Kurono Tokyo Review: A Japanese Master Watchmaker's Accessible Indie

Hajime Asaoka is widely considered one of the most accomplished independent watchmakers of his generation, with his Japan-made creations commanding significant prices and remaining accessible to only a handful of collectors. For everyone else, Kurono Tokyo exists as his more attainable offshoot - a brand created to bring Asaoka’s design language to a broader audience. The result is one of the most in-demand Japanese watch brands today, with its Art Deco-inspired, limited-run models routinely selling out in minutes. How, then, did Kurono Tokyo make the leap from Asaoka’s bespoke work to thoughtfully priced watches that are now widely regarded as one of the most credible ways into independent watchmaking? Let’s take a look.

[toc-section heading="The Appeal of Kurono Tokyo"]

Even without in-house movements, Kurono Tokyo more than holds its own by pouring its energy into the elements you actually interact with every day. Design is where the brand truly flexes, and Hajime Asaoka’s industrial design background helps exponentially. Every dial is treated as a canvas, whether finished in deep lacquer, fine brushing, or subtle radial textures that come alive as the light moves. Colors like Midnight Blue, Eggplant, and Copper are carefully tuned shades with real depth and nuance. Add to that thoughtfully chosen typography and hand designs rooted in Showa-era aesthetics, and the result is a level of visual refinement that easily compensates for the lack of in-house mechanics.

Kurono Tokyo watches certainly have that feel of considered, cohesive, and distinctly Japanese design. Naturally, the brand’s decision to rely on Japanese movements is a considered one, allowing it to maintain accessible pricing while still offering movements with a strong reputation for reliability and consistency. Indeed, there are no in-house mechanics at play here. For that level of technical experimentation, you’d need to look to Hajime Asaoka’s own ultra-exclusive creations, shaped by years of study, hands-on learning, and his close involvement with the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI), which sits at the core of his craft.

[toc-section heading="Hajime Asaoka and Collection History"]

A Hajime Asaoka tourbillon that was auctioned for over $360,000 (Image by Phillips)

In 2019, Hajime Asaoka made a deliberate pivot: distilling the ethos of his hand-crafted, five-figure watches into something more attainable. By simplifying case construction, refining rather than reinventing his dial language, and relying on outsourced movements, he created a pathway for more collectors to engage with his design philosophy.

His first releases were two watches that sold out on the same day that they launched. The first of the two was a 37mm time-only Miyota-powered variant named the Kurono Bunkyō Tokyo, which was first released in Eggshell white, Midnight Blue, and Mystic Grey, each limited to 50 pieces. The “Reiwa” watch followed - a similar iteration of the same model but with a black inner dial and surrounding minute tracks in copper or silver. A first-anniversary edition, the Mori, was then released, returning to the model’s monochromatic hues but this time in sunburst green.

The second release was a chronograph, complete with a vertical clutch column wheel. The model was produced at low cost and powered by a Seiko movement. The column wheel mechanism afforded butter-smooth actuation of the chronograph functions without any drag or stutter, while the dial was a mixture of pinstripe decoration and polished steel studs in colour scheme of  “panda” or “reverse panda”. The launch of these early models quickly generated buzz among Hajime Asaoka’s more modest collectors. Even seasoned enthusiasts began looking to Kurono Tokyo for its openness and its active connection with its audience. Every watch came with behind-the-scenes glimpses into its creation, along with carefully timed teasers that collectors could anticipate and track, turning each release into a shared, engaging experience.

By 2022, Kurono expanded its lineup with the Chronograph II and added seasonal dial options, including the crisp white “Shiro.” That same year, the Reserve de Marche debuted - a 38mm timepiece featuring a power‑reserve complication and a finely textured guilloché dial. What made it particularly notable was its use of modified new‑old‑stock Citizen movements, marking the brand’s first move toward more sophisticated, mechanically inclined designs.

In 2023, Kurono Tokyo took a meaningful step beyond its time‑only roots with the GMT 1 - the brand’s first watch to tackle a genuine world‑time function. Rather than leaning into the sports-watch aesthetic typical of most GMTs, Hajime Asaoka designed this model to feel elegant and intentional on the wrist, aiming it as much at the business traveler as the style‑conscious collector. Its 38mm polished stainless steel case featured a glazed bi‑directional rotating bezel with lacquer‑filled 24‑hour markers and concentric Art Deco lines that gave it utility and an atmospheric depth. The dial’s day/night ring, divided into subtly contrasting hues, allowed tracking up to three time zones, and the clever “True GMT” setup allowed the local hour hand to jump independently for seamless adjustments between zones. Inside, a Miyota 9075 automatic movement with a 42‑hour power reserve ensured reliable, everyday performance.

Now, let’s look at the past couple of years of Kurono Tokyo’s story. In 2024, the Anniversary Reiwa, part of Kurono Tokyo’s Grand Series, was released, marking the brand’s fifth anniversary with a striking lapis‑green and black cylindrical dial. Its intricate design and demanding craftsmanship, however, made production exceptionally challenging, sadly leading to its retirement shortly after the limited launch. What this did, however, was secure its status as a coveted collector’s piece from the get-go.

The 37mm stainless steel model with a signed caseback and Miyota 90S5 movement is a standout piece in Kurono Tokyo’s lineup, celebrating a bold blend of artistry and technical precision. Its dial draws inspiration from the deep, reflective waters of Ruri‑Numa – a picturesque pond that makes up five of the volcanic Goshikinuma lakes. It combines a metallic lapis‑green outer ring with a glossy black center that plays with light in captivating ways. This watch’s rarity comes from the difficulty of producing its striking dual-tone dial: only about 5% of dials pass the brand’s exacting quality standards, making it one of the most challenging and exclusive pieces Kurono has ever made.

