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When considering the most versatile watch brands in terms of both global reach and variety within their own brand portfolio, it’s difficult to identify a brand that surpasses Seiko, which offers a wide range of styles from dressy to sporty to space-age high-tech and all for very accessible prices. In this blog, we list our choices for the best Seiko watches in all the brand's major families.
When considering the most versatile watch brands in terms of both global reach and variety within their own brand portfolio, it’s difficult to identify a brand that surpasses Seiko. In 1881, a young entrepreneur by the name of Kintaro Hattorri (pictured below), opened up a shop in Tokyo's Ginza where he sold and repaired watches and clocks. At just 21 years old, Hattori took a massive risk in hopes of creating something bigger. These hopes were realized in the coming century as the watch brand he created established numerous watchmaking milestones and eventually changed the course of the entire watch industry with the release of the legendary Astron, the world's first quartz wristwatch, in 1969.
There is little secret to the level of value that is typically associated with the Seiko 5 collection. This collection has served as a gateway for many collectors with the amount of variety presented to those looking to make their first purchase into the world of mechanical watches. And no, we are not exaggerating, there have been hundreds of Seiko 5 models produced over the years and I envision dedicating an entire blog overviewing a good portion of those produced, however, in this writeup we wanted to limit the amount featured while still highlighting some of the key references.
References: SNK803, SNK805, SNK807, SNK809
Specifications: Price: $75-$100, Case Size: 37 mm, Thickness: 11 mm, Lug Width: 18 mm, Lug-to-Lug: 43 mm, Water Resistance: 30 m, Movement: Auto Seiko 7S26, Power Reserve: 40 Hours, Crystal: Hardlex
The Seiko 5 SNK800s are perhaps the most ubiquitous Seiko 5 models on the market today. This level of popularity is achieved as a result of doing something right. For under $100, these watches have become a great casual everyday wearer. Within you are getting their 7S26 automatic movement that just simply runs. I have owned a few of these over the years and I have always enjoyed having them given their ability to work in a variety of situations while not leaving that much damage on the checking account.
Years ago, Seiko launched the SNK and SNZG collections, models that were considered by many to be some of the best in their price range when it came to automatic field watches. Although at a slightly higher price point, the follow-up SRPG27 might be even better. Coming in at $275, the SRPG27 offers a proportioned 39.4mm case that slides in nicely between the 37mm and 42mm offered by its predecessors, while also getting a movement upgrade from the outdated 7S26 to the hacking and handwinding 4R36. Compared to more rugged designs like the Bulova Hack and even the Hamilton Khaki, the SRPG27 is also somewhat more refined, making it a versatile and affordable field watch to consider.
When Seiko retired the SKX lineup in 2019, it quickly followed up with an updated Seiko 5 range including the SRPD51, which retains some of the charm and design language from the SKX, but with scaled back specs to accommodate the price point while also creating some separation from the Prospex series where Seiko has focused seemingly focused its hardcore dive watch efforts. Are these new Seiko 5s a replacement for the SKX? No, that’s probably a better designation for the current iteration of the Turtle. However, this SRPD51 is a worthy sports timepiece with an automatic 4R36 movement, solid construction, and great lume, all at an affordable price.
Seiko fans are some of the best at coming up with clever nicknames, but we don’t think we can give them too much credit for this one considering how easy it is to call this one as it is. This line of references is known as the Bottlecaps as a result of their bezels and are some of the most unique of any of the Seiko 5 watches that are on the market given their sizing that wears much larger than the typical Seiko 5 and their use of their 4R36 movement within, which is fully hackable and features hand-winding, unlike that of the 7S26.
Specifications: Reference: SNZF17 Price: $150-$200, Case Size: 45 mm, Thickness: 13 mm, Lug Width: 22 mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49 mm, Water Resistance: 100 m, Movement: Auto Seiko 4R36, Power Reserve: 41 hours, Crystal: Hardlex
Specifications: Reference: SSK003, Price: $475, Case Size: 42.5mm, Thickness: 13.4mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 100 m, Movement: Automatic Seiko 4R34
Seiko introduced the first GMT complication to the Seiko 5 sports line in 2022, equipping the watches with the automatic Caliber 4R34. Available in three colorways for the dial and bezel — black, orange, and the blue version pictured here — the watches have a central GMT hand in a contrasting color, used in coordination with the bicolor day/night bezels, with rings made of Hardlex glass like the crystal, to indicate a second time zone. The GMT hand is coated in Seiko’s proprietary LumiBrite for nighttime legibility. Based on the design of the much-beloved SKX series of Seiko sports watches, the model has a five-link bracelet with polished middle rows.
