The Tudor Black Bay 58 Goes Full Burgundy (With METAS Movement And New Bracelet)

We spend hours trying to predict what Tudor will do, and very rarely are we right. Chalk this latest release up to something we absolutely did not see coming: A redesigned Tudor Black Bay 58, essentially from top to bottom. What you’re looking at is the next generation of everybody’s favorite Black Bay size, and it debuts in a color you simply cannot ignore, and one tied to Tudor history.

The new Burgundy Black Bay 58 takes the burgundy color usage of Black Bays from the past, and turns things up to 11. This isn’t just a bezel color, but rather the whole enchilada. A picture is worth 1,000 words (a word count I am nowhere near just yet), so you can see for yourself what this one looks like – but heck, I’ll run through it anyway.

Where the past few years have seen Tudor experiment with satin-finished dials in the hardcore sports watches from the Pelagos to the Black Bay 54, the 58 range has been steadfast in its use of matte or textured dial surfaces. That all changes with this new model as we get a punchy, sunburst burgundy dial color. You might think this is an infusion of modernity in a model known to harken back to the past, but it isn’t. It’s just harkening to a different moment in time – to a watch that Tudor never technically released.

That would be a certain 1990s Tudor Submariner prototype that had a similar red bezel/red dial combination. And while that watch never made it to the production stage, it heavily influenced the brand’s decision when it released the very first Black Bay with a burgundy bezel. I was able to see that prototype in person, which makes this release all the more interesting.

But enough of the past; let’s look at the changes Tudor has made to this young icon. The first thing you’ll notice is the inclusion of the five-link bracelet, a fixture now of larger BB models. And yes, that also means the watch is finally equipped with Tudor’s micro-adjustment T-Fit system which allows for ample adjustment in a sliding motion similar to the Glidelock on Rolex divers. 

It has a redesigned crown with a knurling similar to the Tudor Subs of old, that is also rendered smaller than the original BB58 crown was. It is a change similarly deployed on the updated Black Bay 41 diver and I really like how it breathes an air of maturity into the watch.

The case still measures 39mm in diameter but is now .2mm thinner – measuring 11.7mm in case height compared to the 11.9mm it was before. And there is a reason for this: Less lines of text on the dial. Okay, I am kidding.

The real reason is the shift from the MT-5402 movement – a chronometer-certified caliber – to the new MT5400-U caliber – a Master Chronometer. Yep, we now have a METAS-certified Black Bay 58. The MT-5400 has been used in the Black Bay 54, but the "U" distinction makes it the METAS variation. I am not entirely sure if the movement accounts for the reduction in thickness or some sort of case redesign. I will wait to see the watch in person, and report back. The movement has a variable internal balance, runs with 27 jewels and provides 65 hours of power reserve with a 4Hz beat rate.

In addition to the five-link bracelet, the watch also comes on the traditional riveted three-link style as well as a rubber option. The bezel is made of anodized aluminum in that burgundy colorway, and the redesigned crown remains stamped with the classic Tudor rose. The dial gets simplified by way of less text and the lack of faux-lume paired with the red hues make for a very interesting watch overall.

The reality is that this is a new day for the Black Bay 58 which receives changes many of its larger siblings have also gotten. In short, this is a watch that still looks to the past, but a more recent past. I for one, love this new direction and look forward to spending some quality hands-on time with the new BB58. Price for the Tudor Black Bay 58 is CHF 3,950 on strap, CHF 4,150 on riveted three-link bracelet, and CHF 4,250 on three-link bracelet. You can see more at tudorwatch.com