Short on Time
Watchmaking is a centuries-old craft, and as such, there are brands operating today with no shortage of heritage, not only stewarding the industry as a whole, but also fostering its continued cultural relevancy. Modern relevancy is vital to a crop of young brands looking to make their own mark on history. The complexity of the industry, and the purpose that watchmakers serve in a modern society, may have shifted, but their importance, and indeed their existence, says something deep about the value that humanity places on these things. Today, we find a vast landscape of watch brands and watchmakers operating, providing the most diverse range of watch offerings available to the public than any other time in history. This also begs the question: which are the best?
Settling on the best watch brands operating today is no small task, and of course involves a heavy measure of subjectivity. That said, we can bring some structure to the table in an attempt to qualify the very best by an assortment of metrics, from industry leaders, to gateway brands, and even some wild cards that have the potential to shake things up. But what makes a watch brand great? Is it a consistent history of growth and innovation? Annual sales volume? Number of horological contributions made over time? Wholly verticalized manufacturing? Or is it something a little more amorphous, like public sentiment and goodwill, or risks being taken that net a positive influence on the industry as a whole? As with most things in life, the real answers lie in something of a grey area, and most importantly will vary from enthusiast to enthusiast.
The Best Watch Brands
In real terms, what defines a great brand is the ability to consistently produce products that connect with their intended audience, all while strengthening the underlying foundations of the industry as a whole. The rest is likely just semantics. But in the spirit of identifying the greatest brands operating today, and what makes them so compelling years, decades, and even centuries after the fact, let’s take a closer examination of the ‘greatest brands’ landscape.
The brands we talk about here have had a consistent presence at the forefront of the industry in terms of volume, influence, history, and quality. Many of these brands are household names, and there’s a good reason for that, they’ve been very good at what they do for a very long time. Each of these brands has helped to define the modern styles and trends we enjoy today, and each largely design and manufacture their watches in-house.
Rolex

No surprises here in kicking the list off with the Crown. Rolex was founded in 1905, and it’s not hyperbole to say that it's been one of the most influential brands on the planet over the past 60 years. Some of history's biggest figures, and most storied achievements, feature a Rolex watch in close proximity — from making the trip to the ocean’s deepest point twice (first in 1960, and again in 2012) and surviving, to creating the world’s first GMT-equipped watch at the behest of PanAm pilots in 1954, and countless expeditions and journeys in between. The real stories come from the folks that lived with them and used them through history, from NASA astronauts to Navy Frogmen, and it’s those stories that serve as the brand’s real foundation above any of the marketing fluff you come across.
Patek Philippe

Patek Philippe traces its roots to the mid-19th century, and has been run by a single family since 1936, the Sterns. In that time, the brand has become synonymous with the very best of Swiss watchmaking. This is a brand, then and now, that has placed a premium on the small details over large scale production. In the process, it has helped to define the modern dress watch genre, as well as helped to push the art of grand complications to new heights. Patek has proven to be an adept manufacturer of highly complicated watches, all in a sense of reserved pride. These are classic watches through and through, and the closer you look at them, the more impressive they become.
Omega
Omega has a long history of innovation and has been a part of some of history's biggest moments (not to mention some of the most iconic sport watch collections out there). You’re likely aware of the connection between the Speedmaster and NASA’s manned missions to the moon, but did you know that Omega has also served as the official Olympic games timekeeper since 1932? In addition to the watches and pocketwatches used for timing over the generations, it has also been at the forefront of developing new technologies that allow for a greater level of precise timekeeping for events like swimming, track and field, and even how cameras track movement at the finish line, and off a diving board.
Breguet

Originally formed a year prior to the United States becoming an independent nation, Breguet is one of the oldest continuously operating Swiss watchmakers on the planet. Clearly, they’re doing something right in L'Abbaye, where the brand is based. Though Breguet now counts itself among the Swatch Group’s portfolio, Breguet operates in a manner that keeps much of that history alive. Founded by Abraham-Louis Breguet in Paris in 1775, this is a brand that has long placed a premium on accuracy, aesthetic balance, and fine finishing details. Not only did Breguet invent the tourbillon, but many of his design decisions seen on the dial have gone on to define their own styles.
IWC

