Vacheron Constantin Updates Its Retro-Look FiftySix Collection With Bolder Sectored Dials

Vacheron Constantin introduced the FiftySix collection in 2018, basing it upon a vintage watch from Vacheron Constantin’s vast archives, the fondly remembered Reference 6073, which debuted on the market in (naturally) 1956. Defined by its distinctively curved case and lugs, resembling the shape of Vacheron’s Maltese cross emblem, and its era-appropriate sector-dial designs, the FiftySix is arguably the maison’s most casual-chic collection and up until now, though perhaps not entirely by design, one of its least hyped. Vacheron Constantin hopes to change that with the latest revamp of the FiftySix, unveiled this week, which doubles down on the sectored dial design with a more high-contrast execution and elevates the finishing on the cases.

The reimagining of the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix begins with two of its flagship models, the three-handed FiftySix Self-Winding and the everyday-complication FiftySix Complete Calendar. Enthusiasts will recognize the basic aesthetic elements established in the first generation, including the stainless steel cases measuring 40mm in diameter and 9.6mm thick, with beveled lugs and a box-style sapphire crystal over the dial. The dials themselves retain the hallmark sector layout, with concentric circles that features contrasting finishes. But a closer look reveals a bolder approach to both: the vertical brushing on the lugs is now enhanced with polishing on their bevels, and the vertical brushing on the case sides offers contrast with the polished surfaces of the bezel, crown, and (on the Complete Calendar) correctors. 

The dials present an even more stark departure from their predecessors: rather than the more subtle, monochromatic treatment of earlier models, in which finish textures across the concentric circles varied but a single overall colorway dominated, these new FiftySix models use darker and lighter shades across the dial’s expanse, more sharply defining the sectors and leaning more into a classic “tuxedo dial” aesthetic.

The FiftySix Self-Winding model now combines an opaline center in light grey, a sunburst-finished chapter ring in darker gray, and on the outer perimeter, another light gray ring for the minute track with a snailed finish.The date window at 3 o’clock is positioned precisely in line with the center of the inner white minute track that provides a border between light and dark areas on the dial. The baton hour and minute hands, as well as the applied Arabic numerals and rectangular markers that alternate to mark the hours, are made of 18k white gold and treated with blue Super-LumiNova. The self-winding manufacture movement inside, which beats behind a sapphire exhibition caseback, remains the Caliber 1326, with a 48-hour power reserve and a host of high-horology flourishes, including côtes de Genève, circular graining and snailing, and an openworked 22k gold rotor.

The dial of the Vacheron Constantin FiftySix Complete Calendar offers an elegant, high-contrast dial arrangement, with an opaline dark gray center, bordered by a light gray sunburst chapter ring with a thin, white minute track providing separation. On the outermost edge is a black date ring with white text and a snailed finish. The calendar indications are placed in the same harmonious arrangement set down by this watch’s predecessor: the day of the week and month spelled out in parallel windows on the upper half of the dial, a color-matched moon-phase indicator in the lower half, and the date displayed on the aforementioned outer 31-day scale via a center-mounted hand. Like the Self-Winding model, the Complete Calendar has a 40mm stainless steel case with the same array of finishes on the lines, lugs, and bevels, and uses 18k white gold for the dial’s hands and applied hour markers, The movement inside, Vacheron Constantin’s automatic Caliber 2460QCL/1, drives all the timekeeping and calendar functions, including the highly precise moon-phase, which should require no adjustment for 122 years. Storing a power reserve of 40 hours, its decorative embellishments are visible behind a sapphire caseback, notably its polished and brushed 22K gold rotor with its applied Maltese cross motif. 

Both new Vacheron Constantin FiftySix watches are mounted on new, gray-toned straps in nubuck leather, with ecru contrast stitching and soft calfskin lining, and fasten to the wrist with steel folding clasps. The FiftySix Self-Winding is priced at $14,300, while the FiftySix Complete Calendar carries an MSRP of $33,900. You can learn more at vacheron-constantin.com