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Radical from its release in 1976, during a watch era marked by the Quartz Crisis, the lasting impact of Patek Philippe’s Genta-designed Nautilus cannot be understated. With its large, porthole-shaped case, sporty, integrated-bracelet design, and luxurious price tag, it was a watch that was an anomaly in its era, both in the industry at large and for Patek Philippe’s typically traditional aesthetic leanings – so much so that you can neatly divide the horological Holy Trinity member’s history into Before Nautilus and After Nautilus. Still today, the Nautilus is an icon among icons, an immediate status symbol for those with deep enough pockets to have one among their collection.
If you, like me, have pockets with a more modest depth and are financially responsible enough not to bring ruin on your family by getting a Nautilus above your means, I do have good news. There are plenty of pieces that channel similar design cues and codes found in the DNA of the Nautilus, available at much more attainable prices. To prove my point, I’ve rounded up several compelling Patek Philippe Nautilus alternatives below for your reading pleasure. Given that the most entry-level Nautilus price tag is around the $30,000 mark for the most basic models, I do have a lot of wiggle room in terms of price. To make things easier, I’ve arranged everything in ascending price order, ending with the most extravagantly priced watches that fit the bill.
[toc-section heading="Brew Metric"]
Case: 36mm, Material: Steel, Water Resistance: 50 meters, Movement: Hybrid VK68 Meca-Quartz Chronograph, Price: $475
Though attainable options within the broader integrated-bracelet category have been expanded in recent years (post the Tissot PRX), it does still remain a challenge to find options that I could in good conscience dub “affordable” that scratch the “porthole” case shape itch that defines the Nautilus. That being said, the microbrands in the industry are killing it these days, and Brew’s quintessential Metric line ticks the soft, square-case- shape and integrated-bracelet boxes with ease, all for under the $500 mark.
A by-enthusiast-for-enthusiasts brand, the Brew Metric has become a success story in the microbrand space with its bold, '70s-inspired design and novel chronograph with markings that help its wearer time the perfect espresso shot. The “Retro Dial” model continues to be among the line's most popular, but for the purposes of this roundup, I also think that the relatively new Metric Lite deserves a look, especially for my women readers out there. It’s a much more no-nonsense and compact take on the collection, with its 30mm proportionality and time-only functionality,
[toc-section heading="Bulova Super Seville"]
Case: 38mm, Material: Steel, Water Resistance: Splash Resistant, Movement: Precisionist Quartz, Price: $695
I’ve said it before, and I’ll say it again: the Super Seville is one of the best-looking watches in Bulova’s contemporary catalog. As an affordable Nautilus alternative, the Super Seville’s TV-shaped dial and integrated bracelet combo really hits the mark, especially for the sub-$800 price point. The Super Seville leans more heavily into the funkiness of '70s-era design, but I think its own unique design idiosyncrasies, like the fluted bezel, also set it apart from the Nautilus, to not make it feel like a dupe, and to give it its own charm.
In terms of wrist presence, the Super Seville’s 38mm diameter is actually quite close to the original Nautilus dimensions, without the lateral “porthole” hinges, of course. Given that we’re under the $700 mark, the Super Seville is quartz powered, but in this case, it’s Bulova Precisionist Quartz, which runs on 8 jewels and a 262kHz frequency.
[toc-section heading="MAEN Manhattan"]
Case: 37mm and 40mm Material: Steel Water Resistance: 100 meters Movement: La Joux Perrex G100 Automatic Price: $924 (37mm); $972 (40mm)
And we’ve finally entered automatic mechanical movement territory with Maen’s Manhattan. Available now in both 40mm and 37mm sizing, this piece from the rising independent brand captures the unconventional case design and integrated bracelet style that I was searching for most to hold its own in this Nautilus Alternatives roundup. The dial even has some stripes going on, much like the Nautilus, though the Manhattan opts for vertical Côtes de Genève lines, rather than the embossed horizontal line texturing that’s a hallmark of the Nautilus.
We’ve got no date window or any extraneous details to mess up the overall harmonious simplicity of the dial design, which is available in both midnight blue and marsh green for the newer 40mm size, though there are some other, funkier options in the 37mm size. For the classic 37mm Manhattan, we're working with the Sellita SW200-1 automatic caliber in the movement department. The 40mm Manhattan is powered by the La Joux- Perrex G100 Automatic movement, with a slim profile of just 9.6mm. If that isn’t thin enough for you, there is also the Ultra Thin 39mm take on the line, which is powered by the hand-wound 7001 ETA movement, and has a slightly higher price tag.
[toc-section heading="Mido Multifort TV Big Date"]
Case: 40mm x 39.2mm, Material: Steel, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Mido Caliber 80, Price: $1,440
From its square TV-style case and dial to the linear horizontal texture and the oversized crown guard, I think the connection to the Nautilus here is quite obvious. I might even go out on a limb and say this watch is the best Nautilus alternative for the price. Either way, the Multifort TV Big Date packs in a ton of bang for your buck, along with its own funky personality to boot. Instead of being a design afterthought, the date window of its namesake is large and in charge, right at 12, adding a dash of mid-century-inspired fun with its distinct typography.
