What Are the Most Important Watch Features? One Collector's Opinion

Deep down, many of us are into watches because we just love to tinker with and enjoy small mechanical objects. Sure, there’s a practical component, but it is at best a redundancy to many of the devices by which we are already enslaved. A great watch can be many things, from a stylish accessory that can bring an outfit together, to a sentimental totem that represents our lived experiences. But it can be more than that, depending on how you use it. A watch is what you make of it, if you ask me, and there are some features and complications that can elevate the experience of wearing a watch, whether practical or not. 

There is no such thing as a perfect watch, but there are elements that I pay particular attention to when assessing whether or not a watch will work for me. As these things are no longer a necessity these days, I don’t have a list of ‘must-haves’ in a watch. Rather, what I pay attention to is the execution of the elements it does decide to include. For instance, I am largely indifferent to the inclusion of a date complication from a practical point of view. Aesthetically, I’d prefer a dial without this interruption, but if it’s been handled with care and attention (as in the IWC Ingenieur below), there are instances where it can elevate a design. Conversely, if there’s enough elements of the design that are working for me, a straightforward date placement will rarely ruin the experience for me, even if I’d prefer the dial be without it.

A watch may no longer be a practical necessity, but if I can use it practically throughout the day, I most certainly will. Because of that, I do think about things like legibility, accuracy, and wearability. A watch doesn’t need all of those things to provide a memorable experience; however, you’ll likely develop a stronger bond with a watch that offers them, simply by virtue of the fact that it will be on your wrist more often than not, accumulating experiences as you go through life. You won’t get that with a watch that’s been sitting in a safe for much of its life. This is also what makes the prospect of a single-watch collection so tempting to me, but that’s something we’ve discussed elsewhere. 

There are plenty of watches that offer high legibility, plenty of accuracy, and a great fit on the wrist, so there must be something else at work here that can take a watch from simply practical to truly compelling. The rest boils down to personality. Vibes, if you will. And there is no set of rules about how that can unfold with a watch. To illustrate this, I’ll cite two of my favorite watches that couldn’t be further apart in personality, but both of which I find truly compelling.

The first is the Zenith Rainbow Flyback Chronograph from the late ‘90s. This watch has a wholly unique design that, at a glance, may feel a bit strange and dated (because it is), but in use and on the wrist becomes a truly revelatory experience. There’s a lot going on here but it manages to bring everything together way better than it has any right to, within a tidy package that fits neatly on a wrist thanks to a case the likes of which we just do not see today. It’s got personality, and the story behind its creation lends a bit of depth to its presentation. I don’t really consider myself a chronograph guy, and this is something special — right down to its 4:30 date placement (which continues to index the seconds around its frame). 

This is a watch that takes some chances, and they pay off. The design is memorable, and likely won’t be for everyone, and the truly great case pushes the situation over the top. There are elements here that, individually, I wouldn’t give a second thought to, but when brought together in this way, Zenith has created something truly special. It is more than the sum of its parts. 

Conversely, we have the Tudor Pelagos FXD. You couldn’t ask for a more straightforward, blunt object. This is a dive watch with a singular focus, yet it manages to project some personality in unexpected ways. There are no flourishes here, and it literally only tells the time. But what it does, it does exceptionally well. This might be the most legible dial I’ve come across, but it’s more than that. It’s situated in a position that feels like it’s nearly touching the underside of the crystal. It’s like an HD dial experience that’s legible from even steep angles. It’s a quality that’s difficult to discern in images, but in person it brings a special quality to the watch. 

In Marine Nationale form, the FXD uses a bezel that counts down rather than tracks elapsed time, and it turns both ways — both rather unusual features for a dive watch. But it was designed for ease of use for its intended wearers, divers in the French Navy performing a specific underwater maneuver. This isn’t overt, but it’s a watch that presents an interesting story the closer you look at the little details. On top of all this, it uses a fixed-lug case made from titanium that oozes personality. It’s a bit weird, but again, it adds to the overall story and presence of the watch. 

The Tudor and Zenith are very different watches, but each offers a unique execution that’s backed by a great story. Each has a connection to the French military apparatus, and both pass the “vibe” check as a result of their raison d'être. Neither are mass-market watches, and I think that’s an important element of what makes them so interesting. They were made with a small group of individuals in mind, rather than the largest group possible.

And that may just be the hidden key feature that I look for in a watch. Was it designed with the intention of appealing to the largest portion of the market possible, or was it designed with a singular focused vision in mind? Forget rules about date placements, dimensions, or complications. What matters in my book is a character that’s practical enough to be approachable, and unique enough to be unforgettable.