Seiko 5 Sports Midfield 36mm SRPJ81K1Specifications: Reference: SRPJ1K1, Price: $295, Case Size: 36.37mm, Thickness: 12.52mm, Lug-to-Lug: 44.43mm, Lug Width: 18mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Hardlex, Movement: Automatic Seiko Caliber 4R36
Another recent revival of a discontinued fan-favorite — namely the SNK 800 line of affordable, modestly dimensioned field watches — the 5 Sports Midfield evokes both nostalgia and a utilitarian military vibe. Its 36mm case distinguishes it from the larger field watches in the Seiko 5 Sports collection, from the SBSA family. The case’s matte, bead-blasted finish adds to its understated appeal and the dial’s inner 24-hour scale speaks to the early military-worn timepieces that inspired its design. The sturdy, reliable automatic movement includes a hacking seconds function, another useful element of watches worn by grunts on the battlefield. The Midfield models are offered in several colorways and with several bracelet and strap options including a nylon NATO.
Seiko 5 Sports SRPK31 38mm Reference: SRPK31, Price: $325, Case Size: 38mm, Thickness: 12.1mm, Lug-to-Lug: 44.2mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Hardlex, Movement: Automatic Seiko Caliber 4R36
Building on the success of the revived 5 Sports models are a quartet of watches launched in 2023 with reduced case dimensions of 38mm and an array of colorful dials. Like their predecessors, the watches evoke many of the beloved SKX elements, such as the unidirectional dive-scale bezel, Lumibrite-coated hands, day-date window at 3 o’clock, crown at 4 o’clock, and exhibition caseback showing off the self-winding 4R36 caliber. Many will find these 38mm models even more versatile and wearable than their larger cousins, especially with the solid three-link steel bracelet.
Seiko 5 Sports Watch SRPK17Specifications: Reference: SRPK17, Price: $415, Case Size: 39.5mm, Thickness: 12.5mm, Lug-to-Lug: 43.1mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Hardlex, Movement: Automatic Seiko Caliber 4R36
Seiko has been mining its archives quite successfully in recent years for new, retro-look models that speak to today’s budding watch enthusiast, and the SRPK17 is one of the most recent examples. Based on the original Seiko 5 model from 1968, it is one of the brand’s most faithful homage pieces, with the period-accurate 39mm case bearing scalloped lugs and a radial-brushed bezel, and the flexible, single-link brushed steel bracelet that undoubtedly gave the original watch a futuristic vibe during the space-race optimism of the late 1960s. The matte-black dial has bright colored details (red seconds hand, blue “Sports”: text at 6 o’clock, baton hands, and the day-date window at 3 o’clock and crown at 4 o’clock that distinguish the contemporary 5 Sports family.
Seiko Samurai
Specifications: Price: $1,650 (approx.), Case Size: 39.5mm, Thickness: 13.6mm, Lug to Lug: 46.4mm, Lug Width: 14mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Automatic 6R54
Seiko unveiled an Asian-market limited edition of the Alpinist GMT model, featuring a dial inspired by the hornbill, a tropical bird of Southeast Asia. Like the three-handed Alpinist models, it belongs to the Prospex “ Land” family and it uses Seiko’s automatic in-house 6R54 caliber. This newest reference, the SPB493J, mixes up the tried-and-true Alpinist formula just enough to stand apart from the rest. This watch uses base blacks set against the steel 39.5mm case and bracelet, with the inclusion of a deep green color for the rotating inner bezel piece. Taken with the gold-colored lume in the hands and hour markers, the watch boasts an interesting array of colors here that complement the eye-catching dial texture.
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer 39mmSpecifications: Reference: SSC813, Price: $675, Case Size: 39mm, Thickness: 13.3mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Seiko Solar Caliber V192
The original Seiko Speedtimer, released in 1969, was among the world’s first self-winding chronograph watches, equipped with the legendary Caliber 6139. When Seiko revived the Speedtimer, as part of its sport-oriented Prospex collection, it decided to eschew the automatic mechanical movement in favor a new, high-tech, solar-powered one, Caliber V192, which enhances reliability and runs up to six months on a single charge from any light source. The tachymeter scale is etched into the stationary bezel, and the dial’s intuitive design uses red detailing for the central seconds hand and the elapsed minutes hand on the 6 o’clock subdial at 6 o’clock for easy reading of the chronograph displays.
