black diamond bezel, but for me, the originals are just a bit more mad, bad, and dangerous to know.