In addition to its quirky charm, this watch is also quite utilitarian, with its 100 meters of water resistance and easily legible dial with luminous pips marking the hours. Measuring 40mm wide by 39.2mm long, this watch utilizes the Mido Caliber 80 with a power reserve of (you guessed it) 80 hours, and is equipped with a Nivachron balance spring to boost its antimagnetic resistance. If you want something in the same stylistic realm but with even more funk, I’ll refer you now to the S01E02 edition with a textural dial that mimics the “pixel noise” of vintage TV sets.
[toc-section heading="Alpina Alpiner Extreme"]
Case: 41mm, Material: Steel, Water Resistance: 200 meters, Movement: AL-525 Automatic, Price: $2,225
Made, as its name suggests, to face the most extreme of conditions, the Alpina Alpiner Extreme is defined by its cushion-shaped case, round bezel with exposed screws, richly textured dial, and streamlined functionality. Its dynamic case architecture and integrated- bracelet style definitely channel the key Nautilus ingredients for me, while its sub-$2,500 price point keeps us well within the entry-level-luxury category. Featuring a robust level of water resistance at 200 meters, the oversized crown at 3 o’clock also features a strip of knobby, textured rubber to make operating the watch easy, even if you’ve got gloves and a wetsuit on. This watch is powered by the AL-525 automatic movement, but if that price point is still a bit high for you, there are quartz options available at a more attainable price point without sacrificing style or utility.
[toc-section heading="Rado Anatom Automatic"]
Case: 32.5 Material: Steel and Plasma High-Tech Ceramic Water Resistance: Movement: R766 Price: $5,150
Admittedly, I think the True Square from Rado might potentially be a better stylistic match as a Nautilus alternative. But, personally, I find the brand’s Anatom Automatic collection a bit more aligned with my own tastes. The two key Nautilus ingredients I was looking for when making this list were the integrated bracelet and preferably square-ish case design (though I will later settle for simply unconventional), both of which requirements the Anatom Automatic happens to meet.
Material experimentation is the foundation of Rado’s contemporary identity, and this watch utilizes a combination of steel and the brand’s proprietary high-tech ceramic. The Anatom has a slight optical illusion about it: while it looks like a typical square when viewed head-on, the case and crystal have a slight, beveled curve that sits more flush and ergonomically on the wrist. This is also the smallest watch on this list with its 32.5mm diameter, and is powered by the R766 automatic caliber (which has been tested in five positions) with a Nivachron balance spring.
[toc-section heading="Bvlgari Octo Roma"]
Case: 41mm, Material: Steel, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: BVL-191 automatic, Price: $7,350
While the Octo Finissimo is probably the more obvious option from Bvlgari for this roundup, I wanted to save the double-digit price tags for a little later in this list. Instead, I’m going with the more entry-level (for Bvlgari) Octo Roma, which still has a lot of interesting case architecture for a significantly less upfront cost than its more extravagant Octo older sibling.
Measuring 41mm in diameter, the Octo Roma is defined by its fittingly octagonal case, integrated bracelet (of course), and its minimal and sophisticated design codes. The way the elongated, wide-set, faceted lugs connect with the bracelet does scratch that soft, “porthole” square itch that I was looking for to connect this piece back to the Nautilus. The dial is a simple combination of baton indices with Arabic numerals marking 12 and 6 o’clock, along with a date window at 3 o'clock, all of which are set against the Clous de Paris textured dial. The quick-change system on the caseback makes switching out for a strap quick and pain-free, and, with its 100 meter water-resistance, you might want to change to a rubber strap for more practical, nautical reasons. It's powered by the manufacture BVL-191 automatic caliber with a power reserve of 42 hours.
[toc-section heading="IWC Ingenieur"]
Case: 40mm Material: Water Resistance: Movement: Price: $12,900
This list wouldn’t be complete without another iconic Genta design in the mix. Instead of the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak, I’m going with the IWC Ingenieur, which made its debut the same year (1976, for the record), as the Nautilus.
In its modern expression, IWC’s Ingenieur remains faithful to Genta’s established design, which is, for the brand, a no-brainer. Recently, the Ingenieur collection has expanded to offer material options beyond the utilitarian steel of the original 1976 model, including titanium and luxurious solid gold models. That being said, the recently revamped Ingenieur collection returned to its roots dial-side, bringing back the checkerboard guilloché dial texture in several colorways, including the lime green take seen on Brad Pitt during the “Formula 1” movie promo. The Ingenieur has also notably been teenified, and is now available in 35mm sizing (an answer to my prayers). In the case of the 40mm Ingenieur, we’re working with the manufacture Caliber 32111 automatic movement, which has a 4 Hz frequency and 120-hour power reserve.
