Seiko 5 Sports SSK023 Review: A Versatile, Vintage-Look GMT Under $500

Let's begin this review of the Seiko 5 GMT Sports SSK023 with a spirited chant: "NWA! NWA!"

No, I’m not the hype man for the groundbreaking ‘90s hip-hop act. It’s a New Watch Alert, and all kidding aside, I went and bought a watch, something I haven’t done since I picked up my Doxa Sub 200T Divingstar last year. In spite of my attraction to that yellow-dialed wrist magnet, there’s a new contender in my regular rotation, and it’s not Swiss. Nope, I’ve gone and picked up a new Seiko 5 GMT Sports model, and it’s getting an awful lot of my attention. I’ve fallen hard for the SSK023, probably the most basic four-hander in the Japanese brand's catalog, and I couldn’t be happier.

Now, this is hardly my first Seiko rodeo. I’m a longtime fan whose gateway was an old-school 6309-7049, the famed "Turtle" dive watch, discovered by my wife in a mom & pop jewelry store for a mere hundred bucks. It’s not even my first Seiko 5 spin around the block, and I’ve got the SNXJ89, Seiko’s budget take on a classic silver-dialed Datejust, to prove it. However, it is my first Seiko 5 Sports watch with the new-era logo. Prior to the SSK023, I did snag the 55th Anniversary LE, the SRPK17, and it’s everything it’s advertised to be, with its note-perfect re-creation of the very first Seiko 5 Sports model from 1968. That tonneau-cased beauty is a banger, down to the original Seiko 5 shield logo, but the SNK023 represents my first real dip into the modern Seiko 5 pool, and I gotta say, the water feels nice. 

Seiko 5 Sports SSK023/Case & Wear:

First things first: if you believe there’s no school like the old school, this is your Seiko 5 GMT. The function-over-form aesthetics, the fixed bezel, the full brush of the finishing, and the no-frills, white-on-black sobriety of the dial all conspire to tingle my watch-nerd Spidey sense, whispering, “It’s vintage…”. I have to admit, I’m less drawn to the SKX-style cases (which we have gotten into here) of much of the Seiko 5 Sports lineup, although I like them very much and think they work well for the huge variety of model variants that have followed their introduction. But what can I say? The retro vibe of this particular case really has my number. While it doesn’t mimic the Rolex 1655 "McQueen," much less the Tudor Black Bay Pro, it has that same aura. The fixed 24-hour bezel cements the look firmly in the ‘70s, and the fact that the case dimensions are a taut 39.4mm across by 47.9mm from lug-to-lug (with a respectable and well-disguised 13.6mm case height) helps the SSK023 wear rather tidily on my 7-inch wrist. Seiko calls this a field GMT. I just call it what it is: one handsome rogue.

Several other factors fill up the plus column pretty quickly for me, including the drilled lugs (why don’t more companies do this?), the gently-domed Hardlex crystal, the 3 o’clock push/pull crown that manages a low profile while remaining easy to grip, not to mention the 100 meters of water resistance achieved without screwing down said crown. It’s just so easy to put a wind on this watch, without having to unscrew the crown, or fight with a less-than-ideal texture. These little things pay big dividends in terms of the daily experience, as convenience and ergonomics spell the difference — between something you love and use all the time without thinking versus something that irritates like an itch you can never scratch. If there’s one little detail that bugs me about a watch, the end is near. That mild annoyance breeds subconscious resentment, which in turn prevents you from reaching for it, eventually sealing its fate as it’s kicked off the horological island.

Where the Seiko 5 Sports range often shaves a bit close to the bone is with its bracelets, and that’s the case here. It’s a longstanding Seiko 5 tradition, with vintage models typically utilizing rolled links, which I find to be part of the watches' charm. But because modern watches tend to be more substantive, this sort of bracelet feels rather unbalanced, so I’m happy to report that there’s no tinny feel here. Does it offer a vaultlike build? No, as the links, while far more refined, still feel a bit on the lightweight side. But it’s the clasp that shows the most obvious cost-cutting. The construction is fully stamped, a stark contrast to the more premium feel of a milled clasp. However, the dual push-buttons and fliplock render the bracelet reassuringly secure, and I’ve never once felt like it would fail me. It works just fine, even if it feels a bit lowbrow. I just chalk it up to vintage charm, and besides, the drilled lugs and 20mm width makes it a snap to swap the watch onto a strap, which I highly encourage. I’ve worn the SSK023 with everything from vintage tan two-stitch leather to olive-colored canvas, and this thing looks great on just about anything.

Seiko 5 Sports SSK023/ Dial:

If you’ve seen the Seiko 5 Sports SRPG27 field watch before, the Seiko 5 GMT SSK023’s dial will look very familiar. Apart from the extra hand, an orange tip on the second hand instead of red, the omission of the day window, and the addition of "GMT" under "automatic," it’s pretty much the same. But the bold GMT hand combines with the fixed bezel to make this a completely different-feeling watch, at least in my eyes. Maybe it’s the particular shade of orange on the hands that shoots me hurtling backward into the late ‘60s and early ‘70s, when brands like Heuer, Rolex, and Breitling accented their own handsets in that blazing hue. Whatever the reason, the SSK023 wouldn’t look out of place on the antihero’s wrist in a classic ‘70s heist movie. When paired with a worn-in leather strap, it genuinely feels like a vintage piece, something many contemporary watches just can’t pull off.

