Tudor: A Guide to the Modern Collection

A downloadable version of this e-book can be found here. 

In 1926, the name Tudor was trademarked by a watch dealer called Veuve de Philippe Hüther for one Hans Wilsdorf, the very same Hans Wilsdorf of Rolex fame. The goal in establishing Tudor as a separate entity was to give consumers watches of equal craftsmanship to those of the Crown but priced such that more people were able to attain them. Veuve de Philippe Hüther transferred the brand, then named “The TUDOR,” to Wilsdorf fully in a decade after its creation, and it wouldn’t be until a decade after that that Wilsdorf finally created Montres Tudor S.A. – a seminal moment which started an 80-year tradition of Tudor watchmaking.

This book is both a celebration of that ideal, of that history, and also a guide to the brand’s contemporary collection. Here at Teddy Baldassarre, we have delivered a tremendous variety when it comes to video and editorial content surrounding Tudor, and we’d like to consider this book to be an extension of that. I’ve been to the Tudor manufacture in Le Locle on more than one occasion – first in a sit-down with the brand when they opened their archives to us and showed us some of the oldest and rarest Tudor models, and then when I hosted a video explaining how Tudor’s complete supply chain and manufacturing process operates.

The beginning of this book will give you context for the brand’s past, using photos we have taken on the ground in Switzerland with some amazing watches tied to Tudor’s history. We aim to take you on a journey that ultimately pays off when the entire modern collection is laid out in front of you with insight from our best-in-class editorial team. By that point, you will have gained a complete picture of what Tudor is from the Submariner to the Black Bay, from the Big Block to the Blue Flamingo, and everything in between. 

We hope the following pages both surprise and delight you and serve as a reference guide for Tudor for years to come.

Danny Milton 
Bilal Khan 
Erin Wilborn
Mark Bernardo 
Blake Buettner
Jonathan McWhorter 
D.C. Hannay

As with many of the giants in the Swiss watchmaking industry, the legacy of Tudor watches begins in the early 20th century, with the brand name officially being trademarked by the watch company Veuve de Philippe Hüther by Hans Wilsdorf in 1926. If the name Hans Wilsdorf is ringing some bells for you, you’re right on track, as this is the very same man who founded Rolex. For this secondary brand identity, Wilsdorf chose a name that would be short, simple, and memorable on a watch dial, while inspiring a certain feeling of prestige. Thus, the name of one of England’s most reliable and storied dynasties was chosen deliberately to present the new brand. Four years after the brand trademark was filed in Switzerland, the first batches of Tudor watches began to hit the market, with many of the advertising materials focused heavily on the fledgling brand’s connection to Rolex despite its more affordable price point. 

The early Tudor watches of the 1930s were in step with the stylings of the Art Deco movement of the time. A far cry from the robust tool watches that we associate with the brand now, the first brand’s watch models were on the dressy end of the stylistic spectrum, focusing on Art Deco watch cases that were popular in the era, along with elegant dials marked with the initial elongated “T” Tudor logo. In 1936, Hans Wilsdorf acquired the rights to Tudor for himself, taking full ownership of the brand. This move not only further solidified its relationship with Rolex but also gave Wilsdorf an expanded sense of creative control. It was around this time that the Tudor Rose, another important symbol connected to the dynasty, started to be incorporated into the mix of advertising materials and printed on watch dials.

1946 is another pivotal year in the history of Tudor. It was in this year that the trademark that previously existed as a subsidiary of Rolex would become an independent brand in itself. The formation of Montres TUDOR S.A. marked a significant departure from the Crown, branching out both legally and operationally, allowing Tudor to create its own distinct product lines, appeal to a different audience, and expand into new market territories freely, while still benefiting from the inherent connection between the two companies. This also served to benefit Rolex itself as it began to solidify its positioning within the luxury market, while Tudor maintained its emphasis on relative affordability. 

In 1952, Tudor would make a shift with seismic effects that are still being felt even today, and that would be the transition from more formal pieces to the performance-oriented watches with the release of the Tudor Oyster Prince. Combining the Crown’s patented, waterproof Rolex Oyster Case with an outsourced automatic movement (typically from Fleurier and ETA), Tudor’s Oyster Prince became the brand’s flagship model, promising the quality and performance similar to Rolex while keeping the affordable price point that was a key pillar of the Tudor identity. With this move, Tudor was making a bold attempt to establish itself in the tool watch space, and began to be viewed as something akin to the “Working Man’s Rolex.” The first models ranged from 34 mm to 36 mm and featured a new take on the Tudor logo paired with the rose emblem. The marketing campaigns of the time focused heavily on the robustness of the Oyster Prince, emphasizing its toughness through what the brand called “trials of destruction” and “torture tests,” subjecting the watch to feats of strength, like facing the shocks endured while being worn by workmen operating pneumatic drills, and coming out unharmed and fully operational. 

The early 1950s is the definitive era of the first diving watches with the release of the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, followed closely on the heels by Rolex’s own first Submariner in 1953. The stage was set for Tudor to try its own hand at making a dedicated diver’s watch, and in 1954, the brand launched its first diver, which was also conveniently named the Tudor Submariner. Similar to the Oyster Prince, Tudor’s Submariner utilized the Rolex Submariner case, crown, “Mercedes” handset, and bracelet, while using a Swiss ETA movement to keep production costs low and offer a more attainably priced alternative while still achieving 100 meters of water resistance. Tudor’s dive watch chops were to become even more well-recognized with the brand’s subsequent partnership with the French Marine Nationale, which needed dive watches to outfit its nageurs de combat or “combat swimmers.” In 1969, Tudor’s Submariner would further differentiate itself aesthetically from Rolex, swapping out the Mercedes hand for the now-iconic Snowflake hand, which also enhanced legibility underwater.

While Tudor’s connection to Rolex was initially touted as a main touchpoint for the brand, this association proved to be a double-edged sword, particularly in its U.S. reception. With the release of the Crown’s Day-Date, the Crown pushed into aspirational territory, particularly with some wrist service by U.S. leaders, earning the nickname the “President’s Watch” (paired with the President bracelet and in precious metals, of course). After this, the Crown increasingly began to be viewed as a symbol of achievement, which only snowballed through the decades, while the very affordability that set Tudor apart came to make it seem less desirable in comparison. While culturally, the U.S. was shifting to be more upwardly mobile, more geared towards a success-driven (or obsessed) attitude, paired with the rise of mass media and the expanding consumer culture, Tudor’s increasing reputation of being “Rolex’s little brother” became less appealing to the American audience of the time, despite its quality. People wanted a symbol of success more than practicality, and Tudor was effectively overshadowed. 

While the Crown was staunch in its resistance to the proliferation of Quartz movements once they hit the scene, and only produced Oysterquartz models in limited quantities, Tudor took a more pragmatic approach. Though the brand still made mechanical watches, quartz was introduced to several of the brand’s models at an even more affordable price point, once again emphasizing practicality over luxury. While adapting to the changing tides, Tudor managed to weather the storm, but at a price. Rolex was only becoming more integrated into the cultural imagination as the “I made it” watch, while Tudor was further suffering from the reputation of being a budget alternative. Ultimately, the weakened brand perception would eventually lead to the brand backing out of the American market in the tail end of the 1990s, with Tudor watch sales officially departing the U.S. market in 2004, though the brand continued to sell watches in Europe and Asia.

Everyone loves a comeback story, and while Tudor was withdrawn from the U.S., it was gearing up for what would become one of the most successful comebacks in the watch world. While it vanished from the U.S. market, Tudor was quietly working behind the scenes to set itself up for a U.S. relaunch, refining and strengthening its brand identity and positioning. The culture of watch collecting and enthusiasm was also undergoing a time of change, especially as blogging and independent media were rising in the mid-2000s and 2010s, where niche subcultures could accumulate a dedicated audience. The internet gave a space for enthusiasts to come together and appreciate the craftsmanship and intention behind tool-oriented watches, somewhat lost to time, as wristwatches were being largely seen as more obsolete in the broader culture. With the release of the Heritage Chronograph in 2010 and the Heritage Black Bay in 2012, Tudor was already generating buzz with their designs that combined the best of the Tudor design legacy with proportions that spoke to the times, and the two models garnered success in the international market. In 2013, Tudor made its official return to the U.S. and was embraced with open arms by enthusiasts. The brand was finally stepping into the light and out of the Rolex shadow, with a new foundation to successfully expand upon and refine, and the floodgates were officially open for Tudor to stake out its path in the modern watchmaking world, which the brand has been adeptly navigating since. 

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0058_Tudor-9401.jpg?v=1779995446" caption1="9401"]

The Roots

Tudor enjoys the reputation it has today as a premier tool watch manufacturer, thanks to a strong historical foundation. Watches that cut their teeth in the trenches, both metaphorically and, in some cases, literally, create the backbone of how we view and appreciate the modern brand. The breadth of Tudor's history has set the stage for many of the modern collections we know and love, and tracing through this history reveals familiar references and the stories that go with them. This is a brand that has taken a methodical approach to its evolution, careful to preserve the character and characteristics that made these watches so effective in practice.

