Atelier Wen Review: Artisanal Chinese Watchmaking

Within the burgeoning small independent watch brand scene we find creative inspiration that takes many forms. Oftentimes, this is focused on a specific moment in time or place in history. With Atelier Wen, a young Hong Kong based manufacture, that inspiration is the celebration of culture and craftsmanship of a nation. The name is a combination of the French word for workshop, and the Chinese word for culture, and serves as a fitting description of not only the brand’s founders, but also the driving force behind their creative vision. Since their founding in 2018, Atelier Wen has become a showcase of Chinese culture and craftsmanship within a world of high-end horology generally dominated by European centric attitudes. 

[toc-section heading="Some Brand History"]

Atelier Wen was founded by Robin Tallendier and Wilfried Buiron, two Frenchmen with a shared passion for, and deep connection to Chinese culture and watchmaking. Through their time living and working in China (Robin an advisor and expert in the China Horologe Association; Wilfried a graduate of Peking University and Tsinghua University), the pair developed a deep reverence for the watchmaking scene as represented through the community of collectors and watchmakers. Upon their return to Europe, the two quickly found that their experiences did not align with the general perceptions found in the west. Together, the founders sought to take advantage of the opportunity to put a spotlight on the true nature of Chinese culture and craftsmanship through the lens of Atelier Wen. 

The goal of creating high quality timepieces with a Chinese soul imbues the brand with a deeper meaning than we generally find at this scale of watchmaker. Shifting perceptions is no easy feat, and one that presents no shortcuts to success. The result is a design language that works on multiple levels, making an immediate at-a-glance impression with unconventional architecture and finishing, while not shying away from the small details executed with care when viewed up close. From colors and textures, to materials and finishes, Atelier Wen watches make use of a wide range of techniques to make a statement, while the Chinese connection can be apparent at first blush, these are watches that stand on their own accord. 

Obviously, the whole of Chinese culture represents a vast tapestry of potential inspiration. Atelier Wen draws upon this history in ways both subtle and overt, never afraid to shy away from the cornerstone of their identity. How this manifests within their collections varies, but each of the watches carries a distinct Chinese aesthetic represented in a contemporary manner. Not all of these themes are obvious, often celebrating lesser known aspects of Chinese heritage, and all are executed with the help of Chinese designers, artisans, manufacturers, and partners that bring their own creativity, passion, and vision with them. This is an important component of Atelier Wen’s raison d'être, afterall. Let’s take a look at how this manifests within the brand’s most recent offerings.

[toc-section heading="The Perception"]

Things begin with the Perception, a watch that launched to great success on Kickstarter, setting the proof of concept in motion. This is the integrated bracelet design that feels familiar at a glance, but quickly sets itself apart in the small details, and the execution itself. Hexagonal links rest between H-links, with each corner and edge receiving a light polish and chamfer to aid in articulation and comfort. This supports a 40mm case that measures just 9.4mm in thickness thanks to the Dandong SL1588 automatic movement within. The real star here is the dial, however, which features a hand crafted écaille de poisson pattern, turned by China’s first guilloché master craftsman, Cheng Yucai. There are four layers to the dial, which are adhered using tenets of Sunmao. Already with the Perception, we’re getting a story of Chinese culture and knowhow weaved into the ergonomic design, and this would serve as the basis of what’s to come. 

[toc-section heading="The Inflection"]

The Inflection is an evolution of the brand’s original integrated bracelet design seen in the Perception, and here, every detail has been meticulously crafted. There are many features that make this watch unique, beginning with the material chosen, which is tantalum. Tantalum is priced for its deep, cool hue compared to steel, and while it’s notoriously difficult to finish to the same level as something like steel, Atelier Wen have pulled it off. There isn’t a straight surface to be found on the case and bracelet, and every angle features the stunning degree to which the design has been brought to life in the material. 

Integrated bracelet watch designs have become commonplace in recent years, with many brands perceiving a trend to be taken advantage of. The truly good examples manage to work it into the design as a whole, so it never feels like an afterthought, and that’s what we find here. The bracelet gracefully meets the curvature of the 40mm case with a deep chamfer designing the boundary. The bracelet itself uses something of an H-link design, but it’s very unique in nature, with the center link taking a sculptural quality in its shape and finish. 