The dial offers a matte black finish that veers toward charcoal, a subdued backdrop for the off-white and silver markings, which include an outer minute track, slightly raised Arabic hour markers, and an inner 24-hour scale in military format. If I have any nits to pick with this watch, it’s my preference for the old shield logo, but that’s just my own personal hangup, and the new "Superman" 5 logo is rendered in a subtle fashion. There’s a silver frame surrounding the date window, and while I appreciate that the Seiko 5 range typically includes a day/date complication, the decision to leave it off is one I enthusiastically support.

As far as night vision goes, Seiko made the odd choice not to lume the Arabic numerals, but rather, just the small square dots located within the minute track. As a result of that limited real estate, their glow is just meh, but in practice, I’ve had no trouble reading the time when the lights go down. That’s because the Lumibrite within the handset comports itself quite well for a budget-baller timepiece. While it doesn’t offer the retina-searing visual blast furnace of some Prospex divers, it’ll stay visible for a good while, aided by the width of the pencil hands. I can’t tell you how much I appreciate this watch’s legibility, and I suspect that one reason I’ve been reaching for it so often is the fact that I can easily read it, even without my glasses. The GMT hand boasts a good amount of glow, too, perfect for timing those Slack messages to an overseas colleague without rousing them from their slumber. And for those looking for something a bit different, there are two other variants of this model out in the wild. First, a blacked out version, the SSK025, which only comes on a strap. And if you’re willing to do a little searching, there’s a white-dialed JDM market version, the SBSC009, which nails the "Polar" vibe of the Explorer II.

Seiko 5 Sports SSK023/Movement:

Since their introduction, Seiko 5s have been beloved for many reasons, and one of the previous generation’s attributes was the plucky nature of the reliable 7S calibers used throughout much of Seiko’s lineup. Veteran watch collectors regale the young with tales of well-loved Seikos, with their stout 7S26 hearts still beating after 20-plus years without a service (not that I endorse this). With the retirement of the shield logo-era 5 lineup, not to mention the much-lamented discontinuation of the SKX, the present-day equivalent is the 4R series. The SSK023 utilizes the 4R34, a date-only “office GMT” variant that eschews the day wheel of the 4R36, and one of the movements that sparked the current revolution in under-$500 GMTs. Seiko rates the accuracy of these movements between +45 /-35 seconds per day, which is pretty conservative, as examples in the wild typically perform much better. Incidentally, mine is running within chronometer specs at the moment, but this is pure luck rather than the norm. Still, I’ll take it. 

These calibers are the spiritual successors of the 7S, with a 3-Hertz rate and a middle-of-the-road 41-hour power reserve, but the takeaway here is that these things just go and go with nary a complaint. There’s not much else to say, and they’re not much to look at, but you can, courtesy of the exhibition caseback, which honestly, brings me back to the wide-eyed moment when I bought my first Seiko 5 back in 1999. Watching that balance wheel do its thing brings a smile to my face that reminds me of my collecting journey. And no, my original 5 has never been serviced :).

Some Final Thoughts:

In conclusion, here are my takeaways when considering the Seiko 5 GMT SSK023, starting with some possible cons, followed by what I absolutely adore about it. 

No, it’s not a “true” GMT movement, as many naysayers complain, but this is the standard-bearer for 24-hour calibers that retail for under $500, in this case, a mere $435 (and usually less). Along with Miyota, Seiko has created a new market segment, the entry-level mechanical GMT, and the watch-collecting community is better for it. Other points to consider include the pressed clasp, which feels a bit low-rent compared to a milled one, but functions perfectly well. Finally, the case height is a bit on the thicker side, falling in between Tudor’s slimmer Black Bay 58 GMT, and its Black Bay Pro, just for reference. But honestly, due to the case’s architecture, including the slope of the fixed bezel, it’s doubtful you’ll feel it. I’m wearing the watch regularly, and not once have I felt it was too thick. 

Now, onto the highlight reel that sold me on the SSK023, which continues to delight my sensibilities the more I wear it. Above all else, this is a watch that looks properly vintage, not ersatz vintage. Between the fully brushed case treatment, the “just the facts” vibe of the black dial punctuated by those vibrant slashes of orange, and the fixed engraved bezel, this baby would look right at home on the wrist of an action hero behind the wheel of a 1972 Dodge Challenger, its Hemi V8 at full bark. In addition, the Seiko 5 GMT SSK023 is just so easy to wear, with its great size, versatile style, and those drilled lugs that make strap changes a breeze. The 4R34 movement is a dependable caliber, and you can brag to your friends that it’s in-house, a claim not many brands can make in this tier. Add it all up, and you’ve got a real winner, one that offers a ton of style while going easy on your wallet. You can learn more over at seikowatches.com