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Here I am again, in another installment of what seems to be becoming a regularly occurring “alternatives to” programming. Previously, I’ve taken on Cartier’s illustrious Tank, and now, I’m gunning for The Crown. Here I am going to go through some options for those of you trying to find a Rolex alternative (or even just watches that look like Rolex models you're obsessed with).
Before we get into the watches themselves, it’s important to re-establish the rules of the road. It’s necessary to recognize that Rolex is iconic for a reason. The brand has lasting power, makes killer watches that stand the test of time, and has gripped the public consciousness in a way that few other watchmakers have. Each time I meet someone new, and face the typical “what do you do for work?” question, to which I answer “watches,” my interlocutor almost without fail follows that quickly up with, “So, like Rolex?” I rest my case.
While it’s important to pay respect where respect is due, my guiding ethos with watches is that when you’re picking one out, it’s most important to go with something that works for your life and your budget. Rolex, like many other big watch brands, makes aspirational pieces. That's another key element of The Crown’s mystique. So if you have a Rolex watch that you’ve become obsessed with, yes, you can always save up, but you can also break down what you like about that watch beyond the branding – be it its utility, design, aesthetic, etc., – and find something that hits the most important marks to you at a price that isn’t unreasonable for your wallet. And, possibly more importantly, it should be a watch that you’re not afraid to walk around with on your wrist in your daily life. Ideally, the watches I’ve selected below will either tide your appetite before you're ready to make that big watch purchase, or will make you forget why you wanted something else in the first place.
Rolex’s Day-Date was introduced in 1956, and at that time, it was the first automatic watch to indicate the date by fully spelling out the day of the week through a dedicated window on the dial, with the date indicated separately. In the decades since it was unleashed on the watch world, Rolex has made a Day-Date in just about every material construction and combination you can imagine. It’s also famously been a “presidents’ watch,” given that it is often paired with the brand’s semi-circular President bracelet in precious metals. The Rolex Day-Date in its current form is available in 36mm and 40mm sizing.
Price: $159 Case: 41mm; 36mm Movement: Quartz
Timex, as a brand, has its own storied history within the context of American watchmaking, beginning as the Waterbury Clock Company in Connecticut in 1845. Now, we know the brand as one of the leaders of affordable watchmaking, and Timex has adeptly navigated the changing winds of time. With the Legacy Day and Date here, the influence of the Rolex Day-Date is glaringly obvious, and this watch manages to deliver the ultimate key design element – the written-out day-of-the-week window front and center at 12 o’clock – for under $200.
There are two seriously compelling takes on the Day and Date, one in 41mm in a trio of grey, black, and teal-colored dials, and my personal favorite (which is unfortunately out of stock, go figure), the 36mm with either a Tiffany blue or a white dial on a two-tone bracelet. For either size option, the real tradeoff you’re making here is in the movement department, as this design family is only available in quartz at the moment. What I think Timex has done really well here is to deliver a well-priced product that looks much, much more expensive than it is. Timex has really got this part nailed down to a science at this point. All the details are streamlined, the five-link bracelet is a nice touch, and they’ve even included a cyclops lens over the date window at 3 o’clock, though the Timex take is more angular.
Price: $300 Case: 39mm Caliber: Quartz
Another brand with strong American watchmaking roots, Bulova has more than 150 years of history behind it and is responsible for some of the most iconic advertisements in watch and marketing history. I will say that, from my humble perspective, I think the brand does have some work to do in bringing that legacy to the wider public, especially for a younger generation, but that’s neither here nor there. Bulova is still delivering watches with a legacy to back it up at reasonably accessible price points.
The brand’s Surveyor line is one I rarely see talked about, but is pretty much built for this purpose. So much so that you might see an appearance of another model further down in this guide. Of course, we have the day of the week window (the primary ingredient I’m looking for in this section) right at 12 o'clock, while the square date window rests at 3 o’clock. The Surveyor Classic sports a versatile 39mm diameter and is available in a two-toned option and a more classic blue dial, both of which are paired with a matching steel four-link bracelet. Again, we’re working with quartz here (which is to be anticipated at $300), but I will always argue that quartz is a great option if you’re looking for a beater that you don’t have to worry too much about.