Identifying the cornerstones of Tudor's history is important to understand where the brand is today and where it may be heading in the future. These are references that have proven influential to the industry as a whole, as well as key parts of Tudor's identity, and each has a story to tell.

The Divers

Tudor's modern identity begins with the Oyster Prince Submariner Reference 7922, a classic dive watch that began life alongside the Rolex Submariner in 1954. These are the watches most responsible for shaping the modern dive watch genre as we know it today. The first iteration of the 7900 family of divers used a classic straight-lug case with no crown guards, and a small 5mm screw-down crown with a screwed-in caseback providing a 100-meter depth rating. Luminous hour markers and hands populated the dial to provide maximum visibility in low-light environments, and finally, a rotating bezel with a luminous pip was used to track time on the fly.

On the inside is where Tudor differentiated itself from Rolex, opting to use a Fleurier-based Caliber 390 to keep the watch attainable without sacrificing any of the build quality or performance. This is a trend that has, until recently, defined Tudor, and it remains an important part of the brand's foundation. Finally, an Oyster-style three-link riveted bracelet brought a familiar and comfortable look to the watch.

With the Reference 7922, the die was cast, and a trajectory set. From here, a methodical evolution would take hold and flourish into the coming decades, setting a precedent that remains in place to this day.

The next notable update arrived in 1958, with changes that were geared toward increasing the robust qualities of the base design. With the reference 7924, the Tudor Oyster Prince Submariner gained a larger, 8mm crown, a thicker mid-case, and a new dome-chopped plexiglas crystal, all of which allowed for a 200-meter depth rating. The bezel also gained minute indexes for the first 15 minutes of elapsed time, allowing for a more granular measuring of that period. These were important additions that would set the tone moving into the '60s, and further establish the watch as a viable diver's tool.

A year later, in 1959, Tudor welcomed the addition of square crown guards to the case with the Reference 7928. This change, along with a re-toothed bezel assembly to make gripping and rotating easier, brought a more muscular presence to the design of the Submariner, and these changes would remain a permanent fixture within the collection for the coming decades.

Many small changes would make their way through the design in the form of refinements, which included small dial details and even the shape of the crown guards themselves. One such change that wasn't exactly planned for, but has come to be prized by collectors, was the emergence of dials now referred to as "tropical," for the warm tone they've developed with age and exposure. Each of these watches will have aged differently, meaning every tropical-dial Submariner is unique in its own right. As production methods and materials were changed and updated, this effect was lost, leaving only a small window of production capable of producing so-called tropical examples.

By the end of the 1960s, the Tudor Submariner collection of watches had firmly established itself, and in 1969, two new references appeared that would have a marked impact on what it means to be a Tudor diver. These new references were the 7016 and the 7021.

With the Submariner References 7016 and 7021, Tudor took a major step in establishing a visual identity of its own, separate from that of Rolex. These watches introduced new square hour markers, and the now iconic "snowflake" hour hand, both features which still exist today within the brand's Pelagos collection. Both of these watches used ETA-based automatic movements within 39mm Rolex-signed cases, with the dateless 7016 using an ETA 2483, and the 7021 welcoming a date complication via the ETA 2484.

One small detail worth noting about the references 7016 and 7021 is the move to a shield logo at the top of the dial, replacing the classic Tudor rose as seen in the 7900 collection of divers. This is a change that would persist in the generations to come.

In 1975, Tudor released a new dive watch Reference in the 9401/0, building on the concepts of previous generations in subtle but important ways. This reference stood out at a glance thanks to the addition of a matte blue dial and blue aluminum bezel insert. This watch served as a direct replacement for the 7016, meaning no date. Tudor moved to the ETA Caliber 2776 for this reference, which allowed for more precise setting thanks to the hacking function, which stopped the seconds hand in its place with the crown pulled out.

This generation also introduced the Reference 9411, which replaced the 7021, and featured a date complication thanks to the ETA 2784 within. Both of these references represented the final iterations of the so-called Snowflake Submariners from Tudor. The following generations would return to a Mercedes-style hour hand and circular hour markers.

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0068_Vintage_Tudor_Oyster_Prince_Submariner_Ref_7923_EDITED7923.jpg?v=1779995817" caption1="Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7923"]

Military References of Note

Tudor boasts an enviable history of real-world use under every imaginable condition, and that includes work within the ranks of the great military apparatus of the world. Tudor has a deep and longstanding relationship with the Marine Nationale, or the French Navy, but that's not where things begin. In 1964, Tudor developed a relationship with the United States Navy, whose sailors were issued examples of the Submariner Reference 7928, the 200-meter diver in all black. These watches were put to use by the Navy's UDT (Underwater Demolition Team), the predecessor of what we now know as Navy SEALs.

Issued watches featured unique caseback markings that identified their date of use and to which outfit they'd been issued. This makes each of these incredibly important watches unique, and while few survive to this day, the ones that do bear the scars of the stories they have to tell.

The Marine Nationale used later references of Tudor divers, such as the 9401, which were used with parachute belts as stand-ins for straps, allowing them to be worn over any kind of protective gear. These watches received a unique "M.N." engraving on their casebacks, along with their year of issue.

It’s important to note that these watches were not developed specifically for use by the MN or USN, but were readily available references in the catalog. The fact that they were subjected to such use is a testament to their robust build quality and serves as a foundation for their modern-day reputation. There is a clear throughline from these watches to the modern-day Pelagos FXD, some of which are still put to use by the Marine Nationale.

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0054_Tudor_Oyster_Prince_Submariner_9401_Marine_Nationale.jpg?v=1779996040" caption1="Oyster Prince Submariner 9401 Marine Nationale" image2="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0067_Vintage_Tudor_Oyster-Prince_First_model_EDITED.jpg?v=1779996040" caption2="Oyster Prince (First model)"]

Tudor’s relationship with military expeditions goes beyond divers. In the early 1950s, a joint civilian and military expedition called the British North Greenland Expedition (BNGE) was launched to carry out scientific research on the world’s largest island. On that expedition was a Tudor watch, Reference 7808, a small, utility-forward watch with an Oyster case and a screw-down crown. This watch would lay the groundwork for generations of field watches from Tudor in successive decades. The most popular of these is the Ranger, which was introduced in the early 1960s in References 7965 and 7995. 

The Ranger would introduce a new design language for the brand, with a flared minute hand tracking time against four Arabic numerals at the cardinal positions. The watch would evolve during the '60s through a range of references to include both date and non-date variations. Some even used manually winding calibers, and all were fit within steel 40mm cases. The design holds up to this day, and is re-created in modern sizing from today's Tudor.

The Chronographs

Tudor introduced its first chronograph references in 1970, and with them made a strong statement of individuality. Three individual references would appear in 1970, though only two would see any meaningful production. Each of the chronographs would use manually wound Valjoux movements sitting behind Rolex-signed casebacks. The '70s were a great generation for chronograph design in general, and Tudor featured a great mix of personality and tool-ish rugged character, and it's a design that is still ultimately unique to Tudor.

Things begin with the References 7031/0, 7032/0, and the 7033/0, each built within a 39mm steel frame mounted to a three-link Oyster style bracelet. Like the divers, these utilized an Oyster-style case and screw-down crowns (and pushers), providing a 50-meter depth rating. Each of these references uses the same base design, and they differ only in their bezel execution. The 7031/0 and 7032/0 both feature a techymeter bezel, the former's rendered in brushed steel and the latter with a black plexiglass insert.

The ill-fated Reference 7033/0 used a 12-hour bezel insert within a rotating assembly, offering what may have been a nice dual-time style functionality; however, this reference never saw production.

What made these chronographs special was their symmetrical dial design. Two subdials set on either side of the dial tracked the running seconds and totalized the minutes with the chronograph activated. Each sits within a black square set atop the base grey dial, creating an unusual contrast accented by orange detailing in the hands and chapter ring. The hour markers took the shape of a "home plate" square with a pointed end, and finally, a date aperture was placed at the bottom of the dial at 6 o'clock.

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0069_Vintage_Tudor_Chronograph_7031_Home_Plate_EDITED.jpg?v=1779996931" caption1="Chronograph 7031 'Home Plate'" image2="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0066_Vintage_Tudor_Oysterdate_Chrono_Monte_Carlo_EDITED.jpg?v=1779996931" caption2="Oysterdate Chrono 'Monte Carlo'"]

This is a base design that was built on just a year later with the release of the 7169/0 in 1971, a watch that would use the same base formula of a steel 39mm manually wound chronograph with a vibrant new dial design. This reference used a new bar-shaped hour marker design, and saw the black elements on the dial replaced with blue. The changes would earn this reference the nickname of “Monte Carlo,” as the new dial resembles a roulette wheel. This generation also retained the black and grey dial colors, and the bezel was also offered in three ways, with the 7169/0 using an aluminum 12-hour bezel in a rotating assembly; the 7149/0, using a tachymeter in black or blue; and finally, the 7159/0, using a steel bezel with engraved tachymeter.