IWC was founded in 1868 by American expatriate Florentine Ariosto Jones and was primarily a maker of highly decorated pocket watches in its early days. But when Europe’s wartime aviation demands surged in the 1940s, the brand pivoted to producing rugged, stripped-down wristwatches built for the cockpit. Today, most watch enthusiasts still recognize IWC first and foremost as a defining force in the world of pilot’s watches. The Big Pilot’s watch is one of the most legendary aviation pieces in history but IWC has also expanded its repertoire to dress watches like the Portofino and sports watches like the Ingeniuer.
Cartier

It feels like the past decade has been Cartier’s moment, but in reality, the company has been a force for the better part of a century. Established in Paris in 1847 by Louis-François Cartier, it would be his three sons, Louis, Pierre, and Jacques who would take the name global, and pave the way to making it one of the most valuable luxury brands in the world today. With houses in Paris, London, and New York, the Cartier brothers would take steps in creating watches such as the Tank and the Santos that persist today as relevant as they ever were. This is a brand that brought practical flair to its designs, which have stood the test of time, and even helped prop up entirely new genres in the process.
Audemars Piguet

Audemars Piguet is yet another historic brand, having just celebrated its 150th anniversary with a year full of iconic releases. This is a brand that embraces change, all through the lens of a familiar structure of design. The Royal Oak may be one of the most consequential watches to release in the past 70 years, and it’s one that the brand has managed to foster into an expansive collection representing the full knowhow of the manufacture. AP has a knack for novel innovation thanks to its relationship with Renaud & Papi (APRP), and is not afraid to push the boundaries of limitations.
Vacheron Constantin

Vacheron Constantin has been in constant, uninterrupted operation since 1755 with century tested capabilities in exceptional high watchmaking, a dense archive, and a passionate collector base. Mainstream models like the Overseas, Patrimony, and 222 get a lot of attention but Vacheron’s watchmaking prowess cannot be understated with the Solaria Ultra Grand Complication La Première, which features an astonishing 41 complications, and an undisclosed price. If that isn’t enough, Vacheron made a pocketwatch called the Berkley Grand Complication, with 63 complications.
Grand Seiko

Grand Seiko is an outlier in this group, but no less deserving. First emerging in 1960, this is a relatively young brand, but one that has quickly risen to stardom thanks to its wholly Japanese take on the craft of watchmaking. In their first decade, Grand Seiko showed a fanatical devotion to achieving mechanical accuracy, and in an era of quartz technology dominating this scene, Grand Seiko would set accuracy records at the Observatory Chronometer Competitions in Switzerland. The company would come out of the decade with a preternatural understanding of high-accuracy timekeeping and a design concept that persists today in the 44GS.
TAG Heuer

TAG Heuer, and Heuer before the TAG Group acquisition in 1985, helped to define the sport watch genre as it exists today, particularly when it comes to chronographs and timers. The Carrera and its predecessors (such as the Sphygmometer pocket chronograph from the turn of the century) shaped how we track time in short but precise segments by defining the user experience around it. The spirit of innovation, always searching for greater levels of precision, has followed the brand into the 21st century with the likes of the Mikrogirder in 2012, which could time events down to 1/2000th of a second, well beyond a human’s ability to manage.
Jaeger-LeCoultre

Jaeger-LeCoultre is often referred to as the watchmaker’s watchmaker, which should tell you about all you need to know about why this brand is appearing on this list. JLC has produced some of the most iconic movements of all time, and isn’t too shabby at making its own watches either, with the Reverso being a household name at this point. Oh, and JLC has been doing this since 1833, when it was founded by Antoine LeCoultre in the Vallée de Joux, Switzerland. With more than 1,000 original calibers to its name, it should come as no surprise that many other brands feature the use of JLC-produced movements.
Seiko

Seiko is the Japanese brand responsible for so many of our collective obsessions with dive watches, tool watches, and all around accessible watches in general. While we generally associate vertically integrated manufacturers with high-end brands, the truth is that Seiko also falls into this category, and has managed to scale to meet large and growing global demand. Seiko helped to define the modern dive watch genre as we know it with the watches like the 62MAS and original "Willard," and this modern lineage remains intact within the Prospex collection.
Tudor

