10 Rolex Submariner Alternatives For Every Budget

We’re back again with another episode of "Affordable Alternatives to Iconic Watches." A few weeks ago, I first took on the most popular Rolex watches and collections, but today, we’re getting a little more granular with Rolex Submariner alternatives. Though I’m not a diver by any stretch of the imagination, I think of summer as peak dive-watch season (along with colorful watches that can handle a day by the beach, which is more my speed), so now feels like a great time to take a deep dive into some alternatives to the Crown’s archetypal dive watch. 

Since I already gave a sampling platter of alternatives to the Rolex Submariner in my previous article, I will refrain from repeating myself, though I still stand by those picks. It’s my duty to keep things fresh, after all. In the case of Rolex Submariner alternatives, the key things I’m looking for are similarity in form and function to the design, which means it’s gotta be a dive watch with a unidirectional bezel, with a streamlined, legibility-forward dial, somewhere close to 40mm dimensions. Luckily for me (and for you), the Submariner is ultimately just a no-nonsense, tool-oriented diver, so there are plenty of watches out there that fit the bill. 

Submariner History

As always, before we get into the watches themselves, it's helpful to begin with a little history primer. To walk through the entire history of the Rolex Submariner, I will refer you now to this article. Though Blancpain’s Fifty Fathoms ultimately holds the title of the world’s first true diver’s watch, and is the blueprint for all modern divers, the Rolex Submariner hit the scene just a year later, with the first commercially available models debuting in 1954. That year, the Crown launched two similar references (6204 and 6205, respectively), which both featured a black lacquer dial, gold hands, 37mm sizing, and had impressive water resistance of 100 meters, which was a technological feat for the time. 

The Submariner would solidify its position in the cultural imagination with its on-screen appearance in the 1960s, gaining the prestige of being the first James Bond watch in Dr. No with the “Big Crown” Ref. 5368. Shortly after the release of the original Submariner, the Crown’s innovation on the water-resistance front expanded dramatically, doubling the depth rating just the following year. Another pivotal year for the Submariner was 1987, which saw the introduction of Ref. 16610, the first to adopt the 40mm case size along with 300 meters of water resistance. 

A key factor of what has made the Submariner stand the test of time is that, through the years, the DNA of the Submariner has remained largely untouched. The mid-century design flair and tool-forward ethos have remained remarkably unchanged, despite subtle shifts in case size, bracelet construction, and technological upgrades in the movement department through the years. Consistency continues to be a key factor in what sets an icon in the watch world apart from the pack. 

Timex Deepwater Reef 200

I like to begin these roundups at the most affordable price point, and with the Deepwater Reef, Timex delivers a rugged, dive-ready watch with 200 meters of water resistance for under $300. Not too shabby, Timex. Even the geometry of the luminous hour markers is remarkably similar to those of the Submariner — which is a huge plus, though you’re not going to find that iconic Mercedes-tipped hour hand here. 

The Timex Deepwater has a little more of a quirky touch than the Submariner, with its black wave-patterned dial, but to me, this detail isn’t too distracting and infuses a little more personality into the overall design. To achieve its 200-meter depth rating, this watch has a screw-down crown and solid screw-down caseback. The stainless steel bracelet this watch is paired with, though it isn’t three-link, has a vibe similar to the Crown’s Oyster bracelet with its flat links, and helps make this watch feel much more premium than its $259 price tag would suggest. Of course, as to be expected at this price point, we’re working with a quartz movement here. But instead of looking at that as a drawback, I think in this case, the quartz is kind of a no-fuss plus, and helps make the Deepwater Reef even more of a daily Summer beater. 

Seiko SRPK29

I’m actually a bit surprised at myself for not including this watch in my initial Rolex Submariner alternatives picks – but I’m pleasantly surprised, for the sake of this roundup. The Seiko SRPK29 is housed within Seiko’s much-adored 5 Sports collection, and has been going strong with the enthusiast crowd since the model hit the scene in 2023. Not only does it make a great, affordable alternative to the Rolex Submariner, but I would argue in general that it makes a great option for a first mechanical watch. 