Price: $1,045 Case: 42mm Movement: H-40 Automatic
We’re pivoting a bit off from the classic Rolex Day-Date format into a piece that has a bit more quirk, a different utility, and more of its own identity with Hamilton’s Khaki Aviation Pilot Day Date Auto. But as its (long) name suggests, this piece does have the necessary day-of-the-week window at 12, so I don’t think I’m straying too far from the path here.
You might already know this watch by its nickname, the “Cooper,” since this is the watch that made an on-screen appearance in Interstellar on Matthew McConaughey’s wrist while he played Cooper, and one could reasonably argue that this was the watch that launched the hype of the brand’s Khaki Field collection.
The dial is a little busier than that of the Day-Date, but that’s in step with its aviation-inspired roots. The hours are detailed in smaller script closer to the dial’s center, while the minutes are told in applied indices in increments of five, and the minutes hand has been skeletonized at the triangular tip to make things more legible, while giving a callback to 20th Century pilot watch design. This watch is also slightly larger than the Day-Date with its 42mm diameter, and it's the first mechanical watch to make it in the guide thus far with the H-40 automatic caliber. If you like the spelled-out day-of-the-week window, but want something that isn’t so blatantly tied to the Day-Date formula, this one is the way to go.
Next on the list, we’re taking on one of Rolex’s more obviously tool-oriented makes with the Submariner. Launched in 1953, the Submariner was among the first waterproof watches that could take on a depth of 100 meters (330 feet), though now its specs have far surpassed those of its vintage predecessor. It’s something of a blueprint for the tool-watch world. Key features of the Submariner include a unidirectional graduated bezel for timing dives and preventing the bends, rugged water resistance, and a straightforward, utility-driven dial design.
Price: $69.95 Case: 44.2mm Movement: Quartz
It feels fitting to start off this section with a watch that’s a Cult-Classic in itself, with the Casio Duro. Our own Bilal Khan recently made the case for the Duro, so if you want to really dive deep on this one, I recommend checking out his article here.
This one is not necessarily an exact dupe for the Rolex Submariner, but in terms of its utility and variety, not to mention its $70 price tag, the Duro punches above its weight. It’s water-resistant 200 meters, there are plenty of bezel color options to choose from (it's even available on a bracelet), and it’s made to be a beater you can wear into the ground proudly. This one is hyped for good reason.
Price: $835 Case: 38mm Movement: Powermatic 80.611
There are a few different options of Certina’s DS Action Diver that can step toe-to-toe with the Submariner, but I’ve gone with the 38mm automatic variant given the mechanical movement of it all, and I think its size is in a good, versatile sweet spot. Even the geometry of the hour indices is nearly identical, though the DS Action Diver features more trapezoidal indices at 12 and 9, and an arrow-tipped hour marker instead of the familiar “Mercedes” hand used by The Crown. This watch features a unidirectional dive bezel with an aluminum insert, is water-resistant to 300 meters, and is powered by the Swiss-made Powermatic 80.611 automatic movement.
Price: $1,190 Case:40mm Movement: Sellita SW200-1 b
This choice is where I’m exercising a little more creative freedom. Unimatic is one of those indie watchmakers that have ruggedly defined their aesthetic DNA, and doesn’t stray from it. I picked this model over the U1-Classic largely for bezel reasons, which in this case, is unidirectional, 120-clicks, in ceramic, and has been given the Super-LumiNova treatment.
The Modello Uno U1S-PD3 Limited Edition has a 40mm diameter and is in brushed stainless steel, and is water resistant to 300 meters. Another fun detail of this watch is the dual-tone lume, with the hour indices, hand, and lollipop tip on the seconds hand glowing orange, and the minutes hand and key markings on the bezel glowing teal in low-light conditions. As far as the movement is concerned, this watch is powered by the Swiss automatic Sellita SW200-1 b movement, with hacking seconds and a power reserve of 38 hours.
Price: $4,750 Case: 41mm Movement: Calibre MT5602-U
I’m ending this Submariner section here, with a blatantly obvious alternative in the Black Bay. I mean, Tudor and Rolex are sister companies, after all, in the larger Hans Wilsdorf Foundation family. I guess we could call the Black Bay the Submariner’s little, more frugal sister.
The Black Bay measures 41mm and features the brand’s signature snowflake-tipped hour hand, which is its most immediate departure from the Submariner, aside from the branding on the dial. Additionally, the Black Bay is water-resistant to 200 meters and is powered by the METAS-Certified Caliber MT5602-U automatic movement.