Here, Hans Wilsdorf finds his second brand on this list, with Tudor’s founding in 1926 as a sub-brand of Rolex. The idea was to create a watch that could reach a broader audience, which used the same cases and build quality as Rolex watches, but with ébauche (readily available, third party) movements. It was a success then, and remains a success now, and the brand has even managed to carve out its own niche within the sport watch category, with a visual identity all its own. Tudor also enjoys a history intertwined with military use, creating dive watches used by the French and American Naval apparatus’.
Longines

Longines is another Swiss brand with over 150 years of history to lean on, and it’s another one responsible for setting the hook when it comes to watches. Longines is excellent at capturing its history in new and interesting ways, oftentimes bringing unusual designs into new, more usable states. The brand also has a knack for mechanical innovation, and made one of history’s all-time great chronograph calibers in the 13ZN. Longines captures a charming design aesthetic in approachable ways these days, all with great reverence to its storied past.
Citizen

Another historic Japanese brand with a knack for creating funky yet distinctive divers, Citizen is a perfect example of a gateway brand. Where Seiko displays a straightforward design language, Citizen embraces a more expressive character to its collections historically. Additionally, Citizen has a history of innovation in developing highly niche tools around diving, flying, and navigating. This is a brand that was founded in 1918, and has never been afraid to push the envelope when it comes to staying at the forefront of function.
SWATCH

Swatch watches defined a generation, and if we’re being honest, kept watches on the wrists of that generation at a vital time for the industry. Swatch played an important role in keeping watches fun and engaging at a time when mechanical watches were far more niche than they are today. The watches were colorful, accessible, and just as important, collectible. These watches allowed us to express ourselves in new ways, and odds are good that if you got used to wearing one of these bad boys in your teens, you’d graduate to more serious watches later in life.
Moser

Just looking at the wrapper, H. Moser is a classic manufacture with nearly 200 years of history, but that’s not really what it is today. The modern H. Moser story began in 2002, and didn’t really get going in the way we know it today until 2012, when the Meylan family took the reins. There is far more youth at work here than you might imagine, and that is exemplified by Moser's operating style, which generally goes against the grain of the mainstream Swiss watch industry. That’s not to say that there isn’t some serious watchmaking happening here, however.
Zenith

Zenith enjoys an eventful history that dates back to 1865, and from the get-go, this was a pure watch manufacturer in every sense of the word. The brand’s founder, Georges Favre-Jacot, pushed to centralize all watchmaking processes under one roof, and by the end of that century, Zenith was exporting watches globally. it was also making a name for itself as a chronometry expert, setting records for accuracy in its hometown of Le Locle, Switzerland. All of this is prior to Zenith's most recognized era today. And, of course, the name Zenith is near synonymous with the automatic chronograph.
Bulgari

Bulgari hails from the mid-1880s, founded by a Greek silversmith with a knack for making jewelry. The brand quickly gained status as a jeweler throughout central Europe and beyond, and, by the mid-1920s, featured a full product portfolio that included watches. Bulgari operated in the Art Deco realm, and fused its jewelry know-how into its watch offerings in a manner that set the tone for a generation of high end fashion watches. In fact, the Serpenti has proven to be one of the most iconic and long-standing watch designs in modern history.
Tissot

Founded in 1853, Tissot has earned a reputation as one of the leading mass market watch brands out there. In fact, it is recognized as the maker of the first mass-produced pocket watches, as well as the first pocket watches to display two time zones, both in its first year of operation. In 1930 Tissot would go on to release the Antimagnetique, which was the first wristwatch with a magnetism-resistant movement. You’ll also recognize the famous T-Touch from 1999, which was a quartz-powered, analog-digital timekeeper that boasted dual time zones, chronograph, altimeter, barometer, thermometer, and compass functions, all controlled by tactile interactions with the haptic-display sapphire crystal and pressing the pushers on the case.
Casio

The biggest name in digital watches, Casio is the Japanese giant that launched its first watch in 1974 with the Casiotron. A few years after that in 1983, Casio introduced the G-Shock line of rugged watches that are now a staple around the world. Casio has sold millions of watches worldwide but the F-91W is now the best-selling non-smartwatch of any brand in the world, with over 120 million units sold. The practicality, reliability, and functionality of models like these as well as the Duro, Pro-Trek, and Edifice have made Casio a household name while finding themselves on the wrists of people like Bill Gates.


