As brilliant as these designs were, they were short-lived, followed by the ‘Big Block’ designs released in 1976 with the Reference 9430. This is a reference that necessitated a new dial design thanks to the move to a Valjoux 7750 automatic movement. This is a generation that would open a new chapter for Tudor chronograph references that would last into the ‘90s. The Valjoux was famously used by a large number of manufacturers in this era, and thus the design took on more of a standardized appearance, though that wouldn’t stop some familiar colorways from making an appearance. 

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0048_Tudor_Prince_Date_Submariner_79190_Tudor_Website_EDITED.jpg?v=1779996924" caption1="Prince Date Submariner 79190"]

By the mid 1980s, Rolex was in a transitional period, meaning so too was Tudor. Where Rolex modernized, Tudor took a slightly different route. While Rolex had transitioned to new glossy dials with white-gold hour marker surrounds, Tudor remained committed to the matte texture with lume applied directly to the dial under an acrylic crystal, a decision that many enthusiasts have come to appreciate about collecting watches from this era in particular. With the Reference 79090, Tudor also went back to the Mercedes-style hour hand, and circular hour plots, with a new large triangle design at the cardinal positions. To create even more distance between the Rolex Submariner and the Tudor Submariner, the 79090 was also available with a blue dial and bezel. Unlike previous generations, there was no time-only reference. 

There’s an important prototype worth mentioning here, and that is the full-burgundy Tudor Submariner 7900. This is the watch that would go on to inspire the first Black Bay, released in 2012, and would also inform a full burgundy expression of the Black Bay 58 in 2025. The colorway exists in Tudor’s archive, but it would never see production alongside other Submariner examples from the same era. 

The move away from the ‘Snowflake’ design in this era could be viewed as an inflection point in the history of the Tudor Submariner, and one that would ultimately see the watch back itself into a dead end by getting too close to the Rolex Submariner. Thankfully, the relevance of this design has never been lost, and it’s one that Tudor continues to iterate on in its modern Pelagos collection. 

With the Submariner Reference 79090 released in 1989, Tudor moved to the ubiquitous ETA 2824 platform, while continuing to use a Rolex-manufactured 39mm steel case and bracelet. The move to five-digit references would prove to be the Tudor Submariner’s last, but there is a clear evolution and maturity to the design that makes this generation so compelling. The simple, utilitarian nature of the design remained, with changes largely focused on function over creating a more premium aesthetic. This is, of course, a fine line to walk, and one that Tudor still manages to balance quite well to this day. 

The final Tudor Submariner reference was the 79190, which was introduced in 1995. This reference would eventually bring the modernities we’d already seen from Rolex by this period, such as a flat sapphire crystal and white-gold hour surrounds set atop a glossy base. This reference also saw a polished steel bezel insert used in its later years, quickly setting it apart as unique within its lineage. There was also a 36mm variation of this design, the Reference 75190, which used a five-link bracelet. 

This would mark the end of the Tudor Submariner, a name that is now reserved solely for use by Rolex. Tudor would call upon the same lineage once again in 2012, with the introduction of the Black Bay and the Pelagos, each of which would pick up visual cues from different eras of the Tudor Submariner. 

After phasing out the Submariner, Tudor would explore a range of designs, beginning with the Hydronaut reference 89190. The Hydronaut represented a shift in design language toward a more modern structure that created some space between itself and the Submariner. Some risks were taken with these watches, and while they didn’t all pan out for the long term, they did serve the purpose of establishing a new, creative space for the brand to express itself. 

The Hydronaut would experience two generations before being ultimately replaced by the Black Bay. A collection called the Aeronaut lived alongside the Hydronaut and shared the same general design language. Together, these watches would bridge the gap between Tudor's history and its future. The lineage is often forgotten today, but it delivered some unforgettable references, from the Aeronaut GMT 20200 to the mega-diver Hydro 1200 (Reference 25000).

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0006_Hydronaut.jpg?v=1779996928" caption1="Hydronaut" image2="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0031_Tudor_Chrono_79280_1995.jpg?v=1779996924" caption2="Chrono 79280"]

In 2011, you saw Tudor utilizing its heritage back catalog effectively (more on that with the Heritage Chronograph later in this book) with the Tudor Heritage Advisor, a throwback to the vintage Tudor alarm watch. This was initially launched with a light dial at 42mm and paid direct homage to Tudor's Advisor alarm watch from 1957. The brand followed that up in 2013 with a black dial edition. And while the Advisor may not have persisted in the collection until today, it represents, along with the Heritage Chrono, a more refined approach to vintage iteration in modern form, something that would prove to be very important to the brand's next phase.

When it comes to transitioning into the modern era, it was a similar story with the chronographs, which continued to build on the Big Block and Price Oysterdate platform first introduced in 1976. For Tudor, the four-digit references would last clear into the late '80s, with the References 9420/0 and 94200 representing the final appearance of the classic Tudor chronograph blue and orange colorways. Among them were so-called "exotic" dials with more graphic and colorful details that imbued a sense of character to the watch.

In 1989, Tudor introduced Reference 79160 as a replacement for the 9400 family, and brought with it a more refined design language that felt more versatile as a whole, even if it came at the expense of personality. The watches were now labeled with “Prince Oysterdate,” a nomenclature that was introduced, but not seen, in the third generation of the Big Block.

A quick note to mention that the “Big Block” naming convention was coined by collectors due to the increased case thickness to accommodate the oscillating weight of an automatic movement. The case took on more squarish dimensions on the wrist, and the Big Block naming convention would stick with the subsequent generation, which would use the notoriously stout 7750 automatic chronograph caliber.

This new generation of chronograph would continue to use that Valjoux 7750 automatic chronograph movement, within a brushed 40mm steel case that uses screw-down pushers. Drilled lugs were also present here, fixing the three-link bracelet to the case. Dial colors were more reserved, with white and black options using contrasting subdials, and applied polished hour markers lining the dial. This reference also used a black tachymeter bezel insert, though the Reference 79180 would use an engraved steel unit. This is a core design that would remain in use through the 90s.

A rotating 12-hour bezel would make an appearance within the five-digit generation in the Reference 79170 introduced in 1992. While not exactly rare, it is less common than the tachymeter in this family of watches. This is not a common feature of chronograph watches today, and it remains a unique element of Tudor's design philosophy, in chronographs dating back to the 1970s.

In 1995, Tudor introduced a new generation of the chronograph with the 79200 family. With it, a more refined case would be featured, boasting more polished surfaces and softer lines around the lugs to create a more organic and premium feel. The Valjoux 7750 would remain, as would the layout that it necessitates. The Reference 79280 used a polished tachymeter bezel, while the 79260 made the move to an aluminum insert. Much like the case, even the dial itself took steps toward a more premium experience, with silver making an appearance alongside glossy black. 

It's worth noting that Tudor did modify the Valjoux 7750 movements to meet its own exacting standards prior to using them. This has always been a workhorse movement, but Tudor did bring it up to its level of quality to ensure accurate timekeeping, longevity, and refinement. With the introduction of the 79200 family, the slightly thinner case and sleeker profile would earn this generation the "Small Block" nickname.

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0002_Tudor_Advisor.jpg?v=1779996927" caption1="Advisor" image2="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0007_Grantour.jpg?v=1779996928" caption2="Grantour"]

There is a four-year window between 1998 and 2002 during which Tudor chronographs went through what is referred to as the "Tiger" era, a nod to the brand's formal relationship with professional golfer Tiger Woods. This era is embraced for its colorful dials and the use of the word "Tiger" on the dial just under the minute totalizer. The watches released in this era were small block cases in the 79200 family, and when Woods signed with TAG Heuer in 2002, the Tiger branding was dropped.

Heading into the 2000s and early 2010s, Tudor embraced what could be called an experimental phase in search of its modern brand identity. What began with watches like the quartz-powered Monarch Chronograph Reference 15900 quickly evolved into larger, more expressive collections such as the 44mm Iconaut Reference 20400, the 41mm Hydronaut Reference 20360, and the 43mm Grantour Chrono Reference 20350.

The Tudor Grantour was launched in 2009 with a marketing tie-in to Porsche, as the brand was appointed the timing partner for Porsche Motorsports. Far from the vintage-inspired pieces that would follow, the Grantour Chronograph led with its connection to racing and was positioned as a contemporary luxury motorsports watch in form and function. Now, the Grantour line somewhat screams early-to-mid 2000s style in its aesthetic choices, and though it would bear out to be a short-lived collection, Tudor did produce several Grantour styles, including the Chrono Fly-back, Date & Small Seconds, and Chrono Blue/Black models. The reception of the Grandtour was lukewarm, but it did serve to point the brand in the right direction, as the contemporary flash of the line contributed to its relative lack of resonance with the current watchmaking landscape. 

