Christopher Ward Raises the Curtain on the C1 Bel Canto "Act II"

Making a good sequel after a surprise hit is no easy feat, but that’s exactly what Christopher Ward is attempting to do with the Bel Canto. Released in 2022 to rave reviews, the Bel Canto is responsible for shifting the discussion about what is possible within the small, independent brand space. It was a chiming watch that looked like something from the higher end of the horological food chain, but was priced under $4,000. The watch quickly gained favor with collectors of all stripes, and a myriad of variations were produced around the original design. But how would Christopher Ward follow up on the original, and push the concept further in a version 2.0 (or Act II, as they are calling it) of the watch? Today we get our answer, with an evolutionary approach to progress. 

The Bel Canto Act II is being called “The Classic” for its use of traditional finishes and the inclusion of Roman numerals around the subdial to track the hours and minutes. At a glance, the new Bel Canto is quite similar to the original, sporting the same overall design, size, and case shape, with all the vital bits remaining in familiar positions. Act II represents an evolution of the fine details rather than a revolution of the concept altogether. After all, why meddle with something that works? This is a safe approach to the future of the Bel Canto, though billing it as “Act II” may have set an unreasonable expectation for those hoping to be just as shocked as they were when the original was released. 

Looking closer, we do find some contrast between Act II and the original, beginning with the most obvious, which is the base dial underpinning the visible mechanics. Christopher Ward calls this the platine, and here it’s been given a guilloché finish with a femto laser that “creates an even more intricate surface than with the traditional by-hand method.”  While I’d argue that using a laser to achieve a finer level of detail than hand finishing is missing the forest for the trees, it feels like a natural solution to get the desired effect at this price point. This part of the dial is being offered in azuro (blue), verde (green), oro (tan), and argento (silver).

Continuing with the ‘classic’ theme, Christopher Ward has also designed a new subdial ring at 12 o’clock against which the time is read. This dual-plane dial section now features Roman numerals, which, together with the guilloché platine, give off a rather grandiose vibe. Of course, considering that the watch is quite literally called “Classic,” this may be precisely the point. A newly designed handset tracks the time within the subdial, which is augmented by the audible chime at the top of each hour, courtesy of the hammer driven by the Sellita SW200-1-based Caliber FS01, operating at the other end of the dial, which remains unchanged. Yes, it can still be turned off with the press of a button. 

The case is also largely unchanged, though a new box-type sapphire crystal has been fitted to provide a better view and slim down the proportions just a tad. The grade 5 titanium light-catcher case measures 41mm in diameter and still accepts a 22mm strap, so it will wear rather wide and confidently on the wrist. The proportions of everything here run a bit counter to the classical elements established on the dial, but it’s all a part of the package with this movement and its unique feature set. The use of titanium for the case keeps everything well within wearable territory, however. 

Overall, this is the same C1 Bel Canto we know and love, albeit presented here with the trappings of a slightly different genre of timepiece. It remains an eminently impressive watch that starts at $4,225 on a leather strap and goes up to $4,540 on a bracelet. Framing this watch as “Act II” will likely leave some of the brand’s enthusiasts underwhelmed, as the changes, while beautiful, are ultimately superficial, but it does have me wondering what a true follow-up to the Bel Canto might entail. Until then, if you liked the original but prefer more classically styled and finished watches, the Bel Canto Classic is a welcome addition to the collection.