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Specifications: Price: $525, Case Size: 47.8mm, Thickness: 13.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50.5mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Seiko Quartz H851, Crystal: Hardlex
The original watch that inspired the SNJ025 was the 1982 release, the H558-5000, and was Seiko’s first dive watch with an integrated digital display and audible alarm complications. Given the two part case, smaller than you’d expect 40mm bezel diameter, the sloping nature of the plastic shroud, and a rather condensed lug-to-lug given the diameter, the watch wears smaller than the dimensions suggest. Despite the amount of information offered, the dial is surprisingly clean, highlighted, perhaps, by the large lumed markers.
Specification: Price: $595, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 12.8mm, Lug-to-Lug: 50mm, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Automatic Miyota 8204, Power Reserve: 40 Hours, Crystal: Sapphire
Deriving its nickname from the Japanese word for a puffer fish — a reference to the distinctively grooved shape of the rotating divers’ bezel — the “Fugu” model from Citizen’s diverse Promaster Diver family originally debuted in 1989 and was revived for modern audiences in 2018. The hefty steel case (44mm) features a textured screw-down at the unusual position of 8 o’clock, which prevents it from poking into the small of a diver’s wrist. The hands and hour indexes are thick and brightly lumed for underwater legibility; at 3 o’clock, the hour marker gives way to a day-date window with an eye-catching bicolor design (red print for the day, black for the date). Behind a caseback engraved with an illustration of a puffer fish is the automatic movement, the Japanese Miyota 8204.
Specifications: Versions: Blue Dial, Black Dial, PVD Black; Case Size: 39 mm; Case Height: 11.9 mm; Movement: Automatic Miyota 9039; Price: €650 (~ $730);
Baltic made a big splash this year for more than one reason, catching the attention of the collecting community with a huge OnlyWatch result, while also releasing one of the better values for a compressor-style dive watch, equipped with a non-screwdown 2 o’clock crown for easy engagement underwater. Three initial options are available for this brand new model. The movement is identical between Aquascaphe options with the rock solid Miyota 9039.
Reference: NB6004-08E; Case Size: 46 mm; Case Height: 15.3 mm; Lug-to-Lug: 51 mm, Movement: Automatic Citizen Cal. 9051; Price: $1050;
The wildly popular Citizen Promaster collection added a mechanical diver in the form of a 46mm titanium case with the reference NA6004-08E this year. It’s a big move that should keep Citizen fans happy while potentially bringing some new eyeballs to the collection who enjoy such mechanical timekeepers. A new movement is debuting in this model as well, the in-house Caliber 9051. As the name also suggests, underwater abilities up to 20bars/200m is possible and all of that dial lume should keep the NA6004 well lit in the dark.
Oris debuted the in-house Caliber 400 in its best-selling Aquis lineup in 2021 across several different case sizes, including perhaps the most well proportioned 41.5mm version. Visually, not much has changed from the previous generation, which is smart as the design is both a signature for the brand and generally good looking. A step up in price positions the brand to take on Tudor more directly, and it's a competition we welcome. The new movement offers 120 hours of power reserve and is backed by a comprehensive 10-year warranty after online registration of the timepiece.
Specifications: Price: $3,900, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 12.6mm, Lug-to-Lug: 51.4mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Auto MT5602, Crystal: Sapphire
Rumors swirled in late summer 2021 among Tudor enthusiasts of a new Pelagos with ties to the French Marine Nationale, after an Instagram post by famed brand ambassador David Beckham posted a teaser in his stories and a dealer posted a military-issued version of this previously unknown model. Fast forward a few months and here we have the 42m Pelagos FXD with its fixed lugs and the pass-through NATO attachment. The MT5602 movement offers a high level of performance with rugged capabilities.
Specification: Price: $9,450, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 13.1mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 200m, Movement: Automatic Jaeger-LeCoultre caliber 899, Crystal: Sapphire
Jaeger-LeCoultre introduced the original Memovox Polaris in 1968 as the first diver’s watch outfitted with a mechanical alarm function. Its successor, introduced in 2018 and called simply the Polaris, leaves out the alarm but retains other notable elements from the original, including the case’s dual crowns, one of which is used to operate a rotating inner bezel. The dial of the most recent model consists of three concentric circles with contrasting finishes: sunray in the center, graining on the outer circle with its vintage-inspired Arabic numerals, and opaline for the rotating inner rotating bezel flange — and dazzles the eye with its lacquered, deep green double-gradient finish. Ticking inside the 42mm stainless steel case is Jaeger-LeCoultre’s self-winding manufacture Caliber 899, which bestows the watch a respectable 70-hour power reserve.