Seiko Prospex Speedtimer 42mmSpecifications: Reference: SSC913, Price: $700, Case Size: 41.4mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug-to-Lug: 45.9mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Seiko Solar Caliber V192
Seiko built upon the popularity of its revived Speedtimer models with a new case size and new colorways in 2023. The 42mm cases (actually 41.4mm, with a lug-to-lug measurement of 45.9, just a smidgen up from the 39mm predecessors) are made of stainless steel, with aluminum tachymeter bezel inserts. The color options include a silver-and-black “panda,” a blue dial with red-and-blue “Pepsi” bezel, and a black dial with red-and-black “Coke” bezel. The subdials are subtly translucent, so as to allow light to penetrate and charge the solar movement inside, the same V192 that operates the 39mm Speedtimers. The three-link bracelets fasten to the wrist with a three-fold clasp.
Specifications: Price: $725, Case Size: 41.4mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug to Lug: 45.9mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Solar Quartz V192
One of Seiko’s cult classic sport watches from the 1970s takes its nickname from astronaut Colonel William R. Pogue, who wore one during NASA’s Skylab missions during that decade. The first automatic chronograph to travel to space, it’s become an icon because of its historical bona fides, but also because of its audacious colorway, which stands out from the pack with its red-and-blue bezel insert and a yellowish-gold dial. Seiko resurrected the Pogue’s look in the recently released Speedtimer Solar Chronograph, SSC947, but updated it with one of the brand’s solar-charging quartz movements, Caliber V192. The 41.5mm steel watch, with its bicolor “Pepsi" bezel, features a tachymeter scale with the first portion colored in red and the remaining segment in blue. The dial is in the same radiant golden color as the original, with blue subdials — the one at 6 o’clock, enhanced with a contrasting red hand and displaying a power-reserve indication that lets you know if the watch is fully charged. Once fully charged by sunlight, or any light source, the watch shouldn’t need a recharge for six months.
Seiko Prospex 1968 Diver’s Modern Re-Interpretation GMT SPB381 Specifications: Reference: SPB381, Price: $1,500, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 12.9mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48.6mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 200m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Seiko Caliber 6R54
Seiko uses its popular Marine Master dive watch as the foundation of this vintage-inspired mechanical GMT. The 42mm watch features both a 60-minute dive scale, on its unidirectional rotating bezel with ceramic insert, and a 24-hour GMT scale, on the flange surrounding the dial. Both dial and bezel are executed in a bold, rich green color. The dial’s thick hands and large, geometric hour markers are coated with LumiBrite. The GMT hand, as well as the “GMT” text on the dial, stands out with a yellow-gold finish, and the date pops up in a white window at 4:30, only minimally disturbing the ring of indexes. The automatic 6R54 movement is the first mechanical GMT movement to find a home in a Prospex watch.
Seiko Prospex Sea SNE583/SNE585Specifications: Reference: SNE583, SNE585, Price: $525, Case Size: 38.5mm, Thickness: 10.6mm, Lug-to-Lug: 46.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 30m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Seiko Solar Caliber V147
With the green-dialed Prospex Sea SNE583 (aka the “Baby Hulk”) and blue-dialed SNE585, Seiko fills the niche for a “midsized,” affordable dive watch in the robust Prospex style. The steel cases measure 38.5mm in diameter and just under 11mm thick and are outfitted with Seiko’s Solar Caliber V147, meaning the quartz movement’s battery can be charged through tiny solar panels in the sunburst dial by any light source; it also archives an impressive accuracy of +/- 15 seconds per month. Enthusiasts will love the lume-coated SKX-style hands, 200-meter water resistance, and unidirectional rotating bezel in the same color as the dial.
Seiko Presage Cocktail Time “Negroni” SRPE41Reference: SRPE41, Price: $425, Case Size: 38.5mm, Thickness: 11.8mm, Lug to Lug: 45.4mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Automatic Seiko 4R35
The “Cocktail Time” series within Seiko’s automatic-only Presage family of attainable, attractive dress watches are designed to evoke the types of high-end cocktails served at Japan’s famously atmospheric rooftop bars. This model with a stainless steel case and a radial-textured red dial takes its nickname and inspiration from a classic Negroni. The dial’s ridged, rippling edges help give it the look of a birds-eye view inside the cocktail glass; the tone-on-tone date window is a subtle but impressive bonus at this price point, as is the in-house, automatic movement inside. The 40.5-mm case is topped by a box-shaped crystal made of Seiko’s proprietary Seiko Hardlex material. A specially sculpted crown helps ensure the case’s 50-meter water resistance, and the movement is magnetic-resistant to 4,800 A/m.