I fear I’m treading in precarious waters in my attempts to offer alternatives to arguably Rolex’s most hyped watch, the Daytona. In my search, I’m not limiting myself to replicating the panda dial of Paul Newman’s Daytona (aka, one of the most expensive wristwatches ever sold at auction), but am more going after sleek chronographs at reasonable prices. The Daytona (as a naming convention) originally debuted in 1965 (though its predecessor, the Cosmograph chronograph, debuted two years earlier, without the Daytona name) with motorsports in mind, à la the tricompax dial and tachymeter bezel one-two-punch.
We’re back in the Timex universe for a Rolex alternative, and more precisely, within the brand’s vintage-inspired offerings, with the Q Timex Chronograph. I’m not saying this one is a perfect substitute, and I do have a gripe with that oversized “Q” at the top of the dial, but for under $250, I think the affordability makes up for some of my misgivings about this watch.
Again, I’ll issue my quartz trigger warning now, as this chronograph is not mechanical. That aside, I think the 40mm sizing is versatile, and the tachymeter bezel and tricompax dial layout is all accounted for. This watch has a more cushioned case shape than the Daytona, but I think that adds to its vintage charm, along with the creams and mid-century-inspired details this watch leans into. If you can get past a little business on the dial and are just looking for a solid, attainable chronograph to add to your collection, this would be a strong choice.
Price: $695 Case: 39 mm Movement: Solar-Powered Quartz
This solar-powered chronograph is a fan-favorite for good reason. It’s full of that vintage-inspired charm, carrying the legacy of Seiko’s Speedtimer into the present day, not only at an affordable price point, but managing to pack in the fuss-free operation of a quartz chronograph into versatile and highly wearable proportions with its 39mm diameter and 13.3mm thickness, which has typically been the tradeoff when it comes to solar-powered movements.
The panda-dial tricompax layout adds that "racing history" charm, and Seiko has kept other details to a minimum on the dial, which really boosts this watch’s functional legibility and also makes it feel much more premium than its sub-$700 price point. And, when fully charged, the V192 solar quartz caliber has a whopping six-month reserve of power.
Price: $1,950 Case: 41mm Movement: Valjoux A05.291
Although there is a quartz PR516 Chronograph that’s closer to the typical black-and-white color palette of the Daytona, I’m going with this option, given its automatic movement.
This model pays tribute to the brand’s chronograph of the 1970s, and its domed glassbox sapphire crystal is one of those details that ties in that vintage-inspired charm. The case is slightly larger — at 41mm — than the modern proportions of the Daytona, but not by much. This model is water resistant to 100 meters, and utilizes the Swiss-made Valjoux A05.291 mechanical chronograph movement with manual winding.
Price: $6,600 Case: 39mm Movement: TH20-00 automatic
To call the Carrera a Daytona alternative does make me wince a bit, given that the Carrera has a legacy and cult-following of its own. But if you do have a more flexible budget, and you want to get a watch packed with its own racing-inspired history, it's worth consideration.
This model is a modern take on Jack Heuer’s 2447 NS reverse-panda model, featuring a tricompax chronograph layout with a date window positioned under 12 o’clock. This model also ties in mid-century design inspiration with the dramatically domed sapphire crystal, which follows the curves of the flange to enhance legibility. This Carrera Chronograph measures 39mm in diameter, is water resistant to 100 meters, and is powered by the TH20-00 automatic chronograph caliber that beats at 4 Hz and has an 80-hour power reserve.
It’s one of the most sought-after travel watches on the planet, mixing a sporty aesthetic with frequent-traveler-friendly functionality. The history of the GMT Master begins in 1954 with the “Pepsi” model, when Rolex introduced the ability to read an additional timezone, utilizing the combination of the rotating 24-hour bezel and dedicated fourth hand. It also ushered in the standardized use of “Greenwich Mean Time” into the world of watchmaking, the world timekeeping based on the calculation of mean solar time from the Royal Observatory in Greenwich, London — which, I have heard anecdotally, the French were quite unhappy about. The GMT Master II was unveiled in 1982, and allowed its wearer to independently set the local hand, and, thus, track up to three time zones.