In 2025, Kurono Tokyo reached new heights with standout releases, including the Jubilee Sensu EOL “白藍”. It’s one of the brand’s most ambitious releases, featuring a white‑indigo “Shiraai” dial inspired by traditional Japanese indigo, overlaid on a silver‑plated guilloché surface. A subtle Sensu fan motif marks the power reserve, while polished steel indices and black Kanji hour markers reinforce its distinctly Japanese character. At its core sits a modified Miyota Calibre 9133 end‑of-life movement, stripped of its date function to highlight dial purity. Even more attractive is its hand-polished black onyx cabochon crown, which adds a celebratory, refined touch to the design.

The 38mm stainless steel case with a box sapphire crystal protects the dial, which shifts beautifully in different lighting, revealing warm tones in soft light and cooler shades in daylight. Again, these nuances and details demonstrate Kurono’s focus on meticulous design, dial artistry, and visual storytelling.

[toc-section heading="Kurono Tokyo’s Design Philosophy"]

Asaoka is not a conventional industry figurehead. A self-taught horologist, he learned by dismantling vintage watches, teaching himself CAD design, and ultimately building Japan’s first domestically produced tourbillon from the ground up. That depth of hands-on study inevitably shaped his desire to rethink what a modern watch brand could be. His membership in the Académie Horlogère des Créateurs Indépendants (AHCI) and recognition as ‘Gendai no Meiko,’ Contemporary Master Craftsman, underline his stature among independent watchmakers. Kurono Tokyo was Asaoka’s answer to a genuine collector gap and a pledge to make watchmaking about intrinsic design merit once more. Asaoka’s industrial design background is obvious in every curve, texture, and typographic detail. Most dials are hand‑mixed and evaluated under varying light conditions until they meet his precise aesthetic standard, a rarity in a market where dial design is often a collaborative, less personal process.

Unlike many independent brands that pursue in‑house movements as badges of technical merit, Kurono made an early choice to emphasize dial artistry and overall design rather than movement exclusivity. Most Kurono Tokyo watches use reliable Japanese automatic calibers like the Miyota 90S5 or Seiko NE86A - robust, serviceable workhorses that keep costs reasonable. Collectors and enthusiasts get a beautifully designed, high-quality timepiece without paying a premium solely for in-house mechanics.

To purists who prioritize in-house movements as a hallmark of watchmaking legitimacy, this can be a sticking point. Critics often point out that Miyota or other third-party movements don’t offer the same prestige as bespoke calibers. Yet for many collectors, the value lies not in what’s inside the case but in how the watch feels on the wrist. That interplay of color, proportion, and thoughtful detailing that Asaoka brings to each piece is what elevates the brand beyond its price point and gives it a clear, authentic identity.

[toc-section heading="A Cult Following - and Its Frustrations"]

Kurono’s rise has been remarkable, but not without growing pains. The limited production and rapid sellouts within minutes have frustrated collectors who feel priced out or left chasing secondary market premiums. This is a classic indie dilemma: creating desirability through scarcity while avoiding excluding itself from genuine enthusiasts. Nevertheless, the brand has experimented with purchase models, including fixed short windows of direct sales that aim to prioritize genuine collectors over scalpers. That said, limited supply remains intrinsic to the brand’s identity as a small independent operation. Kurono intentionally keeps runs tight to preserve exclusivity.

There are also critics who feel the brand’s hype outpaces what’s inside the case. It’s a sentiment often voiced by purists who might see a $3,000 watch powered by a Miyota movement as poor value when judged solely on its mechanics. But even many of these critics acknowledge that the design excellence and narrative authenticity of a Kurono Tokyo watch set it apart from more conventional offerings.

[toc-section heading="Independent Peers and Competition"]

Viewed in the wider independent landscape, Kurono occupies a distinctive position, highlighting both its competitive strengths and structural constraints. In mechanical craftsmanship, names like Andersmann, Habring², or De Bethune represent depth in movement innovation and complications. These are all fields that Kurono has deliberately avoided in favor of aesthetic focus. But that’s precisely the point. Kurono Tokyo isn’t trying to compete with haute horlogerie in mechanical complexity, but rather with design and wearability at a democratic price point. In the Japanese indie sphere, brands like Naoya Hida & Co. or Masahito Kikuno pursue niche craftsmanship and minute complications, but often at much higher prices and lower accessibility. Kurono’s ability to occupy a space that is affordable, design‑driven, and collectible ultimately makes it compelling to budget-minded collectors.

[toc-section heading="The Future of Kurono Tokyo"]

Whatever way you look at Kurono Tokyo’s growth over the last half a decade, its trajectory demonstrates how an indie brand can go from a cult favorite to a globally recognized name without having to throw everything at in-house mechanical manufacture. This is one of the brand’s key strengths and what distinguishes it from so many others. Its limited but meaningful expansions, from simple time‑only pieces to complications and anniversary editions, show an appetite for evolution while keeping a clear and consistent design style.

Perhaps what’s most remarkable is how Kurono maintains design integrity, community engagement, and a clear narrative while operating within the limits of independent production. For many collectors, that story is at least as important as technical specs or brand heritage. Horology is a crowded landscape in which brands are continually chasing hype and speculation, but Kurono Tokyo stands as a reminder that authentic design, thoughtful craftsmanship, and accessibility can create a strong emotional and collector appeal. You can learn more at kuronotokyo.com