Seiko Presage Sharp-Edged GMT SPB217Reference: SPB217, Price: $1,400, Case Size: 42.2mm, Thickness: 13.7mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49.2mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Seiko Caliber 6R64
Seiko introduced the Sharp Edged family, whose members were distinguished by their intriguing textured dials, into the Presage collection in 2020, adding GMT models to the original group of time-and-date watches a year later. At just over 42mm in diameter and just shy of 50mm lug to lug, the Presage Sharp Edged GMT sits comfortably on the wrist thanks to sloping lugs; the case’s finish combines polishing and brushing at a level rarely found at this price point. The GMT bezel that frames the dial is made of steel and coated with Seiko’s fade-resistant DiaShield coating. The dial itself is, of course, the star of the show, with its geometric “Asanoha” textured pattern, an ancient Japanese design motif inspired by hemp leaves. The dial colors also take inspiration from Japan’s natural world, like the “Aitetsu” model pictured, whose tone evokes indigo-colored iron ore.
Price: $1,000, Case Size: 40.2mm, Thickness: 13mm, Lug to Lug: 46mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic 6R55
An understated design and an elegant dial treatment help to make this Seiko Presage Classic model, the Ref. SPB478J1, one of the best values on the market in terms of versatile dress watches. Seiko says that the dial texture is “inspired by unbleached natural Japanese silk, a material which has long featured in Japanese home décor and clothing since ancient times.” This creamy-colored “Shiro-Iro” dial has gold-colored accents, including the markers and hands, which echo the gilt look of the gold-toned ring that surrounds the bezel. Continuing the subtle “almost two-tone” aesthetic is the 1970s-inspired seven-row steel bracelet, whose small pieces allow for supple comfort and movement. The watch, whose nickname in English is “Delicate Cream Silk,” contains the automatic 6R55, with a 3 o’clock date display, an accuracy of -15/+25 seconds per year, and a three-day power reserve.
Price: $2,700, Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 12.4mm, Lug to Lug: 49.5mm, Lug Width: 14mm, Crystal: Hardlex, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Automatic 4R36
Since its high-profile revival in 2012, the Seiko Astron has continuously evolved in both its technical capabilities and in its size and overall aesthetics. The latest and most distinguished in terms of colorway is the Astron GPS Solar Chronograph SSH171, a limited edition of 1,500 pieces that has a glittering, violet-hued dial inspired by “cherry blossoms blooming under the stars.” The watch’s titanium case and bracelet has an extra-hard, scratch-resistant black coating that emphasizes the night-sky motif. that these models are shooting for aesthetically. The chronograph-equipped SSH171 model places its date window at 4:30 and features subdials at 12, 9, and 6 o’clock to host an array of functions, including chronograph readouts (to 1/20th-second), power reserve, a day-of-the-week display, and a dual-time indication. The movement inside, Caliber 5X52, comes from Seiko’s innovative series of quartz movements powered by light and incorporating GPS signal reception for automatic time and time-zone adjustment.
Seiko King Seiko SPB279Reference: SPB279, Price: $1,700, Case Size: 37mm, Thickness: 12.1mm, Lug-to-Lug: 43.6mm, Lug Width: 19mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Automatic Seiko Caliber 6R31
In 2022, Seiko revived this regal-named, cult-classic dress watch originally released in 1965 and considered by many a worthy peer to the even more luxurious Grand Seiko (which, as you are by now aware, is now its own separate brand and thus not represented on this list). The King Seiko certainly holds its own in the arena of elegantly clean design: sleek razor-style faceted hands, understated hour appliqués, retro-style logo at 6 o’clock and no date window to disturb the harmonious symmetry of the sunray dial; the lack of luminous material is a throwback that not everyone will appreciate, but it adds to the period authenticity that fans of the original King Seiko are likely seeking out. The automatic movement, Caliber 6R31, beats behind a caseback engraved with a vintage-style emblem.