Price: $450 Case: 42.5mm Movement: 4R34
Seiko’s 5 Sports collection has become a fan-favorite, and the SSK033, in its design and functionality, is a great place to start if you like the utility of the GMT-Master. The color palette strikes me as a little more playful, a bit less self-serious than the GMT-Master's, with the combination of the white dial and black-and-blue 24-hour bezel. The SSK033 has a slightly larger wrist presence with its 42.5mm diameter, is paired with a five-link bracelet that definitely captures the Jubilee bracelet look, and is powered by the 4R34 automatic movement.
Price: $1,030 Case: 39mm Movement:SOPROD C125 automatic GMT
I always like to work in smaller, independent brands in this kind of roundup when I can, and Baltic’s Aquascaphe is more than up to the task of being a Rolex GMT-Master II alternative. Baltic has been able to secure quite a dedicated following despite its youth, making its debut in 2016.
The Aquascaphe ticks many of the necessary boxes for the task at hand, including the bi-color 24-hour bezel, utilitarian dial, and brightly colored GMT hand. It also has a versatile wrist presence, with its 39mm diameter (47mm lug-to-lug); it’s water resistant to 100 meters; and it's powered by the automatic Soprod C125 GMT movement, all for just over $1,000. I’m very "pro" at showing these indie brands some love; the landscape is only growing more and more competitive.
Price: $4,500 Case: 39mm Movement: L844.4 Automatic
I would say that the Spirit Zulu Time is more of an alternative to the GMT-Master II in its utility, rather than a direct homage in style, but it does deserve recognition for being one of the most attainable GMTs with an in-house manufactured movement on the current market. I’m going with the newer Titanium model in this instance, which is at a slightly higher price point than its steel counterparts. This choice is rather arbitrary — you can’t go wrong with any of the Spirit Zulu Time models — but I just happen to like the color choices and the lightweight titanium feel this model has.
Before the original GMT-Master hit the scene, Longines had already made its own dual timezone watch in 1925, which features the “Zulu” flag with the “Z” standing in for the universal time for aviators. This model is 39mm (46.8mm lug-to-lug) and features a black 24-hour bezel with a ceramic insert, gold-toned indices, and a red arrow-tipped GMT hand. Inside the case is the automatic L844.4 caliber, made exclusively for Longines.
Price: $4,675 Case: 41mm Movement: Calibre MT5652 automatic
I’m sure the moment you scrolled to the GMT-Master section, you were anticipating the Black Bay GMT to make an appearance. Introduced in 2018, the design, aesthetic, and utility of the Black Bay quite obviously make it the little sister of the GMT-Master II, and Tudor isn’t making any attempts to conceal it. Not that it has to, or should.
I’ve gone with the “Pepsi” iteration of the Black Bay GMT with its red and blue 24-hour bezel, though there are now several colorways to choose from, and also the BB 58 GMT to consider. The Black Bay GMT is slightly larger than the typical GMT-Master II, with its 41mm diameter, features a red snowflake GMT hand, and is water-resistant 200 meters. In the movement department, the Black Bay 58 GMT is powered by the COSC-Certified manufacture Caliber MT5652.
Rolex’s Explorer is what I think of as the brand’s most humble, down-to-earth tool watches, if I am free to personify its vibe. The first Explorer, with its adventure-inspired DNA, can be traced back to 1953, with the 6150 model establishing the key identifying elements of the line: the inverted triangle at 12 o’clock, numerals at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock, and bar indexes at the other hour positions. For a full deep dive into the history of the explorer, you can check out our guide here.
Price: $499 Case: 36mm Movement: Miyota 90S5 automatic
The Explorer format is relatively simple to emulate, given its minimalistic take on mid-century design and time-only functionality, so it's no wonder there are so many great similar options at more approachable price points. Where the Lorier Falcon pivots is in the case of its dial, which has a textural finish, rather than the flat matte that the Rolex Explorer leans on.
The Lorier Falcon, like most of the indie brand's makes, leans heavily on vintage inspiration, and that’s carried through with this watch’s 36mm sizing. This watch leans into sportiness with its stainless steel bracelet, though it would admittedly look quite dashing on a strap, is water-resistant 100 meters, and is powered by the Miyota 90S5 automatic movement.
Price: $600 Case: 39mm Movement: SW200-1 Elaboré
This watch is a pretty unabashed stab at the Explorer, for under $600, no less. It’s really leaning into the quintessential style of the Explorer, down to the Mercedes-tipped hour hand and lollipop-tipped seconds hand. I think from across the room, unless you have a Rolex buff within eyeshot, you might not even be able to tell the difference, aside from the 39mm case size. Additionally, this watch is water-resistant 100 meters and powered by the Swiss-made SW200-1 Elaboré caliber.