None of these designs would enjoy a particularly long shelf life, and it wouldn’t be until the return of the classic Homeplate and Monte Carlo designs that Tudor chronographs found their groove. These came in the form of the Heritage Chronograph Reference 70330, which effectively captured the magic of the original designs in larger 42mm steel cases. These watches would help lead the way to the Tudor re-entering the U.S. market before the release of the Black Bay, which would go on to define the way we understand Tudor as a modern brand. 

In total, the Tudor chronograph references of the mid- to late '90s made a clear step into luxury territory, where they had once firmly been in tool territory. This was a clear sign of the era from many brands, and it would ultimately send Tudor back to the drawing board before re-entering the U.S. market space.

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0061_Tudor_Tiger_Chronograph_Small_Block_EDITED.jpg?v=1779996930" caption1="Tiger Chronograph 'Small Block'"]

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0019_Black_Bay_58_Burgundy_3.jpg?v=1779996927" caption1="Heritage Black Bay Burgundy 79220R"]

Almost a decade after officially departing the U.S. market, Tudor made a grand return stateside in 2013, launching as a subsidiary of Rolex, Tudor Watch USA, LLC. During its hiatus years, Tudor was busy revitalizing its identity in other markets, putting together a new Tudor DNA that leaned heavily on a sort of vintage-remix ethos, pulling further away from its aesthetic connection to Rolex in order to hold its own. While the brand had its first relaunch in 2009 in Europe, the 2010 release of the Heritage Chrono at Baselworld was a bold culmination of Tudor's refreshed attitude and positioning.

Heritage Chrono

While being heavily inspired by its own 1970s chronographs, the Heritage Chrono was not a 1:1 reissue of a singular model. Instead, the brand synthesized elements of its vintage Monte Carlo chronographs and offered up a modern, fresh reinterpretation rather than a replication. Key elements brought back from the brand's design archive for the Heritage Chrono were the distinctive homeplate-shaped hour markers, a bi-compax chronograph layout with geometric graphics surrounding the subdials, and pops of 70s-era design funkiness that feel retro without being over-the-top.

The real source of the Heritage Chrono's success was the incorporation of subtle yet impactful elements of contemporary watchmaking that prevented the piece from feeling dated. Especially considering that the demand for large watches was really taking off in the early to mid-2000s, the 42mm diameter felt more aligned with modern watch tastes than if the brand had gone for more true-to-vintage proportions. Additionally, the switch to a bezel with a 12-hour scale, rather than the tachymeter bezel of the 1970s Monte Carlo models, also gave the watch more functional versatility. The racing-inspired roots are still there, with the additional plus of being able to track a second time zone, which had the potential to appeal to a wider audience. The Heritage Chrono is not equipped with an in-house movement, but instead uses the T401 Caliber based on the ETA 2893 with a Dubois-Dépraz chronograph module, which beats at 4 Hz and has a 42-hour power reserve.

With its 2010 debut, Tudor released two distinct models of the Heritage Chrono onto the scene, ref. 70330N, which featured a black dial and grey subdials, and the ref. 70330G with a grey dial and black subdials. As a little reminder, both of these models launched before Tudor was officially back in the U.S., but this launch definitely kicked off a renewed interest in the brand. Three years later, in 2013, just as Tudor was making its way back into the U.S. market, a third Heritage Chrono dropped. This third model (ref. 70330B) continued on the design codes, along with the same movement and proportions, the first Heritage Chrono models established, but was full of even more 70s panache with its color palette of bright blues and pops of orange set against the white dial. It was this model that became a darling of the watch media and became the hero piece of the collection as Tudor returned to the U.S.

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0059_tudor-07831.jpg?v=1779996929" caption1="Heritage Chrono" image2="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0029_Tudor_heritage_Chrono.jpg?v=1779996929" caption2="Heritage Chrono"]

Despite its early positive reception and its key role in making Tudor as we know it now, the brand has moved on from the Heritage Chrono and has moved to expand the chronograph functionality into other model family lines. In 2023, the Heritage Chrono was officially discontinued. But as we know, the success of the brand's comeback was also bolstered by two other compelling model families, which are still going just as strong today.

Pelagos

Two years after the Heritage Chrono hit the scene, Tudor released a one-two punch of diver models at Baselworld 2012 that set the brand up for a new modern renaissance. The Pelagos and the Heritage Black Bay were debuted side by side, with the Pelagos being the diver intended for more rugged, tactical use, while the Heritage Black Bay being the more versatile, everyday option of the two. But before we dive into Black Bay territory, let's hone our focus in on the Pelagos.

Though the Pelagos did have a touch of that vintage-driven flair that Tudor was honing in on for its new contemporary identity with its 1950s-diver inspiration, at first glance, the Pelagos was more explicitly modern than that of the brand's two blatantly Heritage models. It was also the most professionally oriented. Measuring 42mm and 14.3mm thick, the first Pelagos was more of a beast on the wrist. But Tudor did something smart here to balance out all the wrist real estate that the Pelagos took up – they made it in titanium. So despite its relative largess, the Pelagos benefited from the lightweight feel that titanium has over steel. The titanium case and bracelet the Pelagos was outfitted in were all matte with a bead-blasted finish, which also spoke to its contemporary styling, and helped mitigate the easy scratching that is the typical tradeoff when working with the material.

The Pelagos has always been driven by functionality over flash, and aesthetically, the line has been largely unchanged since its debut. Made to actually be used in deep depths, the Pelagos featured an automatic helium escape valve, a unidirectional dive bezel with a ceramic insert, and was water resistant 500 meters – all of which still rings true for the Pelagos of today. The biggest change from the original model is in the movement department. While initial models relied on a modified ETA 2824-2 caliber, Tudor would equip the Pelagos line with the in-house MT5612 movement in 2015.

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0004_pelagos.jpg?v=1779996928" caption1="Pelagos"]

Heritage Black Bay

Among all the models that Tudor cooked up as a part of its relaunch strategy, there was one watch that did a lot of heavy lifting in the effort to finally step out of the Rolex shadow: the Heritage Black Bay, of course. With its bold burgundy bezel, 41mm sizing, and nods to the Tudor vintage design vault without any ties to one distinct model, the Heritage Black Bay took Baselworld 2012 by storm, and Tudor had a certifiable hit on its hands before it even officially relaunched in the U.S.

The first Heritage Black Bay is a near-perfect example of the right product, right time. While it still has diving watch chops, the key Black Bay identity is its versatility. The satin-brushing of the case and the polished chamfers made it feel much more elevated, and suitable for wear in just about every scenario, compared with the ultra-utilitarian Pelagos. The Heritage Black Bay teed Tudor up to have a certified GADA watch in its lineup, and the first models laid a good foundation that could be replicated and expanded upon in the years to come. While all the essential Black Bay DNA was already present with this initial model, some details would later be changed as the momentum of the line picked up. Tudor would later swap out the Rose emblem for the shield and upgrade from using the modified ETA 2824 movement to in-house calibers in 2016.

While we're currently in the heyday of vintage-inspired watches and reissues, at the time of the Heritage Black Bay's release, to successfully pull this off was incredibly novel. It was also so far beyond what the Crown was focusing on at the time, Tudor was finally able to begin to shake of its "little brother" nickname, and relegate it to the past. Though the brand still technically belongs to the Rolex Group, the Tudor of today operates on a model of production completely independent.

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0027_2012-Tudor-Heritage-Black-Bay-Burgundy-79220R-2.jpg?v=1779996925" caption1="Heritage Black Bay Burgundy 79220R"]

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0013_Black_Bay_Ceramic_2021.jpg?v=1779996925" caption1="Black Bay Ceramic"]

Today, Tudor has carefully positioned themselves at the confluence of multiple genres, and by investing heavily in its own manufacturing and production capabilities, has given itself vast opportunities for growth. Through this, it is vital that Tudor retains a strong perspective of its heritage, which informs its decisions for the future. It's a foundation worth taking advantage of, and one worth building on. Since returning to the US in 2013, Tudor has taken a methodical approach to building out its wildly successful Black Bay collection, and today, it continues to push boundaries in interesting ways that are often notoriously difficult to predict.

In 2015, Tudor introduced its first in-house movements developed and produced by its manufacturer, Kenissi. From the onset, tightly regulated accuracy was and remains a priority for Tudor movements, and they employ a number of methods to ensure it. That begins with a well-protected regulating organ mounted to a full balance bridge to reduce susceptibility to rate error due to shocks. Additionally, Tudor uses silicon hairsprings in its movements to remain impervious to magnetic fields, which can also wreak havoc on timekeeping.

