10 Cartier Crash Alternatives For Every Budget

We’re back at it again with another "alternatives" roundup for some of the most iconic watches in watchmaking history, and in this episode, we’re getting more quirky than we ever have before. Which is only fitting given today’s subject, which is one of the most subversive watch designs of all time: the illustrious Cartier Crash. 

Before I launch into some quick Cartier Crash history and then contemporary alternatives at multiple budgets, let’s establish some key design ingredients in the recipe at hand. Because I didn’t want to make you all eat up some AliExpress Cartier Crash phonies, and because the design is so iconic that most watchmakers haven’t really attempted their own imitations, I will be leaning into asymmetry or hints at surrealism here instead of more 1:1 design alternatives. Before I begin, I will say that the avant-garde era of the 1960s and '70s, before the big houses had such rigid design codes, is one of my favorites in watchmaking history. Here in the modern age, many brands seem less willing to experiment boldly, and really keep things, largely, safe. Still, there are some asymmetrical watch gems out there, and below, they will get a little time in the spotlight. I will warn you now that on the current market, prices for more bold watch designs run a little steep, so the budget I’m working around here is at a higher price point than I try to stick to (though I have thrown in some affordable options). But given the exorbitant prices of the Cartier Crash on the secondary market, I would argue that this caveat is par for the course. 

Cartier Crash History

As I’ve already touched on above, the 1960s were the heydays of counterculture, nonconformity, and exploration of new ideas, technology, and possibility, and what’s happening in the larger cultural imagination always directly impacts the watchmaking world, as it does to all design mediums. The origin of the Cartier Crash, like many lasting watch designs, is shrouded in myth. Was it inspired by the surrealism of the melting watches in Salvador Dalí’s painting? Or by a melted Maxi Oval watch after a car crash? Or some secret third option? Whatever the truth may be, ultimately, under the guidance of Jean-Jacques Cartier of the brand’s London branch and designer Rupert Emmerson, the brand’s popular Maxi Oval watch design was remixed “by pinching the ends at a point and pulling a kink in the middle.”

Photo Credit: Sotheby's

While the idea was solidified, making this unique case design come to life presented a myriad of challenges. Not only would watchmakers have to employ some clever techniques to make a movement to fit into the irregular-shaped case, but making the numerals appear distorted yet still legible enough to read the time presented its own challenge. In the end, the Jaeger-LeCoultre Caliber 841 was chosen for the movement, and for the original model, Emerson hand-painted the dial himself, landing on the well-known layout after much experimentation. The first generation of the Cartier Crash hit the scene in 1967, with the models made up until the 1990s featuring “London” printed on their dials, denoting their London origins, and are now known as the “London Crash” models. 

Given its unconventional, audacious design, the reception of the Cartier Crash at its time was expectedly mixed. Still, to this day, it's something of a polarizing watch, but the Cartier Crash has always won the favor of those unafraid of the avant-garde. In the years since, the Crash has become something of a rockstar at auctions, with some significantly rare pieces going for prices in the hundreds of thousands. Other than experimentations with gem settings, precious metal construction, and new dial designs, Cartier continues reimagining its Crash, dipping into skeletonized dial variations as recent as 2015. For a more in-depth history of the Cartier Crash, feel free to take the deep dive with this article we’ve previously published on the subject.

Berneron Mirage 

While I typically like to begin these articles with the most affordably priced option, in the case of Cartier Crash alternatives, it seems more logical to begin with the closest aesthetic contender before going into my funkier picks. Thus, I begin with a heavy hitter from the young, independent watchmaking brand Berneron. It's called the Mirage, and it has recently set the watch world on fire with its latest irregularly shaped editions.

The comparison between the Berneron Mirage and the Cartier Crash is quite obvious, but the fledgling brand has inarguably managed to coin its own unique design language that makes it give the Crash a run for its money. The brand says that the Mirage was actually worked from the movement up, unlike most watch designs, which start with the case shape. The proprietary 233 caliber within is intentionally lacking in symmetry, and features a pocket-watch-style balance wheel, and the rounded, fluid form of the case was made intentionally to complement the inner mechanics. I love the surrealist bend of the numerals on this piece, which, like the Cartier Crash, calls to mind the melting clocks seen in Dalí’s The Persistence of Memory, and I love that the shape of the hands has also been experimented with to match. It’s really just a great example of independent watchmakers delivering on a small scale what the more mass-produced brands can’t or won’t. Of course, the Berneron Mirage falls in the category of haute horology, and it is not affordable by any stretch of the imagination (USD pricing is around $80,000). Despite its price tag, Berneron has managed to sell out of its initial rounds of the Mirage, and there’s a waiting list until at least 2027 to get your hands on one. We love to see an independent brand win. 

