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Unimatic took a step in a new direction this summer with the release of a new collection simply called Toolwatch. The collection consists of four watches across two styles, and represents a push into function-driven design. Each of the watches meet the MIL-STD-810 standard used by the US Department of Defense, and boast an internal protection system designed by Unimatic. It’s clear the Italian brand is making a serious move into true tool-watch territory here, and the watches themselves have a number of unique elements on their side, but how do they stand up to real-world, practical use? We went hands-on to find out.
The UT1 GMT is one of four variations released within the Toolwatch collection, utilizing a fully indexed rotating bezel, and featuring a GMT disk and date complication. As with all Unimatic watches, the case is the most distinctive feature of the UT1, and it falls into very familiar territory. The design language that Unimatic has developed for its cases is geometric and confident, with fixed planes that meet at set angles, and no real curvature in sight. At 41.5mm in diameter, and 49mm from lug to lug, this case has a muscular presence, but never feels overbearing.
This is a case that invites a closer look at a variety of angles, and there’s always a dramatic view that awaits. It’s not graceful, but it works just fine on the wrist, all things considered. This is a watch that wears its personality on its sleeve, and at nearly 14mm thick, it won’t be sliding under yours anytime soon. And that’s just fine. With a literal name of Toolwatch, that just comes with the territory. The lug span is 22mm, providing a wide presence on the top of the wrist, which only becomes notable due to the protruding caseback propping the watch up to be quite tall. There’s no easy transition to the caseback from the midcase, so this creates a noticeable gap. But again, this is a Toolwatch, and all things considered, this is a wearable watch for its size.
The only place I’d use the word “soft" with this watch is in describing the uniform, satin finish of the case, which compliments the hard edges nicely. I particularly enjoy the shape of the crown guard, which feels like a nod to the “eagle beak” crown guards seen on vintage Rolex references.
Given this watch's size and function set, you’d expect a highly legible dial experience; however, this is one area in which the watch leaves something to be desired. The main vista of the dial is focused into a slightly smaller area than you might expect, and the dial itself sits deeply within that viewing area. There’s nothing inherently wrong with that, but the Arabic numerals printed on the matte black dial feel just small enough to negatively impact the overall legibility. This isn’t a detail I’d be critical of if it weren’t for the over-engineered tool-watch aspirations of this watch. High-contrast dials with great legibility are key features of a great tool watch, and this is one area that could be strengthened in future iterations.
That said, I really love the design of the dial. It feels modern, but also referential to some iconic field watches and pilot watches. It’s easy to understand at a glance, and it’s something I hope to see Unimatic continue to evolve and refine. The way that the date and GMT aperture have been incorporated into the design are natural and unobtrusive, almost to the point of being pushed too far into the background. They aren’t details that you notice unless you seek them out, meaning they don’t interfere with the general legibility of the dial. In light of my comments above, that’s a very good thing.
The GMT disk sits within a curved aperture at the top of the dial, with an orange triangle tracking its passage. The disk itself is not independently adjustable, serving as a 24-hour display of where the hands are. In this sense, it’s more of an AM/PM indication than anything, which makes it a bit less annoying when the hands are obscuring it from view. A GMT hand would certainly have been a more practical implementation, but given the limited flexibility, I think the way Unimatic handled this display works just fine. It could be seen as a digital hour readout to be used in conjunction with the minute hand at a glance, and in that sense, it’s pretty cool.
Unimatic is using a Ronda 515.24D quartz movement inside the UT1 GMT, which is a fitting choice given the goals of this watch. That movement sits within the 360-degree TPU protection system that can stand up to a serious beating. In testing for this watch, Unimatic had cased movements dropped from a height of 4 feet onto hard concrete 26 times in a row, and the watch remained in working condition. The watch also achieves a depth rating of 300 meters. It’s clear that the UT1 GMT was made to take some abuse, and the use of a quartz movement further underlines that.
The UT1 GMT isn’t perfect, but it has something that I look for in a watch such as this, and that is character. There are some odd choices made here, each of which add something unique to the net result of the design. In fact, I think that Unimatic could bring in a bit more of its funky design choices, in the approach to the dial design in particular. Perhaps larger hours at the cardinal positions and the 24-hour disk completely replacing the 12 o’clock hour marker would lean further into the concept and make for an even more unique experience for the wearer of this watch.
As it sits, there’s a lot to enjoy here, especially considering its sub-$600 price point. The time-only models can be had for under $500, and for that, there’s a lot of watch here to enjoy. Most of all, these watches have me excited about the prospect of a proper tool watch collection from Unimatic that goes deeper than just the name. I’ve always found their design language quite compelling, and seeing it brought into a function-first ethos is a tantalizing prospect. The Toolwatch collection takes an exciting first step without losing sight of what makes the brand special in the first place.
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Weird, this review has the same strange error as your other blog about this watch. The GMT is a GMT function. In two places on the site you claim that it is just a 24 hour display, but the GMT is independently adjustable. Source: I have one on my wrist right now.
I have the GMT version and agree the face is a little sunken down, making it appear particularly small for the size of the case, though it remains legible. I think the obvious fix is to move the second markers to the edges of the case and utilize the depth of the face placement to position them at an angle as some other dive watches do. In a way this reminds me of the Marathon dive watch, a significant amount of wrist real-estate for relatively little watch face area. I like the weight, looks and construction. I chose the watch for the quart movement (having owned a couple of automatic GMT’s and tired of the complex setting process each time it stopped), the fact the GMT is in a window, and not an extra hand that can sometimes be confusing at a glance, and for the Unimatic design ethos.