Unimatic Watches: The Ultimate Guide to the Italian Microbrand

Like so many of the modern breed of start-up, independent watchmaking companies, Unimatic traces its origin to a pair of friends with a shared passion for timepieces and an entrepreneurial spirit. Giovanni Moro and Simone Nunziato met as industrial design students at Politecnico di Milano, Italy’s largest technical university. Moro’s father had been a watch collector, and after designing his first watch as a lark while working at a furniture company, Moro connected with Nunziato to collaborate on the watch that became the Modello Uno U1-A, which launched in 2015 and essentially became the foundation of the Unimatic brand, its name a portmanteau of the Latin “unico” for unique, and “matic,” for willing or able.

The Unimatic U1-A from 2015

The U1-A, which quickly sold out, was a classical dive watch with a 40mm round case, a flat, black dial; simple shaped indexes; a black bezel insert with a 60-minute scale and a lumed dot; and a Seiko movement. Its follow-up, the U1-B, was even more streamlined, dropping the minute scale from the bezel. Both the original models set the parameters for every one that followed: each Unimatic watch is pressure-tested to 300 meters of water resistance and designed and cased in Italy; each watch is individually numbered, and the design ethos driving them all is a function-forward, tool-oriented aesthetic. Today, Unimatic watches comprise dozens of models and include not only the divers that brought the brand to the table but also field-watch and chronograph styles. A rising star in the oft-crowded microbrand arena, Unimatic has also forged several high-profile partnerships to produce some memorable and coveted co-branded pieces. Here is a look at the Unimatic collection of 2024 and some of its most noteworthy collaborative limited editions. 

Classic

Unimatic’s Classic Editions all feature a similarly minimalist aesthetic and a reliably robust build; all the Classic watches share an array of archetypal elements such as matte-black dials, bold geometrical hour markers with luminous coating, 316L stainless steel cases with brushed finishing, and a sturdy 300 meter water resistance. From there, the differences among the quartet of Classic models are subtle but significant. 

U1 Classic (UC1)

Price: $575, Case Size: 41.5mm, Case Height: 13.6mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Lug to Lug: 49mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Automatic Seiko NH35A

The UT1 is positioned as the family’s basic dive watch, distinguished by a unidirectional rotating bezel with fluted edges and a black aluminum insert with a luminous dot at 12 o’clock. There is no dive scale or other markings on the bezel itself, as Unimatic has chosen to apply the minute track to the outer edge of the matte black dial. The dial’s “phantom ladder”-style hour and minute hands indicate the time while a “reverse lollipop” hand (i.e., the circle is on the counterweight rather than the tip) keeps track of the running seconds. Behind a screwed-down solid caseback is the movement, the automatic Caliber NH35, sourced from Japan’s Seiko.

U2 Classic (UC2)

Price: $465, Case Size: 38.5mm, Case Height: 12.7mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Lug to Lug: 47.5mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Automatic Seiko NH35A

Unimatic also refers to the UC2 as a “Made in Italy dive watch,” and it is in fact quite similar to the UC1 (right down to the Seiko automatic movement), except in two substantial areas: the brushed steel case is smaller than that of the UC1 (38mm in diameter and 12.7mm thick, as opposed to the 41.5mm and 13.6mm measurements of the latter) and it lacks the utilitarian feature of a rotating diver’s bezel, opting instead for a standard stationary bezel around the double-domed, 2.7mm-thick sapphire crystal over the dial.

U3 Classic (UC3)

Price: $575, Case Size: 41.5mm, Case Height: 13.7mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Lug to Lug: 51mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Meca-Quartz VK64

For its diver’s chronograph model, the UC3, Unimatic turned to the “Meca-Quartz” Caliber VK64, also made in Japan by Seiko, whose hybrid mechanism combines quartz technology for the main timekeeping features and a mechanical module for the chronograph function. Accordingly, the matte black dial adds two parallel subdials at 3 and 9 o’clock (for elapsed minutes and running seconds, respectively) to the typical dive-watch details of the UC1 and UC2. At 41.5mm, the chronograph matches the dimensions of the UC1 and also includes that model’s rotating bezel with black aluminum insert and raised luminous dot.

U4 Classic (UC4)

Price: $490, Case Size: 40mm, Case Height: 13.9mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Lug to Lug: 49mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Automatic Seiko NH35A

At first glance, the UC4 might appear to be a slightly larger (40mm) version of the UC2; the dial and its details are identical, there are no pushers or subdials as on the UC3, and the bezel is plain metal with no black diving insert. However, unlike the UC2 (and like the UC1), the screw-down crown is protected by crown guards. Also, the bezel is flat and broad rather than narrow and sloped. The self-winding Seiko NH35A beats behind the caseback to round out the quartet of Classics.

Toolwatch

While the Classic models were already unmistakable as tool watches — or at the very least, tool-watch-inspired — the Italian microbrand upped the ante on both toughness and functionality with the simply named Toolwatch collection in 2024. Made up of four similar-but-subtly-separate timepieces like the Classic line, the Unimatic Toolwatches share the distinction of all being tested to the MIL-STD-810H standard, used by the United States Department of Defense, for military-grade ruggedness and reliability in extreme conditions. Also boosting the watches’ resilience is the in-house-developed “360º protection system,” made of thermoplastic polyurethane material, which cushions the movement between the dial and the screw-down caseback. Presented in 300-meter water-resistant 316L stainless steel cases, and equipped across the board with quartz movements, they also ushered the first bezel scale, and the first dual-time function, into the Unimatic portfolio.