The SRPK29 gets my vote of approval in this roundup and beyond because it really is so versatile. Though it's a couple of millimeters off from the familiar 40mm or 41mm sizing of the Submariner, I think the smaller 38mm only adds to its versatility. The SRPK29 calls to the fan-favorite SKX design, but it has its own flair going on, and the steel three-row bracelet also gives me Oyster bracelet vibes. For its dive-oriented specs, the SRPK29 does feature the necessary unidirectional bezel and 100 meters of water resistance, which isn’t the most extensive on the market today, but still impressive for this price range, which is just slightly above $325. And, though it’s just a touch more expensive than the Timex above, it is powered by an automatic mechanical movement with the 4R36 caliber. 

Breitling Superocean Heritage

This is one of the more expensive picks that’s made it on the list, but given that the Breitling Superocean Heritage collection just got a huge overhaul this week, I feel like it earns a spot close to the top. For the purpose of this round-up, I’m going with the newly launched 40mm sizing with the black dial, but for fans of the Submariner "Hulk," I will point you in the direction of this 40mm green dial model. 

It’s refreshing to see a brand actually listen to the feedback (or demands) of its audience, so to see the Superocean Heritage finally get 40mm sizing in general was a big homerun for me (though I am personally more excited about the 36mm options, selfishly). The most glaring difference between the Superocean Heritage line and the Submariner is that instead of mid-century-diver-inspired hour markers, this watch opts for applied indices, which makes the overall look feel a bit more ready for dressy occasions. The unidirectional dive bezel has also gone for a more streamlined look with its foregoing of numerals, and you’ll be happy to know that the insert is in ceramic. Another huge win for this watch is that Breitling's recently launched B31 Caliber has officially made its way to the Superocean Heritage collection, and it's on full display through the exhibition caseback. This watch is water-resistant to 200 meters, and the model I’ve gone with is paired with a stainless steel mesh bracelet, which I happen to love. This watch is priced at $6,500, so I think if you have more flexibility in your budget and want a diver that’s really ready for any occasion or style of dress, it makes a great option. 

Citizen Promaster Dive

After our more expensive detour, we’re swinging back to the more affordable end of the price spectrum with Citizen’s $450 Promaster Dive. This model is 41mm in steel, not unlike the Submariner of today, and has opted for a utilitarian ethos that aligns with everything I’d expect from a black-dial dive watch. 

This Promaster Dive features the familiar, mid-century-inspired hour markers, which are coated in Super-LumiNova, of course, set against a black dial with a sunray finish. Where this watch really stands out from the pack is that it utilizes the brand’s solar-powered Eco-Drive E168 movement, which uses both artificial and natural light for power. For the true divers out there, the bracelet also features an extender detail that can be used to fit the watch comfortably over a wetsuit, or just doubles as a tool-free micro-adjust system. Additionally, this watch is water-resistant 200 meters, and ships with a funky dive tank box. If you prefer the lightweight feel of titanium, there’s also this titanium Promaster Dive option (and it’s currently on sale for $412.50, by the way). 

Tissot Seastar 1000 40mm 

Among the contemporary Tissot catalog, the dive-oriented Seastar 1000 is one that I don’t see getting a lot of attention. Maybe it's the quartz movement of it all. Despite that, among Tissot’s current options, I think this black-dial 40mm model makes the strongest case for being on the list of Rolex Submariner alternatives coming in under the $500 mark. 

This watch goes for the mid-century dive watch style indices. I’m not sure if it's that the bezel is thinner or the indices are just smaller, but there’s some kind of optical illusion thing going on that makes the dial feel bigger than it is to my eye. This mid-sized option within the Seastar family adds a date window to the mix at 6 o’clock, but other than that, the dial text is pleasantly minimal, without any additions that throw off the overall balance. Of course, we’ve got the unidirectional dive bezel encircling the dial, plenty of Super-LumiNova details for any low-light conditions, and, as the name alludes,  this watch has a depth rating of 1,000 feet, or 300 meters. Additionally, the Seastar 1000 has a quick-change strap system in case you want to swap the three-link bracelet out for a rubber strap, and a closed caseback with a Seahorse on it, which I find fun and adorable. If the use of quartz here is really a deal breaker, there’s also a 40mm Seastar 1000 with an automatic movement available, though it will cost you nearly double the price of this one (which is $475, to be exact). To each their own. 