Every Tudor movement has been chronometer certified, and in 2021, they took the additional step of working with METAS (Swiss Federal Institute of Metrology) to certify its movement accuracy to an even tighter standard of 0/+5 seconds per day. METAS certification comes with a host of additional testing procedures to ensure the movements are up to spec, even after casing. Not every Tudor movement undergoes METAS certification, but its capacity to produce these movements has been steadily increasing.

In 2023, Tudor inaugurated its new manufacturing facilities in Le Locle, boasting high-tech features to streamline production and ensure tight quality standards. The facilities use automated processes in addition to skilled human hands, in what represents a wonderful marriage of old-world watchmaking and modern technology, all in the service of getting every detail right. These exacting standards will allow Tudor to scale its ambitious accuracy goals to broader sections of its catalog.

At its core, Tudor makes tool watches. This has been true for its 100 years of operation, and its recent move into movement manufacturing also reflects this identity. These movements are relatively utilitarian in appearance, with uniform, blasted finishes underscoring their true nature. It's a true example of form following function. The broader goal is performance here, and every decision speaks to that.

Taking a step back, it was the incredible success of the Black Bay in 2012 that allowed Tudor to blossom in this manner. Much of the time since has been spent fleshing out that collection with a variety of sizes, materials, and complication options for buyers to enjoy. But the Pelagos, Tudor's modern dive watch vision, has played a vital role in keeping the brand in touch with its roots in a very different way. While the Black Bay reflects the earliest Submariner references, the Pelagos embraces the unique elements developed by the brand through its evolution. Additionally, it serves a truly modern take on the dive watch, further establishing the future of the genre in the process.

As big as the Black Bay has been for Tudor, they haven't let it define the brand. In fact, the base architecture of the watch has proven to be quite versatile, from the base three-hander 41mm diver to bright blue and pink variations of the chronograph; it seems to work with whatever Tudor decides to throw at it. Tudor has even opened up new avenues within the Black Bay universe, such as the smaller 58-labeled collection and the GMT-equipped Pro variations, each of which has the potential to grow into its own fully fledged family over time.

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0041_Tudor_Black_Bay_Chrono_2025.jpg?v=1779996928" caption1="Black Bay Chrono" image2="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0034_tudor_black_bay_pro_black_2.jpg?v=1779996924" caption2="Black Bay Pro Black"]

The expansion of that original vision for the Black Bay and Pelagos has allowed Tudor to effectively exploit all areas of the dive watch genre. The Black Bay is even used to express its collaborative vision with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls Formula 1 team, while the Pelagos collection, which includes the popular FXD platform, is used to house partner collaborations with the likes of its Swiss professional cycling team and the Red Bull Alhingi yacht racing team. They are all capable dive watches, but more than that, they are lifestyle-driven in nature, providing a clear picture of Tudor's modern identity.

In establishing itself as a truly independent force, Tudor has remained faithful to its heritage while steadfastly pushing forward. This is not a brand defined by throwbacks and reissues. Rather, they are defined by performance, functionality, and reliability, and while these things still very much inform the brand's aesthetic DNA, Tudor has become increasingly willing to explore new design concepts within this framework. These are still very much the tool watches they've always been, and today, they've got more character than ever. It all adds up to a strong foundation upon which a new generation will be built.

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0025_Black_Bay_1.jpg?v=1779996924" caption1="Black Bay"]

Black Bay

The Black Bay collection is the undisputed flagship of the 21st-century Tudor lineup and has played a huge role in Tudor stepping out from under Rolex's substantial shadow to establish an impressive identity all its own. Improbably, It did so by deftly combining elements from earlier Tudor dive watches, most of which were clearly inspired by the Rolex dive watches that preceded them to market. The so-called "snowflake" hour hand that is so emblematic now to the Black Bay family was drawn from the Tudor Submariner Ref. 7016 from 1969 that was famously supplied to the French Navy, whose divers found two distinctly different hands to be beneficial in reading the time underwater.) The large screw-down crown, with engraved Tudor rose emblem, was introduced on the 1958 "Big Crown" model. The geometrical hour markers — round dots and rectangles, with a dominant inverted triangle at 12 o'clock — are derived from Tudor Submariners on the market in the '60s and '70s, as is the subtly domed shape of both the dial and the sapphire crystal.

Black Bay 41

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0010_Black_Bay.jpg?v=1779996926" caption1="Black Bay"]

The core Black Bay family, directly descended from the original Heritage models, still features cases sized at 41mm in diameter and is designed in the classic diver's configuration, with cases predominantly in steel and dive-scale bezel inserts made of anodized aluminum. Nowadays, these Black Bay 41mm models contain the in-house Tudor Caliber MT5602, which replaces the outsourced ETA calibers used in the very first ones. Most of the dials of the Black Bay 41 are matte black, with some notable exceptions, including the champagne-colored dials of the S&G (Steel and Gold) bi-material models, which dress up a steel case with a crown and bezel made of yellow gold; the models on bracelets also feature yellow gold center links.

[shoppable-product handle="black-bay-manufacture-calibre-mt5602-u-41mm-black-and-red-w-gold-accents-on-rubber-strap"]

Black Bay Bronze

In 2016, Tudor introduced a version of the Black Bay in a case made of bronze, a material that has been used historically in maritime equipment such as divers' helmets and ships' propellers. Bronze watches are prized by some collectors for the material's propensity to gain a patina over the years that makes each watch unique to its owner and his or her experiences. At 43mm in diameter, the Black Bay Bronze is the largest option in the Tudor Black Bay catalog, and is also the only Black Bay to use Arabic numerals at the 3, 6, and 9 o'clock positions. The brown aluminum bezel inserts harmonize with the brushed bronze case and slate-gray dial for an understated look.

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0043_Tudor_Black_Bay_Bronze.jpg?v=1779996924" caption1="Black Bay Bronze"]

[shoppable-product handle="black-bay-bronze-manufacture-calibre-mt5601-cosc-43mm-black-on-leather-strap"]

Black Bay Ceramic

Unveiled in 2021, the Black Bay Ceramic riveted the watch world's attention not only with its all-black "stealth" design — matte-black, micro-blasted, monobloc ceramic case, black-PVD-steel bezel with engraved ceramic dive-scale insert, domed black dial — but also with its movement. The automatic Tudor Caliber MT5602-1U boasted not only the COSC chronometer certificate that all Tudor calibers carry but also a Master Chronometer certificate from METAS, the Swiss Institute of Metrology, which measures not only precision but also other factors like resistance to magnetic fields. The Black Bay Ceramic also earned Tudor a GPHG award the year of its release. For 2026, Tudor introduced a new edition of the Black Bay Ceramic, expanding the material beyond the case to a new three-link ceramic bracelet with a double folding clasp, all paired with an anthracite dial with grey lume and black outlined details.

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0042_Tudor_Black_Bay_Ceramic_WW_2026.jpg?v=1779996927" caption1="Black Bay Ceramic"]

[shoppable-product handle="black-bay-ceramic-41mm-black-on-bracelet"]

Black Bay Monochrome

Introduced in 2024, the "Monochrome" edition of the Black Bay 41 is a sober yet oh-so-sleek iteration of the model, matching a matte black dial with an anodized aluminum dive-scale bezel in the same hue. Silver-toned indexes and hands, both in the recognizable Black Bay style, provide a sharp and legible contrast. Enthusiasts will also appreciate the smaller details, like the engraved Tudor rose emblem that appears on the screw-down crown. The most important upgrade is on the inside: the automatic "Master Chronometer" Caliber MT5602-U, which is equipped with a silicon hairspring that helps deliver the watch a power reserve of 70 hours. Tudor offers the Monochrome edition on either a three-link or five-link steel bracelet as well as a black rubber strap.

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0037_Tudor_Black_Bay_Monochrome_2026_2.jpg?v=1779996925" caption1="Black Bay Monochrome"]

[shoppable-product handle="black-bay-manufacture-calibre-mt5602-u-41mm-black-on-bracelet"]

Black Bay Chrono

To develop the movement for the Black Bay family's first-ever chronograph watch, Tudor turned not to its parent brand, Rolex, but to an outside source, fellow Swiss sports-watch giant Breitling. The resulting Caliber MT5813, which uses Breitling's self-winding B01 movement as a base, features an integrated chronograph powered by a column wheel, a 70-hour power reserve, and a COSC chronometer certification. The stationary bezel on the 41mm steel case has an anodized aluminum bezel insert, inscribed with a tachymeter scale rather than a dive-time scale, bringing this model more into the realm of motorsport than marine exploration (though the screw-down crown and chrono pushers help ensure the same 200-meter water resistance as the diving models). The dials feature contrasting subdial counters at 3 and 9 o'clock and a date window at 6 o'clock. The steel-and-yellow-gold S&G models host champagne-colored dials with black subdials.

