TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph 'Glassbox' Review

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” was released back in 2023 and has since been regarded as one of the finest vintage reinterpretations on the market. This mostly for two reasons, the first simply being that it was not a limited edition unlike every iteration dating back to when the line was introduced all the way back in 2015 with the Calibre 18 Telemeter. Second, they nailed the case proportions as well as the irresistibly charming domed sapphire crystal aka ‘Glassbox’.

The original Heuer Carrera was the debuted back in 1963 as the brainchild of none other than Jack Heuer. Since then TAG Heuer has become one of the quintessential “chronograph brands” out there but it was the 2023 release of the Carrera Chronograph“Glassbox” that felt like a full-circle moment. The vintage-inspired design and 39mm case size coupled with contemporary finishing and manufacturing capabilities makes for one of the best chronographs on the market.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph "Glassbox" Case

The case size here is near-universally praised due to the nice and wearable proportions that balance that old school chronograph aesthetic with modern finishing techniques. Measuring 39mm wide and 13.86 mm thick with a 45.7mm lug-to-lug measurement (with 100 m of water resistance), the Glassbox is a compact package that makes a pretty strong statement. Sure, the original was 36mm and while I believe a re-edition in that case size would be a hit amongst a small enthusiast base (perhaps as a limited edition), the 39mm size is right there in the “goldilocks” zone for buyers in 2025. It is a little bit on the thicker side but let’s remember that the dramatic and substantial crystal is responsible for about 2mm of thickness here. It’s just part of the package and I don’t think we need to dissect it as some kind of flaw when its so central to the identity of the watch.

Wearability is excellent with the tight proportions balancing well on the wrist and making for a comfortable fit. This watch is one of those instances where the bracelet (especially the new beads of rice bracelet introduced this year) is excellent but the strap just feels more cohesive with the design. The 20mm perforated strap tapers down to 18mm at the deployant clasp which allows you to fit it to your liking. This is because rather than the typical sizing holes, you can just adjust the strap to whatever length feels right and engage the clasp there. It is a bit of a challenge the first few times due to the thinness of the opening on the clasp but I trust most people will figure it out pretty quickly.

Aesthetically, the broad lugs are nicely faceted and polished in a way that really makes a statement while demonstrating a little laid back restraint. The case sides have some nice brushing, as well. There’s not much in the way of a bezel which is fortunate since we have that large domed box sapphire crystal that creates the dramatic vintage affect of acrylic. And while I would ordinarily defend the cheaper acrylic crystal here for its legibility benefits, the double-sided AR coating on the Glassbox does wonders for legibility.

TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph "Glassbox" Dial

For such a subdued design, I do love how the sloped tachymeter scale on the outer ring of the dial sits beneath that domed crystal. It’s such a wonderfully and dynamic addition and one of the little details that makes this watch such a joy to wear. Otherwise, the dial is fairly straightforward with the tri-compax layout that keeps things from feeling too busy with a demure running seconds counter at 6 o’clock that also houses a date window. At 3 and 9 o’clock you have the more elaborate chronograph sub-dials that are finished with a very nice guilloche pattern. The circular brushed finishing on the dial is a really nice touch, also.

There are a few dial variants of the Glassbox in addition to the blue one you see here including a silver dial with black sub-dials and the purple gradient dial with black sub-dials (which we covered here).

TH20-00 Movement

From the case back you can see the caliber TH20-00 which is an impressive vertical clutch column wheel chronograph and is a re-engineered take on the older Heuer 02 in-house movement. The TH20-00 operates at 4 Hz and has a solid 80-hour power reserve which is well north of what a lot of the competition offers. Could it have some more refinement when it comes to finishing and some little detail flourishes? Yeah, it could. Just a little bit of additional refinement would go a long way, actually.

The “Skipperera”

We also can’t forget that the “Skipperera” which was a revival of the old Carrera Skipper as a standard production model using the Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” as a base. No, it’s not a 1:1 replica of the original Ref. 7754 but it’s another impressively done throwback from TAG Heuer (are you noticing a pattern here?). While the original had a running seconds sub-dial at 9 o’clock, the new model has a 12-hour counter done in a vibrant “Intrepid Teal” color. The slightly different TH20-06 movement makes the 15-minute regatta-timer sub-dial at 3 o’clock possible. And who doesn’t love that eye-catching tri-color segmentation in Lagoon Green, Intrepid Teal, and Regatta Orange?

Final Thoughts

The TAG Heuer Carrera Chronograph “Glassbox” is a really well thought out and satisfyingly executed reinterpretation of a vintage classic. It’s so easy for something like this to go wrong with brands that have been too scared to stray from the original on one end and going way out of left field on the other extreme. TAG Heuer found the right balance and it’s not hard to see why the watch has been such a winner since it’s 2023 release. I personally do prefer this watch on a strap but there is a very nice bracelet option available as well, though it doesn’t have a micro-adjust or quick-release mechanism which is a bit of a let down. It is priced at $6,600 on strap and $6,900 on bracelet which is a fairly modest premium. You can learn more at tagheuer.com