Before we begin, some important ground rules:
Seiko SRPC91 "Turtle" Save the Ocean Edition
Seiko SRPB53 "Samurai"
Seiko SRPD51 5 Sports
Seiko SBDY033 Prospex Monster Vintage
Nodus Retrospect II
Timex Navi XL Automatic
Dufrane Barton Springs
Dan Henry 1970
Glycine Combat Sub
Citizen Promaster Dive Automatic
Zelos Hammerhead 2 1000M Bronze Midnight Blue
Specification: Price: $449, Case Size: 44mm, Thickness: 17mm, Lug-to-Lug: 48mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Water Resistance: 1,000m, Movement: Seiko NH35 Automatic Power Reserve: 31 Hours, Crystal: Domed Acrylic. Shop here.
The robustly built Zelos Hammerhead dives even deeper than the shark that it's named for — 1,000 meters, thanks in part to its built-in helium release valve. This version has a rugged 44-mm case made of bronze, a material with a long history of maritime use, in diving equipment like helmets and in the hulls of ships. Behind the nautical blue dial is a self-winding movement sourced from Seiko, protected behind an attractive solid caseback with an engraving of the deep-sea predator from which the Hammerhead model derives its name.
Timex Navi XL Automatic Gunmetal Case
Specifications: Price: $259, Case Size: 41mm, Thickness: 13.5mm, Lug Width: 20mm, Water Resistance: 100m, Movement: Mechanical Automatic, Crystal: Mineral. Shop here.
An alternative to the black IP-coated version of this watch covered above, this gunmetal-gray-finished model has its own style of masculine appeal. It's got the same white-on-black date display, big luminous markers, and military-inspired 24-hour inner scale but sports a synthetic rubber strap in place of the all-black model's leather strap, a better option if you're actually planning to go diving with it.
Bulova Sutton Skeleton Stainless Steel
Specification: Price: $400, Case Size: 43mm, Thickness: 12.15mm, Lug-to-Lug: 49mm, Lug Width: 21mm, Water Resistance: 30m, Movement: Miyota 8N26, Power Reserve: 42 Hours, Crystal: Domed Mineral
Rocking a skeleton watch is a great yet none-so-subtle way of broadcasting to the room that you're wearing a watch with a mechanical movement, and fortunately for those horological exhibitionists on a limited budget, ever-reliable Bulova offers one for under half a grand. The 43-mm stainless steel case houses an openworked version of the Japanese Miyota self-winding movement that offers a power reserve of 42 hours. The watch is mounted on a handsome three-link bracelet that fastens securely to the wrist with a push-button deployant clasp.