Rolex Oyster Perpetual Jubilee-Dial Edition: Hands On With The Multicolored Cult-Classic

The loud, status-symbol branding of the '80s makes a triumphant return in the Oyster's centennial year. 

Mark Bernardo
Rolex Oyster Perpetual Jubilee-Dial Edition: Hands On With The Multicolored Cult-Classic

Rolex has been predictably busy in 2026, the landmark 100th anniversary of its brand-defining Oyster case, with the recent and somewhat unexpected launch of the Perpetual Padellone being just the most recent example. Earlier in the year, however, came the release of perhaps Rolex’s quirkiest and most colorful watch in years, ironically from its humblest and most “everyday” collection. Here is what you should know about the Rolex Oyster Perpetual with the latest iteration of the fan-favorite Jubilee dial.

Defining the Rolex Oyster Perpetual

rolex oyster perpetual jubilee

If we’re being meticulous about it, the vast majority of watches in Rolex’s lineup are Oyster Perpetuals: the Daytona, Submariner, GMT-Master, Day-Date — just about every marquee model outside of the 1908 dress watches. That’s because the phrase “Oyster Perpetual” refers to two features that are very common throughout the Crown’s portfolio; the waterproof Oyster case, introduced by Rolex founder Hans Wilsdorf in 1926 (which means, of course, that it’s celebrating its centennial this year), and the self-winding “Perpetual” movement, which came along in 1931. When we refer to “Oyster Perpetual” as a product family, however, we’re talking about a very specific watch model, the purest, simplest, and most entry-level in terms of pricing that Rolex offers. It is also the most versatile, offered in a range of sizes, from the female-targeted 28mm and 31mm models to the more unisex 36mm and 41mm. Oyster Perpetual watches have no tool-oriented bezels, no fluting, no subdials, no Cyclops lenses, not even date windows. They are time-only watches whose other common denominators include their three-link Oyster bracelets, 100-meter water-resistant Oyster cases, and self-winding, chronometer-certified mechanical movements.

Origin and Evolution of the Jubilee Dial

rolex oyster perpetual jubilee

The term “jubilee” refers to a special anniversary, and usually also a celebration thereof. It has become associated with Rolex ever since 1945, the year that the brand launched the immortal Datejust and, alongside it, the now-famous and oft-imitated Jubilee bracelet (which is described in more detail here). Forty years later, in 1985, another anniversary year ushered in the first “official” Jubilee dial (after some one-off experiments in the 1970s), appropriately debuting on a Datejust model. The dial’s engraved, repeating “ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX” pattern, similar to the all-over monogram motif made popular by other luxury brands, like Louis Vuitton on its coveted bags, was a product of the 1980s, an era of unashamed decadence and flaunting of wealth and status.

Despite the distinctive texture, which sets it apart from standard dials in the Rolex collection, the Jubilee dial has proven to be adaptable to many different formats and treatments. It has appeared in a range of colorways, from classic black and white to bright blues, pinks, and champagne tones. It has hosted Arabic and Roman numerals as well as diamond and baton indexes, along with different arrangements of dial text, from a simple model name to the full gamut of traditional Rolex verbiage, including “Superlative Chronometer Officially Certified.” And despite its origins, it has not been strictly confined to the core Datejust models, appearing on Lady Datejusts, Day-Date “Presidents,” and even on some of the fondly remembered Cellini editions. 

rolex oyster perpetual jubilee

As alluded to above, 2026 is another major anniversary year for Rolex, marking 100 years since the first Rolex Oyster watch (and also a full century since Wilsdorf registered the “Tudor” name, which established the foundations for that brand). And this milestone was apparently just enough inspiration for the Crown to bring back the Jubilee dial, which had been essentially retired in 2021, and to do so on an Oyster Perpetual watch — the most direct descendant of the earliest Rolex timepieces marketed with the now-ubiquitous waterproof case. 

Examining the 2026 Edition

rolex oyster perpetual jubilee

The watch's case, offered in 36mm or 41mm sizes, is made of Oystersteel (Rolex's name for 904L stainless steel, a particularly anti-corrosive alloy used in the aerospace industry), resists water pressure to 100 meters or 330 feet, and comes mounted on the aforementioned Oyster bracelet. The case is equipped with Rolex’s patented, double-sealed Twinlock winding crown, which ensures its waterproofness and screws securely into the case. (More robust, tool-oriented Oyster Perpetual models like the Submariner and Sea-Dweller feature the more advanced Triplock system for a higher waterproofness rating.) The solid caseback also screws securely into the case, and the crystal over the dial is made from scratch-resistant sapphire. The 36mm case is around 11.5mm thick and just over 43mm lug to lug; the 41mm case is just a smidgen thicker, around 11.7mm, with a lug-to-lug span of 46.4mm.

rolex oyster perpetual jubilee

The key visual element of this recently released version of the Oyster Perpetual, obviously, is the vibrant, multicolored lacquer dial, decorated with the iconic,repetitive “ROLEX ROLEX ROLEX” Jubilee motif. This execution of the design, with the brand name spelled out in no fewer than 10 contrasting colors rather than the mostly monochromatic shades of its predecessors, has its origins in an experimental dial dating back to the 1970s, before the first Datejust Jubilee edition in the ‘80s. Creating such a dial, Rolex says, presented a significant challenge, because the colors are applied not all at once, but one after the other. The utmost precision is also required to ensure that all the shapes and letters making up the motif are positioned perfectly.

rolex oyster perpetual jubilee

While the Jubilee dial is a dazzling feast for the eyes, you’ll still need to read the time on the watch, even when it’s too dark for the dial’s bright colors to really sing. Rolex obliges with a set of applied, 18k white-gold baton indexes at the hour markers, doubled up at 3, 6, and 9 o’clock; another gold appliqué in the form of the brand’s famed coronet emblem at 12 o’clock; and a central baton handset in the same precious metal. All the hands and indexes are coated with Chromalight, Rolex’s proprietary luminous substance that glows bright blue in darkness. 

Behind that eye-catching, colorful dial is Rolex’s in-house, perpetual Caliber 3230, the tried-and-true micromechanical engine that also animates other three-handed Rolex models like the no-date Submariner, the most recent Air-King, and this model’s big brother, the Oyster Perpetual 41. Boasting a 70-hour power reserve, the movement incorporates Rolex’s patented Chronergy escapement, which increases efficiency more than 15 percent over standard Swiss lever escapements; and Paraflex shock absorbers, which protect the balance wheel from impacts while also absorbing and dispersing their kinetic energy.

rolex oyster perpetual jubilee

The movement carries Rolex’s own Superlative Chronometer certification, which guarantees excellent performance and reliability. Rolex has strengthened its Superlative Chronometer certification with the addition of three new testing criteria: resistance to magnetism, reliability and sustainability, which supplement the existing standards established in 2015 focusing on water resistance, precision and power reserve. 

As per the name of the collection it joins, this watch’s dial is Jubilee but its bracelet is Oyster, made of the same 904L stainless steel as the case, and a folding “Oysterclasp,” equipped with yet another Rolex-patented device, the Easylink comfort extension that allows for an additional 5mm of adjustment on the wrist. Rolex has set the MSRP for the Oyster Perpetual 36mm Jubilee dial edition at $6,750 (and at $7,050 the larger 41mm version), though the popularity and relative rarity of the model have pushed secondary market prices substantially higher, from around $17,000 to over $20,000. Whether or not this model's enthusiastic reception will spark a return of the Jubilee dial to other models remains to be seen; if 2026 is any indication, the Crown is likely to have more surprises up its sleeve in the near future. You can learn more at rolex.com

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