Price: $1,095 Case: 38mm Movement: P024 automatic
This model is the modern interpretation of Nivada Grenchen’s 1950s Antarctic, which was used by the American Navy’s Deep Freeze 1 Unit as they explored the South Pole, so not only is it aesthetically similar to the Rolex Explorer, but also thematically.
The parallels between the dial design of the Explorer and Super Antarctic couldn’t be clearer, and the dial is also notably black. But there’s really no comparison between the two watches, given that the Super Antarctic retails for just over $1,000 when paired with a bracelet (the beads-of-rice bracelet is my personal favorite). The Super Antarctic is 38mm, exactly in between the 36mm and 40mm size that the Explorer II utilizes in its contemporary identity. This watch is also powered by a Swiss-made P024 automatic movement, and is water-resistant 100 meters.
The Rolex Datejust has been a mainstay of its repertoire since being introduced in 1945 in celebration of the brand’s 40th anniversary. Unlike many of Rolex's tool-oriented models, the Datejust was launched without any specialized utility other than to be a great-looking, versatile wristwatch with time and date functionality, though it was the first to introduce a date complication that would automatically change as the watch struck midnight. Until the introduction of the 41mm Datejust II in 2009, the Datejust was offered in 36mm sizing. The Datejust is now available in a smaller 31mm size, with even smaller case dimensions available within the Lady Datejust family.
Price: $475 Case: 39mm Movement: Miyota 8215 automatic
I warned you earlier that you might encounter another Bulova Surveyor on this list, and the time has arrived to give a different take on the line, and another shot at The Crown. This model is 39mm, and even features that Cyclops date window that makes the Datejust so distinctive. This model also features baton indices that aren’t too different from the ones you’d see on a Datejust. The big difference here is Bulova’s signature tuning fork emblem, which rests just under the 12 o’clock position. And, despite what its sub-$500 price might suggest, this watch is powered by a mechanical movement with the Miyota 8215 automatic caliber.
Price: $875 Case: 40mm Movement: Powermatic 80 Automatic
It might be in this section that I take the most creative liberty and pivot towards offering Rolex alternatives with time-and-date functionality at competitive prices. It seems that in this department, most watch brands have strayed away from directly imitating the Datejust, and instead, maintain their own aesthetic identities for their time-and-date watches. That being said, the Tissot Gentleman is a great place to begin this section. It’s classic, versatile, and is just one of the best options for a one-and-done watch collection with a Swiss-made movement on the market today. You already know it, and likely, already love it, but again, sometimes it's important to restate the obvious.
The Tissot Gentleman is available in a variety of colorways (something that the Datejust line is also known for), as well as both 40mm and 42mm sizing with either quartz or automatic movement options. The dark blue model, driven by the Powermatic 80 movement, strikes me as the most versatile of the bunch, so that’s what I’ve gone with for my peace of mind.
Price: $2,200 Case: 38mm Movement: L888 automatic
Again, this is a little more of a stretch and less of an identical alternative, but I’m locking in on the versatility of the Conquest line, the variety of options in color and style to choose from, and the brand’s staple collection of everyday, GADA watches.
The Conquest collection was originally launched in 1954, though it has received a major facelift over the years to bring it up to contemporary standards. The most unisex sizing of the current lineup is the 38mm iteration, though the Conquest is also available in both larger 41mm and (my personal favorite) 34mm sizing, all of which are powered by automatic mechanical movements. Additionally, all of the Conquest models are water resistant to 100 meters, and can be paired with bracelets or a wide variety of rubber straps. The 38mm model we have at hand here utilizes the L888 automatic caliber, which can be seen through the exhibition-style caseback.
So there are my picks for a Rolex alternative and if there's more you want to learn about the brand, you can take a look at rolex.com
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1 Comment
I own a couple Datejusts and bought a Tissot Gentleman due to Teddy’s praise of the watch. The Gentleman is an excellent watch for the money but is not an alternative to a Datejust. The Traska Commuter, the Christopher Ward C63 Sealander (non-GMT), Grand Seiko SBGA407 or quartz date models feel much more like a Datejust.