5 Watches That Could Start (And Complete) A Watch Collection

Having a collection of watches isn’t generally something you plan on. It’s something that emerges over time, and it’s rarely a linear path. While it may seem natural to focus on finding the perfect watch or watches to fill out your watch box, the reality is that all watches have their faults, and the real key is learning which of those you can live with, and which you can’t. In time, some of those, let’s call them quirks, can even become endearing. With that in mind, instead of looking at watches that will begin a collection, let us take a look at watches that will end up lasting in your collection. Sure, they could start your collection, but they could just as easily end it, whether that collection consists of two watches, or 50. 

With that, here are 5 watches that would kick off any collection with a bang, and that I feel would have a high likelihood of sticking around for the long term. 

Disclaimer: these selections will lean a bit toward the tool watch end of the spectrum, as those are the watches that I find the most well-rounded and practical for my purposes. If you’re looking for some classier recommendations in the same vein, keep an eye out for a future installment. 

Brew Metric

The Brew Metric is a remarkably fun, simple watch that represents the sheer creativity happening in the small independent brand space. This is a great watch to start with for a few reasons. First, it can be had in a wide variety of colorways, which range from classic and demure to vibrant and colorful. I can’t think of many watches that could successfully pull off as many colorways as the Metric can, as each brings something different to the table, and they all just work. Next, this Metric is beautifully proportioned, at 36mm in diameter, and with an integrated bracelet that tapers into a deployant clasp. Pair that with a total thickness well under 11mm and you’ve got an exceptional on-wrist experience. 

The Metric uses a hybrid VK68 meca-quartz movement, which keeps this watch under $500. It’s on the more accessible end of this list, but it’s also a watch that retains its appeal regardless of where your collection ultimately ends up. The unique design, the way the colors come together, and the well thought-out proportions all make for a watch that’s easy and fun to wear. Every collection needs a watch like this, and the Brew delivers in spades. Further, this watch could end up serving as a gateway into the wonderful worlds of microbrands and small independent brands, which offer a wealth of creativity and variety that you don’t often see from the major players. 

One example is the Easter egg in this watch that's nestled at the bottom of the dial. A segment between 25 and 35 seconds stands apart from the rest of the seconds index, representing the time it takes to extract an optimal espresso shot. If the name wasn’t a giveaway, much of the inspiration with this brand comes from high- end coffee brewing equipment, and these are the kinds of details that keep things interesting. Even if you’re not an espresso enthusiast, the design motifs still work. I love the Metro as a first watch or a last watch because it’s approachable, easy to use and wear, and is a good reminder not to take yourself too seriously. 

A Seiko Prospex Diver 

Seiko dive watches are legendary for good reason. They enjoy an almost unrivaled amount of history with whole books worth of exploits to uncover. But there’s something else about them that gets under your skin. There are plenty of great references to choose from, including vintage examples such as the 6309 and SAL025, but a good starting point is likely one of the modern renditions in the same lineage — references like the SPB143 (shown in the photos below), SPB317, SPB237. Each is representative of a different case style and era of the brand’s past, and all are exceptional modern dive watches that work just as well as daily worn tool watches. 

If you have any interest at all in dive watches I see these watches as a good starting point, as they can easily pull you into a much deeper world (no pun intended), or serve as a great single dive watch in any collection. They have a funky style that feels just different enough, and they are all fun to swap straps with, which can be addicting in its own right. In short, these are watches that can open up new worlds to discover. Additionally, regardless of your collecting ambitions, these are watches that never seem to get old. 

On a personal level, I find references like the SPB143 and SPB317 (and their various colorways) the best options to start with, as their cases are more approachable than something like a Willard, for instance, and each can be had for under $1,000. These are two watches that bring a lot of personality to the table, and while neither is perfect (again, no watch is), they are easily some of the most endearing watches on this list. Having one will set you down one of two paths with your collection, and regardless of where your collection ends up, will find itself a welcome character in the watch box. 

IWC Tribute To Mark XI

The IWC Mark XI is a legendary pilots watch from the 1940s, developed for RAF pilots under the then new 6B/346 standard. They were accurate, anti-magnetic, and used one of the all-time great hand-wound movements, Caliber 89. This watch would set the tone for a generation of pilot watches that persists to this day, and in 2017, IWC introduced its Tribute to Mk XI. The new rendition wasn’t exactly the same as the original, featuring modern amenities such as a date and an automatic movement, but it does capture the brute charm of the first Mk XI quite effectively.

The Tribute to XI was a limited edition watch, and are long since sold out; however, they can be had on the secondary market around $4,500. Not cheap by any stretch, but this one is a great long-term add to the collection. Not only does it represent a great stretch of IWC’s history, but it’s also a great everyday tool-watch option. The brushed steel case measures 40mm in diameter, and 10.8mm in thickness, which is something of a sweet spot for many wrists. The relatively thin case makes this an easy one to swap different straps into, with this one taking especially well to fabric NATO style straps. 