UT1

Price: $465, Case Size: 41.5mm, Case Height: 13.2mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Lug to Lug: 49mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Quartz Seiko VH31

“Modello Uno,” or UT1, features a matte-black dial similar to those of the Classic editions, with the “phantom ladder” hands and “reverse-lollipop” seconds counter, but distinctive for its use of white-printed Arabic numerals — in a typography specially developed by Unimatic  for optimum legibility — rather than geometric indexes at the hour positions. Also helping the UT1 stand apart is its matte black bezel, with an unconventional and utilitarian military-inspired detail, a 60-to-0 countdown scale rather than the more conventional 60-minute scale that counts up clockwise. Another Seiko movement, the quartz VH31, ticks inside the case, behind a screwed back with a special “X-Ray”-motif engraving.

UT1-GMT

Price: $575, Case Size: 41.5mm, Case Height: 13.2mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Lug to Lug: 49mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Quartz Ronda 515.24D

The GMT version of the UT1 could scarcely be more discreet in displaying its signature complication — the indication of the time in 24-hour format, via a white numeral on a black field, in a window tucked directly under the 12 o’clock position, above an arrow pointer in contrasting orange. It’s not a GMT function — the 24-hour disk cannot be adjusted but instead always displays the 24-hour equivalent of the time displayed on the 12-hour dial — but like the countdown bezel, it is indisputably military in origin and, arguably, useful in a mission-oriented situation. Powering the watch is a Swiss-made Ronda 515.24D quartz caliber. If you’re interested in more detail from a hand-on perspective, check out this review.

UT4

Price: $385, Case Size: 40mm, Case Height: 12mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Lug to Lug: 49mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Quartz Seiko VH31

The most minimalist of the new Toolwatch range, the Modello Quatro UT4 lacks both the countdown bezel and the 24-hour dual-time indication of the UT1 models. Instead it offers a wide, satin-brushed stationary bezel and the standard three-handed dial with orange detailing. It’s also a smidgen smaller than the UT1, at 40mm in diameter and 12mm thick, though it contains the same Seiko quartz movement, Caliber VH31.

UT4-GMT

Price: $500, Case Size: 40mm, Case Height: 12mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Lug to Lug: 49mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Quartz Ronda 515.24D

Checking the final box for the Toolwatch collection is this model that eschews the countdown bezel but includes the 12 o’clock 24-hour time window. Its dimensions match those of the non-”GMT” version above (40mm around, 12mm thick, 49mm lug to lug) and it carries the same Ronda movement as the UT1-GMT. The case’s sandblasted finish places the model firmly in “tool” territory, along with its sturdy but comfy black nylon strap.  

Limited Editions - Highlights

U5S-MP (Mr. Porter - 50 pieces)

Price: $925, Case Size: 36mm, Case Height: 11.05mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Lug to Lug: 43.7mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Automatic Sellita SW200-1

Unimatic has developed several special editions in cooperation with online menswear retailer Mr. Porter, the most fetching of which just might be this 36mm model in sage green that takes its aesthetic cues, so says Unimatic, “from the simplicity and elegance of summer.” The steel case is among the smallest in Unimatic’s lineup, and accordingly thin at just over 11mm in profile. Highlighting the green dial are openworked markers and hands in glossy black. Inside the case is a Swiss-made automatic movement, the same Sellita SW-200 that animates many other watches at higher price points than this 50-piece limited edition. 

U2-MMC (Morgan Motor Company - 80 pieces)

Price: $875, Case Size: 38mm, Case Height: 12.7mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Lug to Lug: 47.5mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Automatic Seiko NH35A

Sized at a unisex-oriented 38mm in brushed 316L stainless steel, this 80-piece limited edition springs from Unimatic’s collaboration with an iconic British auto manufacturer, the Morgan Motor Company. Its glossy “soleil” blue dial with light gray details evokes the sleek paint jobs of Morgan cars, while its pebbled “biscuit” leather strap calls to mind the automobiles’ luxurious upholstered interiors. The caseback features a Morgan badge and the engraved motto “Seek the Road Less Traveled.” Behind that ornamental caseback ticks a Japan-sourced automatic movement, Seiko’s NH35A.

U5S-ML (Massena Lab - 300 pieces)

Price: $995, Case Size: 36mm, Case Height: 11.05mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Lug to Lug: 43.7mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Automatic Sellita SW200-1

Conceived in a partnership with Massena LAB, the timepiece design studio founded by industry expert and watch collector William Massena, this 300-piece limited edition was the first Unimatic watch to be issued in a 36mm case. The case is in brushed steel and notable for its large crown and curved lugs for ideal wrist comfort; its wide dial is simplicity itself, with the phantom-ladder handset and lollipop seconds, and distinguished by a delicate white-printed minute track with elongated hour markers. The date window at 6 o’clock blends perfectly into the minimalist color scheme with its white numeral. A Swiss-made Sellita SW200-1 inside provides the timekeeping, with a 38-hour power reserve.

U1-PA (Italian Army Paratroopers - 300 pieces)

Price: $720, Case Size: 40mm, Case Height: 13.6mm, Lug Width: 22mm, Lug to Lug: 49mm, Crystal: Sapphire, Water Resistance: 300 meters, Movement: Automatic Seiko NH35A

Paying tribute to the Paracadusti, the army infantry corps paratroopers of Unimatic’s native Italy, is this 300-piece edition in the brand’s 40mm U1 case and housing an automatic Seiko caliber. Distinguishing the dial is the badge of the paratroopers, a stylized parachute with wings and a five-pointed star in the center. Also making its debut on this model is Unimatic’s first compass bezel, with an aluminum insert and bidirectional motion for use in orienteering, along with a woven jacquard strap in a military-inspired camouflage pattern.