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Germany’s Nomos made an impressive splash in its very first year as an exhibiting brand at Watches & Wonders Geneva, introducing no less than 31 different all-new colorways in its Tangente 38 Date series in 2024. One year later, Nomos has dialed back the “quantity” aspect of its launches while doubling down on the “quality,” at least from a horological standpoint. The brand’s single headliner this year is the new Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer, the first use of the globe-trotter-friendly complication in its everyday-wear, robust-yet-elegant Club Sport collection.
The launch of the new Caliber DUW 3202 is significant in several respects. It is only the third in Nomos’s series of in-house neomatik (read: self-winding) movements and its world-time function is fully integrated into the main caliber rather than added onto it with a module. Because of this construction, the movement is uncommonly slender in profile, at just 4.8mm thick — as Nomos likes to point out in its release, thinner than the passport that a world traveler wearing this watch would tote on his or her journeys.
The modest height of the movement allows for the three-part steel case, at 40mm in diameter, to be similarly slim — only 9.9mm, making it one of the world’s thinnest watches with a world-time complication. The water resistance of 100 meters places it firmly within the Club Sport collection, which spun off from the parent Club family in 2019, albeit on the shallower end of the range, as other models boast an even more robust 200-meter rating. On the right side of the case, above the fluted crown at 2 o'clock, is a push-button that controls the rotating city ring around the dial. Bearing a combination of airport codes and city abbreviations, this ring enables easy viewing of the current time in any of the world’s 24 major time zones.
In addition to the outer city ring in blue, each dial has a small seconds subdial at 6 o’clock and an additional 24-hour subdial at 3 o’clock, bordered by a bicolor day-night ring, that displays the time in the wearer’s home time zone after the main hands are adjusted to the time in a different venue. Of the first two versions of the Club Sport neomatik Worldtimer to join the standard collection, one is distinguished by a deep blue dial with a sunburst finish its day-night ring subdivided into light and dark blue sectors; the other, by a rhodium-plated silver-colored dial, also sporting a sunburst finish, with an eye-catching day-night indication in high-contrast red and blue.
The Caliber DUW 3202 inside the case (the initials stand for Deutsche Uhrenwerke or “German Clockwork”), seen through a sapphire window in the watch’s screw-down caseback, is a proprietary movement with a 42-hour power reserve, equipped with the Nomos Swing System, an in-house-developed escapement noteworthy for its tempered blue balance spring and a balance bridge fixed with screws on both ends. It also features plentiful decorative finishes, including traditional Glashutte striping on the plates and the rotor; this new world-time movement also stands out with its golden globe motif in the rotor’s openworked center.
The Nomos Club Sport Worldtimer comes on the familiar three-link Club Sport bracelet and retails for $4,720. In addition to the two models described above, Nomos will also release six limited editions in a variety of other distinctive colorways inspired by adventure and travel — ochre-and-terracotta “Canyon,” golden-beige “Dune,” blue-gray “Glacier,” olive-green “Jungle,” red-toned “Magma,” and anthracite-black “Volcano.” It’s not the 31-color rainbow of last year’s releases but it’s a start.
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