Oris Divers Date: The Modern Evolution of a Retro Dive Watch

Oris in the modern era has made it a point to offer two distinct takes on the dive watch. On one side is the Aquis collection, the modern and forward-looking side of its work, with muscular cases and the look of purpose-built instruments. On the other is the Divers collection, where the watches are generally smaller and more relaxed, their designs tied closer to the brand’s past and appeal rooted as much in motion as in specs. The Oris Divers Date, introduced in 2024 and expanded with an olive-green dial earlier this year, bridges the gap between those two sides. It retains the easygoing character that made the Divers Sixty-Five one of Oris’s most recognizable watches, but adds the water resistance, ceramic bezel, and sturdier construction expected of a modern diver. The shortened name reflects that evolution, signaling a watch no longer defined solely by its 1965 inspiration.

Oris entered the dive-watch category in 1965, just as recreational scuba diving was becoming more accessible. Its first model followed the compact “skin diver” formula common to the period, with a case measuring roughly 36mm, a rotating timing bezel, and a highly legible black dial. Large luminous markers and blocky numerals at the quarter hours gave it a look that was practical but hardly generic. Vintage divers often shared the same basic equipment, so identity came down to a few details. For the 1965 Oris (examples above), those were its squared-off numerals, broad luminous indications, domed crystal, and slim case. It was an aesthetic that looked clearly of its time, but distinct enough to avoid disappearing into the crowd.

Fifty years later, Oris brought the design back as the Divers Sixty-Five. The 2015 release re-created the original model’s unusual dial design and lean profile while increasing its roughly 36mm diameter to 40mm. A domed sapphire crystal offered some of the distortion and warmth of vintage acrylic without its scratch-prone vulnerability. Inside, the ancestor’s hand-wound Caliber 654 gave way to the contemporary, automatic Caliber 733, a dependable, easily serviced movement that helped bring the watch into modern daily use.

The Sixty-Five’s vintage focus also shaped its capabilities. Oris depth-rated it to 100 meters — sturdy enough for swimming and casual use but modest alongside the 200- and 300-meter ratings common among contemporary divers. The tradeoff made more sense on the wrist, where the slim, comfortable case felt closer to a well-preserved vintage watch than a modern tool watch dressed up to look old.

What began as a faithful revival grew at remarkable speed. By May 2020, only five years after its relaunch, the Divers Sixty-Five had grown to more than 50 references. Oris spread the design across multiple case sizes, bronze editions, chronographs, collaborations, and a wide range of colors, later adding models powered by the brand’s in-house Caliber 400 in 2021. Many editions also moved away from the original quarter numerals in favor of familiar dots and batons. With so much variation, the Divers Sixty-Five became a vintage-inspired design language rather than a re-creation of one 1965 reference.

By 2024, the collection had outgrown its original premise. Enter the Oris Divers Date, a follow-up with a name and capabilities better suited to what the collection had become. The update began with a 39mm steel case, positioned between the 36mm original and the first 40mm revival. At 46.5mm lug to lug and 12.1mm thick, it remains relatively compact by modern dive-watch standards.

Beyond those revised proportions, Oris addressed the Divers Sixty-Five’s practical limitations. Water resistance doubled to 200 meters, and the bezel now uses a ceramic insert that will resist the scratches and fading that eventually mark aluminum. More sharply defined fluting makes the bezel easier to operate, while the domed sapphire crystal preserves the watch’s strongest vintage cue. Oris also reworked the rivet-style bracelet and clasp, then added quick-release fittings to it and the included black rubber strap. The bracelet plays up the mid-century styling, while rubber makes more sense around water and gives the watch a sportier personality.

The dial is where the break from 1965 becomes clearest. Applied, beveled markers replace the original’s quirky quarter-numerals, while a condensed typeface and date window at 6 o’clock give the watch a cleaner, more orderly face. It’s easier to read and probably easier to live with, though less distinctive than the first Sixty-Five, with a little less oddball charm. 

Inside, the Sellita-based Oris Caliber 733-1 runs at 4 Hz, offers a 41-hour power reserve, and is visible through a mineral-glass caseback. It’s proven and easily serviced, but at $2,800, it’s also the watch’s clearest compromise. Oris’s five-day Caliber 400 has made a 41-hour power reserve feel ordinary, even if the 733-1 keeps the price below versions powered by the brand’s in-house movement.

The regular collection includes black, blue, brown, and olive-green dials, all with black ceramic bezels, steel bracelets, and rubber straps. Black is the most versatile, blue feels the most contemporary, olive leans hardest into the vintage-tool character, and brown adds warmth without feeling overtly nostalgic. The series’ first collaboration, the Oris x RedBar Limited Edition II, pairs a gradient red dial with a no-date display. It is limited to 250 pieces and priced at $2,950.

The first Divers Sixty-Five succeeded because it was so specific. The 1965 watch behind it was immediately visible, and the modern re-edition arrived just as vintage-inspired designs were rapidly gaining traction in the market. A decade later, the Oris Divers Date takes a new approach, carrying the old watch’s proportions and mood into a more technically capable package. Some vintage character has arguably been lost in the process, but the added utility makes that trade worthwhile for many. You can learn more at oris.ch