Mido Ocean Star

Here we have another diver with a wave-pattern-dial twist; something must be in the water with these brands (ba-dum-tss). Mido’s Ocean Star diver line has been around since 1959, though its modern identity is pretty much completely unrecognizable to the original. What remains the same is really the dedication to dive resistance here, and the Ocean Star of today is much more aligned with the contemporary landscape of watches, though I will admit it would be cool to see a remake of the original gold-toned, very '50s model. 

Back to the watch at hand, this Ocean Star opts for 39mm sizing, which is right in Goldilocks territory. The real standout is the aforementioned wave pattern dial, which has undergone the gradient effect treatment, fading to lighter hues of silvery grey toward the bottom of the dial. This is a small detail, but it really helps the three-dimensional textures really pop, adding even more play with depth and shadow. The Ocean Star is water resistant to 200 meters with its screw-down crown, and features a closed caseback with the line's signature starfish emblem. The movement in question is the automatic Mido ETA Caliber 72, which is equipped with a Nivachron balance spring and a weekend-proof power reserve of 72 hours. Overall, this watch is utilitarian with a playful twist, and is priced at $1,160. 

Certina DS Action Diver 43mm Titanium

Okay, I am cheating here just a tad, since I did use a DS Action Diver in my original list, but this one is technically a different model, so there. It’s also in lightweight titanium, so don’t be too upset with me. The collection is just a really great alternative to the Rolex Submariner; it’s not my fault. 

What I really like about this model is that the "fauxtina" on the dial mimics some of the vintage Submariner dials out there, so if you prefer a vintage Sub to its modern counterparts, this one might be up your alley. I think the vintage-inspired lume and tones in general also complement the deep grey hues of the brushed titanium quite handsomely. This watch is up to the standards of ISO 6425 with its 300 meters of water resistance, and carries the brown vintage tones onto the ceramic bezel, which ties the aesthetic together neatly. This watch is powered by the Powermatic 80 6.111 movement, and priced at $1,190, which is quite competitive for a titanium dive watch with an automatic movement, in my humble opinion.

Raymond Weil Freelancer Diver

In recent years, the Raymond Weil model family that has gotten the most praise has been its Millesime collection, but the brand does have a no-nonsense diver hidden in plain sight with its Freelancer Divers. 

This model is a little larger than the typical Submariner with its 42.5mm diameter, but since I’ve selected quite a few that are smaller on this list, it’s nice to have an option in the other direction. As far as the design language goes, this Freelancer Diver is pretty much everything you want in a dive watch with no frills – unless you would consider the color-matched date window at six o’clock a frill. You’ve got the unidirectional black ceramic dive bezel, a black dial with a sight gradient detail, 300 meters of water resistance, and a five-link bracelet that helps the watch feel slightly more elevated than your typical diver. The movement within is the automatic RW4200 mechanical movement, and the watch is priced at $2,650. 

Longines HydroConquest

We’re closing out the list of Rolex Submariner alternatives with a pick that might have the funkiest dial layout on the list: the Longines HydroConquest. Though I think that the brand’s other GMT takes on the HydroConquest might actually be a closer alternative to the Submariner, we’re talking about rugged dive watch utility here, so let’s not muddy the waters with any additional complications, capiche?

With those oversized mid-century numerals at twelve, six, and nine o’clock, I think that there’s an argument to be made here that this HydroConquest is the lovechild of the Rolex Submariner and the Rolex Explorer. Another quirky detail of this watch is its quite dramatically sized screw-down crown, which also makes me think a little bit of Panerai there. This model is in 41mm, features a dial-matching black ceramic dive bezel, has dive-ready water resistance up to 300 meters, and is priced at $1,850. For the movement, this HydroConquest uses the L888 automatic caliber with a power reserve of 72 hours.