Hamilton Ventura

Okay, now we’re swinging back to the more affordable end of the Cartier Crash Alternatives spectrum. We’re also going to begin to really use our imaginations here on the comparison. But the main ingredient I’m looking for in this roundup is asymmetry, especially for the case shapes, and the Hamilton Ventura has that key detail in the bag. 

In addition to its bold, shield-like, asymmetrical case, Hamilton’s Ventura also has its own pop-culture connection, or should I say Rock ‘n’ Roll? Yep, the King himself, Elvis Presley, was famously an early adopter of the Ventura, and rocked a white-gold model while filming Blue Hawaii. He owned many models through the years, and was known to often give them as gifts to close friends. The watch also made an on-screen appearance in the Men in Black movies. Though Hamilton has done away with its precious metal models of the Ventura, the line has been a staple in the brand’s catalog, and remains largely aesthetically unchanged from its mid-century models, excluding the Dune limited-edition models and some chronograph makes. I’ve gone with the larger black-dial model here, which features a 32mm x 50mm asymmetrical case, is quartz powered, and retails for $925. 

Exaequo Melting Watch

Now, we’re moving on to what might be the most competitively priced and closest aesthetic alternative to the Cartier Crash on this list: Exaequo’s Melting Watch. Though the brand knows better than to directly cite Cartier as an influence on its own website, the parallels here are clear. The brand actually exclusively makes melting-style watches, now in a few different case shapes, fully leaning into its aesthetics informed by surrealist ideals. 

I’ve gone with its “Classic” line of melting watches, first, because it is the brand’s most competitively priced model family, and second, because I think the case shape itself is just different enough from the Cartier Crash that it offers something unique. It’s Revolve line, on the other hand, more closely resembles the pinched form of the Cartier Crash, so feel free to check that out and see what you prefer. For this roundup, I’ve gone with the stainless-steel model with a white dial and yellow-gold-toned PVD coating, as it's most similar to the original Cartier Crash, but you’ve got quite a few different models to explore.  The Exaequo Classic Melting Watch is quartz-powered, and currently retails for around $688 (CHF 550.00). 

Laarvee Sinngouki Digital Watch

Even though I’ve already primed you to stretch your imagination for this roundup in particular, this might just be my most “hear me out” pick. I get it – there’s no Roman numerals (or any numerals at all for that matter), no dress-watch appeal, and this is a digital watch, for crying out loud. I can hear the boos and hissing and the horizon. But what if we took that melted, asymmetrical feel of the Cartier Crash and gave it a little bit of a G-Shocktwist? Then, we would undoubtedly arrive at this crazy digital watch from Laarvee. 

Am I allowed to say that this watch is kinda like, "What if the Cartier Crash left its dress watch past behind, and decided to go full streetwear?" Well, this is my article, so yes, yes, I can. This brand does make some melted-style divers, but since I couldn’t ascertain whether the dive bezel was actually functional, I’ve gone with the digital. Side note, I also just think it looks much cooler. This is the brand’s first foray into digital watches, and it claims to have made its own digital movement for this watch and its twisted-style case. I think the melted digital display is a fun touch, and there’s also a window with a digital heart labeled “True Love Matters,” which is another win for quirkiness. As for functionality, this piece is equipped with a suite of timekeeping, stopwatch, and alarm functions that you’d typically expect from a digital watch. This watch measures 41 x 47.5mm in stainless steel, and is shock-resistant, water-resistant to 30 meters, and retails for $319. 

Anoma A1 Slate

Again, we’re going for intriguing, ideally asymmetrical, case shapes for this episode of Cartier Crash Alternatives. Now, we’re moving into really triangular territory with the latest take on Anoma’s A1 line, here in its slate rendition. In its case shape and dial design, to me, the Anoma A1 calls to mind the Space Age era of design, which was also in the air around the time of the original release of the Cartier Crash in 1967. 

What’s really visually intriguing about the A1 in particular is that its triangular case and dial aren’t perfectly aligned, but the dial has been shifted, so the overall visual impact is much more dynamic. I think the overall simplicity and flow of the design is also a huge win. Anoma details that it was inspired by the smoothness of river stones for the feel of its case, and the watch’s overall resistance to any sharp angles. The A1 is sculptural, organic, and slightly modernist, and is another example of independent watch brands really bringing the heat, and delivering us tired watch journalists out there something truly experimental, and surprisingly, not at an over-the-top price tag. The Anoma A1 Slate is 39mm in diameter, though it wears a bit smaller due to its lack of lugs, is powered by the Swiss automatic Sellita SW100 caliber, and is priced at roughly $2,750 (£1,800 GBP). Unfortunately, this watch has already sold out at the time of writing, so stay on the lookout for further restocking if you’re interested. 

Audemars Piguet (Re)Master02

I’ve already warned you that there are going to be a few big-ticket watches on this list, and here we have another of such kind with the (Re)Master02 from Audemars Piguet. Instead of the surrealism associated with the Cartier Crash, this watch channels brutalist design with sharp, dramatic angles, and yes, this still counts as asymmetrical in my book. 