What I love about this watch is the use of the old-school squared-off hour hand and pencil minute hand. To my eye, this handset works far more effectively than the modern broadsword hands on many IWC pilot watches. It’s a classic and effective presentation, and the slightly smaller hour markers that line the rest of the dial create an all-around better proportioned design than the standard IWC Mark watches. This may be listed as a pilot watch, but in reality, it’s a perfect all-rounder that falls closer to field watch territory in my mind. It covers a lot of bases, and while it might not be the true return of a Mk XI that I’d like to see (let's ditch the date and use a hand-wound movement, please), it’s a great all-around tool watch to anchor a collection.

I think it bears mentioning that for every discontinued or vintage watch reference mentioned in this story, there is typically a great current-production alternative in a brand's catalog. In the case of IWC, the best next option could very well be the Automatic Spitfire, a 39mm take on the classic Mark series design that shares a similar numeral set to the Mk XI, as well as faux-luminescent elements but with the added red pop of color by way of the Spitfire word mark. You lose the squared off hands, but still retain that old-school charm.

Omega Speedmaster Ref. 145.022

There is a saying about the Speedmaster —  that every collection needs one — but I’m not here to tell you that. The Speedmaster just straight up isn’t for some people, and that’s just fine. For this list, I submit the reference 145.022 Speedmaster specifically for a few reasons, but mostly because it will serve as a great opening to vintage watches in general, as well as to hand-wound chronographs, not just limited to the Speedmaster. Sure, it’s got all the history of the space program behind it, but I find that element to rarely be compelling purely on its own when it comes to buying a watch. 

The reference 145.022 was in production for 20 years, meaning you can find them vintage, with pre-moon casebacks, to let’s say neo-vintage on the later end. Plenty of them were made. This is a great intro to the Speedmaster because there is plenty of history associated with it, and the design is largely unchanged from the modern variation of the Speedmaster Professional. This is a watch that could kick off your thirst for more Speedmasters, more chronographs, or even just vintage watches in general. It’s a gateway watch. But it’s also great in its own right if you decide that neither of those paths are for you. 

This is a reference that’s also not too precious. It’s approachable, and wearable. Like most Speedmasters, it’s also something of a strap monster. It’s a fun watch that has a huge amount of heritage associated with it, but you don’t ever feel bogged down by that when wearing this reference. A particular favorite is the short production span that received misprinted bezels that read ‘220’ instead of ‘200’ as they should. It’s a fun Easter egg that would costs hundreds of thousands if found on a Rolex, but here it doesn’t really change the price (under or around $5,000) at all. These watches are full of such fun details, and they can really deepen your connection with not only the watch, but the community as you learn more. For that, it’s a great collection starter.

Of course, if vintage isn't your thing, there there is so much historical design language in the modern Speedmaster collection. The Ref.  310.30.42.50.01.001 with its Hesalite crystal and vintage callback "dot over ninety" bezel, gives you all the feeling of a vintage Speedy – including the step dial – but with the added METAS-grade 3861 caliber. There are very few brands that have ever continually produced a watch in the manner in which the Moonwatch has been. And this is why it maintains that recognizable vintage charm.

Rolex Explorer 124270

I’d like to end with the Rolex Explorer Reference 124270, which I’ve already written about right here. This watch is, in my opinion, capable of at once starting and ending a watch collection. Either by itself, or amongst a myriad of others. This is a great daily companion, and is the least ‘Rolex’ of all modern ‘Rolex’ watches, which is a bit ironic, given that at its core it is about as close as you can get to the original ethos of what it means to be a ‘Rolex.’ By that I mean it doesn’t come with much of the baggage that other modern Rolex watches seem to. It’s simple, small, and the opposite of flashy. It’s just three hands and a dial, with one of the best cases and bracelets you’re likely to come across for daily wear. 

This is not an inexpensive watch, costing around $7,000, but it’s a watch that’s best thought of as an investment in yourself. Not a literal investment (for real, don’t buy watches as real investments), but when experienced over the course of generations, the cost per year, per wear, or per experience, seems downright reasonable. This watch has a great history associated with it, but even putting all that aside, there’s something undeniably special about this watch in my mind. 

The design is a bit strange, but not too out there. The size requires some getting used to, but once you do, it’s the rest of your watches that will feel a bit ‘off’ on the wrist. This is a watch that will have you questioning why you even have other watches. This is a great option if you’re the type looking for a single formal watch, a single tool or sport watch, and a single weekend beater watch. You could argue that the Explorer is all three of those things, but tastes will vary here. Regardless, this is a near perfect watch to start a collection with, and may even have you realize that it’s also a perfect end point.

Let us know the sort of watches you would include in this category!