[toc-section heading="Glashütte Original Seventies Chronograph"]
Case: 40mm, Material: Steel, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: 37-02, Price: $16,600
Another watch that falls into the retro, TV-shaped case/dial category, Glashütte Original’s Seventies Chronograph is, in my opinion, one of the most compelling designs in the brand’s current repertoire. Packing in a ton of personality while remaining streamlined and legible, this watch does have a lot more going on than the standard, time-and-date Nautilus model I was using as my main reference point for this list. That being said, though the Seventies Chronograph positioned its counters horizontally (whereas the bicompax Nautilus Chronographs typically opt for the vertical axis), both watches (limited editions excluded) tend to forgo any dramatic coloring on the chronograph subdials, making them feel more harmonious with the dial. All this to say is I feel both watches to be spiritually and stylistically aligned.
Measuring 40mm in diameter, the Seventies Chronograph throws a panorama date into the mix above 6 o’clock, along with the curved power-reserve indicator just under 12. The three-link bracelet flows naturally from the case, tapering quite dramatically for added comfort. In the movement department, we’re working with the in-house manufacture 37-02 automatic caliber, which features flyback chronograph functionality and has a 70-hour power reserve.
[toc-section heading="Chopard Alpine Eagle"]
Case: 41mm, Material: Steel, Water Resistance: 100 meters, Movement: Chopard 01.01-C Automatic, Price: $17,000
For my next pick, I'm rocking with one of my favorite integrated-bracelet watches of all time: the Chopard Alpine Eagle. Aesthetically, this watch is a bit more aligned with the Ingenieur, but hey, this is my article, and I can do what I want. As a tiny-watch lover, the 33mm take on the Alpine Eagle is my obvious favorite. But in the case at hand, I’m going with the more classic 41mm size in steel.
Aside from the sporty integrated-bracelet goodness, the lateral integrated crown guards on either side of the case also connect the Alpine Eagle to the Nautilus in my mind. There’s also the smooth, brushed bezel to consider, which features the exposed screws that Genta often used (like in the case of the Royal Oak and, again, the Ingenieur). One of the Alpine Eagle’s most charming qualities is its richly textured dial, which has undergone a galvanic treatment and is inspired by, as the brand details it, an “eagle’s iris,” and features Roman numerals at 12, 3, 6, and 9 o'clock. The automatic Chopard Caliber 09.01-C within is comprised of 159 components, is officially Chronometer-Certified, and has a 42-hour power reserve.
[toc-section heading="H. Moser & Cie. Streamliner Central Seconds"]
Case: 40mm Material: Steel Water Resistance: 120 meters Movement: CHMC 201 Automatic Price: $27,452 USD (21,900 CHF)
Coming from the uninhibited rebel of the Swiss watch industry, the H. Moser & Cie Streamliner is the brand’s staple integrated sports watch, and among the quirkiest in the category. Moser’s unconventional take on minimalism is on full display across this collection, starting with the curvature of the organic case shape that flows right into the single-link bracelet. There’s no typography or branding to speak of (another hallmark of Moser), making it one of the most “if you know, you know” kind of watches out there.
The larger Streamliner collection is often used as a vehicle for the brand’s mechanical experimentation, with the Central Seconds being the entry point of the line. This watch’s 40mm diameter aligns it with the most typical Nautilus sizing, and as a sports watch, the Streamliner is water resistant up to 120 meters. Under the hood, we’ve got the manufacture Caliber HMC 201 automatic movement, which you’re free to gaze at in all its mechanical glory through the exhibition caseback.
[toc-section heading="Parmigiani Flourier Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante"]
Case: 40mm, Material: Steel and Platinum, Water Resistance: 60 meters, Movement: PF501 automatic, Price: $34,600
Because a Nautilus, even on the secondary market, is rarely just $30,000, I’m going to stretch my imagined budgetary parameters with this last pick. Parmigiani Fleurier’s entire Tonda collection is defined by its subtle sophistication, and that’s perhaps most effectively demonstrated with this GMT take on the line. I mean, I would go so far as to say the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante is one of the most subtle and elegant takes on the complication available on the market today.
Of course, we’ve got the integrated-bracelet watch box effectively ticked. But what really makes this piece special is its novel Rattrapante GMT complication, which accounts for a second time zone with a combination of two dedicated hour hands. The rose gold hand can either remain hidden (if you only need your home time), or be revealed with the push of a button to keep track of home time while the silver-toned hour hand is adjusted to an alternate time zone via the pusher on the left-hand side of the case. When you’re safely back at home, the rose-gold pusher on the crown jumps the silver hand back to meet the rose-gold one back at your local time. There’s something poetic about the simplicity of it to me. This is all made possible thanks to the PF501 automatic caliber within, which has a power reserve of 42 hours.
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