Seiko Introduces A New 5 Sports SKX GMT U.S. Limited Edition HDB016

Seiko has long offered enthusiasts an affordable way into mechanical watches, and for many, that route has been through the Seiko 5 Sports. First introduced in 1968, the collection was relaunched in 2019 with models drawing on the rounded cases and bold dial designs of the brand’s much-loved SKX divers. The SKX series now sits within the broader 5 Sports lineup, with a GMT branch that debuted in July 2022. Its latest addition, the U.S. Limited Edition Ref. HDB016, introduces a deep maroon sunray dial and a black-and-red rotating bezel. The original GMT trio comprised the black SSK001, the blue SSK003—often called the “Blueberry” by enthusiasts, though with a bezel that also invites “Batman” comparisons—and the orange SSK005. Three U.S. Special Creations followed in 2023: the yellow-dial SSK017, the charcoal-gray SSK019 with its “Pepsi” red-and-blue accents, and the SSK021 with its gold-tone bezel surround and GMT hand. The collection has since expanded to include the black-and-brown “Root Beer” SSK036, among others. With all those nicknames at play, this new maroon Seiko seems ready to bring a little “Dr Pepper” to the mix.

The Case And Bezel

In keeping with its predecessors, the HDB016 measures 42.5mm in diameter. The rest of the on-paper specs follow suit, with the total lug-to-lug at 46mm, the case height at 13.6mm, and a lug width of 22mm. Other design details stay the course with what we'd expect from the SKX GMT family, including the distinct 4 o’clock crown placement and sturdy, rotating bezel. 

That dual-tone bezel pairs red and dark brown (which, in certain lighting, almost looks black) around the deep maroon dial, and the soft-drink comparison writes itself, adding something different to a lineup already well stocked with split-color bezels. The bezel rotates in both directions, with a 24-hour scale divided into contrasting halves to distinguish day and night hours. The watch offers 100 meters of water resistance and a screw-down exhibition caseback. It comes on a stainless steel bracelet with a tri-fold clasp, push-button release, and security lock.

A Maroon Sunray Dial

Beyond the bezel, the deep maroon dial is the main attraction. The color recalls the side of a Dr Pepper can, while a sunray finish should bring out lighter and darker shades as the Seiko catches the light. A prominent 24-hour hand indicates the second time zone, done in a golden shade that matches the bottom of the sloped outer chapter ring dedicated to the 24-hour scale, which adds both visual interest and helps make actually using the GMT functionality just a touch easier.

The large and legible handset and pips and geometric applied indices have, of course, gotten a LumiBrite touch for any low-light reading needs. A date calendar completes the display. The basic functions carry over from the other GMT models, leaving the new palette to do most of the talking.

Automatic Caliber 4R34

Inside is Seiko’s automatic Caliber 4R34, visible through the exhibition caseback. The 24-jewel movement runs at 21,600 vibrations per hour, or 3 Hz, and offers approximately 41 hours of power reserve, along with manual winding and stop-seconds.

Its independently adjustable 24-hour hand lets the wearer set a second time zone without changing the main time display. Often described as a “caller” GMT, this arrangement is useful for keeping track of the time elsewhere while leaving the main hands on local time. The 4R34 has powered the collection since its 2022 debut and remains a sensible fit.

Final Thoughts And Pricing 

Watch nicknames finding their source of inspiration in the names of popular soft drinks is a tale as old as time, and we think we're going to stick with Dr Pepper for this Seiko. Of course, if you want to one-up us with any nickname alternatives, feel free to drop them in the comments. Available now, the Seiko 5 Sports SKX GMT U.S. Limited Edition HDB016 is priced at $525. 

For more information, visit the brand's website here.