Seiko Metronome
Ref. SMW006A, Price: $232, Case Size: 36.5mm, Thickness: 10mm, Lug-to-Lug: 39.6mm, Water Resistance: N/A, Crystal: Sapphire, Movement: Seiko Quartz Caliber
Technically, this is the only watch on the list produced under the banner of Seiko Instruments, the Seiko Watch company’s parent firm, which makes everything from printers to alarm clocks to medical devices, to the musician’s tool that finds an interesting expression in the aptly named Metronome watch. The watch’s countersunk dial features an outer scale to measure musical pitches, just like a desktop metronome device, with the hour and minute hands doubling as the swinging balances that measure pitch and produce audible clicks at regular intervals — a useful function for a musician practicing his or her play to a regular pulse. The user-friendly lower-left pusher on the compact steel case can easily switch the hands from timekeeping to pitch-measuring mode, while the upper left pusher turns on the clicking; the right hand pushers move the speed for the measurements up and down. The Bauhaus-style layout of the dial ensures that the Metronome is appealing even to those who’ve never played a musical instrument.
Prospex Shohei Otani Limited Editions SBEJ023 and SBEJ025 Price: ¥330,000 JPY (about $2,100), Case Size: 42mm, Thickness: 12.9mm, Lug to Lug: 48.6mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: Automatic 6R54
Japanese baseball star Shohei Ohtani of the Los Angeles Dodgers is a known Seiko fan and has partnered with the brand on several special editions. The latest are the SBEJ023 and SBEJ025, both based on the 1968 Heritage Diver’s GMT, released back in 2023 as the first mechanical GMT in the Prospex collection. These two diver GMT watches come in the iconic “Dodger Blue” colorway, with the SBEJ023 having a blue bezel with black dial and the SBEJ025 sporting a blue bezel with contrasting white dial. Both feature Ohtani’s number 17 highlighted in red on the GMT rehaut and his signature engraved on the bracelet clasp. GMT nerds may be a little disappointed with the lack of an independently adjustable hour hand, though the adjustable GMT hand suffices for tracking another time zone. The automatic 6R54 movement has a solid 72-hour power reserve, as well. The SBEJ023 is limited to 1,700 pieces and the SBEJ025 is limited to 500 pieces, and is thus far exclusive to the Japanese market.
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7 Comments
Great article Teddy as always. My wife is heading to Japan and I was inclined to ask her to bring me a Seiko timepiece that would either be just available in the Japanese market or would be a special edition. Any recommendations? My budget is about up to $2K. I like the Presage line but open to other suggestions. Thanks!
Did Seiko stop producing the Kinetic Direct Drive watch? If so, when and why? It seems like an amazing technology to stop being in their line up. Especially as a lower cost alternative to spring drive, that mostly appear in Grand Seiko.
Great post. This is an article I will visit repeatedly; I’m sure. But I don’t understand the absence of the modern Astron. The titanium Astron GPS Solar UTC is my daily work-horse because is does everything, including power itself and find the right time and date, without me even having to touch it. It feels solid but never heavy and has good lume. It is so comfortable I sleep with it on.
I always end the day and start the next day wearing this watch. Depending on the day, I will wear the Astron, a Casio, a Rolex, a Muhle Glashutte, a Doxa or a Zelos. It just depends what is going on during the business day or weekend. But I always put on the Seiko at lease once a day. I can’t say that about any other watch I own. So, I can’t help but ask:
Where is the love for the Seiko Astron???
Did you intentionally omit the Prospex Monster line?
Seiko is the most represented brand in my modest collection, and I love just about everything about them except what I see as a little tardiness in their modern mid-tier movements. I have a new-ish Alpinist with the 6R35, but find its accuracy a bit disappointing given modern computer assisted engineering and the (AU) $1100 price.
I have watched your videos discussing the different seiko watches and their movements. I purchased two Seikos, SRPD89 and SRPE61 both have the 4R36 movements. I’ve been trying to find out more information about winding these watches. When I hand wind it seems like I could rotate the crown clockwise forever without feeling any resistance telling me that it is fully wound. My question is if this is normal or not and how do you know when your watch is fully wound if there is not a feeling of resistance when getting to the point of fully wound. I ask this because when they speak of power reserve when fully wound how would you know if you cannot tell if the watch is fully wound, Thank you.
How do these automatic movements compare with the kinetic movement. I have had 2 kinetics over 24 years and am leary of changing over