Specification: Price: $10,500 - $25,200, Case Size: 43.6mm, Case Thickness: 13mm, Lug Width: 23mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Automatic Caliber 1315
The Fifty Fathoms Bathyscaphe is named for the undersea vehicle invented by Auguste Piccard that was launched in 1953, the same year the first Fifty Fathoms debuted. This more vintage-oriented version of the iconic Fifty Fathoms is smaller (43.6mm) and takes its cues from models of the later 1950s, with the same distinctive handset, 4:30 date window, simple geometric hour markers, and luminous dot on the bezel for orientation, a detail originally requested by the French military. The unidirectional dive-scale bezel uses Liquidmetal, an amorphous metal alloy that bonds with the ceramic insert to enhance its scratch resistance; inside the 300-meter water resistant case is the ultra-modern Caliber 1315, among whose technical attributes is an uncommonly long 120-hour power reserve.
Tissot's most ruggedly attractive dive watch to date entices deep-sea enthusiasts with its integrated helium release valve at 9 o’clock, unidirectional dive-scale bezel with engraved ceramic insert, and its most eye-catching element, a turquoise-blue gradient dial with a maritime-inspired, engraved wave motif The watch’s 46-mm stainless steel case is water-resistant to a very "professional" 600 meters and has an imposing wrist presence, at 16.25 mm thick, with a large screw-down crown and its guards. The date appears in a metallic framed window at 6 o’clock. Tissot has installed one of its most high-end movements inside the Seastar Professional 2000 — the Swatch Group-exclusive Powermatic 80, which is based on the standard ETA 2824 but as per its name boasts an increased power reserve of 80 hours, thanks mainly to a clever reduction of its balance frequency, from 28,800 to 21,600 vph.
Specifications: Price: $1,870, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 14.45mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 600m, Movement: Automatic Titoni T110, Power Reserve: 72 Hours, Crystal: Sapphire
Originally released in the 1960s under the brand name Felca (Titoni’s parent firm), the Seascoper was one of the first popular models for recreational divers. The modern version matches a stainless steel case with a unidirectional rotating bezel made of ceramic and bearing an eye-catching red sector for the first 15 minutes of the dive scale. Also equipped with a helium release valve, the case’s 600-meter water resistance is ensured by a special gasket system. The automatic movement inside, behind a porthole-shaped sapphire caseback window, is Titoni’s own Caliber T110, a COSC-certified chronometer.
Price: $1,140 - $1,250, Case Size: 42.5mm, Thickness: 12.3mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Automatic Mido Caliber 80
Wildly popular in Latin America but just beginning to break through with many watch aficionados in the U.S., Mido has been making watches since 1918 and its nautically inspired Ocean Star line has been around since the 1940s, even before the era of the modern diver’s watch. The “C” at the end of Ocean Star 200C models’ name stands for “ceramic,” the material used for their engraved divers’ bezels that elevates them to a higher level of sporty luxury. The dials, which are color-matched to the bezels, feature an attractive rippled texture that calls to mind ocean waves. The dial’s circular hour markers, inverted triangle at 12 o’clock, and partially openworked hands are coated with Super-LumiNova, The stainless steel case measures 42.5mm in diameter and around 12mm thick and connects to a bracelet with an array of brushed and polished finishes. The ETA-based automatic Caliber 80 powers the watch’s timekeeping and day/date functions as it ticks behind a solid caseback with a polished relief starfish.
Price: $1,375, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 11.9mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Longines Caliber L888
The Longines HydroConquest builds upon the design of the company’s sport-luxury Conquest design for a more sport-oriented aesthetic, one aimed squarely at divers and those looking to emulate their look. The Hydroconquest offers case case sizes that range from 39mm (12.9mm thick), to 41mm (11.9mm thick) to 43mm (also 11.9mm), all equipped with automatic movements. The watch’s unidirectional ratcheting bezel has a 60-minute dive-scale insert, with the first 15-minute sector delineated by minute markers and Arabic numerals at each subsequent 10-minute interval. The sword handset of the original (non-diver) Conquest model is here replaced by a short, faceted hour hand with a luminous diamond-shaped bulge, a baton minute hand, and a lollipop-style sweep seconds hand. The 300-meter water resistant case contains the Longines-exclusive Caliber L888, built upon the ETA L31.L11 base movement and souped up with a 72-hour power reserve.
Price: $7,700, Case Size: 37mm, Thickness: 15.5mm, Lug Width: 23mm, Water Resistance: 600 meters, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Elite 670
Zenith launched the Defy collection in 1969, the same milestone year the venerable Swiss manufacture made its most significant contribution to horological history with the debut of El Primero, the world’s first self-winding, high-frequency chronograph caliber. The Defy Ref. A3648, the family’s first dive watch, hit the market the same year. Zenith revived the cult-classic diver in 2024, with a period-appropriate, 37mm steel case in the angular, octagonal shape of the original Defy family. The watch’s stationary 14-sided bezel is positioned above a rotating steel bezel with a dive scale on an orange insert made of sapphire. The black markings on the orange insert matches the color scheme of the vintage watch’s scale, and the screw-down crown, unconventionally placed at 4 o’clock, also echoes the 1969 model’s design. Notably, the Revival model achieves the same water-resistance rating as its ancestor: 600 meters, a level that was quite impressive back in 1969 and still uncommon in dive watches today. (And go figure: 600 meters is also equivalent to 1,969 feet, making for a serendipitous reference to the Defy’s launch year.)
