The Most Expensive Seiko Watches, Vintage And Modern

Seiko watches are known and highly regarded for many reasons, chief among them being their relative value proposition. This is a historic brand with a rich heritage full of iconic references, and one of very few brands operating today that can claim to have fully vertically integrated manufacturing capabilities. It’s a brand that represents many watch enthusiasts' entry to the hobby, and sometimes their exit point from it. Whatever your relationship with Seiko, there are sure to be a few surprises in its catalog, both old and new, that will come with some sticker shock (hey, this is an article about the most expensive Seiko watches after all).

Yes, there is such a thing as an expensive Seiko, and while that might not mean grand complications and one-off commissions, the brand is no stranger to dialing up the premium details, from precious metals to highly precise and accurate movements. As usual, Seiko carves its own path even on the high end. There is, however, a ceiling. 

Here are some highlights of the most expensive Seiko references through recent decades, and just how much money they would cost in today’s dollars. 

62MAS/Ref. 6217 (1965)

The original Seiko diver was released in 1965, and its design would go on to set the template for a generation to come. The 62MAS (reference 6217) lineage lives on today within the Prospex collection, though it was literally reissued in 2023 as the Reference SJE093 ($3,500). The original retail price of the 6217 was about $50 in 1965, which translates to a hair over $500 in today’s coin, which feels like a relative value. However, well-preserved original examples of the 62MAS will cost between $3,000 and $6,000. 

3823 Quartz V.F.A. (1971)

Photo: Watch Charts

In 1971, Seiko released its first thermocompensated quartz watch in the Reference 3823, and even brought over the V.F.A. (Very Fine Adjusted) label from Grand Seiko to use on the dial. The watch was a watershed moment for accuracy, and would help to define Seiko's own standards separately from those of the Swiss. The 38SQW caliber would debut within a distinctive collection that even included gold references, and pricing was higher than anything else available from the brand, at up to ¥141,000 (~$900), which would be about $7,200 in today’s currency. 

3883 “Morpho” (1974)

Photo: Chrono 24

Continuing in the never ending pursuit of a more precise and accurate quartz watch, in 1974 Seiko released the Reference 3883, again with the SQW caliber that was now advertised to be within an astonishing +/-5 second per month. Once again, this would come at a cost, priced at ¥235,000 ($1,470) in 1974, which translates to just under $10,000 today. At the time, this was pretty cutting-edge technology, and as it developed (and scaled) prices would come down to earth.

9983-7000 (1978)

Photo: Watch Charts

One of the more spectacular examples of Seiko’s attention to detail comes in the Reference 9983-7000 from 1978. This was a further evolution of Seiko’s quartz supremacy, using a Twin Quartz movement accurate to within 5 seconds per year. This watch featured a beautifully designed angular case and bracelet, with a dial that used applied indexes even down to the second. The ‘Superior’ label on the dial said it all with this one. The price on release was  ¥235,000 (~$1,500), which is about $7,500 today.

H558-5000 “Arnie” (1982)

By the 1980s, quartz movements were a well represented portion of the market (for better or worse), and Seiko had expanded their use within a broad range of its catalog. This meant far more reasonable prices for even highly accurate quartz movements in dive watches, and the king of 1980s Seiko dive range was undoubtedly the reference H558-5000, aka the "Arnie" so named for its appearances on the wrist of Arnold Schwarzenegger in quintessential '80s flicks such as Commando, Predator, and Twins. This watch was unique for its ani-digit layout and tuna-can-style case shroud. It was priced at ¥45,000 (~$300) on release, which is about $1,000 today.

7A28-7000 “Ripley” (1983)

Photo: Fellows Auctions

Not to be outdone by the Arnie, a different kind of watch made its debut in 1983: the 7A28-7000, which would earn the nickname “Ripley” for its appearance on the wrist of Sigourney Weaver in Ridley Scott’s Alien. The radical design came from Italian Giorgetto Giugiaro (who also designed the DeLorean DMC-12). The watch was priced around ¥50,000 ($350) on release, which is about $1,400 these days. This one is a part of history, and original examples are priced in the $2,500 neighborhood today. 

Sportura SLQ023 (2007)

Jumping ahead to 2007, Seiko released a collection of watches to highlight its relationship with Honda, and at the pinnacle was the limited-edition Sportura reference SLQ023. The Sportura is among the most unique modern Seiko designs, featuring a series of porthole apertures to display the complications. It was also unique inside, using a kinetic chronograph movement called the 9T82. The movement made its debut in the late 1990s, and could be considered experimental in nature. It uses a rotor to generate electricity to power the Lithium-Titanium capacitive power cell — a technical marvel to be sure, and not inexpensive. This limited edition represents one of the harder-to-find examples, which can be found (rarely) these days for around $7,000.  

Prospex SNR058 

Seiko is a different entity from the likes of Grand Seiko, but that doesn’t mean some of the movements don’t get shared. In the current Seiko catalog, the Prospex Reference SNR058 tips the scales at $6,600 for its use of the Spring Drive GMT caliber 5R66, and full super-hard coated titanium case and bracelet. The movement is rated to within +/-1 second per day of accuracy, and represents the best of both mechanical and quartz technology. This specific reference is a U.S. special edition featuring black and gold details in the dial and bezel. 

Prospex SLA081

Staying in the Prospex collection, the SLA081 represents the top of the pure dive watch range with the Marinemaster label. This watch also uses Seiko’s super-hard-coated titanium for the case and bracelet, and employs the brand’s 8L45 caliber (base Grand Seiko 9S65) which also appears in the new King Seiko Vanac collection (more on that later). The Marinemaster carries a lot of weight in the modern dive watch lineage of Seiko, and the SLA081 carries the torch at the top of the line. This watch is priced at $4,600.

Astron SSH180

Moving to the Astron collection (which has roots in that Sportura mentioned above), the Reference SSH180 brings many of Seiko’s modern tech complications to life in a vibrant design not short of features. The SSH180 uses the 5X83 movement, with everything from a perpetual calendar to satellite signal reception, to keep everything on track within 15 seconds per month. This specific reference is a limited edition priced at $3,300, and uses a mix of materials both in the case and dial. 

King Seiko SLA089

Finally, the newest collection from Seiko that brings back the historic King Seiko Vanac name and design. Seiko went premium with this collection, also employing the 8L45 caliber within an intricate faceted case design that recalls the original from 1972. The Vanac feels like a premium watch from top to bottom, with fine details to be found at nearly every angle. Seiko has released the design in both steel and titanium configurations, and is priced from $3,850. You can learn more at seikowatches.com and seikoluxe.com