In a move that surprised and delighted the enthusiast community, Tudor debuted an uncharacteristically colorful, pink dial rendition of its Black Bay Chrono in 2024. Developed in partnership with the Miami CF soccer team, the limited nature of this pink panda take on the line immediately made it a highly sought-after model among collectors. The brand followed up this success and might have even one-upped itself the following year with the launch of the “Flamingo Blue” Black Bay Chrono. A continuation of the partnership (and with David Beckham once again serving as the brand ambassador), the South Beach-inspired vibes raged on, this time with a turquoise dial backdrop. Notably, the “Flamingo Blue” name is not inspired by the bird itself, but by the bright hues of the waters they inhabit. 

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0012_Black_Bay_Chrono_White_2021.jpg?v=1779996924" caption1="Black Bay Chrono" image2="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0032_Tudor_Carbon_25.jpg?v=1779996924" caption2="Black Bay Chrono Carbon 25"]

Beginning in 2025, the brand introduced carbon fibre build to the Black Bay Chrono family for the first time in collaboration with the Visa Cash App Racing Bulls F1 team. This series launched with the "Carbon 25" chronograph, which channeled VCARB's 2025 livery colors right on the dial with its bright blue dial perimeter and black details against a white backdrop. The "Carbon 26" followed in 2026, updating the color palette to match the new VCARB vehicle with bright yellow details, once again with carbon fiber used in the chronograph subdials themselves.

[shoppable-product handle="black-bay-chrono-manufacture-calibre-mt5813-41mm-white-on-3-link-bracelet"]

In a surprising move, Tudor dropped a brand new addition to the Black Bay Chrono family post Watches & Wonders 2026. A shock to the system, not only in its vibrant mix of yellow and black, the “Bumblebee” Black Bay Chrono introduced a massive sizing shift, scaling the case down to 39mm. Still powered by the MT5813 chronograph caliber, the Bumblebee take on the line has also slimmed down its profile to match the downsized case, down to a case height of 13.1mm. For those skeptical about the color choice here, this particular dial, with its yellow hue and punches of red, definitely brings to mind the neo-vintage yellow dial Tudor Tiger. 

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/Black_Bay_Chrono_Bumblebee-2.jpg?v=1780500146" caption1="Black Bay Chrono 'Bumblebee'" image2="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0072_Tudor_Black_Bay_Chrono_Flamingo_Blue.jpg?v=1780501055" caption2="Black Bay Chrono 'Flamingo Blue'"]

[shoppable-product handle="tudor-black-bay-chrono-39mm-yellow-on-bracelet"]

Black Bay GMT

After the launch of the Black Bay Chrono in 2017, Tudor's legions of fans were undoubtedly wondering what the brand would do for an encore, complication-wise, in the Black Bay series. The answer came the following year, as Tudor pivoted back to an iconic Rolex model for inspiration. While the Black Bay GMT owes an obvious aesthetic debt to Rolex's GMT-Master, it also fits firmly within the design language of the Black Bay, with its familiar dial framed not by a dive scale or tachymeter scale but by a bicolor 24-hour ring on which the wearer can read a second time zone thanks to the dial's additional red GMT hand. The famous bright red-and-blue "Pepsi" bezel of Rolex's original GMT-Master is here slightly modified to a more muted indigo-and-burgundy combo. The Black Bay GMT line, powered by the COSC-certified automatic Caliber MT5662, has also added a two-tone S&G edition, with a brown-and-black "root beer" bezel insert, and a "Pepsi" iteration with a white opaline dial.

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0040_Tudor_Black_Bay_GMT_Black_1.jpg?v=1779996929" caption1="Black Bay GMT" image2="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0038_Tudor_Black_Bay_GMT_Opaline_1.jpg?v=1779996925" caption2="Black Bay GMT Opaline" image3="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0039_Tudor_Black_Bay_GMT_Black_2.jpg?v=1779996925" caption3="Black Bay GMT"]

[shoppable-product handle="black-bay-gmt-manufacture-calibre-mt5652-41mm-black-pepsi-bezel-on-bracelet"]

Black Bay Pro

Tudor answered the prayers of many of its fans, who craved a simpler, more understated travel watch within the Black Bay family, with the launch of the Black Bay Pro. The sporty timepiece differs from the more colorful GMT models in its use of a stationary, satin-finished steel bezel with engraved numerals for its 24-hour GMT scale. The movement is the same automatic MT5662 that beats inside the Black Bay GMT, but the case is a slightly more modest 39mm (compared to the 41mm sizing of the GMT line) and the central hand that points to a second time zone is in yellow rather than red, offering an even greater contrast with the matte black dial (thought Tudor has since expanded the Pro series to include a handful of models with silvered white dials, with black-outlined markers).

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0035_tudor_black_bay_pro_black_1.jpg?v=1779996925" caption1="Black Bay Pro" image2="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0033_tudor_black_bay_pro_black_3.jpg?v=1779996925" caption2="Black Bay Pro" image3="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0011_Black_Bay_Pro_-_Polar_Dial_3.jpg?v=1779996926" caption3="Black Bay 58"]

[shoppable-product handle="black-bay-pro-manufacture-calibre-mt5652-39mm-black-on-bracelet"]

Black Bay 58

In 2018, in response to growing consumer demand both for more modest case sizes and for greater period authenticity in vintage-style timepieces, Tudor introduced the Black Bay 58, which not only proved to hit the sweet spot for many contemporary enthusiasts but also has become a bona fide subfamily of the Black Bay with its own complications and line extensions. Named for the year 1958, in which Tudor released the Oyster Prince Submariner Ref. 7924, the most clear forerunner to the Black Bay, the Black Bay 58 models match that watch's 39mm case diameter, which is downsized from the 41mm size still standard to the core Black Bay series. Since its launch, the Black Bay 58 has also been the stage for some of Tudor's recent (and historically rare) forays into the realm of precious metals.

The original Black Bay 58, still a mainstay of the collection-within-the-collection, has a classical matte black dial with all the familiar, vintage-derived Black Bay elements, including the combination of circles, rectangles, and inverted triangles at the hour points, the "snowflake" hour hand, sword minute hand, and lollipop-style central seconds hand, and gilt-printed details like the inscriptions and chapter ring. The 39mm case is in brushed and polished stainless steel, with the archetypal "big crown" that screws in securely to ensure a 200-meter water resistance, and a unidirectional dive-scale bezel whose black anodized aluminum disk features gilded dive-scale markings to match the dial elements. From its inception, Tudor has equipped the Black Bay 58 with the in-house automatic Caliber MT5402, a movement developed specifically for the series's smaller case dimensions.

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A version of the Black Bay 58 with a vibrant blue dial, which dropped in 2020, was the inevitable follow-up to the black-dialed original. (The original Tudor Submariner's connection to the French navy back in the 1950s was probably also a strong motivation, as well as a hint.) Its brushed-and-polished steel case, with a blue anodized aluminum bezel insert hosting silver-gilded markings for the dive scale, frames a domed, matte navy blue dial with a grained surface. Like its black-dialed predecessor, the 58 Navy Blue is offered on three bracelet options: a riveted steel bracelet with the same finished surfaces as the case; a blue "soft touch" flannel-style strap; and a blue-toned Jacquard fabric NATO-strap, woven on 19th-century looms by 150-year-old French family firm Julien Faure, Tudor's strap-making partner for over 10 years.

For 2026, METAS Master Chronometer Certification officially arrived to the Black Bay 58 family, marking Tudor's major planned move to incorporate this certification over time to each of its collections. All of the subtle tweaks to the Black Bay 58 seen on the burgundy model of the previous year have also been applied, from the knurling on the crown and bezel to the subtle ergonomic case refinements. Officially powered by the now COSC and METAS-certified MT5400-U (with dial script updated to match), the 2026 Black Bay 58 is now also offered on a five-link bracelet with the T-Fit clasp system for rapid adjustments.

[shoppable-product handle="black-bay-58-manufacture-calibre-mt5400-u-39mm-red-on-bracelet"]

Black Bay 58 Bronze

For the first bronze watch in the Black Bay 58 subfamily, Tudor went all-in, crafting not only a bronze case for the model but also a rarely seen bronze bracelet. The dial and aluminum bezel insert are executed in a warm reddish brown that harmonizes with the red-gold hue of the satin-brushed case and bracelet. The bracelet, in the three-link Oyster style characteristic of sports watches from parent brand Rolex, has been fitted with the innovative "T-fit" rapid adjustment system for the clasp, which allows the user to adjust it in five separate positions without the need for tools. The movement inside is Tudor's Caliber MT540, which is identical in just about every respect to the MT5402 but a smidgen larger in diameter so as to better be shown off behind a sapphire display back. The watch is delivered with an additional bronze-brown NATO fabric strap.