The Inflection is presented with a trio of dial options, each showcasing different enameling techniques done by 孔令俊 (Kong Lingjun)’s workshop in Beijing. Each of the dials brings out a different aspect of the design’s character, while hosting Western-Arabic numeral hour markers by Lee Yuen-Rapati, inspired by Chinese bamboo leaf calligraphy. The chapter ring motif ties everything together beautifully, and speaks to the roots of the design itself. 

Inside, Atelier Wen has turned to one of Switzerland’s most storied manufacturers in Girard-Perregaux. Turning the watch over will reveal a highly customized automatic caliber GP03300, with bridges and an oscillating weight adorned with motifs of wind seen in historical Chinese paintings. The design comes from Atelier Wen’s designer Alfred Chan, alongside Sidoine Lescauville and the Girard-Perregaux technical team to make it possible. The bridges are ruthenium-plated to match the tantalum case, with 5N rose gold used in the spokes of the rotor for a dramatic burst of contrast. 

The Inflection is Atelier Wen’s most ambitious design to date, and sets forth a clear vision of where the brand is heading. There is a sense of maturity to the design, built on the learnings and experiences of Perception, and yearly Millesime watches. The materials, the design, and the finishing all represent a sophisticated celebration of Chinese culture and craft. Due to the material and the grade of movement at use here, the Inflection is priced in the $30,000 realm, and again, feels like a showpiece of what the brand is capable of. 

[toc-section heading="The Ancestra"]

The Ancestra, or 蛟 (Jiāo), is a very different design philosophy come to life, presenting in a more traditional manner compared to their other integrated design. The details here are less impressive, however. This watch begins with a beautifully sculpted 38mm case crafted from steel, featuring a separate lug element that stands apart from the midcase. Iconography here recalls ancient Chinese mythology, and it’s followed through on the dial as well. This case, which uses a mix of brushed and polished surfaces, is worth pausing to fully appreciate the small details. Every angle and curve is well considered, and the design as a whole feels entirely unique to the watch. 

With the Ancestra, the movement is sourced from the French manufacture, Pequignet in the caliber EPM03. Viewing the movement reveals a truly extraordinary sight, as the main bridge hosting extensive micro-etching of Chinese characters that expand on the mythological inspirations that 蛟 (JIĀO)’s case and dial espouse. The opened oscillating weight keeps a clear view of the work underneath, making this a truly special partnership for the brand. Additionally, the movement has been regulated to COSC specifications, meaning it will keep time to within -4/+6 seconds per day. 

As special as the case and dial are with the Ancestra, the dial tells a story of its own, all of it tying together with the broader story of Chinese mythology. The dial begins with a hand-hammered piece of 925 silver that is then subjected to the enameling process. The result is a Grand feu, fumé enamel dial with deep cobalt coloring done by the workshop of Kong Lingjun. The dial can be had with Arabic numerals, or traditional Chinese numerals, interspaced with lab grown diamonds. 

The Ancenstra is a watch that reveals a new design language from Atelier Wen, and further establishes the brand’s ability to tap into deep Chinese lore for design inspiration. There is a story being told here, and it manifests in surprising ways in a manner very rarely seen not only in this space, but in watchmaking as a whole. This watch also previews a more elegant, formal design that doesn’t cut corners. 

[toc-section heading="Looking Ahead"]

Atelier Wen is in a particularly interesting position at the moment, having established their core thesis in a compelling manner across multiple design disciplines. Their ethos of bringing Chinese culture and craftsmanship to life in a manner that connects with new audiences has proven effective thanks to their methodical approach to getting the small details right. It’s also worth noting that they are bringing together true Chinese artisans to bring their vision to life in an authentic manner, providing a strong foundation to build on in the process. 

Taking a step back, this isn’t a brand defined by its two founders. The vision being laid out sits on generations of history and serves a celebration of the people and culture that created that history. These are watches that walk a fine line proper representation while understanding the demands and trends of the enthusiast space. It’s almost impossible to reflect on these watches outside of that context, which feels very much by design, but if you could, you’d still be left with something special. You can learn more about the brand at atelierwen.com