Price: $11,600, Case Size: 43.8mm, Thickness: 13.8mm, Lug Width: 23mm, Water Resistance: 200m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Spring Drive Caliber 9RA5
Following Grand Seiko’s 2022 launch of its Evolution 9 collection, which takes inspiration from a trend-setting model from 1967, the Japanese manufacture released a new, luxuriously appointed divers’ watch with an entirely new dial texture in 2023. The Ref. SLGA203 “Ushio” (from the Japanese word for “tide”) is distinguished by its 43.8mm case made of high-intensity titanium, its blue rotating divers’ bezel made of ceramic, and by the cascading-waves dial texture that lends it its name, which visually references the ocean currents in the coastal waters of Japan. The prominent hands and markers are all coated in Lumibrite, helping to maintain legibility deep underwater, to a depth of 200 meters. Beating inside is the Spring Drive Caliber 9R05, with five full days of power reserve stored in two barrels. Caliber 9RA5 is the first Spring Drive movement equipped with a sensor to monitor its internal temperature and to compensate for any related changes in the crystal’s oscillation rate: now, that’s luxury.
Price: $27,000, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 16mm, Water Resistance: 200m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Caliber UN-372
Ulysse Nardin has a unique heritage that blends a historical connection to seafaring, as maker of marine chronometers for the world’s navies in the 19th and 20th centuries, and a modern devotion to avant-garde horological innovation. Both disciplines come together in the Diver X Skeleton, here in a titanium case, with white rubber for its diving-bezel insert and its strap, and a dial-side view of the self-winding, openworked UN-372 caliber. Ulysse Nardin makes other high-end dive watches, particularly in its Marine collection, but this model’s exceedingly rare marriage of dive watch and skeleton watch earns it a spot on this list of notables. The “X” that dominates the skeleton dial has a tiered construction that allows it to anchor the hands and hour markers, which appear to float above the technical depths of the dial. As with most Ulysse Nardin movements, Caliber UN-372 is loaded with silicon parts for greater magnetic resistance and a substantial power reserve — in this case, a full 96 hours.
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25 Comments
Thanks for sharing!
Hello!
Just wanted to say you might want to take a look at the prices you have listed on the Bulova Devil Diver.
They way you have this listed, it looks like you are placing a $239 increase in price over the MSRP.
You’re showing the watch costs $795, but in the specifications state it should be $556. An amazon search has it at $450.
How come no Longines Hydroconquest !?
Should have definitely been on the list… I own one and it’s great! Gives the much more expensive Tudor Black Bay a run for its money.
Maybe add a Ball to the list? Tritium tubes are really nice. I really enjoy the Engineer Master II Diver Chronometer!
I swear I looked at the list! Thanks for having a Ball on there!
Might want to consider adding one of the Helm diving watches. 300M ISO certified.
Excellent compilation. One item of note – you list some specs of the Longines Legend 42mm under the entry for the 36mm version.
Great article! One correction. The Omega 300 dimensions are incorrect. The older version is 14.5mm thick. The one pictured here is 13.7mm.
I don’t see the Mido Oceanstar 200 series here. Any reason why thay did not make the cut?
Where’s the heck is Mido?
Love my Seiko SPB143 except for the garbage movement. Watch is 1 year old and runs 35 seconds slow per day. Sent to Seiko for warranty repair and they made up excuses to dodge repairing it under warranty because the AD didn’t completely fill out the warranty card. Will never buy another Seiko product again
Shouldn’t the orient kamasu be on this list?
Teddy thanks for all your video’s and the information, only one cuestión: in you expert opinion
Tudor or Omega sea-master has a better reputation?
I see and read every video love it
Thank you 👋🏻
No Mido, Teddy?
The Diver 300M has a 300M water resistance not 200M. Also on Rolex “While it is obviously overexposed and at the some time near unobtainable lately,..” it’s same time not some time.
Great video and very informative article!
How about having a look at the Nivada Grenchen Depthmaster “Pac-Man” Re-Edition?
The IWC Aquatimer is one of the best diving watches. It should have been included in your list.
Moreover, it’s history (design created by Ferdinand Porsche who designed the 911), quality and finish make it a fantastic watch. For instance check the current version with a blue dial.
No Omega Planet Ocean?? If you’re gonna have 2 Omegas on this list, I’d say it should be the Seamaster 300 Diver and the Planet Ocean.
Hello, have you ever reviewed the Gevril Wall Street divers watch?
Hi, i have seen online that seiko has bad quality control with inaccuracy of their automatic movement and build quality to a certain extend. Kindly comment as I plan to buy a Seiko Presage or Seiko 5 soon.
Casio Duro (MDV106 or MDV107) should be on the list.
Another wonderful review. Really pleased to see you included the Titoni. I think it is a fantastic value. It has however increased in price from the $1,870 (which I paid) to now a bit above 2K.
Great blog!
The Mühle Glashütte ProMare Go is absolutely stunning…what caught my eye was the work on the strap that matched the case and dial….well taught out from A to Z…at 42mm perfect for any size wrist….bravo