[image-carousel image1="https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0278/9723/3501/files/TB_0021_Black_Bay_58_Bronze_2021.jpg?v=1779996928" caption1="Black Bay 58 Bronze"]

Black Bay 58 925

The Black Bay 58 925, and its sibling the Black Bay 58 18K, both released in 2021, are the first members of the Black Bay family in precious-metal cases. The tarnish-resistant alloy used for the case of the 925 (the number refers to the 92.5 percent pure sterling silver in the alloy) is a rarity in today's watch world, more brilliant in its gleam than steel, while also slightly denser. The taupe-colored dial and matching bezel insert are also eye-catching and create an elegant contrast with the silver-gilded elements, including the dive-scale numerals and the frames of the hands and hour indexes. Automatic Caliber MT5400 beats within this very special case, behind a sapphire exhibition caseback, another Tudor rarity. The Black Bay 58 925 is available on either a brown leather strap with a silver buckle or a taupe-colored fabric strap with a silver stripe in the middle.

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Black Bay 58 18K

The most expensive and exclusive Black Bay 58 is the 18K edition, so named for its case made of 18k yellow gold case, once the most popular gold alloy for watches and jewelry, but now possessing more of a niche, retro appeal. The case, which maintains the same 200-meter water resistance as its siblings in more conventional metals, has a brushed finish for an appropriately understated look. The "snowflake" handset is also made from 18k yellow gold, making for a pleasing contrast with the deep green dial, framed by a gold bezel whose aluminum dive-scale insert is dressed in the same colors (dark green with gold-colored details). As one might expect, the watch showcases its in-house movement — the same Caliber MT5400 that powers the other non-steel variants — behind its sapphire exhibition caseback. The Black Bay Fifty Eight 18k is delivered on a dark brown alligator leather strap with an 18k yellow-gold buckle, with an additional green fabric strap with a gold stripe.

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Black Bay 58 GMT

In 2024, Tudor brought its popular GMT complication and the accompanying bicolor bezel design into the Black Bay 58 subfamily. The 39mm steel case of the Black Bay 58 GMT (matching the sizing of the Black Bay Pro) will fit the bill for many wearers with its 12.8mm thickness and 47.8mm lug-to-lug measurement. Its bicolor 24-hour bezel has a glossier finish for a more vibrant aesthetic, the "snowflake" handset has added layers of Super-LumiNova for legibility, and the movement inside is the automatic Caliber MT5440-U, boasting both a COSC certification as well as a METAS Master Chronomater certification. Its power reserve is 65 hours, just shy of the 70 hours offered by the non-GMT-equipped base caliber. The original Black Bay 58 GMT comes on either a sporty black rubber strap or the classic, Tudor riveted steel bracelet. As of 2026, Tudor has further refined the line, packing in a new COSC and METAS-certified movement with the MT5450-U, subtle tweaks to the case profile, and ushering a 5-link bracelet with T-Fit clasp into the collection.

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[shoppable-product handle="black-bay-58-gmt-39mm-black-on-bracelet"]

Black Bay 54

After the success of the Black Bay 58, Tudor added an even more understated option to the Black Bay portfolio in 2023, resurrecting the original 37mm sizing of the granddaddy of all Black Bay models, the original Oyster Prince Ref. 7922 from 1954. The new model was dubbed — you guessed it — the Black Bay 54. At just 11.24mm thick in stainless steel, and topped with a unidirectional bezel sans hash marks (a nod to the early days of SCUBA diving and early watches for divers), Tudor calls it "the purest modern expression of the brand's first-ever dive watch." Inside the 200-meter water-resistant case beats the automatic Caliber MT5400, with a COSC chronometer certification and a 70-hour power reserve. Both versions of the watch, on either a riveted bracelet or a rubber strap, feature the brand's "T-Fit" easy-adjustment mechanism. Joining the original black-dialed models in 2025 was the "Lagoon Blue" edition, with a sand-textured finish on its light blue dial and a mirror-polished steel insert (replacing the standard aluminum one) for the dive-scale bezel. The latest rendition to join the collection harkens to the blue dial divers of Tudor's early history. New for 2026, the "Tudor Blue" rendition of the Black Bay 54 is arguably the most faithful to the line's roots, featuring a sunray-brushed sapphire-hued dial and matching aluminum bezel insert.

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[shoppable-product handle="black-bay-54-manufacture-calibre-mt5400-37mm-black-on-rubber-strap"]

Black Bay One

Notable for their smooth, stationary bezels, which replace the functional, rotating bezels of the "classic" Black Bay, the Black Bay One models — offered in 41mm, 39mm, 36mm, 32mm, and 31mm case sizes — take the Black Bay out of its usual milieu as a stylish tool watch for divers and place it firmly within the "everyday" sports watch category. Those seeking a Black Bay model suitable for a dressier occasion can also choose from an expanding array of bi-metal S&G options in each size, with yellow-gold bezels, crowns, and links adding a layer of luxury to predominantly steel cases and bracelets. Some are also available with diamond settings. Demonstrating how far Tudor has come since it re-entered the U.S. market in 2013, all of these watches are now fitted with in-house, automatic Tudor movements, all COSC-certified and boasting antimagnetic silicon balance springs.

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[shoppable-product handle="black-bay-one-manufacture-calibre-mt5601-cosc-41mm-blue-on-bracelet"]

Black Bay 68

On the other end of the sizing spectrum from the Black Bay 54, and boldly bucking the industry trend toward downsizing, is the Black Bay 68, introduced in 2025 and featuring a new 43mm case size. Outside of the Black Bay Bronze, it's the largest Black Bay model in the collection, taking the numeral in its name from (as you may have guessed at this point) the year 1968, the year that the Black Bay "snowflake" handset debuted. The case is in polished and satin-brushed stainless steel, mounted on a robust steel three-link bracelet with a "ladder-style" taper that harkens back to earlier models, and maintains the Black Bay models' professional-grade water resistance of 200 meters. The familiar elements of the Black Bay DNA are all present on the dial, which Tudor is offering in both its signature, nautical "Tudor Blue" (with a sharp, light-catching radial-brushed finish) and also in sun-brushed silver. The dial sits under a domed sapphire crystal, and the case's water resistance is ensured by a screw-down crown with an engraved Tudor rose emblem. Beating inside the case is the COSC-certified, Master Chronometer Caliber MT5601-U, with a 70-hour power reserve, a stop-seconds function, and a non-magnetic silicon balance spring that renders it resistant to magnetic fields up to 15,000 gauss.

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[shoppable-product handle="black-bay-68-manufacture-calibre-mt5601-u-43mm-blue-on-bracelet"]

Pelagos

The Pelagos is regarded by many as Tudor's other dive watch — a niche model that never garnered the enthusiast prestige or the proliferating line extensions of the more widely adored Black Bay. But for a diehard fanbase looking for modern deep-sea robustness as well as authentic military lineage, the Pelagos offers more than its share of appeal, and has even started offering diversity in its sizes, styles, and materials. At first glance, the Pelagos and Black Bay look strikingly similar to one another; not surprisingly, as both share the historical Oyster Prince Submariner DNA. The differences are in the details, both aesthetic and technical. 

Since its initial launch, the Pelagos case, unlike that of the Black Bay, has been made of titanium rather than steel; it is, in fact, the first titanium-cased dive watch from the Rolex brand family. The bezel’s dive-scale insert is made of ceramic, with luminous numerals and markers. The Pelagos dial features the same “snowflake” hour and minute hands as the Black Bay, but uses all-rectangular indexes rather than its sibling’s assortment of circles and rectangles at every hour marker. From a diving standpoint, the Pelagos leans much more strongly into tool-watch territory, water-resistant to an impressive 500 meters, as compared to the standard 200 meters of the Black Bay. Accordingly, the Pelagos also includes a helium-release valve for saturation diving, a device Rolex developed back in the 1960s for its Sea-Dweller dive watches. To oversimplify things, one could say that the Pelagos is the Sea-Dweller to the Black Bay’s Submariner. The original Pelagos remains at the vanguard of the collection in 2023, with all of the elements that defined it a decade ago: 42mm titanium Oyster case, ceramic bezel, date window at 3 o’clock, and 500 meter water resistance, in either a predominantly black or blue colorway for the dial and bezel, and powered by the automatic MT5612 Caliber.

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[shoppable-product handle="pelagos-manufacture-calibre-mt5612-titanium-42mm-black-on-bracelet-w-extra-rubber-strap"]

Pelagos LHD

In 2016, Tudor introduced the Pelagos LHD, based on a watch the company made in the late 20th century for southpaw military divers in the French Navy. The initials "LHD" stand for "Left Handed Drive," referring to the inverted position of the movement's winding mechanism, which allows for the crown to be positioned on the left side of the brushed titanium case. The original Pelagos LHD was the first Tudor watch in a numbered edition, and its dial includes another vintage callout to vintage Tudor dive watches: the date disk at 3 o'clock used red text for the even numerals and black for odd numerals, an alternating style that first appeared in the Ref. 7021 Submariner from 1969 and which collectors have nicknamed "roulette." Speaking to Tudor's strict in-house quality control, the movement, Caliber MT5612-LHD, achieves its chronometer certification through a series of tests that simulate the watch being worn on the left wrist.

