In Defense Of The Rolex Submariner Ref. 114060: Owner’s Review

The Rolex Submariner enjoys a nearly impeccable resume these days, and is largely seen as the modern dive watch archetype, having first set the template in 1954. The Submariner has seen a steady evolution during its production span, and remains essentially the same today as it was in the ‘50s and ‘60s. It’s a simple watch to understand and enjoy, and while modern Rolex aren’t quite the same function-forward tools they once were, the Submariner remains a symbol of that connection. It’s also just as capable as ever. There have been many transitional references throughout the Submariner’s life, but there is one reference in particular that has drawn the ire of the enthusiast community, and that is the reference 114060 produced between 2012 and 2020. Today, I’ll be taking a look at why that is, and offering a few words in defense of this outlier. 

The Submariner has been a ~40mm watch since the late ‘50s, and while the reference 124060 officially changed that, moving to a 41mm diameter, it was the 114060 before it that was the first to really push the envelope of that label. While the shiny new ceramic bezel got most of the attention when this generation of the Submariner was introduced, it was the new so-called "muscle case" that would raise eyebrows. Rolex doesn’t generally succumb to trends, but it’s worth noting that this period was marked by increasing case sizes, and as a result, the 114060 (and its more complicated stablemate, the 116610) would immediately be welcomed by a generation of owners and enthusiasts looking for a more modern realization of the classic dive watch. 

It’s difficult to discern, but the 114060 does indeed have a diameter of 40mm, however, there’s a lot more material around that frame than the previous reference 14060, or the subsequent 124060. On the wrist, this is a watch with a more pronounced presence relative to other generations, and as the trend around larger case sizes began to subside, the 114060 started to look a bit more out of place. The thicker lugs of this reference became a bit like the headlight design of the 996 generation of the Porsche 911. Unflattering. 

In 2020, Rolex rectified this with the release of a new generation of the Submariner, the reference 124060. The lugs returned to their trimmer proportions, and that pleasing sense of balance was restored. This move was seemingly an admission that the thicker lug case design wasn’t quite as effective as once thought, but the new reference wasn’t without its own issues. The case size grew to 41mm (in reality, a fraction of a mm), and the lug span was now 21mm. So while the visual stance of the case was indeed more elegant, the watch itself had the same sense of width on the wrist. The added material was still there, just shifted to a new location. Oh, and the watch finally received the new 32XX generation of Rolex calibers, a move that comes with its own baggage, but that is very much a story for another day. 

Neither the 114060 or 124060 will be mistaken for older references at a glance, and both are very much their own thing. Those looking for the effortless fit of the 5 digit and prior references won’t find it here. Rolex doesn’t often reference their past in such an overt manner, and the Submariner is a paragon of slow, steady progression. In hindsight, it’s my feeling that the 114060 is something of a transitional reference, and the complaints about its lugs may have been overblown in the bigger picture. Its place in history is still being written, but this is a reference that I feel deserves a second look. 

In my experience, the 114060 is looked at unfavorably when viewed through the lens of the history of the Submariner, and placed in the context of its lineage. In this respect, the 114060 is certainly an outlier. You could view it as a slightly awkward first attempt at bringing one of the most recognizable watches on the planet into the 21st century. It was likely a similar story in the early ‘80s when the Submariner transitioned to a 5 digit reference, and spent the better part of that decade finding their footing. Course corrections are inevitable. But it is precisely because of this that I believe the 114060 will, in time, be looked at as an interesting reference. It’s also not without its ardent supporters. 

If you ask me, the 114060 is best experienced outside of this historical context, where it can be judged on its own merit. In relation to many other modern dive watches available, this particular Sub has quite a bit of charm, and boasts a perfectly reasonable stat sheet. Viewed on their own, the lugs really aren’t all that bad. Sure, a third party strap doesn’t work as effortlessly as it does on the 14060, but on its bracelet, the complaints about the wide lugs are slightly exaggerated. The watch also hides its 12.5mm thickness much more effectively than something like a modern Tudor Black Bay 41. In fact, the whole footprint is noticeably smaller. 

When you start viewing the 114060 in relation to other divers like this it really begins to come into its own. Yes, it wears a bit wide, but it’s low profile and the lug to lug measurement is 48mm, and the 20mm lug span leads to squat but perfectly manageable wearing experience. That wearability factor is really the most important thing with watches like this, and here, there’s not much to complain about. Again, in relation to many other modern dive watches. In fact, in use, all of those little niggles about the case kind of melt away. The bezel and the dial are a different story, however.

In 2003, Rolex released the reference 16610LV in celebration of the Submariner’s 40th anniversary. This watch would offer a preview of a new dial design that would carry into the six digit references not far off. The new dial would refer back to the maxi dials of old, using much larger hour plots within white gold surrounds, in the process addressing one of the few issues that some had with five digit references. These larger hour markers remain in place today within the Submariner collection, and they balance out the bulkier case. This is a single feature that makes a big difference at a glance, and while I’d love to see them placed against a matte or satin dial, they retain a huge amount of legibility and character. 

The Cerachrom bezel insert represents a departure from the aluminum inserts of old, and offers the biggest visual difference at a glance. Use of this material felt quite novel in 2010, and the goal was to provide a harder material that wouldn’t age, like, ever. So instead of dents and discolorations over time, you’re now left with chips, scratches, and, well, no discoloration. That last part is a bummer, as the aged bezels of old Subs and the like are a huge part of their charm today. The idea of a look being locked in forever is somehow anathema to the very identity of a Sub. That said, I think that age will find ways to make itself known with this reference. 

In fact, it’s something I’ve already experienced with this very Sub. The platinum coated numbers making up the index within the bezel do wear, and as you can see, chips in this material can and do happen. In fact, this watch, like many others in this genre, comes to life with a bit of wear and tear on it. Once the sheen wears off, and the hairlines begin to add up on the bracelet and clasp, the personality begins to develop in earnest. That’s what makes all Subs great, and each unique. The 114060 is no different. 

There is a sentiment that exists around modern Rolex having lost the plot. That they have sacrificed simplicity for the sake of a more ‘premium appeal’. There is certainly some truth to that, and I celebrate the past generations of Rolex tool watches as much as anyone, however, I’d argue that the gulf between Rolex tool watches of the past, and Rolex tool watches of today is not as wide as it’s often made out to be. Yes, they are different, and yes, they have lost some of their quaint appeal, but in use these are watches that still tick a lot of the same boxes. In time, I believe that references like the 114060 will only gain in appeal, but history takes time to write, and the long term view of these watches are often tied to their exploits. 

Taken on its own, the Submariner 114060 is a hugely charming watch that is still subject to the same age with use that prior generations were. How it will end up showing that might be different, but it remains a compelling option over the long haul, which is exactly how you should think of these watches. My feeling is that the 114060 will take some time to be fully appreciated, as many of the best things in life do. In an era defined by vintage throwbacks and reissues, I applaud Rolex for continuing to move the ball forward with the release of this reference. It modernized, and this watch is a unique step in the overall journey of the ubiquitous diver, and whether considered in isolation or in historical context, it’s a pretty damn good watch.