The AP (Re)Master02 is, in fact, a tribute to some of the audacious shapes that the brand experimented with in the late '50s and '60s; in particular, it's a revamp of the Model 5159BA created in 1960. It’s quite the faithful heritage reissue, with the most obvious shifts being the choice of proprietary sand-gold case over the yellow gold of the original, along with a dial in varying shades of blue. This watch always reminds me of a mid-century modern desk or wall clock, which I personally am very into. Another way that the brand has obviously made some contemporary upgrades is in the movement department, and this watch utilizes the in-house manufactured 7129 automatic caliber. Released as a 250-piece limited edition, the Audemars Piguet (Re)Master02 is priced at $47,200.  

Toledano & Chan b/1.2

Continuing on the brutalism-meets-asymmetry path, next up on our roundup of Cartier Crash Alternatives is independent watchmaker Toledano & Chan’s b/1.2. Again, we’re veering very far aesthetically from the Cartier Crash, but I would argue that we haven’t veered too far off course in terms of design spirit. 

Like I already mentioned above, the current Toledano & Chan catalog, though it isn’t extensive yet,  is based thematically on channeling key design elements of brutalist architecture into watch form. This is primarily done with the use of an angular, right-leaning, asymmetrical trapezoidal case, which is also the reason this watch made the cut as a Cartier Crash alternative in the first place. This model was the second that the brand debuted, maintaining the structural case design paired with an equally architectural integrated bracelet, with simple time-only functionality as the original b/1, but swapping out the lapis lazuli dial for Tahitian mother of pearl. Measuring 33.5mm in width and powered by the Swiss Sellita SW100 automatic movement, the Toledano & Chan b/1.2 is priced at $6,300. 

Franck Muller Silhouette CX Snake

Since, as it turns out, finding asymmetrical watches at approachable price points proves to be quite difficult, I’m going to continue going on the fun, pie-in-the-sky budget territory for my Cartier Crash alternatives with the Franck Muller Silhouette CX Snake, which was released earlier this year, and which almost no one has talked about. Maybe that’s because it's only available for purchase across Asia Pacific and is limited to 28 pieces. 

While Franck Muller tends to keep things symmetrical in its cases, this watch really leans into the serpentine inspiration, not only on the dial, but in the case itself. Made of 18k rose gold, both sides of the typically tonneau-shaped case have become a little bit more slithery, creating an asymmetrical effect. The way the numerals slope around the dial is also very reminiscent of the Cartier Crash for me. The bold snake detail on the dial is crafted out of an assortment of snow-set emeralds, and the green is further tied into the overall design with the pairing of a green leather strap with a snakeskin textural effect. This watch is powered by the in-house manufactured MVT FM 2038 automatic caliber, and retails for around $38,000. Again, not the most attainable piece out there, but it sure is fun to admire via my computer screen. 

Vacheron Constantin Historique American 1921 

Though I’ve really been hammering home the asymmetrical case factor for these Cartier Crash alternatives, here I’m switching it up a little with Vacheron Constantin’s Historiques American 1921. This watch, more so than many other models on this list, channels the formal, classic, dress-watch appeal that the Cartier Crash still maintains despite the quirkiness of its case. 

What connects this piece to the Cartier Crash, from my perspective, is its shifted dial. Not only does it add some intrigue to the overall dressy appeal of this watch, but this pivoting of the dial is actually quite functional, and allows you to easily read the time without having to turn your wrist. Like you might have been expecting from this watch’s name, the Vacheron Constantin Historique American 1921 is technically a heritage reissue of a watch that the brand produced in, you guessed it, 1921, and it remains quite faithful to the original. Another funky detail of this watch is its crown placement, which is positioned between what is typically one and two o’clock, to line up with where the numeral 12 falls on the dial. This watch is 40mm, is powered by the 4400 AS caliber with manual winding, and (unfortunately) retails for $42,600. 

Cartier Ballon Bleu

Is it cheating to include a pick in this list of Cartier Crash alternatives from Cartier itself? Given that this watch is remarkably less expensive than the Crash, I will say it isn’t cheating, not really. 

I was thinking about going with the Baignore, given my personal affection for the watch, as well as its resemblance to the Cartier Maxi Oval before it was Crash-ified. But my endless quest for asymmetry led me to the Ballon Bleu. Okay, it’s not audaciously asymmetrical, but for me, the cabochon ballooned in the case, and the convex details on the dial and case itself are close enough. And we’re getting a lot of quintessential Cartier details here as well, including Roman numerals. I’ve gone with the no-date large model here, which has a 33mm diameter and is powered by the automatic Caliber 1853 MC movement. The Cartier Ballon Bleu (or Ballon Bleu de Cartier, whichever you prefer) is currently priced at $6,200, which is somehow on the lower end of the price range for this list. What are we coming to? You can learn more about this watch at cartier.com