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Pelagos 39

In 2022, in keeping with the trend toward smaller case dimensions, Tudor introduced the Pelagos 39, which trims the 42mm diameter of the original Pelagos down to a more universally wearable 39mm. The case's profile is also slimmed down to 11.8mm, and from the standpoint of functionality, the water resistance is also less robust than that of the original Pelagos, at a still-respectable 200 meters. The case and bracelet are in the same satin-brushed titanium as those of its big brother, and the dial features the snowflake hands and geometric indexes, but not the 3 o'clock date window, making for an even more streamlined aesthetic. Also absent from the Pelagos 39 is the helium release valve on the left side of the case, a superfluous element on a watch not built for saturation diving.

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[shoppable-product handle="pelagos-manufacture-calibre-mt5400-titanium-39mm-grey-on-bracelet-w-extra-rubber-strap"]

Pelagos FXD

Launched in 2021 and taking specific historical cues from the watches Tudor produced for French Marine Nationale divers in the mId-20th century, the Pelagos FXD model is named for the sturdy, "FiXeD" strap bars on its 42mm steel case, which fit only single-pass NATO straps. Designed in close collaboration with today's Marine Nationale, the watch's specially designed strap bars differentiate it from just about every other dive watch on the market. The marine-evocative blue colorway of the dial and bezel, the latter's enhancement with extra-bright luminous material, and the bezel's bidirectional rather than unidirectional functionality are among the details specifically developed with the input of the French navy. The Tudor In-house Caliber MT5602 ticks inside the 200-meter water-resistant case, mounted on a blue fabric NATO strap.

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[shoppable-product handle="pelagos-fxd-titanium-on-fabric-strap"]

Pelagos Ultra

As part of its 2025 releases, Tudor unveiled the Pelagos Ultra, a version of the Pelagos that elevated it even further (or perhaps that should be "deeper") into Rolex Sea-Dweller territory with an extreme waterproof rating of 1,000 meters. The first Tudor dive watch built for that level of underwater robustness, the Ultra's satin-brushed titanium case measures a hefty 43mm in diameter and 14.5mm thick, and comes paired with a bracelet in the same metal and featuring the T-Fit folding clasp. Along with the helium-escape valve, the watch caters to saturation divers with its scaled-up dial and larger hands and markers with two different-colored Super-LumiNova, blue and green, for optimum readability.

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[shoppable-product handle="pelagos-ultra-titanium-on-bracelet"]

Ranger

Tudor launched the first Ranger model in 1967 and reintroduced it in a more contemporary yet still very military-influenced version, called the Heritage Ranger, in 2014. The case dimensions were expanded from the 34mm of the vintage model to 41mm, but the matte black, dateless dial with big painted numerals at 3, 6, 9, and 12 was retained, as was the domed sapphire crystal that covers it. Tudor equipped the Heritage Ranger (whose most direct inspiration is the Ref. 7995, discontinued by 1969) with a self-winding movement sourced from ETA, the brand having not yet ramped up its own in-house movement production. The Heritage Ranger was discontinued in 2020 and replaced with the simpler-named Ranger in 2023, now in a smaller 39mm case and containing an in-house movement with a 70-hour power reserve.

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[shoppable-product handle="tudor-ranger-39mm-beige-on-bracelet"]

1926

Released in 2018, Tudor's 1926 collection defines everyday versatility in a timekeeper and is now available in more than 100 variations, encompassing four case sizes in various materials and a plethora of dial colors and textures. The 1926 is not only a truly "unisex" model, suited for both gents and ladies, but also the single least expensive watch in Tudor's catalog, coming in at or just under $2,000, thanks to its use of outsourced Sellita automatic movements rather than the in-house calibers used in sportier Tudor collections like the Black Bay and Pelagos. The fine finishing on the case and bracelet of the 1926 adds an extra layer of luxurious refinement that's nonetheless suitable for daily wear.

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1926 Luna

In 2025, Tudor ushered in its first-ever moonphase complication into its repertoire, with the larger 1926 collection serving as its chosen vehicle for the new functionality. This was a fitting choice, given that the line strikes as the most elevated and dress-oriented design among the brand's catalog, dominated by function-forward tool watches. Sharing much of the DNA as the larger family, the 1926 places the added moon phase subdial front and center at six o'clock, featuring a moon and star motif on a printed disk, with a cloud partially covering the lower section of the wheel, forming the waxing and waning of the moon as the month progresses. On the wrist, the wearing experience is much like that of the 39mm 1926 model, though the added moon phase complication adds a bit of height to the case profile at 10.1mm. Tudor's first moon phase watch comes in three dial executions: a blue dial with silver accents and details, a champagne dial with black details, and a black dial model with champagne-hued details – all of which are powered by the T607-9 automatic caliber, and paired with the seven-link bracelet seen on the larger 1926 collection.

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[shoppable-product handle="1926-luna-39mm-blue-on-bracelet"]

Royal

Tudor founder Hans Wilsdorf introduced the watch that inspired the Tudor Royal way back in 1926. The Royal, which was first called by that name in 1950, is one of Tudor's dressier watches while still fairly "sporty-chic" in its design, with its fluted stationary bezel and sunray-finish dial with Roman numeral hour markers. The largest iteration of the Tudor Royal, at 41mm, features a day-of-the-week display in an arched window at 12 o'clock and a small date aperture at 3 o'clock, a layout no doubt inspired by the original Day-Date "President" created by Tudor's parent brand, Rolex. The movement is the ETA-based Caliber T603, with a modest but solid 38-hour power reserve. For 2026, Tudor launched a fleet of new Royal models, revamping the collection from the inside out by introducing in-house, chronometer-certified MT calibers across 30, 36, and 40mm sizes in varying dial hues.

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[shoppable-product handle="tudor-royal-36mm-light-blue-on-bracelet"]

Clair de Rose

The name of Tudor's most feminine collection comes from the French phrase, "clair de lune," referring to moonlight, and the imagery of the brand's Tudor rose emblem. Tudor redesigned the Clair de Lune in 2017, with case size offerings ranging from 26mm to 30mm to 34mm, all in stainless steel and waterproof to 100 meters, with a screw-down crown adorned with a precious spinel. The opaline dials host relief patterns, blue lacquered Roman numerals or diamonds for the hours, and a date window. The watches are presented on steel bracelets with "grains of rice" links and contain self-winding movements based on the tried-and-true ETA 2671.

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[shoppable-product handle="tudor-clair-de-rose-34mm-silver-on-bracelet"]

Monarch

As Tudor celebrated its centennial in 2026, the brand brought back the Monarch name from its archive, but reimagined it entirely anew in the form of a sports luxury piece paired with what the brand calls an "error-proof" dial. Housed in a barrel-shaped 39mm case and paired with an H-link bracelet, the Tudor Monarch of the 21st-Century is among the brand's most intricately finished and aesthetically sophisticated pieces to date. The vertically brushed champagne dial follows what many would call a California-style layout, with Roman numerals at the top and Arabic numerals at the bottom of the dial. The running sub-seconds indicator at six o'clock is a first for the brand, and required an entirely new movement. The MT5662-2U movement within is manufactured in-house, Master Chronometer METAS-Certified, offers a 65-hour power reserve, accurate 0/+5 seconds a day, and is visible through the sapphire-topped caseback, which is rather unconventional for the brand. Though its vintage-inspired elements imbue a sophisticated look, the watch packs in added versatility with its 100-meter depth rating.

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[shoppable-product handle="monarch-39mm-dark-champagne-on-bracelet"]

Afterword

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This is where the Tudor story ends…for now. But as we all know, this is a tale ongoing. In the past few years, we have seen the brand continue to surprise with watches like the Black Bay 54 – a 37mm heritage-inspired watch we didn’t know we needed – and the pink and Flamingo blue chronographs, which will draw envy from anyone who sees them. This very year, the Royal transformed into a real player in the in-house movement, everyday watch category, and the Black Bay 58 continued its transformation as a Master Chronometer. And 2026 is only halfway done.

This year, in turn, marks 100 years since that original Tudor trademark was filed, thus serving as the beginning of its legacy. Tudor launched the Monarch this year as something of a celebration, and we will continue to watch as the rest of this centennial year plays out. More than that, we are excited to see how Tudor – a brand that has really cemented itself as a major name in luxury tool watches – persists in executing on the original idea Hans Wildorf set forth. Our team really enjoyed bringing this Tudor guide to you, and we hope you are able to return to it time and time again.