Studio Underd0g Debuts First Calendar Complication With New 04SERIES

Though it might only have six years under its belt so far, Studio Underd0g has managed to solidify itself as a standout in the independent watch sector with its punchy, unmistakable design and just the right amount of irreverence. Its punchy color combinations across its bicompax chronographs in the 01SERIES and 03SERIES have already become immediately recognizable (specifically the Watermel0n colorway), along with the time-only 02SERIES, but today, the brand is pushing into a new, even more complicated direction. Taking on a calendar complication for the first time, the 04SERIES channels its unique flair into that functionality, resulting in a fleet of new watches that are as sophisticated as they are playful. 

Case And Wear

Studio Underd0g 04SERIES 'Cloud10' (38.5mm)

For its latest collection, Studio Underd0g stays true to its roots with a rounded case and elongated, curved lugs, which grounds the overall design in classic watchmaking, all of which is assembled fully in-house at the Great Britain D0ghouse. But things get interesting when it comes to the two sizes that the 04SERIES launches in: 37mm and 38.5mm. It’s quite the unexpected move, debuting size options just 1.5mm apart from each other. But, then again, the brand has never been afraid to defy convention, and this only proves it isn’t one to compromise its vision. 

Across both sizes, the case profile is impressively trim, measuring just 10.5mm thick, if you don’t count the crystal. With the slightly domed top crystal and exhibition caseback, you’ll need to add an extra 3mm. Regardless, there’s a lot of functionality packed into that height (which we will get into in depth in further sections). In addition to the logo-stamped crown at 3 o’clock, there is a hidden pusher at 2 o’clock that quick-sets the pointer date, and another hidden moonphase corrector at 8 o’clock. 

Studio Underd0g 04SERIES 'Arabian Sky' (37mm)

Each watch is paired with a leather strap that coordinates with the color palette of its dial, made by the Strap Tailor – the British artisan brand that Studio Underd0g typically collaborates with on its strap selection. Additionally, there is a Milanese mesh bracelet option for this collection that you can add on. 

Dial Details

Studio Underd0g 04SERIES 'Overcast' (37mm)

It goes without saying that the dials are really where Studio Underd0g’s unique magic shines most brightly. For the 04SERIES, which is among the brand’s most complicated undertakings yet, this comes through not only in its signature knack for color, but also in the streamlined cohesion of all its functions. Before we get into the specifics of the colorways, let’s talk about the layout for a minute. For its first calendar, Studio Underd0g hasn’t gone the simple date window route. Instead, the days of the month are told in an arc of chamfered individual windows around the dial perimeter, coordinating with an arrow-tipped pointer hand. But the brand added its own flair to the pointer date format, adding colorful pops where weekends fall each month. It’s a little boost of morale if you’re just working for the weekend.

Studio Underd0g 04SERIES 'Cloud10' (38.5mm)

Studio Underd0g 04SERIES 'Shepherd's Delight' (38.5mm)

There are multiple finishing styles within the dial’s segments, including a new-for-the-Underd0g satin-polish at the center. Large and in charge at 6 o’clock, the moonphase reveals a vibrant, bi-colored sky and moon in its aperture, and features a snailed textural finish, furthering the subtle play with textures. 

Studio Underd0g 04SERIES 'Arabian Sky' (37mm)

Studio Underd0g 04SERIES 'Overcast' (37mm)

The color options are the same across both sizes, and, of course, the brand has carried on its naming cheekiness. There are four distinct colorways to choose from: Cloud10 is light blue with pops of a soft, sunset-like red and peach; Arabian Sky mixes a peachy golden dial backdrop with shades of teal; Overcast pairs deep, dark grey with pops of bright orange and yellow; and Shepherd's Delight is the punchiest of them all, mixing vibrant red with dark purple and lilac, pulling from the old rhyme “red sky at night, shepherd’s delight.” Even with all the multi-colored fun, the way the color is executed manages to not feel cartoonish or overwhelming in the slightest. 

The Movement

For its first calendar watch, Studio Underd0g has once again partnered with movement manufacturer Seagull after first uniting forces for the manual-wind 01SERIES chronographs. To create the right movement for the 04SERIES, a whopping 34 bespoke components were needed. The resulting Seagull Automatic ST-2115B for Studio Underd0g caliber has pulled out all the stops when it comes to the user experience of all its functions.

In addition to the aforementioned quick-set button at 2 o’clock that’s cleverly hidden, the retrograde function jumps the pointer date back to one at the end of the month, so the moonphase always stays visible in all its glory. One thing to keep in mind is that at the beginning of each month, you will need to align the weekends to their corresponding dates via the crown, as the calendar is not automatically programmed. Visible through the exhibition caseback, the caliber inside operates at 28,800 VpH and has a 42-hour power reserve. 

Final Thoughts And Pricing

Studio Underd0g has been working at a breakneck speed in the short time frame since its founding, and shows no signs of easing up on the gas anytime soon. The 04SERIES is its most ambitious undertaking yet, and might be its most sophisticated, not only with its novel complications, but also with its ability to execute them all in a streamlined, but still exciting manner. The Studio Underd0g 04SERIES is available now and is priced at $1,100. 

For more information, visit the brand’s website here.